Surfing Isnt Just A Sport Its A Way Of Life

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Rockaway

Author : Diane Cardwell
Publisher : Mariner Books
ISBN 13 : 0358067782
Total Pages : 275 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (58 download)

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Book Synopsis Rockaway by : Diane Cardwell

Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Mariner Books. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockaway is the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockaway is a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.

It's Great to Suck at Something

Author : Karen Rinaldi
Publisher : Atria Books
ISBN 13 : 150119576X
Total Pages : 256 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (11 download)

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Book Synopsis It's Great to Suck at Something by : Karen Rinaldi

Download or read book It's Great to Suck at Something written by Karen Rinaldi and published by Atria Books. This book was released on 2019-05-07 with total page 256 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal. What if the secret to resilience and joy is the one thing we’ve been taught to avoid? When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. As a sh*tty surfer and all-around-imperfect human Karen Rinaldi explains in this eye-opening book, we live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over play. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. But we’re all being had. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection. We judge others on stuff we can’t even begin to master, and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. Worse, we’re not improving on what really matters. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something reveals that the key to a richer, more fulfilling life is finding something to suck at. Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport she’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. She draws from sources as diverse as Anthony Bourdain and surfing luminary Jaimal Yogis, Thich Nhat Hanh, and Jean-Paul Sartre, among many others, and explains the marvelous things that happen to our mammalian brains when we try something new, all to discover what she’s learned firsthand: it is great to suck at something. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, (It’s Great to) Suck at Something is an invitation to embrace our shortcomings as the very best of who we are and to open ourselves up to adventure, where we may not find what we thought we were looking for, but something way more important.

Waking Up in the Sea

Author : Derek Dunfee
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780578905457
Total Pages : pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (54 download)

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Book Synopsis Waking Up in the Sea by : Derek Dunfee

Download or read book Waking Up in the Sea written by Derek Dunfee and published by . This book was released on 2021-04-13 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: WAKING UP IN THE SEABy Derek DunfeeFormat: HardcoverTrim Size: 8.5 x 11308pgs.Professional big wave surfer/ Photographer/ AuthorI go into detail about surfing and chasing big waves around the world, I also open up about how the concussions and trauma I suffered from big wave surfing impacts me everyday. You'll have a better understanding of why I don't surf big waves any more. I've never told this particular story and I'm excited to share.

Surfing and the Philosophy of Sport

Author : Daniel Brennan
Publisher : Rowman & Littlefield
ISBN 13 : 1793640793
Total Pages : 197 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (936 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing and the Philosophy of Sport by : Daniel Brennan

Download or read book Surfing and the Philosophy of Sport written by Daniel Brennan and published by Rowman & Littlefield. This book was released on 2021-02-03 with total page 197 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing and the Philosophy of Sport uses the insights gained through an analysis of the sport of surfing to explore key questions and discourses within the philosophy of sport. As surfing has been practiced dynamically, since its beginnings as a traditional Polynesian pursuit to its current status as a counter-culture lifestyle and also a highly professionalized and commercialized sport that will be included in the Olympic Games, it presents a unique phenomenon from which to reconsider questions about the nature of sport and its role in a flourishing life and society. Daniel Brennan examines foundational issues about defining sport, sport's role in conceptualizing the good life, the aesthetic nature of sport, the place of technology in sport, the principles of Olympism and surfing’s embodiment of them, and issues of institutionalized sexism in sport and the effect that might have on athletic performance.

Surfing with Sartre

Author : Aaron James
Publisher : Anchor
ISBN 13 : 0385540744
Total Pages : 342 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (855 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing with Sartre by : Aaron James

Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.

Surfing and the Meaning of Life

Author : Ben Marcus
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781610606851
Total Pages : 108 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (68 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing and the Meaning of Life by : Ben Marcus

Download or read book Surfing and the Meaning of Life written by Ben Marcus and published by . This book was released on with total page 108 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole style-even a philosophy-of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life-or at least an enjoyable read. With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush. The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Let's Go Hawaii 4th Edition

Author : Let's Go Inc.
Publisher : Macmillan
ISBN 13 : 9780312360900
Total Pages : 464 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (69 download)

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Book Synopsis Let's Go Hawaii 4th Edition by : Let's Go Inc.

Download or read book Let's Go Hawaii 4th Edition written by Let's Go Inc. and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 2006-11-28 with total page 464 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Hawaii has been billed as the American tropical paradise since the 1950s. The beauty of the trails, verdant wilderness, and cliffs of Kauai, the oldest and arguably most majestic island is unrivalled. Compiled by students, this guide provides insider tips and information for the socially conscious traveller.

