Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence

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Author :
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1474249787
Total Pages : 224 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (742 download)

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Book Synopsis Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence by : Elizabeth Currie

Download or read book Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence written by Elizabeth Currie and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2016-07-28 with total page 224 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Dress became a testing ground for masculine ideals in Renaissance Italy. With the establishment of the ducal regime in Florence in 1530, there was increasing debate about how to be a nobleman. Was fashionable clothing a sign of magnificence or a source of mockery? Was the graceful courtier virile or effeminate? How could a man dress for court without bankrupting himself? This book explores the whole story of clothing, from the tailor's workshop to spectacular court festivities, to show how the male nobility in one of Italy's main textile production centers used their appearances to project social, sexual, and professional identities. Sixteenth-century male fashion is often associated with swagger and ostentation but this book shows that Florentine clothing reflected manhood at a much deeper level, communicating a very Italian spectrum of male virtues and vices, from honor, courage, and restraint to luxury and excess. Situating dress at the heart of identity formation, Currie traces these codes through an array of sources, including unpublished archival records, surviving garments, portraiture, poetry, and personal correspondence between the Medici and their courtiers. Addressing important themes such as gender, politics, and consumption, Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence sheds fresh light on the sartorial culture of the Florentine court and Italy as a whole.

Dressing Renaissance Florence

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Author :
Publisher : JHU Press
ISBN 13 : 1421403757
Total Pages : 384 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (214 download)

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Book Synopsis Dressing Renaissance Florence by : Carole Collier Frick

Download or read book Dressing Renaissance Florence written by Carole Collier Frick and published by JHU Press. This book was released on 2005-08-26 with total page 384 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: As portraits, private diaries, and estate inventories make clear, elite families of the Italian Renaissance were obsessed with fashion, investing as much as forty percent of their fortunes on clothing. In fact, the most elaborate outfits of the period could cost more than a good-sized farm out in the Mugello. Yet despite its prominence in both daily life and the economy, clothing has been largely overlooked in the rich historiography of Renaissance Italy. In Dressing Renaissance Florence, however, Carole Collier Frick provides the first in-depth study of the Renaissance fashion industry, focusing on Florence, a city founded on cloth, a city of wool manufacturers, finishers, and merchants, of silk dyers, brocade weavers, pearl dealers, and goldsmiths. From the artisans who designed and assembled the outfits to the families who amassed fabulous wardrobes, Frick's wide-ranging and innovative interdisciplinary history explores the social and political implications of clothing in Renaissance Italy's most style-conscious city. Frick begins with a detailed account of the industry itself—its organization within the guild structure of the city, the specialized work done by male and female workers of differing social status, the materials used and their sources, and the garments and accessories produced. She then shows how the driving force behind the growth of the industry was the elite families of Florence, who, in order to maintain their social standing and family honor, made continuous purchases of clothing—whether for everyday use or special occasions—for their families and households. And she concludes with an analysis of the clothes themselves: what pieces made up an outfit; how outfits differed for men, women, and children; and what colors, fabrics, and design elements were popular. Further, and perhaps more basically, she asks how we know what we know about Renaissance fashion and looks to both Florence's sumptuary laws, which defined what could be worn on the streets, and the depiction of contemporary clothing in Florentine art for the answer. For Florence's elite, appearance and display were intimately bound up with self-identity. Dressing Renaissance Florence enables us to better understand the social and cultural milieu of Renaissance Italy.

Forbidden Friendships

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Publisher : Oxford University Press
ISBN 13 : 0195352688
Total Pages : 382 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (953 download)

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Book Synopsis Forbidden Friendships by : Michael Rocke

Download or read book Forbidden Friendships written by Michael Rocke and published by Oxford University Press. This book was released on 1998-03-05 with total page 382 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "This is a superb work of scholarship, impossible to overpraise.... It marks a milestone in the 20-year rise of gay and lesbian studies."--Martin Duberman, The Advocate The men of Renaissance Florence were so renowned for sodomy that "Florenzer" in German meant "sodomite." In the late fifteenth century, as many as one in two Florentine men had come to the attention of the authorities for sodomy by the time they were thirty. In 1432 The Office of the Night was created specifically to police sodomy in Florence. Indeed, nearly all Florentine males probably had some kind of same-sex experience as a part of their "normal" sexual life. Seventy years of denunciations, interrogations, and sentencings left an extraordinarily detailed record, which author Michael Rocke has used in his vivid depiction of this vibrant sexual culture in a world where these same-sex acts were not the deviant transgressions of a small minority, but an integral part of a normal masculine identity. Rocke roots this sexual activity in the broader context of Renaissance Florence, with its social networks of families, juvenile gangs, neighbors, patronage, workshops, and confraternities, and its busy political life from the early years of the Republic through the period of Lorenzo de' Medici, Savonarola, and the beginning of Medici princely rule. His richly detailed book paints a fascinating picture of Renaissance Florence and calls into question our modern conceptions of gender and sexual identity.

Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy

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Author :
Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 1134787103
Total Pages : 510 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (347 download)

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Book Synopsis Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy by : Eugenia Paulicelli

Download or read book Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy written by Eugenia Paulicelli and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2016-02-17 with total page 510 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The first comprehensive study on the role of Italian fashion and Italian literature, this book analyzes clothing and fashion as described and represented in literary texts and costume books in the Italy of the 16th and 17th centuries. Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy emphasizes the centrality of Italian literature and culture for understanding modern theories of fashion and gauging its impact in the shaping of codes of civility and taste in Europe and the West. Using literature to uncover what has been called the ’animatedness of clothing,’ author Eugenia Paulicelli explores the political meanings that clothing produces in public space. At the core of the book is the idea that the texts examined here act as maps that, first, pinpoint the establishment of fashion as a social institution of modernity; and, second, gauge the meaning of clothing at a personal and a political level. As well as Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier and Cesare Vecellio’s The Clothing of the Renaissance World, the author looks at works by Italian writers whose books are not yet available in English translation, such as those by Giacomo Franco, Arcangela Tarabotti, and Agostino Lampugnani. Paying particular attention to literature and the relevance of clothing in the shaping of codes of civility and style, this volume complements the existing and important works on Italian fashion and material culture in the Renaissance. It makes the case for the centrality of Italian literature and the interconnectedness of texts from a variety of genres for an understanding of the history of Italian style, and serves to contextualize the debate on dress in other European literatures.

Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence

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Author :
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1474249779
Total Pages : 224 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (742 download)

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Book Synopsis Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence by : Elizabeth Currie

Download or read book Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence written by Elizabeth Currie and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2016-07-28 with total page 224 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Dress became a testing ground for masculine ideals in Renaissance Italy. With the establishment of the ducal regime in Florence in 1530, there was increasing debate about how to be a nobleman. Was fashionable clothing a sign of magnificence or a source of mockery? Was the graceful courtier virile or effeminate? How could a man dress for court without bankrupting himself? This book explores the whole story of clothing, from the tailor's workshop to spectacular court festivities, to show how the male nobility in one of Italy's main textile production centers used their appearances to project social, sexual, and professional identities. Sixteenth-century male fashion is often associated with swagger and ostentation but this book shows that Florentine clothing reflected manhood at a much deeper level, communicating a very Italian spectrum of male virtues and vices, from honor, courage, and restraint to luxury and excess. Situating dress at the heart of identity formation, Currie traces these codes through an array of sources, including unpublished archival records, surviving garments, portraiture, poetry, and personal correspondence between the Medici and their courtiers. Addressing important themes such as gender, politics, and consumption, Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence sheds fresh light on the sartorial culture of the Florentine court and Italy as a whole.

Angelica's Book and the World of Reading in Late Renaissance Italy

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Author :
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1474270328
Total Pages : 216 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (742 download)

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Book Synopsis Angelica's Book and the World of Reading in Late Renaissance Italy by : Brendan Dooley

Download or read book Angelica's Book and the World of Reading in Late Renaissance Italy written by Brendan Dooley and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2016-10-20 with total page 216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Through the lens of a history of material culture mediated by an object, Angelica's Book and the World of Reading in Late Renaissance Italy investigates aspects of women's lives, culture, ideas and the history of the book in early modern Italy. Inside a badly damaged copy of Straparola's 16th-century work, Piacevoli Notti, acquired in a Florentine antique shop in 2010, an inscription is found, attributing ownership to a certain Angelica Baldachini. The discovery sets in motion a series of inquiries, deploying knowledge about calligraphy, orthography, linguistics, dialectology and the socio-psychology of writing, to reveal the person behind the name. Focusing as much on the possible owner as upon the thing owned, Angelica's Book examines the genesis of the Piacevoli Notti and its many editions, including the one in question. The intertwined stories of the book and its owner are set against the backdrop of a Renaissance world, still imperfectly understood, in which literature and reading were subject to regimes of control; and the new information throws aspects of this world into further relief, especially in regard to women's involvement with reading, books and knowledge. The inquiry yields unexpected insights concerning the logic of accidental discovery, the nature of evidence, and the mission of the humanities in a time of global crisis. Angelica's Book and the World of Reading in Late Renaissance Italy is a thought-provoking read for any scholar of early modern Europe and its culture.

