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Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

WILD Adventure Cookbook Sarah Glover

Author : Sarah Glover
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780646970608
Total Pages : 340 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (76 download)

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Book Synopsis WILD Adventure Cookbook Sarah Glover by : Sarah Glover

Download or read book WILD Adventure Cookbook Sarah Glover written by Sarah Glover and published by . This book was released on 2017-08-30 with total page 340 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: GET WILD, STAY WILD Imagine yourself on the beach, by a roaring fire, as you fry the fish you just pulled out of the ocean. This is Wild. Sarah Glover has travelled the coasts of Australia to create dishes from beautiful Australian produce ? all of which is available right at our fingertips. Rock hop with her, from Tasmania to Byron Bay, from rabbit to seaweed, and learn how to combine the simplicity of food and travel in the great, great outdoors.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156032513
Total Pages : 820 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (325 download)

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Book Synopsis The Encyclopedia of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

She Surf

Author : Lauren L. Hill
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559989
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (599 download)

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Book Synopsis She Surf by : Lauren L. Hill

Download or read book She Surf written by Lauren L. Hill and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2020 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Join the celebration of the diverse, vibrant, and engaged community of women riding and making waves around the globe. While surfing is usually seen as a male domain, women have long been nurturing their own water stories and claiming their rightful place in the world of this sport. She Surf hails the females, past and present, who are engaged in expanding the art of surfing. Through exclusive interviews and evocative imagery, the book travels from the iconic waves of Hawaii to remote locations in Morocco. Learn about the forgotten stories of Polynesian surfing princesses, pioneering wave riders from the 1960s, and the contemporary movers and shakers shaping the scene. This book is an exciting reflection on what it means to be a female surfer and what it means to be moved to action by the beauty of the sea.

Golden Daze

Author : Sean Doherty
Publisher : Hachette Australia
ISBN 13 : 9780733639449
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (394 download)

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Book Synopsis Golden Daze by : Sean Doherty

Download or read book Golden Daze written by Sean Doherty and published by Hachette Australia. This book was released on 2020-04-21 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: GOLDEN DAZE is a compelling memoir of Australian surfing through a year in the life of Australia's top surfers. Starting in 1963, renowned surfing journalist Sean Doherty charts the history of surfing through the stories of Surfing Australia's Hall of Fame inductees. Taking a year and a surfer at a time, he will reveal what they did, where they surfed and their life events in fascinating depth and detail. Illustrated with unpublished images from the surfers' private collections, these stories also give a vivid sense of the shifting world around them, particularly in the ever-changing realm of surfing. GOLDEN DAZE opens in 1963 with Peter Troy jumping ship in Melbourne with a surfboard under his arm, embarking on his fabled surfing odyssey that saw him introducing surfing to Brazil, being crowned European champion, hitching alone across the Kalahari Desert and watching an unknown band from Liverpool called the Beatles. 1964 is Midget Farrelly's story of winning the first world title on home sand at Manly Beach. In 1969 Wayne Lynch goes down the coast, avoiding the Vietnam draft. And in 1971, Alby Falzon stumbles upon the island of Bali while shooting his humble surf movie MORNING OF THE EARTH. The book brings to life the 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s and noughties through the eyes of the Australian surfers who defined them best, ending today with stories of potential Hall of Famers, contemporary stars like Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson and Tyler Wright. Part journal, part biography, part surf culture memoir, GOLDEN DAZE gives a fascinating insight into Australian surfing and what makes it so unique.

Epic Surf Breaks of the World

Author : Lonely Planet
Publisher : Lonely Planet
ISBN 13 : 9781788686501
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (865 download)

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Book Synopsis Epic Surf Breaks of the World by : Lonely Planet

Download or read book Epic Surf Breaks of the World written by Lonely Planet and published by Lonely Planet. This book was released on 2020-08-18 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Lonely Planet explores the world's most righteous spots for riding waves in Epic Surf Breaks, the latest addition to its popular Epic series. From Java's G-Land to Hawaii's North Shore and on to Bells Beach in Victoria, Australia, surfers of all levels are sure to be thrilled. With stunning photography and gripping first hand accounts, there's no denying this ride will be epic.

Surfing

Author :
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 126 pages
Book Rating : 4.:/5 (321 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing by :

Download or read book Surfing written by and published by . This book was released on 1991 with total page 126 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Wild Sea

Author : Serge Dedina
Publisher : University of Arizona Press
ISBN 13 : 0816548110
Total Pages : 169 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (165 download)

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Book Synopsis Wild Sea by : Serge Dedina