The Sociology of Sports

Author : Tim Delaney
Publisher : McFarland
ISBN 13 : 1476682372
Total Pages : 491 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (766 download)

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Book Synopsis The Sociology of Sports by : Tim Delaney

Download or read book The Sociology of Sports written by Tim Delaney and published by McFarland. This book was released on 2021-08-17 with total page 491 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This third edition takes a fresh approach to the study of sport, presenting key concepts such as socialization, race, ethnicity, gender, economics, religion, politics, deviance, violence, school sports and sportsmanship. While providing a critical examination of athletics, this text also highlights many of sports' positive features. This new edition includes significantly updated statistics, data and information along with updated popular culture references and real-world examples. Newly explored is the impact of several major world events that have left lasting effects on the sports realm, including a global pandemic (SARS-CoV-2, or Covid-19) and social movements like Black Lives Matter and Me Too. Another new topic is the "pay for play" movement, wherein college athletes demanded greater compensation and, at the very least, the right to profit from their own names, images and likenesses.

Tapping the Source

Author : Kem Nunn
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1451645554
Total Pages : 322 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (516 download)

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Book Synopsis Tapping the Source by : Kem Nunn

Download or read book Tapping the Source written by Kem Nunn and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2012-06-19 with total page 322 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: NATIONAL BOOK AWARD FINALIST Kem Nunn’s “surf noir” classic is a thrilling plunge into the seedy underbelly of a Southern California beach town—the inspiration for the film Point Break. People go to Huntington Beach in search of the endless parties, the ultimate highs, and the perfect waves. Ike Tucker has come to look for his missing sister and for the three men who may have murdered her. In that place of gilded surfers and sun-bleached blonds, Ike’s search takes him on a journey through a twisted world of crazed Vietnam vets, sadistic surfers, drug dealers, and mysterious seducers. He looks into the shadows and finds parties that drift toward pointless violence, joyless vacations, and highs you may never come down from...and a sea of old hatreds and dreams gone bad. And if he’s not careful, his is a journey from which he will never return.

Surfing

Author : Ben Marcus
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 0760344515
Total Pages : 210 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (63 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing by : Ben Marcus

Download or read book Surfing written by Ben Marcus and published by . This book was released on 2013-03-05 with total page 210 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: First published as Surfing USA! in 2005.

Let's Go Hawaii 5th Edition

Author : Let's Go Inc.
Publisher : Macmillan
ISBN 13 : 9780312385798
Total Pages : 452 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (857 download)

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Book Synopsis Let's Go Hawaii 5th Edition by : Let's Go Inc.

Download or read book Let's Go Hawaii 5th Edition written by Let's Go Inc. and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 2008-11-25 with total page 452 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Packed with travel information, including more listings, deals, and insider tips: CANDID LISTINGS of hundreds of places to eat, sleep, and surf like a local RELIABLE MAPS and directions to help you navigate the islands Rewarding VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES in ecological and cultural conservation STUDY ABROAD to learn about volcanology, indigenous languages, and exotic species INSIDER TIPS on saving money and finding aloha EXTENSIVE BEACH COVERAGE, from the sickest surf spots to the most breathtaking sunsets HIDDEN TREASURES, from roadside shave ice stands to deserted beaches

Wonder

Author : Frank C. Keil
Publisher : MIT Press
ISBN 13 : 0262046490
Total Pages : 333 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (62 download)

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Book Synopsis Wonder by : Frank C. Keil

Download or read book Wonder written by Frank C. Keil and published by MIT Press. This book was released on 2022-03-01 with total page 333 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: How we can all be lifelong wonderers: restoring the sense of joy in discovery we felt as children. From an early age, children pepper adults with questions that ask why and how: Why do balloons float? How do plants grow from seeds? Why do birds have feathers? Young children have a powerful drive to learn about their world, wanting to know not just what something is but also how it got to be that way and how it works. Most adults, on the other hand, have little curiosity about whys and hows; we might unlock a door, for example, or boil an egg, with no idea of what happens to make such a thing possible. How can grown-ups recapture a child’s sense of wonder at the world? In this book, Frank Keil describes the cognitive dispositions that set children on their paths of discovery and explains how we can all become lifelong wonderers. Keil describes recent research on children’s minds that reveals an extraordinary set of emerging abilities that underpin their joy of discovery—their need to learn not just the facts but the underlying causal patterns at the very heart of science. This glorious sense of wonder, however, is stifled, beginning in elementary school. Later, with little interest in causal mechanisms, and motivated by intellectual blind spots, as adults we become vulnerable to misinformation and manipulation—ready to believe things that aren’t true. Of course, the polymaths among us have retained their sense of wonder, and Keil explains the habits of mind and ways of wondering that allow them—and can enable us—to experience the joy of asking why and how.

