The Perfect Wave

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Perfect Wave

Author : Dave Hickey
Publisher : University of Chicago Press
ISBN 13 : 0226333140
Total Pages : 214 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (263 download)

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Book Synopsis Perfect Wave by : Dave Hickey

Download or read book Perfect Wave written by Dave Hickey and published by University of Chicago Press. This book was released on 2017 with total page 214 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When Dave Hickey was twelve, he rode the surfer's dream: the perfect wave. And, like so many things in life we long for, it didn't quite turn out - he shot the pier and dashed himself against the rocks of Sunset Cliffs in Ocean Beach, which just about killed him. Fortunately, for Hickey and for us, he survived, and he continues to battle, decades into a career as one of America's foremost critical iconoclasts. He's a trusted, even cherished no-nonsense voice commenting on the all-too-often nonsensical worlds of art and culture. This book brings together essays on a wide range of subjects from throughout Hickey's career, displaying his usual breadth of interest and powerful insight into what makes art work, or not, and why we care. With Hickey as our guide, we travel to Disneyland and Vegas, London and Venice. We discover the genius of Karen Carpenter and Waylon Jennings, learn why Robert Mitchum matters more than Jimmy Stewart, and see how the stillness of Antonioni speaks to us today. Never slow to judge - or to surprise us in doing so - Hickey powerfully relates his wincing disappointment in the later career of his early hero Susan Sontag, and shows us the appeal to our commonality that we've been missing in Norman Rockwell. With each essay, the doing is as important as what's done; the pleasure of reading Dave Hickey lies nearly as much in spending time in his company as in being surprised to find yourself agreeing with his conclusions. -- Description from amazon.com.

Search for the Perfect Wave

Author : Kevin Naughton
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780996509916
Total Pages : pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (99 download)

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Book Synopsis Search for the Perfect Wave by : Kevin Naughton

Download or read book Search for the Perfect Wave written by Kevin Naughton and published by . This book was released on 2015-11-11 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1973, young Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson took to the road with surfboards, camera gear and an untameable desire for adventure. For ten years they scoured the planet in search of perfect waves and the experiences only a traveler on the road encounters. "Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson are two surfers who defined surf travel in the early 1970's. They set off with a board each and rough maps, heading for the most remote possible places in West Africa and beyond, all for the quest of undiscovered surf spots. They felt the flow of travel, and they breathed in the air of the countries they visited, writing the odd mystical surf story for SURFER magazine, sending down the occasional alluring image of a wave breaking off a shipwreck, in front of a mile high sand dune, or at the bottom of a sheer cliff." Craig Jarvis, Tracks magazineThis series of books chronicles their journey. Featuring original photos and text from California, Mexico, El Salvador, Costa Rica, West Africa, Sahara Desert, Morocco, Ireland, France, Fiji, South Africa and beyond.

The Perfect Wave

Author : Heinrich Päs
Publisher : Harvard University Press
ISBN 13 : 0674726197
Total Pages : 312 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (747 download)

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Book Synopsis The Perfect Wave by : Heinrich Päs

Download or read book The Perfect Wave written by Heinrich Päs and published by Harvard University Press. This book was released on 2014-02-25 with total page 312 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Almost weightless and able to pass through the densest materials with ease, neutrinos may offer answers to questions ranging from relativity and quantum mechanics to more radical theories about dark energy and supersymmetry. Heinrich Päs serves as our fluent guide to a particle world that tests the boundaries of space, time, and human knowledge.

All for a Few Perfect Waves

Author : David Rensin
Publisher : Harper Collins
ISBN 13 : 0061868167
Total Pages : 826 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (618 download)

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Book Synopsis All for a Few Perfect Waves by : David Rensin

Download or read book All for a Few Perfect Waves written by David Rensin and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 2009-03-17 with total page 826 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

Riding the Magic Carpet

Author : Tom Anderson
Publisher : Summersdale Publishers LTD
ISBN 13 : 0857654217
Total Pages : 283 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (576 download)

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Book Synopsis Riding the Magic Carpet by : Tom Anderson

Download or read book Riding the Magic Carpet written by Tom Anderson and published by Summersdale Publishers LTD. This book was released on 2006-06-01 with total page 283 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "The right-hand point at Jeffreys Bay is one of the surfing world's most exciting finds, and from the age of twelve it had been my life's purpose to surf there." J-Bay, South Africa, has the fantasy, the almost mythical waves every surfer dreams of riding once in their lifetime. But Tom wouldn't go until he was ready. He would seek out surf-spots from the virgin reef-breaks of the Outer Orkneys to the temple point-breaks of Indonesia, from the beautiful beaches of France to the wilds of Sri Lanka, on his quest to ride the waves of his dreams. Get on the road, get stoked, and get in the water.

Surf Mama

Author : Wilma Johnson
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781849535915
Total Pages : 317 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (359 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Mama by : Wilma Johnson

Download or read book Surf Mama written by Wilma Johnson and published by . This book was released on 2014-06-02 with total page 317 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wilma Johnson was living on the west coast of Ireland with her husband and three children, balancing the challenges of being an artist, wife and mother, until, in her forties and with a deep desire to seize the day, she moved to Biarritz and became a surfer.The waters of her new life are sometimes troubled and relationships aren't always steady; she splits with her husband, her children don't speak French and she lives with a growing menagerie. Her first attempts at surfing are disastrous: bruises, broken bones and a damaged ego the result, but when she sets up the Mamas Surf Club and experiences the euphoric feeling of catching her first wave, it's all worth it.

