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The Kinematics Of Breaking Waves In The Surf Zone
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Book Synopsis The Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone by : Alfred James Olsen
Download or read book The Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone written by Alfred James Olsen and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 164 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Simultaneous measurements of sea surface elevation and onshore and alongshore water particle velocities were measured at three locations within the surf zone using two capacitance type penetrating wave staffs and three two-component electromagnetic flow meters. The probability density functions, pdf, for the sea surface elevation were always highly positively skewed, whereas the pdf's for the velocities were both negatively and positively skewed. Mean values of the onshore and alongshore components of flow reflected the influence of a rip current frequently observed just south of the instrument locations. Strong harmonics in the spectra of sea surface fluctuations and particle velocities infer nonlinear conditions. Coherence values between waves and onshore flow were high, ranging above 0.9. The coherence between waves and onshore flow was used to separate the turbulence and wave-induced velocity components. Over the range of collapsing to spilling breakers a reasonable value for the ratio of turbulent to wave-induced velocity was determined to be approximately 0.75. Saturation regions were found in the wave and velocity energy-density spectra at higher frequencies as evidenced by -5 and -3 slopes, respectively. (Author).
Book Synopsis The Kinematics of Water Particle Velocities of Breaking Waves Within the Surf Zone by : Edward B. Thornton
Download or read book The Kinematics of Water Particle Velocities of Breaking Waves Within the Surf Zone written by Edward B. Thornton and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Simultaneous measurements of waves, and vertical and horizontal water particle velocities were made at the breaker-line within the surf zone using a capacitance type penetrating wave staff, a pressure wave gauge, and an electromagnetic current meter. Wave measurements were also made at seaward and shoreward locations. The wave energy-density spectral components were converted to velocity spectral components using linear wave theory. These computed values compared well qualitatively with the measured velocity spectra. Quantitatively, the results showed that linear theory underpredicted wave-induced horizontal velocity spectral components by about 50 percent at the frequency of peak energy. Probability density functions were computed and compared to Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. The Gram-Charlier distribution qualitatively gave the better fit to the data. (Modified author abstract).
Book Synopsis Kinematics of Water Particle Motion Within the Surf Zone by : Rafael Steer
Download or read book Kinematics of Water Particle Motion Within the Surf Zone written by Rafael Steer and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 124 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The objective of this research was to make preliminary studies on the kinematics of the water particle motion within the surf zone and within breaking waves. Simultaneous measurements were made of the instantaneous sea surface elevation and of horizontal and vertical particle velocities at different elevations in the same column of water in the surf zone, and of the offshore sea surface elevation. The probability density functions and spectra of the wave and particle velocity measurements were determined.
Book Synopsis Surf Zone Wave Kinematics by : Frank Lee Bub
Download or read book Surf Zone Wave Kinematics written by Frank Lee Bub and published by . This book was released on 1974 with total page 130 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The experiment was designed to measure surface profiles and water velocities in the breaker zone and compare the results with present theory. As a secondary objective the accuracy and usefulness of capacitance wave gages and electromagnetic flow meters in the surf environment were evaluated.
Book Synopsis Kinematics and Directionality of Waves in the Surf Zone by : J. van Heteren
Download or read book Kinematics and Directionality of Waves in the Surf Zone written by J. van Heteren and published by . This book was released on 1985 with total page 376 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone by : Victor Sandiford Hultstrand
Download or read book Kinematics of Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone written by Victor Sandiford Hultstrand and published by . This book was released on 1977 with total page 146 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Measurements were made of the water level fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in breaking waves. The breaking waves were identified and classified. The mean value of the height of breaking to depth of breaking was calculated and found to be 0.86 for a composite of the waves measured; the mean ratio values for collapsing, plunging and spilling were 0.84, 0.87 and 0.90, respectively. Probability distributions were plotted for wave heights and horizontal velocities and qualitatively compared with Rayleigh distributions; the wave distributions fit well but velocity did not. The spectra of wave profile and horizontal velocity were calculated and indicated a narrow banded data set. The coherence values between horizontal water particle velocities and wave profile were generally high, indicating that the horizontal particle velocities measured were highly wave-induced. The phase shift at the peak energy frequency was about 40 deg which suggested the presence of reflected waves. (Author).
