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On The Breaking Of Water Waves Of Finite Amplitude On A Sloping Beach
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Book Synopsis On the Breaking of Water Waves of Finite Amplitude on a Sloping Beach by : Harvey Philip Greenspan
Download or read book On the Breaking of Water Waves of Finite Amplitude on a Sloping Beach written by Harvey Philip Greenspan and published by . This book was released on 1957 with total page 32 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In recent paper Carrier + Greenspan showed that, within the framework of the non-linear shallow-water theory, there exist waves which do not break as they climb a sloping beach. The formation of a shock or bore is dependent on a variety of factors (wave shape, particle velocity) and, as yet, no general criteria for breaking have been found. Waves are considered which propagate shoreward into quiescent water; it is shown that any compressive wave (a wave of positive amplitude) which has a non-zero slope at the wave-front eventually breaks before reaching the coastline. In fact, an explicit relation is obtained between the initial conditions and the position where breaking occurs. (Author).
Book Synopsis WATER WAVES OF FINITE AMPLITUDE ON A SLOPING BEACH. by : G. F. CARRIER
Download or read book WATER WAVES OF FINITE AMPLITUDE ON A SLOPING BEACH. written by G. F. CARRIER and published by . This book was released on 1958 with total page 11 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves by : Chiang C. Mei
Download or read book The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1989 with total page 770 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Book Synopsis Waves of Finite Amplitude in Still Water by : Kok Whye Chay
Download or read book Waves of Finite Amplitude in Still Water written by Kok Whye Chay and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves: Linear aspects by : Chiang C. Mei
Download or read book Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves: Linear aspects written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2005 with total page 540 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. It is intended for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves.
Book Synopsis Breaking Wave Criterion on a Sloping Beach by : Richard Markley Smith
Download or read book Breaking Wave Criterion on a Sloping Beach written by Richard Markley Smith and published by . This book was released on 1976 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The various wave theories, theoretical breaking criteria and derived breaking criteria are reviewed for shallow water waves. To account for the non-linear hydrodynamics present in a shallow water wave breaking on a beach with a sloping bottom, the perturbation technique of Iwagaki and Sakai is used to derive a second order expression for the horizontal water particle velocity for long waves. The kinematic breaking criterion is applied to the derived c(2) and u(2) values to establish breaking. The results indicate that the ratios of eta(b)/L(o) and h(b)/H(o) provide reliable breaking criteria. Each of the parameters is dependent only upon beach slope and h(o)/L(o). Theoretically derived values for h(b)/H(o) compare favorably with field measurements and offer significant improvement over previous theory. Predicted breaking depths are less than those present in experimental data, suggesting extension to higher orders may be warranted. (Author).
Book Synopsis Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (In 2 Volumes) by : Chiang C Mei
Download or read book Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (In 2 Volumes) written by Chiang C Mei and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 2018-03-15 with total page 1240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
Book Synopsis Water Wave Run-up on a Beach, II by : Joseph Bishop Keller
Download or read book Water Wave Run-up on a Beach, II written by Joseph Bishop Keller and published by . This book was released on 1965 with total page 92 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Wave Breaking written by Carlos M. Lemos and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-03-13 with total page 205 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this monograph, a finite difference algorithm for study- ing two dimensional wave breaking in the vertical plane is developed. The essential feature of this algorithm is the combination of the Volume-of-Fluid (VOF) technique for arbi- trary free surfaces and the k-E turbulence model. This me- thodology allows a self-contained study for wave transforma- tion processes in shallow water before, during and after breaking. This capability is illustrated in several calcula- tions. This book will be of interest for final year graduates, postgraduates and researchers working in the fields of tur- bulence modelling, wave hydrodynamics, coastal engineering, and oceanography of coastal regions.