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Surf

Author : Casey Koteen
Publisher : Weldon Owen International
ISBN 13 : 1681886995
Total Pages : 242 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (818 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf by : Casey Koteen

Download or read book Surf written by Casey Koteen and published by Weldon Owen International. This book was released on 2013-10-29 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The editors of TransWorld SURF share inside information and jaw-dropping photography in this comprehensive guide to the one-hundred best surf spots on Earth. The editors of TransWorld SURF magazine have been all over—from Australia and California to emerging destinations in West Africa, Japan, Norway and beyond—searching for the best beaches and waves with some of the world’s top surfers. This book collects amazing photos of the one-hundred top spots around the world, along with the pro tips and travel details you need to go there yourself. SURF: 100 Greatest Waves takes you from classic locales, such as Mexico, Fiji, and Thailand, to inside secret spots like Iceland, India, and Wales. Whether you’re a globetrotting barrelhunter chasing the perfect wave, or a weekend wave-rider dreaming of the perfect vacation, let SURF: 100 Greatest Waves take you there.

Kook

Author : Peter Heller
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1439171815
Total Pages : 336 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (391 download)

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Book Synopsis Kook by : Peter Heller

Download or read book Kook written by Peter Heller and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2010-07-13 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Waiting for the Perfect Wave: Hardcover Surf Shack Coffee Table Book (Blue Cover)

Author : Amanda Miggs
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 76 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (663 download)

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Book Synopsis Waiting for the Perfect Wave: Hardcover Surf Shack Coffee Table Book (Blue Cover) by : Amanda Miggs

Download or read book Waiting for the Perfect Wave: Hardcover Surf Shack Coffee Table Book (Blue Cover) written by Amanda Miggs and published by . This book was released on 2021-08-28 with total page 76 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This amazing coffee table book features high quality surf photography & surfing quotes to add a pop of color and personality to your home decor. Showcasing beautiful surfing photography from all over the world, Waiting For The Perfect Wave is a breathtaking visual tour of oceans great diversity. Book Features you will love: 8.25x11 Inches, LARGE 76 High Quality Pages in Vibrant Colors Hardbound Matte Cover with fascinating Cover Design

Clark Little

Author : Clark Little
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984859781
Total Pages : 241 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis Clark Little by : Clark Little

Download or read book Clark Little written by Clark Little and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2022-04-05 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.

A Glimpse of Eternity

Author : Ian McCormack
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780473138219
Total Pages : 64 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (382 download)

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Book Synopsis A Glimpse of Eternity by : Ian McCormack

Download or read book A Glimpse of Eternity written by Ian McCormack and published by . This book was released on 2008 with total page 64 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A short account is about a New Zealand boy traveling the world and getting stung by box jellyfish in Mauritius. It tells of the ordeal he goes through to get treatment and how in hospital he briefly dies before being eventually resuscitated. During this small time of "death" he believes he discovered an afterlife.

AFROSURF

Author : Mami Wata
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984860410
Total Pages : 320 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis AFROSURF by : Mami Wata

Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.

Finding the Perfect Wave

Author : Cheri H. Miklich
Publisher : Tate Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1616638737
Total Pages : 336 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (166 download)

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Book Synopsis Finding the Perfect Wave by : Cheri H. Miklich

Download or read book Finding the Perfect Wave written by Cheri H. Miklich and published by Tate Publishing. This book was released on 2010-12 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 'Alli...there's been an accident.' Her voice grew silent. 'What?' I began to hear sobbing coming from the other end of the line. A sick feeling overtook my whole body. The fear of what I was about to hear became a stronger reality with each of Sara's sobs. 'There was a really bad car accident, and Alli...' She paused and began to cry louder. 'H-He's...gone. He's dead.'Seventeen-year-old Alli Whitton's life just can't get any better. She's one of the best surfers in Huntington Beach, spending every day side by side with her boyfriend, Todd, and just days away from entering the halls of her senior year in high school. Then her dad is transferred miles away from her beloved ocean to the middle of the sweltering Arizona desert, and Alli's perfect life is threatened. It takes an uphill turn, however, when she meets Jake, the school's handsome soccer star, whose sandy blond hair and sharp green eyes remind her how to smile once again. All she needs to do is make it ten long months; then she's free to return to California. But when an unthinkable tragedy occurs, Alli is forced into mourning the loss of a dear loved one, leaving her suffering through the grieving process in a new school with none of her best friends to comfort her. Cheri Miklich'sFinding the Perfect Waveis a romantic coming-of-age drama where readers will learn, along with Alli, to smile and laugh even amidst life's darkest hours. A new romance blooms, hope and faith fight to prevail, and a strong realization of passion for her dreams surfaces as she discovers who she is meant to be. Join Alli as she enters the waters of life and seeks to find the perfect wave!

