Van Life Surfer Beach Ocean Waves Surf Journal

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Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Maverick's

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 9780811841597
Total Pages : 272 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (415 download)

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Book Synopsis Maverick's by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book Maverick's written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2003-10-09 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With its massive faces, punishing rocks, and treacherous currents, Maverick's presents a surfing challenge like no other. Author Matt Warshaw has updated his critically acclaimed illustrated history of Maverick's to cover important recent developments, and we've added a fresh new cover to kick this edition off in style. "A fascinating account," to quote Surfer magazine, it takes "a cue from Sebastian Junger's The Perfect Storm...Warshaw focused on a single event...and expands on it to illuminate an entire culture and its world beyond waves." The event was the death of celebrated surfer Mark Foo, one of those who congregate every winter to test themselves in the dark, foreboding waters. And what unfolds in Maverick's is no less than the story of big-wave surfing, from its ancient Hawaiian origins to modern tow-in riders. It's a book to be enjoyed not only by those who surf deep in the waves, but also by those whose taste for adventure is satisfied deep in the pages of a very good book.

AFROSURF

Author : Mami Wata
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984860410
Total Pages : 320 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis AFROSURF by : Mami Wata

Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.

Malibu

Author : Ben Marcus
Publisher : Arcadia Publishing
ISBN 13 : 9780738576145
Total Pages : 132 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (761 download)

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Book Synopsis Malibu by : Ben Marcus

Download or read book Malibu written by Ben Marcus and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2011 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Malibu offers the best in Southern California living. This small town is situated close to Los Angeles and Hollywood, but far enough away from the traffic and stress of big-city life. All the clichés of Southern California come true in Malibu: the swimming pools, movie stars, paparazzi, and fancy cars. It's the land of champagne wishes and caviar dreams. But Malibu is also a beautiful, quiet, and surprisingly rural beachfront community. In a desirable location going back to the time of the Chumash Indians, the peace and environment of Malibu have been protected by city fathers with a vision. This is the California Riviera, a thin slice of la dolce vita located between the Santa Monica Mountains and the deep blue sea.

Saltwater Buddha

Author : Jaimal Yogis
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 0861719980
Total Pages : 265 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (617 download)

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Book Synopsis Saltwater Buddha by : Jaimal Yogis

Download or read book Saltwater Buddha written by Jaimal Yogis and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2009-04-10 with total page 265 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

Surf Shacks

Author : Matt Titone
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559071
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (59 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Shacks by : Matt Titone

Download or read book Surf Shacks written by Matt Titone and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2017 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many abodes can fall under the label of surf shack: New York City apartments, cabins nestled next to national parks, or tiny Hawaiian huts. Surfing communities are overflowing with creativity, innovation, and rich personas. Surf Shacks takes a deeper look at surfers' homes and artistic habits. Glimpses of record collections, strolls through backyard gardens, or a peek into a painter's studio provide insight into surfers' lives both on and off shore. From the remote Hawaiian nook of filmmaker Jess Bianchi to the woodsy Japanese paradise that the former CEO of Surfrider Foundation in Japan, Hiromi Masubara, calls home to the converted bus that Ryan Lovelace claims as his domicile and his transport, every space has a unique tale. The moments that these vibrant personalities spend away from the swell and the froth are both captivating and nuanced.

Kook

Author : Peter Heller
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1439171815
Total Pages : 336 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (391 download)

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Book Synopsis Kook by : Peter Heller

Download or read book Kook written by Peter Heller and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2010-07-13 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Under the Wave at Waimea

Author : Paul Theroux
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin
ISBN 13 : 0358446287
Total Pages : 421 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (584 download)

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Book Synopsis Under the Wave at Waimea by : Paul Theroux

Download or read book Under the Wave at Waimea written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2021 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.

Vanlife Diaries

Author : Kathleen Morton
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 0399581146
Total Pages : 242 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (995 download)

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Book Synopsis Vanlife Diaries by : Kathleen Morton

Download or read book Vanlife Diaries written by Kathleen Morton and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2019-04-09 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A photography book celebrating the nomadic lifestyle and community of vanlife through interviews, essential advice for living on the road, and more than 200 photos of tiny rolling homes. Inspired by the blog and Instagram account, Vanlife Diaries is an inspiring and detailed look into the world of the rolling homes built and occupied by a new generation of modern nomads: a range of professionals and creatives who have ditched conventional houses for the freedom of the road and the beauty of the outdoors. More than 200 photographs feature the vanlifers, their pets, and their converted vans and buses--VWs, Sprinters, Toyotas, and more--with the interiors uniquely customized and decorated for their work and hobbies, as well as the stunning natural locations that are the movement's inspiration. Interviews and narrative captions share the stories of these nomads and how they decided to pursue vanlife, and provide practical tips and inspiration for downsizing, finding and converting your vehicle, and working and living on the road.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156032513
Total Pages : 820 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (325 download)

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Book Synopsis The Encyclopedia of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Surfing Spaces

Author : Jon Anderson
Publisher : Taylor & Francis
ISBN 13 : 1317534697
Total Pages : 350 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (175 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing Spaces by : Jon Anderson

Download or read book Surfing Spaces written by Jon Anderson and published by Taylor & Francis. This book was released on 2022-08-04 with total page 350 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The act of surfing involves highly-skilled humans gliding, sliding, or otherwise riding waves of energy as they pass through water. As this book argues, however, this act of surfing does not exist in isolation. It is defined by the cultures and geographies that synergize with it – by the places, ideas, images, and other representations which at once reflect, create, and commodify this spatial practice. This book innovatively explores the spaces of surf and surf-riding, informed specifically by the perspective of human geography. Based on a range of critical turns within the social sciences, the book explores the locations, relational sensibilities, and transformative nature of surfing spaces, and examines how the spatial practice has been scripted by dominant surfing cultures. The book details how prescriptive (b)orders of access, entitlement, and marginalization have been created, and how, with the advent of new craft, media, and ideals, they are being actively challenged to redefine surfing spaces in the twenty-first century.

Scratching the Horizon

Author : Izzy Paskowitz
Publisher : Macmillan + ORM
ISBN 13 : 1250023998
Total Pages : 272 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (5 download)

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Book Synopsis Scratching the Horizon by : Izzy Paskowitz

Download or read book Scratching the Horizon written by Izzy Paskowitz and published by Macmillan + ORM. This book was released on 2012-08-21 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Scratching the Horizon presents a bitchin' love letter to sand and sea, and a spirited inside account of life with the "first family" of American surfing. In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favor of intangible riches like health and good cheer . . . all the while careening along the world's coastlines in search of the perfect wave. In Scratching the Horizon, Izzy Paskowitz looks back at his unusual upbringing, and his lifelong passion for the sport that carries his family's stamp. As the fourth-oldest child in a family of inveterate surfers, rock stars, and beach bums, he is uniquely qualified to shine a light on a childhood that has come to symbolize the surfing credo, a reckless young adulthood that nearly cost him his sanity, and a maturing sense of self and purpose that allows him to lift others on the back of his experience. As the father of a son with autism and the founder of "Surfers Healing," a foundation devoted to expanding the horizons of children with autism through surfing, Paskowitz has found a way to connect the surreal aspects of his childhood to the harsh realities of adulthood, and he shares these discoveries in this wickedly entertaining and transforming memoir.

Sustainable Surfing

Author : Gregory Borne
Publisher : Taylor & Francis
ISBN 13 : 131739657X
Total Pages : 277 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (173 download)

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Book Synopsis Sustainable Surfing by : Gregory Borne

Download or read book Sustainable Surfing written by Gregory Borne and published by Taylor & Francis. This book was released on 2017-03-16 with total page 277 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Whilst being an ambiguous and contested concept, sustainability has become one of the twenty-first century’s most pervasive ideas, as humanity’s increasing impact on the environment, as well as increasing social and economic inequalities, have local and global consequences. Surfing is a globally recognised cultural phenomenon whose unique connection with nature and rapid expansion into a multibillion pound industry offers exciting synergies for exploring various dimensions of sustainability. This book is the first to bring together the world’s foremost experts on the themes of sustainability and surfing. Drawing upon cutting edge theory and research, this book offers multidisciplinary perspectives and methodological approaches on the social, environmental and economic components of sustainable surfing. Contributions provide unique discussions that bridge the gap between theory and practice, exploring topics such as sustainable surf tourism, surf-econometrics, surf activism, surfing governance, the surfing industry, and technological advancements. Each chapter produces in-depth insights to provide foundational insights of the relationship between sustainability and surfing. This book will appeal to multiple audiences in different disciplines and sectors. Practitioners will benefit from the insights presented in this volume, while both undergraduate and postgraduate students will find this volume an invaluable companion, including those working in geography, environmental studies, sport sciences, and leisure and tourism studies.