Download or read book Wild Sea written by Serge Dedina and published by University of Arizona Press. This book was released on 2022-03-08 with total page 169 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many people have lamented the pollution and outright loss of beaches along the coasts of California and Mexico, but very few people have fought on behalf of beaches as hard—or as successfully—as Serge Dedina. Whether taking on an international conglomerate or tackling a state transportation agency, Dedina is truly an eco-warrior. In this sparkling collection of articles, many written for popular magazines, Dedina tells the stories as only an insider could. He writes with a firm grasp of facts along with an advocate’s passion and outrage. Sprinkled with just the right mix of humor and surf lingo, Dedina’s writing is “weapons grade”—surfer speak for totally awesome. Dedina grew up in Imperial Beach, California, just north of the Mexican border, and he feels equally at home in Mexico and the States. An expert on gray whales, he eloquently describes the fight he helped to lead against the Mitsubishi Corporation, whose plan to build a salt-processing plant in the San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California would have destroyed the world’s last undeveloped gray whale lagoon. With similar fervor, Dedina describes helping to construct the unlikely coalition that succeeded in defeating a proposed toll road that would have decimated a legendary California surf spot. In between, he writes about the first surfers in Baja, the Great Baja Land Rush of the 1990s, Tijuana’s punk music scene, the pop-culture wrestling phenomenon lucha libre, the reasons why ocean pollution must be stopped, and the way HBO took over his hometown. Anyone interested in what’s happening to our natural places or just yearning to read about someone really making a difference in the world will find this a book worth sinking their teeth into.

Surfing Life

Author : Mark Stranger
Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 1351896830
Total Pages : 266 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (518 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing Life by : Mark Stranger

Download or read book Surfing Life written by Mark Stranger and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2017-03-02 with total page 266 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing Life is a study of surfing and social change that also provides insights into other experience-based contemporary subcultures and the nature of the self and social formations in contemporary society. Making use of extensive empirical material to support innovative theoretical approaches to social change, this book offers an analysis of the relationship between embodied experience, culture and the economy. With its ground breaking theoretical contributions, and its foundation in an ethnographic study of surfing culture in locations across Australia, this volume will appeal not only to those interested in the social and cultural phenomenon of surfing, but also to anyone interested in the sociology of sport and leisure, the sociology of culture and consumption, risk-taking, subcultures and theories of contemporary social change.

Australian Beach Cultures

Author : Douglas Booth
Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 1136338470
Total Pages : 292 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (363 download)

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Book Synopsis Australian Beach Cultures by : Douglas Booth

Download or read book Australian Beach Cultures written by Douglas Booth and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Australians are surrounded by beaches. But this enclosure is more than a geographical fact for the inhabitants of an island continent; the beach is an integral part of the cultural envelope. This work analyzes the history of the beach as an integral aspect of Australian culture.

Back Roads Australia

Author : DK Publishing
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0756683785
Total Pages : 266 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (566 download)

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Book Synopsis Back Roads Australia by : DK Publishing

Download or read book Back Roads Australia written by DK Publishing and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2011-03-01 with total page 266 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: DK Eyewitness Back Roads Australia driving vacation guide will take you via scenic routes to discover charming Australian towns, local restaurants, and intimate places to stay. Unearth the real soul of Australia relying on all the practical information you could need, from road conditions and length of drive to parking information and opening hours. Twenty-two themed drives, each lasting one to seven days, reveal breathtaking views, hidden gems, and authentic local experiences in an Australia that can only be discovered by road. Each tour is bursting with insider knowledge and loaded with ideas for varied activities, from diving and snorkeling, to hiking, surfing, wine tours, cycling trips, and river-rafting. Meanwhile, the most friendly, best-value hotels and guesthouses and restaurants specializing in fresh local produce have been selected by expert authors. Discover the unexpected on your driving vacation with DK Eyewitness Back Roads Australia.

The World in the Curl

Author : Peter Westwick
Publisher : Crown
ISBN 13 : 0307719502
Total Pages : 418 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (77 download)

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Book Synopsis The World in the Curl by : Peter Westwick

Download or read book The World in the Curl written by Peter Westwick and published by Crown. This book was released on 2013-07-23 with total page 418 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A definitive and highly readable history of surfing and the cultural, political, economic, and environmental consequences of its evolution from a sport of Hawaiian kings and queens to a billion-dollar worldwide industry Despite its rebellious, outlaw reputation, or perhaps because of it, surfing occupies a central place in the American – and global – imagination, embodying the tension between romantic counterculture ideals and middle-class values, between an individualistic communion with nature and a growing commitment to commerce and technology. In examining the enduring widespread appeal of surfing in both myth and reality, The World in the Curl offers a fresh angle on the remarkable rise of the sport and its influence on modern life. Drawing on Peter Westwick and Peter Neushul’s expertise as historians of science and technology, the environment, and the Cold War, as well as decades of experience as surfers themselves, The World in the Curl brings alive the colorful history of surfing by drawing readers into the forces that fueled the sport's expansion: colonialism, the military-industrial complex, globalization, capitalism, environmental engineering, and race and gender roles. In an engaging and provocative narrative history – from the spread of surfing to the United States, to the development of surf culture, to the reintroduction of women into the sport, to big wave frontiers – the authors draw an indelible portrait of surfing and surfers as actors on the global stage.