Cocaine + Surfing

Author : Chas Smith
Publisher : Rare Bird Books
ISBN 13 : 9781644280331
Total Pages : 188 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (83 download)

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Book Synopsis Cocaine + Surfing by : Chas Smith

Download or read book Cocaine + Surfing written by Chas Smith and published by Rare Bird Books. This book was released on 2019-12-11 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

Empire in Waves

Author : Scott Laderman
Publisher : Univ of California Press
ISBN 13 : 0520958047
Total Pages : 251 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (29 download)

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Book Synopsis Empire in Waves by : Scott Laderman

Download or read book Empire in Waves written by Scott Laderman and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2014-01-18 with total page 251 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing today evokes many things: thundering waves, warm beaches, bikinis and lifeguards, and carefree pleasure. But is the story of surfing really as simple as popular culture suggests? In this first international political history of the sport, Scott Laderman shows that while wave riding is indeed capable of stimulating tremendous pleasure, its globalization went hand in hand with the blood and repression of the long twentieth century. Emerging as an imperial instrument in post-annexation Hawaii, spawning a form of tourism that conquered the littoral Third World, tracing the struggle against South African apartheid, and employed as a diplomatic weapon in America's Cold War arsenal, the saga of modern surfing is only partially captured by Gidget, the Beach Boys, and the film Blue Crush. From nineteenth-century American empire-building in the Pacific to the low-wage labor of the surf industry today, Laderman argues that surfing in fact closely mirrored American foreign relations. Yet despite its less-than-golden past, the sport continues to captivate people worldwide. Whether in El Salvador or Indonesia or points between, the modern history of this cherished pastime is hardly an uncomplicated story of beachside bliss. Sometimes messy, occasionally contentious, but never dull, surfing offers us a whole new way of viewing our globalized world.

The Surfing Handbook

Author : Ben Marcus
Publisher : MVP Books
ISBN 13 : 1610600991
Total Pages : 208 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (16 download)

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Book Synopsis The Surfing Handbook by : Ben Marcus

Download or read book The Surfing Handbook written by Ben Marcus and published by MVP Books. This book was released on 2010-06-13 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Whether you’re a beginner trying to get started or an experienced surfer looking to take it to the next level, The Surfing Handbook gives you the tips you need to maximize your performance on the water, with guidance on training and conditioning, technique and style, safety and etiquette, and gear. Written by veteran pro surfing journalist Ben Marcus, this guide is illustrated with instructional photos and drawings, providing step-by-step instructions, background history—as well as stories and tips from legendary surfers and teachers—making this an informative and entertaining guide that will help you to master the waves.

Cold New World

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Modern Library
ISBN 13 : 0307766144
Total Pages : 449 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (77 download)

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Book Synopsis Cold New World by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Cold New World written by William Finnegan and published by Modern Library. This book was released on 2010-09-29 with total page 449 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days, this narrative nonfiction classic documents the rising inequality and cultural alienation that presaged the crises of today. “A status report on the American Dream [that] gets its power [from] the unpredictable, rich specifics of people’s lives.”—Time “[William] Finnegan’s real achievement is to attach identities to the steady stream of faceless statistics that tell us America’s social problems are more serious than we want to believe.”—The Washington Post A fifteen-year-old drug dealer in blighted New Haven, Connecticut; a sleepy Texas town transformed by crack; Mexican American teenagers in Washington State, unable to relate to their immigrant parents and trying to find an identity in gangs; jobless young white supremacists in a downwardly mobile L.A. suburb. William Finnegan spent years embedded with families in four communities across the country to become an intimate observer of the lives he reveals in Cold New World. What emerges from these beautifully rendered portraits is a prescient and compassionate book that never loses sight of its subjects’ humanity. A NEW YORK TIMES NOTABLE BOOK • A LOS ANGELES TIMES BEST NONFICTION SELECTION Praise for Cold New World “Unlike most journalists who drop in for a quick interview and fly back out again, Finnegan spent many weeks with families in each community over a period of several years, enough time to distinguish between the kind of short-term problems that can beset anyone and the longer-term systemic poverty and social disintegration that can pound an entire generation into a groove of despair.”—Los Angeles Times Book Review “The most remarkable of William Finnegan’s many literary gifts is his compassion. Not the fact of it, which we have a right to expect from any personal reporting about the oppressed, but its coolness, its clarity, its ductile strength. . . . Finnegan writes like a dream. His prose is unfailingly lucid, graceful, and specific, his characterization effortless, and the pull of his narrative pure seduction.”—The Village Voice “Four astonishingly intimate and evocative portraits. . . . All of these stories are vividly, honestly and compassionately told. . . . While Cold New World may make us look in new ways at our young people, perhaps its real goal is to make us look at ourselves.”—The Philadelphia Inquirer