The First Book of Fashion

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Author :
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1474249906
Total Pages : 421 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (742 download)

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Book Synopsis The First Book of Fashion by : Ulinka Rublack

Download or read book The First Book of Fashion written by Ulinka Rublack and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2021-02-11 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This captivating book reproduces arguably the most extraordinary primary source documents in fashion history. Providing a revealing window onto the Renaissance, they chronicle how style-conscious accountant Matthäus Schwarz and his son Veit Konrad experienced life through clothes, and climbed the social ladder through fastidious management of self-image. These bourgeois dandies' agenda resonates as powerfully today as it did in the sixteenth century: one has to dress to impress, and dress to impress they did. The Schwarzes recorded their sartorial triumphs as well as failures in life in a series of portraits by illuminists over 60 years, which have been comprehensively reproduced in full color for the first time. These exquisite illustrations are accompanied by the Schwarzes' fashion-focussed yet at times deeply personal captions, which render the pair the world's first fashion bloggers and pioneers of everyday portraiture. The First Book of Fashion demonstrates how dress – seemingly both ephemeral and trivial – is a potent tool in the right hands. Beyond this, it colorfully recaptures the experience of Renaissance life and reveals the importance of clothing to the aesthetics and every day culture of the period. Historians Ulinka Rublack's and Maria Hayward's insightful commentaries create an unparalleled portrait of sixteenth-century dress that is both strikingly modern and thorough in its description of a true Renaissance fashionista's wardrobe. This first English translation also includes a bespoke pattern by TONY award-winning costume designer and dress historian Jenny Tiramani, from which readers can recreate one of Schwarz's most elaborate and politically significant outfits.

Benvenuto Cellini

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Author :
Publisher : Springer
ISBN 13 : 1137122080
Total Pages : 240 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (371 download)

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Book Synopsis Benvenuto Cellini by : M. Gallucci

Download or read book Benvenuto Cellini written by M. Gallucci and published by Springer. This book was released on 2016-09-27 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Celebrated goldsmith and sculptor of the Italian Renaissance, Benvenuto Cellini (1500-71) fits the conventional image of a Renaissance man: a skillful virtuoso and courtier; an artist who worked in marble, bronze, and gold; and a writer and poet. Using the methodologies of New Historicism, social history, and gender and sexuality studies, this book places Cellini and his cultural production in the context of contemporary discourses about sexuality, law, magic, masculinity, and honor. In his life and literary oeuvre, the notorious artist, rogue, and sodomite aligned himself with the transgressive and oppositional voices of his day.

Black Africans in Renaissance Europe

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Author :
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
ISBN 13 : 9780521815826
Total Pages : 448 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (158 download)

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Book Synopsis Black Africans in Renaissance Europe by : Thomas Foster Earle

Download or read book Black Africans in Renaissance Europe written by Thomas Foster Earle and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2005-05-26 with total page 448 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This highly original book opens up the almost entirely neglected area of the black African presence in Western Europe during the Renaissance. Covering history, literature, art history and anthropology, it investigates a whole range of black African experience and representation across Renaissance Europe, from various types of slavery to black musicians and dancers, from real and symbolic Africans at court to the views of the Catholic Church, and from writers of African descent to Black African criminality. Their findings demonstrate the variety and complexity of black African life in fifteenth and sixteenth-century Europe, and how it was affected by firmly held preconceptions relating to the African continent and its inhabitants, reinforced by Renaissance ideas and conditions. Of enormous importance both for European and American history, this book mixes empirical material and theoretical approaches, and addresses such issues as stereotypes, changing black African identity, and cultural representation in art and literature.

