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Water Waves On A Shallow Sloping Beach
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Book Synopsis Waves and Beaches by : Willard Bascom
Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Willard Bascom and published by Anchor. This book was released on 1980 with total page 528 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea by : Willard Bascom
Download or read book A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea written by Willard Bascom and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page 426 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Physical Geology written by Steven Earle and published by . This book was released on 2016-08-12 with total page 628 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is a discount Black and white version. Some images may be unclear, please see BCCampus website for the digital version.This book was born out of a 2014 meeting of earth science educators representing most of the universities and colleges in British Columbia, and nurtured by a widely shared frustration that many students are not thriving in courses because textbooks have become too expensive for them to buy. But the real inspiration comes from a fascination for the spectacular geology of western Canada and the many decades that the author spent exploring this region along with colleagues, students, family, and friends. My goal has been to provide an accessible and comprehensive guide to the important topics of geology, richly illustrated with examples from western Canada. Although this text is intended to complement a typical first-year course in physical geology, its contents could be applied to numerous other related courses.
Book Synopsis Sandy Beach Morphodynamics by : Derek Jackson
Download or read book Sandy Beach Morphodynamics written by Derek Jackson and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2020-05-20 with total page 814 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.
Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Kim McCoy and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2021-03-16 with total page 400 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers, Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate Activists, and Those Who Love the Sea First published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. The original author, Willard Bascom, was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general public understanding of the awesome and complex power of the waves. This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent facts and anecdotes to update the book's relevance in the time of climate change. One of the most significant effects of global warming will be sea-level rise. What will this mean to waves and beaches, and what effects are we already seeing? New text and photos cover events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of 2005, and the 2011 earthquake and resulting devastation in Fukishima. As well as students, surfers, and the general public, this updated edition of a beloved classic is an essential handbook for climate scientists and ocean activists, providing clear explanations and detailed resources for the constant battle to preserve the shore.
Book Synopsis Theoretical Geomorphology by : Adrian E. Scheidegger
Download or read book Theoretical Geomorphology written by Adrian E. Scheidegger and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-04-17 with total page 426 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The surface features of the Earth are commonly split into two cate gories, the first of which comprises those features that are due to processes occurring inside the solid Earth (endogenetic features) and the second those that are due to processes occurring outside the solid Earth (exogenetic features). Specifically, the endogenetic features are treated in the science of geodynamics, the exogenetic features in the science of geomorphology. I have treated the theoretical aspects of the endogenetic features in my "Principles of Geodynamics", and it is my aim to supplement my earlier book with a discussion of the theory of the exogenetic features. It is my hope that the two books will together present a reasonably coherent, if necessarily incomplete, account of theoretical geology. Contrary to endogenetic phenomena, exogenetic processes can often be directly observed as they occur: the action of a river, the development of a slope and the evolution of a shore platform are all sufficiently rapid so that they can be seen as they take place. This has the result that in geomorphology one is generally on much less speculative ground regard ing the mechanics of the processes at work than one is in geodynamics.
Book Synopsis Waves And Wave Forces On Coastal And Ocean Structures by : Robert T Hudspeth
Download or read book Waves And Wave Forces On Coastal And Ocean Structures written by Robert T Hudspeth and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2006-04-26 with total page 954 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book focuses on: (1) the physics of the fundamental dynamics of fluids and of semi-immersed Lagrangian solid bodies that are responding to wave-induced loads; (2) the scaling of dimensional equations and boundary value problems in order to determine a small dimensionless parameter ε that may be applied to linearize the equations and the boundary value problems so as to obtain a linear system; (3) the replacement of differential and integral calculus with algebraic equations that require only algebraic substitutions instead of differentiations and integrations; and (4) the importance of comparing numerical and analytical computations with data from laboratories and/or nature.
Book Synopsis Waves, Tides, and Shallow-water Processes by : Open University. Oceanography Course Team
Download or read book Waves, Tides, and Shallow-water Processes written by Open University. Oceanography Course Team and published by Pergamon. This book was released on 1989 with total page 196 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the fourth Volume of the six Volume Open University set. Each Volume is used by students as a relevant part of the Open University course in the UK, but designed so that it can equally be used as an individual text book. This Volume describes waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water and unusual waves. It also considers mainly theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition of currents, wave estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides and river flow in deltas. Concludes with a look at shelf-sea processes and their mineral resources. Each Volume in this set is well laid out and copiously illustrated with full colour photographs, graphs and graphics. Questions to help develop arguments and/or understanding can be found in the text and at the end of each chapter, with worked answers provided at the back of each Volume. Each chapter also concludes with a summary to help consolidate understanding before the next chapter is begun.
Book Synopsis Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology by : Robin Davidson-Arnott
Download or read book Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology written by Robin Davidson-Arnott and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2019-09-19 with total page 541 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.