West

Author : Anouk Masson Krantz
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781864708394
Total Pages : 264 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (83 download)

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Book Synopsis West by : Anouk Masson Krantz

Download or read book West written by Anouk Masson Krantz and published by . This book was released on 2019-10-31 with total page 264 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The rolling prairies and ranch communities of the great heartland of America's West may be a long way from New York City, but renowned photographer Anouk Masson Krantz has clocked up many thousands of miles over several years exploring and capturing in rich photographic detail the compelling worlds of the American cowboy/cowgirl, championship rodeo arenas, ranch life and farming communities of this slice of the United States. Set out in a beautiful large-format book, the pages within are filled with Krantz's magnificent duotone images of the spirit of an extraordinary group of people and their lives, and in their own words, their great love of family, tradition and work ethic, and their great pride and affinity with their animals and the rich American rodeo championship sporting culture. Earning wide acclaim for her incredible fine art work exhibited in galleries and published in the bestselling Wild Horses of Cumberland Island ISBN 9781864707427 (2017), also by IMAGES, West: The American Cowboy is another artful, intimate study of the American character and their sense of place, and is a unique collection of works brought together by this award-winning photographer and storyteller. AUTHOR: Born and raised in France, Anouk Masson Krantz moved to the United States in the late 1990s. Living in New York, she completed her high school at the Lycée Francais and earned her bachelor degree while working for a lifestyle magazine. Following college she worked at Cartier's corporate office in New York that oversees the Americas. Anouk later studied at the International Center of Photography and has developed several notable bodies of work, including Wild Horses of Cumberland Island. Her work has appeared in prominent galleries and earned accolades from the International Photography Awards and International Monochrome Awards. Her first book Wild Horses of Cumberland Island (2017) became an immediate bestseller among the photography genre. The book and her art have been praised by international publications, such as Vanity Fair, Town & Country, Time, Harper s Bazaar, Daily Mail UK, and Garden & Gun among many others. SELLING POINTS: * Exceptional fine art photography - several years in the making - of the American cowboy/cowgirl and rodeo communities, the horse and cattle ranches, and the remarkable landscape of America's Wild West, by celebrated and award-winning photographer, Anouk Masson Krantz * Intimate explorations and portrayals of a society that honours historical traditions and practices a set of values that includes honesty, integrity, loyalty, work ethic, and dedication to family * A lavish tome filled with rich and awe-inspiring photography of mysterious and inspiring elements of American culture, accompanied by the author/photographer's unique storytelling 175 b/w photographs

Deep in the Wave

Author : Bear Woznick
Publisher : Hachette UK
ISBN 13 : 1455506478
Total Pages : 116 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (555 download)

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Book Synopsis Deep in the Wave by : Bear Woznick

Download or read book Deep in the Wave written by Bear Woznick and published by Hachette UK. This book was released on 2012-07-10 with total page 116 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For world-class surfer Bear Woznick, the ocean has always been the center of his universe. He's spent his entire life with it; riding its waves, learning from it, loving it. The ocean also nourishes the soul as Bear shows us on his surfboard. In DEEP IN THE WAVE, readers ride along with Woznick through the calmest of tides and most turbulent waves. Woznick's portrayal of the beauty and power of the ocean is truly inspiring and showcases the profound meaning surfing has had on his life. From the way a surfboard is painstakingly crafted, to the faith and patience that is required to ride a monster wave, Woznick weaves his relationship to surfing with his relationship to God, relating how the two are often one in the same. Instead of standing on the shore with our toes in the surf, Woznick takes us on the board--to the deep water--to watch and wait--and, if need be, to paddle hard to survive.

On a Wave

Author : Thad Ziolkowski
Publisher : Open Road + Grove/Atlantic
ISBN 13 : 0802198120
Total Pages : 270 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (21 download)

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Book Synopsis On a Wave by : Thad Ziolkowski

Download or read book On a Wave written by Thad Ziolkowski and published by Open Road + Grove/Atlantic. This book was released on 2007-12-01 with total page 270 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this wry and exhilarating coming-of-age story, a prizewinning poet poignantly looks back at his adolescent surfing years. As a disenchanted, unemployed English professor, Thad Ziolkowski decides one day to sneak away from his temp job in Manhattan and catch a wave off a dingy Queens shoreline. In the meager cold waves, he contemplates how he could have possibly become a semidepressed, chain-smoking, aimless man when, for a few shining years of his boyhood, he was invincible. His lapsed love affair with the ocean begins amid the late-sixties counterculture in coastal Florida. After his parents’ divorce, nine-year-old Thad escapes from his difficult family—notably a new brooding and explosive stepfather—by heading for the thrilling, uncharted waters of the local beach. In the embrace of the surf, he is able to stay offshore for years, until his life is upended once again, this time by a double tragedy that deposits him at a crossroads between a life in the waves and a life on land. Lyrical and disarmingly funny, On a Wave is a glorious portrait of youth that reminds readers of Tobias Wolff’s This Boy’s Life and Frank Conroy’s Stop-Time. “A sharp, self-conscious portrait of the artist as a young grommet.” —The New Yorker