Book Synopsis Irregular Wave Kinematics in the Surf Zone by : Nels John Sultan
Download or read book Irregular Wave Kinematics in the Surf Zone written by Nels John Sultan and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 270 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Kinematics and Dynamics of Breaking Waves by : Søren Peter Kjeldsen
Download or read book Kinematics and Dynamics of Breaking Waves written by Søren Peter Kjeldsen and published by . This book was released on 1978 with total page 234 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Kinematics of Surf Zone Breaking Waves by : James Joseph Galvin
Download or read book Kinematics of Surf Zone Breaking Waves written by James Joseph Galvin and published by . This book was released on 1975 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Simultaneous measurements of water surface fluctuations and horizontal water particle velocities in a line perpendicular to the direction of wave approach extending across the surf zone were taken in varying surf conditions at two locations. The spectral velocities calculated using linear theory as a transfer function underestimated measured values by 79-86% at the peak of the spectrum. The coherence values were generally low indicating non-linear and turbulent conditions. Strong harmonics in the spectra of the waves and water particle velocities further suggest a non-linear system. The theoretical phases computed using linear theory did not accurately predict the observed phases. In general breaking waves can be characterized as a strongly non-linear wave phenomenon. Measured frequency distributions were compared with both Gaussian and Gram-Charlier distributions by using the chi-square goodness-of-fit test. Qualitatively, the Gram-Charlier distribution gave the better fit to the flow velocity data.
Book Synopsis Miscellaneous Report by : Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)
Download or read book Miscellaneous Report written by Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1976 with total page 508 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Miscellaneous Report - Coastal Engineering Research Center by : Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.)
Download or read book Miscellaneous Report - Coastal Engineering Research Center written by Coastal Engineering Research Center (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1976 with total page 754 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Water Wave Kinematics written by A. Tørum and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 751 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.
Book Synopsis Nonlinear Topics in Ocean Physics by : A.R. Osborne
Download or read book Nonlinear Topics in Ocean Physics written by A.R. Osborne and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 1991-07-04 with total page 1032 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The main fields presented at this school were mesoscale and large scale flows, and nonlinear wave dynamics. The resulting proceedings present the latest developments in these fields.
Book Synopsis Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone by : William R. Dally
Download or read book Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone written by William R. Dally and published by . This book was released on 1987 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The random wave model is verified to field data and good agreement is obtained for both statistically representative waves and histograms, without additional calibration. The effect of a collinear current on the breaking process of regular waves is then investigated theoretically and experimentally. A governing equation is proposed and verified to the laboratory data with good results, except for the combination of a short-period wave and a strong opposing current. The effects of long waves such as surf beat (which can be depicted as a slowly varying current and mean water level) on the transformation of random wind-waves is investigated by incorporating the results of the regular wave/current study. If no correlation between the wind-wave group and the surf beat is assumed, only a slight (~ 4%) increase in decay of the root mean square wave height, Hrmg , is observed.
Book Synopsis Measuring Shallow Water Waves with Pressure Sensors by : Vitor Manuel Henriques Goncalo
Download or read book Measuring Shallow Water Waves with Pressure Sensors written by Vitor Manuel Henriques Goncalo and published by . This book was released on 1978 with total page 146 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For two locations within the surf zone sea surface elevations were observed using a wave staff and a pressure sensor while simultaneously the two horizontal orthogonal components, u and v, of water particle velocity were measured. Surface elevations derived from pressure sensors are lower, mainly in the region of the crest, compared with the same surface elevations measured with wave gages. Pressure records are more smoothed than wave gage records, and the energy computed for waves measured with a pressure sensor is consistently smaller than for waves measured with a wave gage. Methods for converting pressure to surface elevation are given which include the non-linear velocity term (u sq + v sq) which is usually neglected in the Bernoulli equation. Two techniques are proposed to include this term: (1) flowmeters are used to measure u and v, and (2) the Bernoulli term is derived by determining the velocities by convolving the pressure records using a weighting function determined from shallow water theory.
Book Synopsis Selected Water Resources Abstracts by :
Download or read book Selected Water Resources Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1979 with total page 816 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Nonlinear Water Waves by : Kiyoshi Horikawa
Download or read book Nonlinear Water Waves written by Kiyoshi Horikawa and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 457 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Non-linear behaviour of water waves has recently drawn much attention of scientists and engineers in the fields of oceanography, applied mathematics, coastal engineering, ocean engineering, naval architecture, and others. The IUTAM Symposium on Non-linear Water Waves was organized with the aim of bringing together researchers who are actively studying non-linear water waves from various viewpoints. The papers contained in this book are related to the generation and deformation of non-linear water waves and the non-linear interaction between waves and bodies. That is, various types of non-linear water waves were analyzed on the basis of various well-known equations, experimental studies on breaking waves were presented, and numerical studies of calculating second-order non-linear wave-body interaction were proposed.
