200 Years Of Surfing Literature

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200 Years of Surfing Literature

Author : Timothy T. DeLa Vega
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780975432808
Total Pages : 102 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (328 download)

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Book Synopsis 200 Years of Surfing Literature by : Timothy T. DeLa Vega

Download or read book 200 Years of Surfing Literature written by Timothy T. DeLa Vega and published by . This book was released on 2004 with total page 102 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Aloha... The worlds first bibliography devoted to the literature of the sport of surfing. Starting with Captain J. Cook (1779) and continuing on to just released books (2004), including interviews of many of the most renowned surfing authors, notes from surfing historians and quotes from the original text. Devided into four time periods to make research more user freindly, with historical time frame introductions. Numerous pre 1900 illustrations and magazine and book covers add a visiual note for the collector and historian. This groundbreaking piece has been called 'Landmark' by "Surfers Journal's" Steve Pezman. Numbered Limited press run.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156032513
Total Pages : 820 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (325 download)

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Book Synopsis The Encyclopedia of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

North Shore Chronicles

Author : Bruce Jenkins
Publisher : Frog Books
ISBN 13 : 9781583941249
Total Pages : 284 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (412 download)

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Book Synopsis North Shore Chronicles by : Bruce Jenkins

Download or read book North Shore Chronicles written by Bruce Jenkins and published by Frog Books. This book was released on 2005-08-05 with total page 284 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.

Surfer of the Century

Author : Ellie Crowe
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 56 pages
Book Rating : 4.F/5 ( download)

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Book Synopsis Surfer of the Century by : Ellie Crowe

Download or read book Surfer of the Century written by Ellie Crowe and published by . This book was released on 2007 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "A brief biography of Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, five-time Olympic swimming champion from the early 1900s who is also considered worldwide as the 'father of modern surfing'"--Provided by publisher.

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Soul Surfer

Author : Bethany Hamilton
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 147110950X
Total Pages : 218 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (711 download)

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Book Synopsis Soul Surfer by : Bethany Hamilton

Download or read book Soul Surfer written by Bethany Hamilton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2012-12-25 with total page 218 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing - not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack - could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii Bethany responded to the shark's stealth with a calmness beyond belief. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately thought: 'Get to the beach...' Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Ted Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the operating theatre. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was 'When can I surf again?' it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story - a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world.

Surfing in Hawai'i

Author : Timothy Tovar DeLaVega
Publisher : Arcadia Publishing
ISBN 13 : 9780738574882
Total Pages : 132 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (748 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing in Hawai'i by : Timothy Tovar DeLaVega

Download or read book Surfing in Hawai'i written by Timothy Tovar DeLaVega and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2011 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When the early European explorers traversed the globe, their journals held numerous accounts of Hawaiians enjoying surfing. Since Europeans of that era were not accustomed to swimming in their own cold waters, it must have seemed like a dream to watch naked native Hawaiians riding the waves of a turbulent sea. Nowhere in the ancient world was surfing as ingrained into the culture as on the islands of Hawai'i. He'e nalu (wave sliding) was the national sport and enjoyed by all. When a swell was up, whole villages were deserted as everyone fled to the beach to test their surfing skills. Legends of famous surf riders were retold in mele (song/chant), and fortunes could be decided on the outcome of a surfing contest. From these shores, modern surfing was born, along with the iconic romantic images of bronzed surfers, grass shacks, and hula.

The Critical Surf Studies Reader

Author : Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee
Publisher : Duke University Press
ISBN 13 : 0822372827
Total Pages : 490 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (223 download)

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Book Synopsis The Critical Surf Studies Reader by : Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee

Download or read book The Critical Surf Studies Reader written by Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee and published by Duke University Press. This book was released on 2017-08-17 with total page 490 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The evolution of surfing—from the first forms of wave-riding in Oceania, Africa, and the Americas to the inauguration of surfing as a competitive sport at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics—traverses the age of empire, the rise of globalization, and the onset of the digital age, taking on new meanings at each juncture. As corporations have sought to promote surfing as a lifestyle and leisure enterprise, the sport has also narrated its own epic myths that place North America at the center of surf culture and relegate Hawai‘i and other indigenous surfing cultures to the margins. The Critical Surf Studies Reader brings together eighteen interdisciplinary essays that explore surfing's history and development as a practice embedded in complex and sometimes oppositional social, political, economic, and cultural relations. Refocusing the history and culture of surfing, this volume pays particular attention to reclaiming the roles that women, indigenous peoples, and people of color have played in surfing. Contributors. Douglas Booth, Peter Brosius, Robin Canniford, Krista Comer, Kevin Dawson, Clifton Evers, Chris Gibson, Dina Gilio-Whitaker, Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee, Scott Laderman, Kristin Lawler, lisahunter, Colleen McGloin, Patrick Moser, Tara Ruttenberg, Cori Schumacher, Alexander Sotelo Eastman, Glen Thompson, Isaiah Helekunihi Walker, Andrew Warren, Belinda Wheaton

Caught Inside

Author : Daniel Duane
Publisher : Macmillan
ISBN 13 : 9780865475090
Total Pages : 260 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (75 download)

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Book Synopsis Caught Inside by : Daniel Duane

Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna

Tapping the Source

Author : Kem Nunn
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1451645554
Total Pages : 322 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (516 download)

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Book Synopsis Tapping the Source by : Kem Nunn

Download or read book Tapping the Source written by Kem Nunn and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2012-06-19 with total page 322 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: NATIONAL BOOK AWARD FINALIST Kem Nunn’s “surf noir” classic is a thrilling plunge into the seedy underbelly of a Southern California beach town—the inspiration for the film Point Break. People go to Huntington Beach in search of the endless parties, the ultimate highs, and the perfect waves. Ike Tucker has come to look for his missing sister and for the three men who may have murdered her. In that place of gilded surfers and sun-bleached blonds, Ike’s search takes him on a journey through a twisted world of crazed Vietnam vets, sadistic surfers, drug dealers, and mysterious seducers. He looks into the shadows and finds parties that drift toward pointless violence, joyless vacations, and highs you may never come down from...and a sea of old hatreds and dreams gone bad. And if he’s not careful, his is a journey from which he will never return.