Book Synopsis Shore Wave Modulation Due to Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone, with Applications by : Saad M. M. Abdelrahman
Download or read book Shore Wave Modulation Due to Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore Zone, with Applications written by Saad M. M. Abdelrahman and published by . This book was released on 1986 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The omni-present low frequency wave motion (30-300 sec) contains a substantial fraction of the total wave energy inside the surf zone. A more complete description of nearshore wave processes considers incident short period waves superposed on, and interacting with, long standing waves. The wind waves are modulated in amplitude, wavenumber and direction due to relatively slowly varying depth changes caused by the long waves. The energy in the wind wave band is enhanced by side band growth at the sum and difference frequencies of short and long waves (order 15% at the shoreline). The modulation is identified in the analysis of field data as a positive correlation between the long waves and the wind wave envelope near the shoreline. Considering oblique incident waves, a steady longshore current showing a non-vanishing current at the shoreline is found as a result of the non-linear interaction between monochromatic incident and infragravity waves. An analytical solution describing the unsteadiness of the longshore current is developed. Keywords include: Infragravity, Longshore Current, Sediment transport, and Surf zone dynamics. (Theses).
Book Synopsis Asian And Pacific Coasts 2011 - Proceedings Of The 6th International Conference by : Joseph Hun-wei Lee
Download or read book Asian And Pacific Coasts 2011 - Proceedings Of The 6th International Conference written by Joseph Hun-wei Lee and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2011-11-24 with total page 2187 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is a compilation of papers presented at the 6th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC2011) held on December 14-16, 2011 in Hong Kong, China. It contains more than 200 articles addressing a wide spectrum of issues, ranging from conventional coastal engineering problems (such as wave hydrodynamics and sediment transport) to issues of contemporary interest (such as tsunami, coastal development, climate change and seawater level rise, shoreline protection, marine energy, nearshore ecology, oil spill, etc.). Authors present their experiences in tackling these problems, by means of theoretical modeling, numerical simulation, laboratory and field observations, with an aim to advance fundamental understanding of the controlling mechanisms, as well as to develop solutions for practical designs. This volume serves to promote technological progress and activities, technical knowledge transfer and cooperation on an international scale.
Book Synopsis Nonlinear Water Waves by : Kiyoshi Horikawa
Download or read book Nonlinear Water Waves written by Kiyoshi Horikawa and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 457 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Non-linear behaviour of water waves has recently drawn much attention of scientists and engineers in the fields of oceanography, applied mathematics, coastal engineering, ocean engineering, naval architecture, and others. The IUTAM Symposium on Non-linear Water Waves was organized with the aim of bringing together researchers who are actively studying non-linear water waves from various viewpoints. The papers contained in this book are related to the generation and deformation of non-linear water waves and the non-linear interaction between waves and bodies. That is, various types of non-linear water waves were analyzed on the basis of various well-known equations, experimental studies on breaking waves were presented, and numerical studies of calculating second-order non-linear wave-body interaction were proposed.
Book Synopsis Wave Action and Breakwater Location, Port Washington Harbor, Wisconsin by : Waterways Experiment Station (U.S.)
Download or read book Wave Action and Breakwater Location, Port Washington Harbor, Wisconsin written by Waterways Experiment Station (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1951 with total page 108 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Operational Analysis and Prediction of Ocean Wind Waves by : Madhav L. Khandekar
Download or read book Operational Analysis and Prediction of Ocean Wind Waves written by Madhav L. Khandekar and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-03-07 with total page 223 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This monograph is an attempt to compile the present state of knowledge on ocean wave analysis and prediction. The emphasis of the monograph is on the development of ocean wave analysis and predic tion procedures and their utility for real-time operations and appli cations. Most of the material in the monograph is derived from journal articles, research reports and recent conference proceedings; some of the basic material is extracted from standard text books on physical oceanography and wind waves. Ocean wave analysis and prediction is becoming an important activity in the meteorological and oceanographic services of many countries. The present status of ocean wave prediction may be compar able to the status of numerical weather prediction of the mid-sixties and early seventies when a number of weather prediction models were developed for research purposes, many of which were later put into operational use by meteorological services of several countries. The increased emphasis on sea-state analysis and prediction has created a need for a ready reference material on various ocean wave analysis and modelling techniques and their utility. The present monograph is aimed at fulfilling this need. The monograph should prove useful to the ocean wave modelling community as well as to marine forecasters, coastal engineers and offshore technologists. The monograph could also be used for a senior undergraduate (or a first year graduate) level course in ocean wave modelling and marine meteorology.
Book Synopsis Extreme Ocean Waves by : Efim Pelinovsky
Download or read book Extreme Ocean Waves written by Efim Pelinovsky and published by Springer. This book was released on 2015-09-02 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Download or read book Applied Mechanics Reviews written by and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 620 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Selected Water Resources Abstracts by :
Download or read book Selected Water Resources Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 800 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: