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The Surfers Journey
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Download or read book Pipe Dreams written by Kelly Slater and published by HarperCollins. This book was released on 2020-02-18 with total page 316 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Soon to be an ABC reality series entitled Ultimate Surfer, starring 11-time World Surf League champion Kelly Slater Six-time world surfing champion, actor, and American heartthrob Kelly Slater tells his inspiring story of triumph over adversity From Beach Blanket Bingo to Baywatch to Blue Crush, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport’s hottest star. He has won more world championships than any other competitor, and he continues to change peoples’ minds about what can and can’t be done on a surfboard. His wild ride has included fame, fortune, a stint on Baywatch, and a high-profile relationship with Pamela Anderson. Not bad for a skinny kid from a broken home in Cocoa Beach, Florida. In Pipe Dreams, Kelly takes the reader into oceans around the world to take on thunderous walls of water and shares the outrageous stories, solemn moments, and undeniable spirit that have made him a superstar.
Book Synopsis The Surfer's Journey by : Don Kennedy
Download or read book The Surfer's Journey written by Don Kennedy and published by Surfers Journey. This book was released on 2017-06-15 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Surfer's Journey is a research-based fable about a man who ignores the call and meaning of a nightmare - until he begins a mythological journey to discover the ten principles of he'e nalu (surfing) and his perfect wave of bliss. The book was written to teach readers, students, educators, and leaders how to become transformational heroes.
Download or read book Life of Brine written by Phil Jarratt and published by Hardie Grant Publishing. This book was released on 2017-08-01 with total page 371 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “In the not-so-small world of surfing, Phil Jarratt has seen it all. Luckily for us, he’s a fearless, funny storyteller, with a reporter’s unsentimental eye and an endearing modesty. But his memoir is, above all, a haunting self-portrait: the boy practising drop-knee cutbacks in his mother’s full-length mirror in mid-century Wollongong becomes a man.” William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days Life of Brine is the memoir of Phil Jarratt, one of the world’s best-known chroniclers of surfing culture whose lifelong pursuit of the perfect wave has placed him in the midst of some of the most exciting moments in surfing’s modern history. Jarratt, who has courted controversy in his long career as a journalist, editor and documentarian, pulls no punches as he rides an exhilarating wave of nostalgia from the sixties up until now, through the heady days of drugs, alcohol and excess in Bali and Biarritz and other exotic locations in between. Filled with debauchery, reflection and insight, this is a book that will be devoured by surfers young and old.
Book Synopsis The Surfer's Journey by : Donald E. Kennedy
Download or read book The Surfer's Journey written by Donald E. Kennedy and published by . This book was released on 2015 with total page 156 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In convention of Joseph Campbell's (2008) mythical heroes, The Surfers Journey is a research and principle based mythological tale focused on influencing, instructing, and inspiring the common individual of today to dare answer their call to become a transformational hero, a call often ignored by those who accept existence and life as it is (Burns, 2003). In the end, The Surfer's Journey's is a symbolic guidebook melding proven leadership principles through the lens of surfing to move the ordinary individual toward the focus and behaviors of a bliss driven (Campbell, 2004) transformational leader and hero who inspires and motivates followers (Burns, 2003) to achieve beyond their present capacity.
Download or read book The Flow written by Dominik Baur and published by Benteli. This book was released on 2021-06 with total page 224 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hommage to the world of surfing in Europe by capturing the essence of the sport and its lifestyle through images and stories.
Download or read book Just Add Water written by Clay Marzo and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2015 with total page 293 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the best freestyle surfer in the world, an inspiring and moving memoir about his ascendance to the top of the surfing world while struggling for most of his young life with undiagnosed Asperger's syndrome Clay Marzo has an almost preternatural gift with a surfboard. From his first moments underwater (he learned to swim at two months old) to his first ventures atop his father's surfboard as a toddler, it was obvious that Marzo's single-minded focus on all things surfing was unique. But not until late in his teens, when this surfing phenom was diagnosed with Asperger's syndrome, did the deeper reasons for his obsession--and his astonishing gift for surfing--becomeclear. Just Add Water is the remarkable story of Marzo's rise to the top of the pro surfing world--and the personal trials he overcame in making it there. Marzo endured a difficult childhood. He was a colicky baby who his mother found could be soothed only with water. Later, as he entered school, his undiagnosed Asperger's made it tough for him to relate to his peers and fit in, but his relationship with the wave was elemental. Marzo could always turn to surfing, the only place where he truly feltat peace. Unflinching and inspiring,Just Add Wateris a brave memoir from a one-of-a-kind surfing savant who has electrified fans around the world with his gift and whose story speaks boldly to the hope and ultimate triumph of the human spirit.
Download or read book Swell written by LIZ. CLARK and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2024-05-14 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Kook written by Peter Heller and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2010-07-13 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
Book Synopsis Natural Surf Technique by : Frank Caronna
Download or read book Natural Surf Technique written by Frank Caronna and published by . This book was released on 2014-10-17 with total page 82 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: I wrote this book with the confidence of 25 years teaching and coaching surfing and feel I have established a technique that will help beginner to intermediate surfers learn and reach their potential faster while staying safe and respectful to other surfers and the ocean. I have used my techniques to help surfers of all levels while keeping in mind the different body types people have and hope you enjoy the techniques and teachings the book provides. You can view the slide up technique and a few other things I teach in the book on YouTube under Natural Surf Technique to better help you understand and connect the techniques better. Enjoy and better safer surfing, Frank Caronna(Author owner and surf coach for Natural Surf Technique)
Download or read book 100 Waves written by Michael W. Barnard and published by . This book was released on 2009 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2021-10-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.
Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Book Synopsis Riding the Waves of Life by : Bruno Lins
Download or read book Riding the Waves of Life written by Bruno Lins and published by Independently Published. This book was released on 2023-11-21 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The book Riding the Waves of Life: A Surfer's Journey to Balance is the gripping story of one human being journey to balance his love of the ocean with the demands of a fulfilling career. Meet Alex Mitchell, a passionate surfer torn between the endless allure of the waves and the responsibilities of a demanding job. As the tides of life pull him in different directions, Alex embarks on a quest for balance, using the skills he has honed in the surf to navigate the challenges of the corporate world and personal life. This book explores the exhilaration of riding the waves, the camaraderie of the surfing community and the quest for a life well lived by the sea. Join Alex as he discovers that, much like the ebb and flow of the ocean, the key to a fulfilling life is finding harmony between passion and responsibility. Riding the waves of life: A Surfer's Journey to Balance is an inspiring story of resilience, perseverance and the transformative power of following your dreams.
Book Synopsis Surf by Day, Jam by Night by : Ash Grunwald
Download or read book Surf by Day, Jam by Night written by Ash Grunwald and published by Pantera Press. This book was released on 2019-08-19 with total page 334 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surf by Day, Jam by Night is seasoned bluesman and surfer Ash Grunwald's deep dive into the extraordinary. Ash takes to the road, interviewing 15 of the world's top surfer–musicians. From Kelly Slater to Stephanie Gilmore, Jack Johnson to Dave Rastovich, Pete Murray to G. Love and many more, like Ash, these are people doing life their own way. Soulful and candid, these conversations offer insights into the lives and minds of some masters of both surfing and music. Spanning stories of heavy wipe-outs and heaving crowds and riffs on style, the flow state, career longevity and jamming vs shredding, this book is an often light-hearted, wide-ranging meditation on what it really takes to live your dreams. If you've ever found yourself in any kind of rut and wondered if there's something more out there, here's a call to wake up, take your life into your hands and dare to follow your passions.
Book Synopsis First Priority by : Christopher Moore
Download or read book First Priority written by Christopher Moore and published by . This book was released on 2017-03-29 with total page 139 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: First Priority is the story of a father and daughter's journey to the pinnacle of professional surfing. Growing up in Hawaii, Christopher Moore was bit by the surfing bug early, but he had no idea the extent to which the sport would take him until his daughter came along. Like her dad, Carissa took to the water at an early age. She immediately showed an amazing natural talent for surfing and before he knew it, Chris was taking his young daughter surfing nearly every single day. Enjoying the same beaches and reefs where surfing was invented hundreds of years ago, this love for wave riding blossomed into a professional career and today Carissa has become a world surfing champion three times over. This is the first-hand story of Chris and Carissa's pursuit of greatness and their quest to claim the 2015 title.
Book Synopsis When We Get to Surf City by : Bob Greene
Download or read book When We Get to Surf City written by Bob Greene and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 2008-05-13 with total page 352 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In a dazzling and exhilarating display of narrative on-the-road reporting, award-winning journalist and New York Times bestselling author Bob Greene takes readers on an unforgettable American journey of music, memories, and universal longing. Running away to join the circus is a dream we're told to put away once we're no longer young. But, as Bob Greene writes, "just when in our lives we give up on capturing the freedom and bright mornings of our world when it was new, sometimes something happens to keep the sun high in the sky a while longer. Sometimes we find something we weren't even aware we were looking for." For fifteen years beginning in the 1990s, Greene stepped into a universe that, out in the country every summer night, is hiding in plain sight: the touring world of the great early rock bands who gave America the car-radio and jukebox music it still loves best. Singing backup with the legendary Jan and Dean as they endlessly crisscross the nation, Greene takes us to football stadiums and minor-league ballparks, to no-name ice cream stands and midnight diners, to back roads and carnival midways as he tells a riveting story of great fame and lingering sorrow, of unexpected friendship and lasting dreams, of the things that keep us going in the face of all the things that threaten to stop us. Striking chords of recognition and yearning, When We Get to Surf City glistens with cameos by the men and women with whom Greene traveled the United States on his deliriously unlikely journey, including Chuck Berry, Martha and the Vandellas, the Everly Brothers, Jerry Lee Lewis, the Beach Boys, the Monkees, the Kingsmen, James Brown, Lesley Gore, the Drifters, Little Eva, and the Coasters. All of them—not just the people on the stage, but the people in the audiences, too—are seeking their private versions of the mythical destination Jan and Dean came up with all those years ago: Surf City as the perfect, cloudless place we all believe is out there, if only we can find it. Hilarious and heartbreaking, moving and brilliant, this is the trip of a lifetime, a travelogue of the heart, accompanied by a thundering guitar chorus of Fender Stratocasters. It is a story destined to touch readers not just today, but for generations to come, as long as the music itself echoes.
Book Synopsis Grey Skies, Green Waves by : Tom Anderson
Download or read book Grey Skies, Green Waves written by Tom Anderson and published by Summersdale. This book was released on 2010-06-07 with total page 252 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Tom Anderson has always loved surfing – anywhere except the UK. But a chance encounter leads him to a series of adventures on home surf... As he visits the popular haunts and secret gems of British surfing he rekindles his love affair with the freezing fun that is surfing the North Atlantic.