Armour and Masculinity in the Italian Renaissance

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Author :
Publisher : University of Toronto Press
ISBN 13 : 1442699027
Total Pages : 257 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (426 download)

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Book Synopsis Armour and Masculinity in the Italian Renaissance by : Carolyn Springer

Download or read book Armour and Masculinity in the Italian Renaissance written by Carolyn Springer and published by University of Toronto Press. This book was released on 2010-07-15 with total page 257 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: During the Italian Wars of 1494 to 1559, with innovations in military technology and tactics, armour began to disappear from the battlefield. Yet as field armour was retired, parade and ceremonial armour grew increasingly flamboyant. Displaced from its utilitarian function of defense but retained for symbolic uses, armour evolved in a new direction as a medium of artistic expression. Luxury armour became a chief accessory in the performance of elite male identity, coded with messages regarding the owner's social status, genealogy, and political alliances. Carolyn Springer decodes Renaissance armour as three-dimensional portraits through the case studies of three patrons of luxury armourers, Guidobaldo II della Rovere (1514-75), Charles V Habsburg (1500-58 and Holy Roman Emperor from 1519-56), and Cosimo I de'Medici (1519-74). A fascinating exposition of male self-representation, Armour and Masculinity in the Italian Renaissance explores the significance of armour in early modern Italy as both cultural artefact and symbolic form.

Dressing Up

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Publisher : OUP Oxford
ISBN 13 : 9780199645183
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (451 download)

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Book Synopsis Dressing Up by : Ulinka Rublack

Download or read book Dressing Up written by Ulinka Rublack and published by OUP Oxford. This book was released on 2011-11-10 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Uses an astonishing array of sources to imagine the Renaissance afresh by considering people´s appearances: what they wore, how this made them move, what images they created, and how all this made people feel about themselves.

The Lure of Perfection

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Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 1135878307
Total Pages : 308 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (358 download)

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Book Synopsis The Lure of Perfection by : Judith Bennahum

Download or read book The Lure of Perfection written by Judith Bennahum and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2005-07-08 with total page 308 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: THE LURE OF PERFECTION: FASHION AND BALLET, 1780-1830 offers a unique look at how ballet influenced contemporary fashion and women's body image, and how street fashions in turn were reflected by the costumes worn by ballet dancers. Through years of research, the author has traced the interplay between fashion, social trends, and the development of dance. During the 18th century, women literally took up twice as much space as men; their billowing dresses ballooned out from their figures, sometimes a full 55 inches, to display costly jewelry and fine brocade work; similar costumes appeared on stage. But clothing also limited her movement; it literally disabled them, making the dances themselves little more than tableaux. Movement was further inhibited by high shoes and tight corsets; thus the image of the rigidly straight, long-lined dancer is as much a product of clothing as aesthetics. However, with changing times came new trends. An increased interest in natural movement and the common folk led to less-restrictive clothing. As viewers demanded more virtuosic dancers, women literally danced their way to freedom. THE LURE OF PERFECTION will interest students of dance and cultural history, and women's studies. It is a fascinating, well-researched look at the interplay of fashion, dance, and culture-still very much a part of our world today.

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Renaissance

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Author :
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1350114146
Total Pages : 272 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (51 download)

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Book Synopsis A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Renaissance by : Elizabeth Currie

Download or read book A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Renaissance written by Elizabeth Currie and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2018-11-01 with total page 272 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Spurred by an increasingly international and competitive market, the Renaissance saw the development of many new fabrics and the use of highly prized ingredients imported from the New World. In response to a thirst for the new, fashion's pace of change accelerated, the production of garments provided employment for an increasingly significant proportion of the working population, and entrepreneurial artisans began to transform even the most functional garments into fashionable ones. Anxieties concerning vanity and the power of clothing to mask identities heightened fears of fashion's corrupting influence, and heralded the great age of sumptuary legislation intended to police status and gender through dress. Drawing on sources from surviving garments to artworks to moralising pamphlets, this richly illustrated volume presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.

Engaging Symbols

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Publisher : Yale University Press
ISBN 13 : 9780300092127
Total Pages : 404 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (921 download)

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Book Synopsis Engaging Symbols by : Adrian W. B. Randolph

Download or read book Engaging Symbols written by Adrian W. B. Randolph and published by Yale University Press. This book was released on 2002-01-01 with total page 404 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Randolph shows how "engaging" political symbols were grounded in a revolutionary way in amorous discourses that drew on metaphors of affection, desire, courtship, betrothal, marriage, homo- and hetero-eroticism, and procreation."--BOOK JACKET.