West of Jesus

Author : Steven Kotler
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN 13 : 1596918357
Total Pages : 270 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (969 download)

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Book Synopsis West of Jesus by : Steven Kotler

Download or read book West of Jesus written by Steven Kotler and published by Bloomsbury Publishing USA. This book was released on 2008-12-01 with total page 270 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.

Staying on Top and Keeping the Sand Out of Your Pants

Author : Scott Miller
Publisher : HCI
ISBN 13 : 9780757300332
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (3 download)

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Book Synopsis Staying on Top and Keeping the Sand Out of Your Pants by : Scott Miller

Download or read book Staying on Top and Keeping the Sand Out of Your Pants written by Scott Miller and published by HCI. This book was released on 2003-05-01 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Using surfing as a metaphor for motivational and self-improvement concepts and written in accessible, everyday language peppered with surfer slang, Staying on Top proves that the good life is available right now. Making these essential lessons fun, cartoon character Surf Master Alva appears throughout the book to dispense nuggets of wisdom that point the way to the good life, illustrating in a humorous and wise way that experts and gurus are not needed to understand and make the most of life. In other words, we don't have to learn how to achieve the good life through retreats, pills, hospitals or programs, nor do we have to wait until we find the "perfect time". In surfer parlance, "Surfz up, dude! Get your board and get to the beach." Assessing their understanding of prevailing societal values portrayed through surfing metaphors and Surf Master Alva's quirky wisdom, Staying on Top will awaken people to the reality that living life to the fullest requires living in the present. Life right now is all anyone can truly be sure of: The secret to achieving and maintaining balance and serenity lies in accepting and embracing that truth. For long-term devotees of self-help literature and newcomers to the genre, everyone will delight in this wise yet whimsical journey to enlightenment.

The American Surfer

Author : Kristin Lawler
Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 1136879846
Total Pages : 222 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (368 download)

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Book Synopsis The American Surfer by : Kristin Lawler

Download or read book The American Surfer written by Kristin Lawler and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2010-10-18 with total page 222 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book examines the surfer, one of the most significant and enduring archetypes in American popular culture. Lawler sets the surfer against the backdrop of the negative reactions to it by those groups responsible for enforcing the Puritan discipline, offering a fresh take on the relationship between commercial culture and counterculture.

Surfs Up

Author : Mark Blackburn
Publisher : Schiffer Pub Limited
ISBN 13 : 9780764313554
Total Pages : 256 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (135 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfs Up by : Mark Blackburn

Download or read book Surfs Up written by Mark Blackburn and published by Schiffer Pub Limited. This book was released on 2001 with total page 256 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the first book to combine a detailed history of surfing, a grading guide for surfboards, and collectible surfing items with an accurate price guide. It gives a complete overview of sport surfing from its ancient beginnings in Polynesia and Hawaii until 1969, the end of the longboard era. The great icons of the sport all put in appearances making this the book all surf fans will covet.

Let My People Go Surfing

Author : Yvon Chouinard
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 1101992530
Total Pages : 274 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (19 download)

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Book Synopsis Let My People Go Surfing by : Yvon Chouinard

Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-09-06 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope." —Jared Diamond, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Guns, Germs, and Steel In this 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell

Author : Chas Smith
Publisher : Harper Collins
ISBN 13 : 0062202545
Total Pages : 196 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (622 download)

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Book Synopsis Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell by : Chas Smith

Download or read book Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell written by Chas Smith and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 2013-11-19 with total page 196 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world.

Empire in Waves

Author : Scott Laderman
Publisher : Univ of California Press
ISBN 13 : 0520958047
Total Pages : 251 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (29 download)

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Book Synopsis Empire in Waves by : Scott Laderman

Download or read book Empire in Waves written by Scott Laderman and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2014-01-18 with total page 251 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing today evokes many things: thundering waves, warm beaches, bikinis and lifeguards, and carefree pleasure. But is the story of surfing really as simple as popular culture suggests? In this first international political history of the sport, Scott Laderman shows that while wave riding is indeed capable of stimulating tremendous pleasure, its globalization went hand in hand with the blood and repression of the long twentieth century. Emerging as an imperial instrument in post-annexation Hawaii, spawning a form of tourism that conquered the littoral Third World, tracing the struggle against South African apartheid, and employed as a diplomatic weapon in America's Cold War arsenal, the saga of modern surfing is only partially captured by Gidget, the Beach Boys, and the film Blue Crush. From nineteenth-century American empire-building in the Pacific to the low-wage labor of the surf industry today, Laderman argues that surfing in fact closely mirrored American foreign relations. Yet despite its less-than-golden past, the sport continues to captivate people worldwide. Whether in El Salvador or Indonesia or points between, the modern history of this cherished pastime is hardly an uncomplicated story of beachside bliss. Sometimes messy, occasionally contentious, but never dull, surfing offers us a whole new way of viewing our globalized world.