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Author : Peter Kreeft
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781587313776
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (137 download)
Download or read book I Surf, Therefore I Am written by Peter Kreeft and published by . This book was released on 2008 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Author : Peter Kreeft
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 192 pages
Book Rating : 4.F/5 ( download)
Download or read book If Einstein Had Been a Surfer written by Peter Kreeft and published by . This book was released on 2009 with total page 192 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Science, philosophy and poetry, myth and mysticism are three modes of consciousness that are radically different today. Almost no one tries to connect them in a synthesis in which each maintains its own identity yet each contributes to a greater whole that no one of them could attain alone. This book dares to try and find a "Theory of Everything"--From back cover.
Author : Yvon Chouinard
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 1101201223
Total Pages : 284 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (12 download)
Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 284 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now. From the Trade Paperback edition.
Author : Fiona Capp
Publisher : Allen & Unwin
ISBN 13 : 9781741144734
Total Pages : 304 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (447 download)
Download or read book That Oceanic Feeling written by Fiona Capp and published by Allen & Unwin. This book was released on 2005 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A captivating memoir that explores the lure of the sea and the author's love affair with surfing.
Author : Aaron James
Publisher : Anchor
ISBN 13 : 0385540744
Total Pages : 352 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (855 download)
Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 352 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Author : David Rensin
Publisher : Harper Collins
ISBN 13 : 0061868167
Total Pages : 826 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (618 download)
Download or read book All for a Few Perfect Waves written by David Rensin and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 2009-03-17 with total page 826 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.
Author : Mami Wata
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984860410
Total Pages : 320 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)
Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.
Author : Kim Dwinell
Publisher : Top Shelf Productions
ISBN 13 : 1684069963
Total Pages : 116 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (84 download)
Download or read book The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean written by Kim Dwinell and published by Top Shelf Productions. This book was released on 2021-12-15 with total page 116 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The ocean is packed with plants, animals, water… and science! Ride the waves of knowledge with Sam and Jade as they explain all about the amazing wonders of the sea, and have a blast doing it. Have you ever wondered why the ocean has waves? Why the tide goes in and out? And how can coral be alive when it looks like a rock? From the pages of the beloved graphic novel series, join the Surfside Girls, Sam and Jade, for a great investigation into everything that makes the ocean so cool: from moon cycles and king tides, to why a wave breaks, to otters in kelp forests… with plenty of fun and jokes along the way. Plus, there’s a whole step-by-step chapter on how to surf! The Science of Surfing is the coolest way to take a beach vacation and learn at the same time.
Author : Stephan Vanfleteren
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9789492677365
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (773 download)
Download or read book Surf Tribe written by Stephan Vanfleteren and published by . This book was released on 2018 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: - An incomparable new photo book about the international surf culture by Stephan Vanfleteren- Showcases captivating portraits of some of the world's surf iconsWith Surf Tribe, photographer Stephan Vanfleteren shows that there is far more to surf culture than just sport and competition. Surfing is also about a deep admiration and respect for the ocean, as well as the feeling of insignificance when confronted with the forces of nature. Surfers use the waves for fun, but also to forget and to battle, both with others and with themselves. Vanfleteren looks beyond the traditional borders of the United States and Australia and searches the globe for people who live in places where sea and land meet. He documents a fluid community, with nature as its sole leader. He has sought out young talent, living icons, and old legends, both competitive and free surfers. The photographs here are serene black and white portraits in Vanfleteren's well-known, haunting style; as always, he reaches below the surface and goes to the core of his subjects. Included, amongst many others, are Kelly Slater, Gerry Lopez, John Florence, Mickey Munoz, Filipe Toledo and Stephanie Gilmore. Surfer, journalist, and actor Gerry Lopez has contributed the Foreword. Surf Tribe has been exhibited in Knokke-Heist (Belgium), Kunsthal Rotterdam (Netherlands), Gallery Kahmann Amsterdam (Netherlands). The next exhibition will be in June 2019 in France. If you are interested in the stories behind the book, go to: www.surftribe.be
Author : Susan Casey
Publisher : Anchor Canada
ISBN 13 : 0385666683
Total Pages : 434 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (856 download)
Download or read book The Wave written by Susan Casey and published by Anchor Canada. This book was released on 2011-05-31 with total page 434 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.
Author : Morris Robin
Publisher : Robin Morris
ISBN 13 : 0620499230
Total Pages : 82 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (24 download)
Download or read book Plane Shaping written by Morris Robin and published by Robin Morris. This book was released on 2005-03-03 with total page 82 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book describes in detail 'How To Make A Surfboard'. It covers all the pitfalls, secrets and tools required. Includes from basic shaping to laminating, sprays, sanding and finishing. In fact it covers everything. With this book you will make a surfboard that will make you proud...!