Surfing

Author : Benjamin Marcus
Publisher : MVP Books
ISBN 13 : 1610587618
Total Pages : 209 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (15 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing by : Benjamin Marcus

Download or read book Surfing written by Benjamin Marcus and published by MVP Books. This book was released on 2013-03-05 with total page 209 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing enthusiast Ben Marcus takes you as close to the waves as you can get without hitting the beach. Surfing is more than just a sport; it is a cultural phenomenon. From its mystical beginnings in Polynesia, surfing has evolved into a worldwide passion, establishing its own roster of legends and seeping into our society—in movies, in fashion, in music, and in language. Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, the “father of surfing,” helped elevate the sport beyond its Pacific Islands origins more than a century ago, and his torch has been carried on by a long line of surf heroes: Woody Brown, Mickey Dora, Laird Hamilton, Kelly Slater, and many, many others. During the 1950s and 1960s, surf culture and fashion exploded into movies and music. “Gidget,” the Beach Boys, and even Elvis Presley exposed surfing to the masses, and decades later, the sport and its proponents remain fixtures in pop culture and the media. Yet, through the years, surfing has maintained its reputation as a refuge for non-conformists; its often below-the-radar individualistic lifestyle defies a dry chronicle neatly tied up with a bow. In this comprehensive history of surfing, author Ben Marcus captures the glamour and excitement of this extreme sport. If you are still in awe of that first surfboard, still stoked by hanging ten, or still dreaming of that elusive wave, then this book is for you. Surfing: An Illustrated History of the Coolest Sport of All Time brings you up close and personal to the exciting world of surfing.

She Surf

Author : Lauren L. Hill
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559989
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (599 download)

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Book Synopsis She Surf by : Lauren L. Hill

Download or read book She Surf written by Lauren L. Hill and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2020 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Join the celebration of the diverse, vibrant, and engaged community of women riding and making waves around the globe. While surfing is usually seen as a male domain, women have long been nurturing their own water stories and claiming their rightful place in the world of this sport. She Surf hails the females, past and present, who are engaged in expanding the art of surfing. Through exclusive interviews and evocative imagery, the book travels from the iconic waves of Hawaii to remote locations in Morocco. Learn about the forgotten stories of Polynesian surfing princesses, pioneering wave riders from the 1960s, and the contemporary movers and shakers shaping the scene. This book is an exciting reflection on what it means to be a female surfer and what it means to be moved to action by the beauty of the sea.

Australian Beach Cultures

Author : Douglas Booth
Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 1136338470
Total Pages : 292 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (363 download)

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Book Synopsis Australian Beach Cultures by : Douglas Booth

Download or read book Australian Beach Cultures written by Douglas Booth and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Australians are surrounded by beaches. But this enclosure is more than a geographical fact for the inhabitants of an island continent; the beach is an integral part of the cultural envelope. This work analyzes the history of the beach as an integral aspect of Australian culture.

Surfer Magazine's Guide to Northern and Central California Surf Spots

Author : The Editors of Surfer Magazine
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 9780811849982
Total Pages : 188 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (499 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfer Magazine's Guide to Northern and Central California Surf Spots by : The Editors of Surfer Magazine

Download or read book Surfer Magazine's Guide to Northern and Central California Surf Spots written by The Editors of Surfer Magazine and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2006-05-04 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfer Magazine offers the ultimate guide to catching the best waves from the redwood shores of the Oregon-California border to the wind- blasted coastal plains of San Luis Obispo County. For more than 250 spots, this sturdy manual sporting a water-resistant covers delivers a clear assessment of wave quality, prime wave conditions, and local hazards (both natural and manmade). Informative text answers the burning questions that surfers often pose: What tide? What wind? What swell? How are the locals? Are they worse than the sharksor the traffic? With helpful maps, photos, and directions, this Surfer's Guide is sure to become the gold standard for anyone looking to score the perfect wave.