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Legendary Surfers Volume 3 The 1930s
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Book Synopsis LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 3: The 1930s by : Malcolm Gault-Williams
Download or read book LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 3: The 1930s written by Malcolm Gault-Williams and published by Lulu.com. This book was released on 2012-12-12 with total page 267 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 3: 1930s" details the surf world of the 1930s, including California, Florida, Hawaii, Australia and Britain. This is not a coffee table book. It is specifically written for surfers who want to know the details of the heritage we are blessed to share, as told by those who lived it.
Download or read book Waikiki Dreams written by Patrick Moser and published by University of Illinois Press. This book was released on 2024-06-11 with total page 226 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Despite a genuine admiration for Native Hawaiian culture, white Californians of the 1930s ignored authentic relationships with Native Hawaiians. Surfing became a central part of what emerged instead: a beach culture of dressing, dancing, and acting like an Indigenous people whites idealized. Patrick Moser uses surfing to open a door on the cultural appropriation practiced by Depression-era Californians against a backdrop of settler colonialism and white nationalism. Recreating the imagined leisure and romance of life in Waikīkī attracted people buffeted by economic crisis and dislocation. California-manufactured objects like surfboards became a physical manifestation of a dream that, for all its charms, emerged from a white impulse to both remove and replace Indigenous peoples. Moser traces the rise of beach culture through the lives of trendsetters Tom Blake, John “Doc” Ball, Preston “Pete” Peterson, Mary Ann Hawkins, and Lorrin “Whitey” Harrison while also delving into California’s control over images of Native Hawaiians via movies, tourism, and the surfboard industry. Compelling and innovative, Waikīkī Dreams opens up the origins of a defining California subculture.
Book Synopsis Warm Winds and Following Seas: Reflections of a Lifeguard in Paradise by : Mike Brousard
Download or read book Warm Winds and Following Seas: Reflections of a Lifeguard in Paradise written by Mike Brousard and published by Lulu.com. This book was released on 2018-08-16 with total page 478 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ocean Lifeguards make tens of thousands of rescues every year on the fabled, crowded beaches of Southern California. "Warm Winds and Following Seas: Reflections of a Lifeguard in Paradise" tells their stories, recounts their challenges and rescues, and illustrates the pressures of a misunderstood, high profile and physically difficult profession. From the rite of passage of Lifeguard Training, to the grit and grind of surf rescues and piloting rescue boats in big waves, to life-threatening saves in the icy waters of Northern California, this journey into the world of Ocean Lifeguards offers a fresh perspective on open water lifesaving and these unsung heroes of the coastline.
Download or read book Great Escaper written by Louise Williams and published by Amberley Publishing Limited. This book was released on 2015-11-15 with total page 363 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: He survived the air war and broke out of Germany’s toughest POW camp. Now his fate lies in Hitler’s hands.
Book Synopsis Legendary Surfers by : Malcolm Gault-Williams
Download or read book Legendary Surfers written by Malcolm Gault-Williams and published by . This book was released on 2005 with total page 362 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The first volume covers the period of time between surfing's origins after 2,500 B.C. to the year 1910 A.D. and through Duke Kahanamoku's life. The second volume covers the period 1910 through 1929 and the entire life of twentieth century pioneer surfer and innovator Tom Blake.
Book Synopsis The History of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw
Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2010-09 with total page 498 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.
Book Synopsis Men who Ride Mountains by : Peter L. Dixon
Download or read book Men who Ride Mountains written by Peter L. Dixon and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 174 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Morning Glass written by Mike Doyle and published by Picacho. This book was released on 1992-01-01 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Eccentric characters shuffle and strut in and out of Doyle's tale and breathe life into this unusual history of surfing." - Honolulu Star Bulletin "Full of humor and inside stories that capture the youthful joy and innocence of the formative years of the California beach culture." - San Diego Union-Tribune "Morning Glass is a thoughtful portrait of a man enthralled with the ocean." - Orange County Register "Mike has an incredible story to tell and every surfer who believes surfing is more than just a hobby must read it.” - Surfing Magazine "He came from a period when surf heroes were individuals, each with a distinct personality and character.... I suspect his revelations may ruffle a few feathers." - Steve Pezman, Surfer's Journal
Book Synopsis Surfing in Hawai'i by : Timothy Tovar DeLaVega
Download or read book Surfing in Hawai'i written by Timothy Tovar DeLaVega and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2011 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When the early European explorers traversed the globe, their journals held numerous accounts of Hawaiians enjoying surfing. Since Europeans of that era were not accustomed to swimming in their own cold waters, it must have seemed like a dream to watch naked native Hawaiians riding the waves of a turbulent sea. Nowhere in the ancient world was surfing as ingrained into the culture as on the islands of Hawai'i. He'e nalu (wave sliding) was the national sport and enjoyed by all. When a swell was up, whole villages were deserted as everyone fled to the beach to test their surfing skills. Legends of famous surf riders were retold in mele (song/chant), and fortunes could be decided on the outcome of a surfing contest. From these shores, modern surfing was born, along with the iconic romantic images of bronzed surfers, grass shacks, and hula.
Book Synopsis Men who Ride Mountains by : Peter L. Dixon
Download or read book Men who Ride Mountains written by Peter L. Dixon and published by Globe Pequot. This book was released on 2001 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this exuberant celebration of modern surfing, a surf journalist shares thefacts, lore, and legend of his beloved sport. Photos throughout.