The Suit

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Publisher : Reaktion Books
ISBN 13 : 1780235585
Total Pages : 256 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (82 download)

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Book Synopsis The Suit by : Christopher Breward

Download or read book The Suit written by Christopher Breward and published by Reaktion Books. This book was released on 2016-04-15 with total page 256 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Be as in love with your jeans, sweatpants, or flannels as you want, it’s hard to refute the sumptuous feel of a finely tailored suit—as well as the statement of power that comes with it. For over a century the suit has dominated wardrobes, its simple form making it the go-to attire for boardrooms, churches, or cocktail bars—anywhere one wants to make an impression. But this ubiquity has allowed us to take the suit’s history for granted, and its complex construction, symbolic power, and many shifting meanings have been lost to all but the most devout sartorialists. In The Suit, Christopher Breward unstitches the story of our most familiar garment. He shows how its emergence at the end of the seventeenth century reflects important political rivalries and the rise of modern democratic society. He follows the development of technologies in the textile industry and shows how they converge on the suit as an ideal template of modern fashion, which he follows across the globe—to South and East Asia especially—where the suit became an icon of Western civilization. The quintessential emblem of conformity and the status quo, the suit ironically became, as Breward unveils, the perfect vehicle for artists, musicians, and social revolutionaries to symbolically undermine hegemonic culture, twisting and tearing the suit into political statements. Looking at the suit’s adoption by women, Breward goes on to discuss the ways it signals and engages gender. He closes by looking at the suit’s apparent decline—woe the tyranny of business casual!—and questioning its survival in the twenty-first century. Beautifully illustrated and written with the authority a Zegna or Armani itself commands, The Suit offers new perspectives on this familiar—yet special—garment.

The Right to Dress

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Author :
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
ISBN 13 : 1108643523
Total Pages : 525 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (86 download)

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Book Synopsis The Right to Dress by : Giorgio Riello

Download or read book The Right to Dress written by Giorgio Riello and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2019-01-17 with total page 525 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the first global history of dress regulation and its place in broader debates around how human life and societies should be visualised and materialised. Sumptuary laws were a tool on the part of states to regulate not only manufacturing systems and moral economies via the medium of expenditure and consumption of clothing but also banquets, festivities and funerals. Leading scholars on Asian, Latin American, Ottoman and European history shed new light on how and why items of dress became key aspirational goods across society, how they were lobbied for and marketed, and whether or not sumptuary laws were implemented by cities, states and empires to restrict or channel trade and consumption. Their findings reveal the significance of sumptuary laws in medieval and early modern societies as a site of contestation between individuals and states and how dress as an expression of identity developed as a modern 'human right'.

A Companion to Textile Culture

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Author :
Publisher : John Wiley & Sons
ISBN 13 : 1118768906
Total Pages : 528 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (187 download)

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Book Synopsis A Companion to Textile Culture by : Jennifer Harris

Download or read book A Companion to Textile Culture written by Jennifer Harris and published by John Wiley & Sons. This book was released on 2020-09-16 with total page 528 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A lively and innovative collection of new and recent writings on the cultural contexts of textiles The study of textile culture is a dynamic field of scholarship which spans disciplines and crosses traditional academic boundaries. A Companion to Textile Culture is an expertly curated compendium of new scholarship on both the historical and contemporary cultural dimensions of textiles, bringing together the work of an interdisciplinary team of recognized experts in the field. The Companion provides an expansive examination of textiles within the broader area of visual and material culture, and addresses key issues central to the contemporary study of the subject. A wide range of methodological and theoretical approaches to the subject are explored—technological, anthropological, philosophical, and psychoanalytical, amongst others—and developments that have influenced academic writing about textiles over the past decade are discussed in detail. Uniquely, the text embraces archaeological textiles from the first millennium AD as well as contemporary art and performance work that is still ongoing. This authoritative volume: Offers a balanced presentation of writings from academics, artists, and curators Presents writings from disciplines including histories of art and design, world history, anthropology, archaeology, and literary studies Covers an exceptionally broad chronological and geographical range Provides diverse global, transnational, and narrative perspectives Included numerous images throughout the text to illustrate key concepts A Companion to Textile Culture is an essential resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students, instructors, and researchers of textile history, contemporary textiles, art and design, visual and material culture, textile crafts, and museology.