Book Synopsis Water Waves: The Mathematical Theory with Applications by : James Johnston Stoker
Download or read book Water Waves: The Mathematical Theory with Applications written by James Johnston Stoker and published by Courier Dover Publications. This book was released on 2019-04-17 with total page 593 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: First published in 1957, this is a classic monograph in the area of applied mathematics. It offers a connected account of the mathematical theory of wave motion in a liquid with a free surface and subjected to gravitational and other forces, together with applications to a wide variety of concrete physical problems. A never-surpassed text, it remains of permanent value to a wide range of scientists and engineers concerned with problems in fluid mechanics. The four-part treatment begins with a presentation of the derivation of the basic hydrodynamic theory for non-viscous incompressible fluids and a description of the two principal approximate theories that form the basis for the rest of the book. The second section centers on the approximate theory that results from small-amplitude wave motions. A consideration of problems involving waves in shallow water follows, and the text concludes with a selection of problems solved in terms of the exact theory. Despite the diversity of its topics, this text offers a unified, readable, and largely self-contained treatment.
Download or read book Applied Mechanics Reviews written by and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 636 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Developments in Offshore Engineering: Wave Phenomena and Offshore Topics by : John B. Herbich
Download or read book Developments in Offshore Engineering: Wave Phenomena and Offshore Topics written by John B. Herbich and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 1998-12-18 with total page 586 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Drawing from experts and top researchers from around the world, this book presents current developments in a variety of areas that impact offshore and ocean engineering.
Book Synopsis Coastal Engineering 2002: Solving Coastal Conundrums - Proceedings Of The 28th International Conference (In 3 Vols) by : Jane Mckee Smith
Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2002: Solving Coastal Conundrums - Proceedings Of The 28th International Conference (In 3 Vols) written by Jane Mckee Smith and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2003-03-14 with total page 4007 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book contains more than 300 papers presented at the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, held in Cardiff, Wales, in July 2002. It is divided into five parts: coastal waves; nearshore currents, swash, and long waves; coastal structures; sediment transport; and coastal morphology, beach nourishment, and coastal management. The papers cover a broad range of topics, including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. Coastal Engineering 2002 provides engineers, scientists, and planners with state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.
Book Synopsis Developments in Offshore Engineering by : John B. Herbich
Download or read book Developments in Offshore Engineering written by John B. Herbich and published by Gulf Professional Publishing. This book was released on 1999 with total page 588 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Drawing from experts and top researchers from around the world, this book presents current developments in a variety of areas that impact offshore and ocean engineering.
Download or read book Naval Research Reviews written by and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications by : Robert G. Dean
Download or read book Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications written by Robert G. Dean and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-03-25 with total page 498 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Text on coastal engineering and oceanography covering theory and applications intended to mitigate shoreline erosion.
Book Synopsis Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models by : Ge Wei
Download or read book Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models written by Ge Wei and published by . This book was released on 1997 with total page 234 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A new set of time-dependent Boussinesq equations is derived to simulate nonlinear long wave propagation in coastal regions. Following the approaches by Nwogu and later by Chen and Liu, the velocity (or velocity potential) at a certain water depth corresponding to the optimum linear dispersion property is used as a dependent variable. Therefore, the resulting equations are valid in intermediate water depth as well as for highly nonlinear waves. Coefficients for second order bound waves and the third order Schrodinger equation are derived and compared with exact solutions. A numerical model using a combination of second and fourth order schemes to discretize equation terms is developed for obtaining solutions to the equations. A fourth order predictor-corrector scheme is employed for time stepping and the first order derivative terms are finite differenced to fourth order accuracy, making the truncation errors smaller than the dispersive terms in the equations. Linear stability analysis is performed to determine the corresponding numerical stability range for the model. To avoid the problem of wave reflection from the conventional incident boundary condition, internal wave generation by source function is employed for the present model. Numerical filtering is applied at specified time steps in the model to eliminate short waves (about 2 to 5 times of the grid size) which are generated by the nonlinear interaction of long waves. To simulate the wave breaking process, additional terms for artificial eddy viscosity are included in the model equations to dissipate wave energy. The dissipation terms are activated when the horizontal gradient of the horizontal velocity exceeds the specified breaking criteria. Some of the existing models for simulating the process of wave runup are reviewed and we attempt to incorporate the present model to simulate the process by maintaining a thin layer of water over the physically dry grids.