Book Synopsis Surfing Long Beach Island by : Caroline Unger
Download or read book Surfing Long Beach Island written by Caroline Unger and published by Xlibris Corporation. This book was released on 2003-07-15 with total page 211 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is a must read for all East Coast surfers who may have felt at sometime that they should apologize for where they are from. The stories and pictures in this book are sure to make the East Coast surfer proud, while sharing a universal story line with surfers all around the world. These stories could very well have taken place in Hawaii or California but, they didnt. The major theme is an eighteen-mile barrier island off the New Jersey coastline known as Long Beach Island (LBI). Every individual in this book is somehow connected to the island. Through a series of short stories from the 1930s to the 21st Century, you will be moved by what these individuals have accomplished in the surfing community as well as the real world. Turn the pages to find out who is an innovator of snowboard technology; a photo editor for Surfer magazine; writer/producer of a Nickelodeon cartoon; and an award recipient from the president of the United States. Meet local surfing legends: Wimpy, Tinker, and Huckleberry. Find out what surfing pioneers did in the days before surfing wetsuits and wax. Travel around the world and through time for: Surfing in Vietnam during the Vietnam War; Running a surf hostile in Puerto Rico in the 1990s; Capturing storm surf on film for the last twenty years from all over the globe. Learn what unique surfing product came to a local surfer in a dream and how the internationally known franchise - Ron Jon Surf Shop, got its start on LBI. Youre sure to enjoy the Why We Surf section with unedited material from our local surfers, ages fifteen to sixty-three. Hear about some of their most memorable surfing experiences and gain their deepest insights about this incredible sport and lifestyle. The book has over one hundred pictures from family collections, 60s surf magazines, and professional portfolios of some of the top surfing photographers. Surfing collectors will especially enjoy some of the vintage material. Surfing the Web will give you the links you need for everything from weather information to lodging on LBI. For those of you who are still learning about LBI, Local Breaks gives you the low-down about surfing conditions and even parking. There is something in Surfing LBI for surfers of every age and level of expertise. Its a feel good book that will leave you stoked every time you open it.
Book Synopsis Surfing on the Inside by : Mick Lawrence
Download or read book Surfing on the Inside written by Mick Lawrence and published by . This book was released on 2009-01-01 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The greatest surfers on earth talk about their lives and careers in this book: from ironman Laird Hamilton, seven-time world champion Kelly Slater, musician Jack Johnson, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Lisa Andersen - one hundred of the greatest surfers from around the world talk candidly about their life, career, and what it means to live to surf. Fact-filled, and with dramatic photographs of these surfers in action this book is certain to appeal to any surfer, or water sport enthusiast, and is full of rare photos and first-person accounts that only legendary surfer Duke Boyd could collect.
Book Synopsis Scratching the Horizon by : Izzy Paskowitz
Download or read book Scratching the Horizon written by Izzy Paskowitz and published by St. Martin's Press. This book was released on 2012-08-21 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Scratching the Horizon presents a bitchin' love letter to sand and sea, and a spirited inside account of life with the "first family" of American surfing. In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favor of intangible riches like health and good cheer . . . all the while careening along the world's coastlines in search of the perfect wave. In Scratching the Horizon, Izzy Paskowitz looks back at his unusual upbringing, and his lifelong passion for the sport that carries his family's stamp. As the fourth-oldest child in a family of inveterate surfers, rock stars, and beach bums, he is uniquely qualified to shine a light on a childhood that has come to symbolize the surfing credo, a reckless young adulthood that nearly cost him his sanity, and a maturing sense of self and purpose that allows him to lift others on the back of his experience. As the father of a son with autism and the founder of "Surfers Healing," a foundation devoted to expanding the horizons of children with autism through surfing, Paskowitz has found a way to connect the surreal aspects of his childhood to the harsh realities of adulthood, and he shares these discoveries in this wickedly entertaining and transforming memoir.
Download or read book Surfing Uncertainty written by Andy Clark and published by Oxford University Press, USA. This book was released on 2016 with total page 425 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This title brings together work on embodiment, action, and the predictive mind. At the core is the vision of human minds as prediction machines - devices that constantly try to stay one step ahead of the breaking waves of sensory stimulation, by actively predicting the incoming flow. In every situation we encounter, that complex prediction machinery is already buzzing, proactively trying to anticipate the sensory barrage. The book shows in detail how this strange but potent strategy of self-anticipation ushers perception, understanding, and imagination simultaneously onto the cognitive stage.
Book Synopsis Surfer of the Century by : Ellie Crowe
Download or read book Surfer of the Century written by Ellie Crowe and published by . This book was released on 2007 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "A brief biography of Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, five-time Olympic swimming champion from the early 1900s who is also considered worldwide as the 'father of modern surfing'"--Provided by publisher.
Book Synopsis First We Surf, Then We Eat by : Jim Kempton
Download or read book First We Surf, Then We Eat written by Jim Kempton and published by Turner Publishing Company. This book was released on 2018-08-10 with total page 500 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Jim Kempton has spent his life traveling and surfing the world, along the way learning to cook the world's best beach-loving dishes. Now he's sharing his vividly colorful, richly flavorful, and vibrantly healthful collection of more than 90 recipes, along with stories of the best waves, markets, restaurants, adventures, and misadventures that he's experienced, from Australia to Hawaii, the Basque Country to Indonesia, California to Mexico. First We Surf, Then We Eat features a foreword by The Surfer's Journal publisher Steve Pezman, a preface by famed surfer/chef Raphael Lunetta, and photography by Bill Schildge, Jeff Divine, Tom Servais, and Art Brewer.
Book Synopsis The History of Surfing by : Nat Young
Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Nat Young and published by HP Books. This book was released on 1987 with total page 204 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