The History of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 1452100942
Total Pages : 497 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (521 download)

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Book Synopsis The History of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2011-04-29 with total page 497 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is “meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading” (Outside Magazine). Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of Warshaw’s endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made surfing history happen. “The world’s most comprehensive chronicler of the surfing scene.” —Andy Martin, The Independent

The Surfin'ary

Author : Trevor Cralle
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 264 pages
Book Rating : 4.F/5 ( download)

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Book Synopsis The Surfin'ary by : Trevor Cralle

Download or read book The Surfin'ary written by Trevor Cralle and published by . This book was released on 1991 with total page 264 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Defines words and phrases unique to the vocabulary of surfers.

Style Eruptions

Author : Henrik Vejlgaard
Publisher : Lulu.com
ISBN 13 : 1939235030
Total Pages : 217 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (392 download)

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Book Synopsis Style Eruptions by : Henrik Vejlgaard

Download or read book Style Eruptions written by Henrik Vejlgaard and published by Lulu.com. This book was released on 2012-10-02 with total page 217 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The full story of how changes in style and taste take place Why do millions of people end up wearing the same style of clothing? Or have the same style in electronics, cars, and furniture? It's because of trends-the powerful process of change that takes place in the same way again and again across the globe. Drawing on his own and other sociologists' groundbreaking research, trend sociologist Henrik Vejlgaard unearths what happens when a new style emerge and go mainstream and examines the influential individuals who make trends happen. He documents that 6 very different groups of individuals play a huge role in the trend process. Style Eruptions is a follow-up to Anatomy of a Trend, his first book on the trend process which presented trends from a business perspective. With Style Eruptions he completes the story of one of the most puzzling mysteries of modern culture: how do changes in style and taste come about?

The Lifestyle Puzzle

Author : Henrick Vejlgaard
Publisher : Prometheus Books
ISBN 13 : 1616143223
Total Pages : 245 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (161 download)

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Book Synopsis The Lifestyle Puzzle by : Henrick Vejlgaard

Download or read book The Lifestyle Puzzle written by Henrick Vejlgaard and published by Prometheus Books. This book was released on 2010-07-27 with total page 245 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The author describes the emergence of a radically new type of tribalism, one based not on the fixity of age-old ethnic tradition but on the fluidity of diverse lifestyle choices being made by contemporary individuals. --Stephen Bertman, PhD, author of Hyperculture and Cultural AmnesiaAmerican society is more diverse than ever. A country that used to think of itself as the great melting pot may soon be calling itself the great lifestyle buffet. With increasing affluence, more and more Americans are in a position to choose whatever lifestyle most appeals to them. The result is that the national landscape has become an intricate mosaic of varying styles, self-expressions, and ways of life. Even the distinction between majority and minority is starting to blur.Is there any pattern to this ever-shifting kaleidoscope of identities? Social scientist and communications specialist Henrik Vejlgaard puts the pieces together into a coherent picture in this fascinating study of American diversity. Applying the astute pattern-recognition skills that he demonstrated in his previous book, the critically acclaimed Anatomy of a Trend, Vejlgaard examines how we transform our identities into practical everyday living-into our lifestyle.Going beyond the usual markers of identity-race, ethnicity, religion, political affiliation, income level, etc-he focuses on modes of communicating group identity nonverbally through consumer choices, clothing fashions, personal color choices, adornments, accessories, logos, signs, and symbols. Curiously, what emerges from his analysis is a pattern as ancient as human culture itself-a new form of tribalism. He foresees this trend continuing so that by the end of the twenty-first century there will be less identification with nation-states and ethnic groups and more small-group identification. As globalization and mass communication continue to link us together, we may all become so used to diversity that the idea of conflict based on national identity distinctions may seem antiquated.A book of remarkable insights, The Lifestyle Puzzle will have great appeal to readers interested in popular culture, social change, and consumer tastes.Henrik Vejlgaard, M.A., M.Sc. (Copenhagen, Denmark), is the author of Anatomy of a Trend, the groundbreaking book about how changes in style and taste take place. Combining a background of social science and communication, he is a master of recognizing patterns where others see only chaos. He has lectured on lifestyle and trend sociology at the University of Copenhagen and the University of Arhus, both in Denmark. Anatomy of a Trend has been published in more than thirty countries and translated into, among other languages, Chinese, Korean, Spanish, and Italian. Previously he has written three books in Danish on lifestyle and trend sociology. Visit Henrik Vejlgaard online at www.henrikvejlgaard.com.

Maverick's

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 9780811841597
Total Pages : 272 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (415 download)

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Book Synopsis Maverick's by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book Maverick's written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2003-10-09 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With its massive faces, punishing rocks, and treacherous currents, Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Author Matt Warshaw has updated his critically acclaimed illustrated history of Maverick's to cover important recent developments, and we've added a fresh new cover to kick this edition off in style. "A fascinating account," to quote Surfer magazine, it takes "a cue from Sebastian Junger's The Perfect Storm...Warshaw focused on a single event...and expands on it to illuminate an entire culture and its world beyond waves." The event was the death of celebrated surfer Mark Foo, one of those who congregate every winter to test themselves in the dark, foreboding waters. And what unfolds in Maverick's is no less than the story of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins to modern tow-in riders. It's a book to be enjoyed not only by those who surf deep in the waves, but also by those whose taste for adventure is satisfied deep in the pages of a very good book.