Author : Shane Sebastian
Publisher : Higherlife Development Service
ISBN 13 : 9781732502680
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (26 download)
Download or read book Dropping In written by Shane Sebastian and published by Higherlife Development Service. This book was released on 2019-05 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Dropping In -Experience the Life You Were Meant to Live Do you live for thrill or for fear? If somewhere in the depth of your soul you long for more out of life than just playing it safe, getting by - existing, then this book is for you. Despite what you may think, this book is not about surfing, well not primarily. It's about living the kind of exhilarating, thrilling, almost too-good-to-be-believed kind of life that's actually possible. What surfing represents, and many surfers have experienced, is a feeling called "stoke." It's that happiness, that thrill and pure joy that comes when you catch and ride that perfect wave. Believe it or not, God intends for you to have this kind of life. And yet so often we settle for much less. Dropping In will help you open your heart, mind, and soul to the possibility of living differently. If standing on the shore of life has lost its appeal and you are ready to experience more, then you're ready to drop in and catch the wave of God's divine flow in your life that will keep you smiling!
Author : Don Winslow
Publisher : Vintage Crime/Black Lizard
ISBN 13 : 0307793796
Total Pages : 322 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (77 download)
Download or read book Dawn Patrol written by Don Winslow and published by Vintage Crime/Black Lizard. This book was released on 2011-05-18 with total page 322 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Savages (now an Oliver Stone film). As cool as its California surfer heroes, Don Winslow delivers a high velocity, darkly comic, and totally righteous crime novel. Every morning Boone Daniels catches waves with the other members of The Dawn Patrol: four men and one woman as single-minded about surfing as he is. Or nearly. They have "real j-o-b-s"; Boone, however, works as a PI just enough to keep himself afloat. But Boone's most recent gig-investigating an insurance scam—has unexpectedly led him to a ghost from his past. And while he may have to miss the biggest swell of his surfing career, this job is about to give him a wilder ride than anything he's ever encountered. Filled with killer waves and a coast line to break your heart, The Dawn Patrol will leave you gasping for air.
Author : Peter Kreeft
Publisher : St Augustine PressInc
ISBN 13 : 9781587315909
Total Pages : 374 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (159 download)
Download or read book An Ocean Full of Angels written by Peter Kreeft and published by St Augustine PressInc. This book was released on 2011 with total page 374 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "On the connections between Jesus Christ, Muhammad, dead Vikings, sassy Black feminists, Dutch Calvinist seminarians, large mother substitues, armless nature mystics, Caribbean rubber dancers, three popes in one year, Cortez, Romeo and Juliet, the wandering Jew, the sea serpent, Our Lady of Guadalupe, the demon Hurricano, Islam in the art of body surfing, the universal fate wave theory, the Palestinian intifada, the fatal beauty of the sea, dreams of Jungian archetypes, the dooms of the Boston Red Sox, abortion wars, the great blizzard of '78, the wisdom of the "handicapped," the ecumenical jihad, the psychology of suicide, the disguises of angels, and the end of the world."
Author : Chas Smith
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781644280751
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (87 download)
Download or read book Reports from Hell written by Chas Smith and published by . This book was released on 2020 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction and Cocaine + Surfing A gonzo ride through the Middle East as only Chas Smith, the award-winning author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell and Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, could provide. Follow Smith and his misfit band of merrymakers as they search for the true origins of Al Qaeda and endeavor to ride the unsurfed waves of Yemen all while exploring the slim opportunities for fun in the margins of our global war on terror and at what cost--even if it means eventual kidnapping by Hezbollah.
Author : Diane Cardwell
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin
ISBN 13 : 0358067782
Total Pages : 275 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (58 download)
Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.
Author : Bob Greene
Publisher : Macmillan
ISBN 13 : 1429938005
Total Pages : 352 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (299 download)
Download or read book When We Get to Surf City written by Bob Greene and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 2008-05-13 with total page 352 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In a dazzling and exhilarating display of narrative on-the-road reporting, award-winning journalist and New York Times bestselling author Bob Greene takes readers on an unforgettable American journey of music, memories, and universal longing. Running away to join the circus is a dream we're told to put away once we're no longer young. But, as Bob Greene writes, "just when in our lives we give up on capturing the freedom and bright mornings of our world when it was new, sometimes something happens to keep the sun high in the sky a while longer. Sometimes we find something we weren't even aware we were looking for." For fifteen years beginning in the 1990s, Greene stepped into a universe that, out in the country every summer night, is hiding in plain sight: the touring world of the great early rock bands who gave America the car-radio and jukebox music it still loves best. Singing backup with the legendary Jan and Dean as they endlessly crisscross the nation, Greene takes us to football stadiums and minor-league ballparks, to no-name ice cream stands and midnight diners, to back roads and carnival midways as he tells a riveting story of great fame and lingering sorrow, of unexpected friendship and lasting dreams, of the things that keep us going in the face of all the things that threaten to stop us. Striking chords of recognition and yearning, When We Get to Surf City glistens with cameos by the men and women with whom Greene traveled the United States on his deliriously unlikely journey, including Chuck Berry, Martha and the Vandellas, the Everly Brothers, Jerry Lee Lewis, the Beach Boys, the Monkees, the Kingsmen, James Brown, Lesley Gore, the Drifters, Little Eva, and the Coasters. All of them—not just the people on the stage, but the people in the audiences, too—are seeking their private versions of the mythical destination Jan and Dean came up with all those years ago: Surf City as the perfect, cloudless place we all believe is out there, if only we can find it. Hilarious and heartbreaking, moving and brilliant, this is the trip of a lifetime, a travelogue of the heart, accompanied by a thundering guitar chorus of Fender Stratocasters. It is a story destined to touch readers not just today, but for generations to come, as long as the music itself echoes.
