Youre The Best Surfer Keep That Shit Up

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Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Man UNcivilized

Author : Traver Boehm
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780578945064
Total Pages : pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (45 download)

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Book Synopsis Man UNcivilized by : Traver Boehm

Download or read book Man UNcivilized written by Traver Boehm and published by . This book was released on 2018-08-17 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the guidebook for the newly emerging paradigm of masculinity. One that includes and celebrates both the primal and divine aspects of men.

Surfing Uncertainty

Author : Andy Clark
Publisher : Oxford University Press, USA
ISBN 13 : 0190217014
Total Pages : 425 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (92 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing Uncertainty by : Andy Clark

Download or read book Surfing Uncertainty written by Andy Clark and published by Oxford University Press, USA. This book was released on 2016 with total page 425 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Exciting new theories in neuroscience, psychology, and artificial intelligence are revealing minds like ours as predictive minds, forever trying to guess the incoming streams of sensory stimulation before they arrive. In this up-to-the-minute treatment, philosopher and cognitive scientist Andy Clark explores new ways of thinking about perception, action, and the embodied mind.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156032513
Total Pages : 820 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (325 download)

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Book Synopsis The Encyclopedia of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Feel the Fear... and Do It Anyway

Author : Susan Jeffers
Publisher : HarperCollins
ISBN 13 : 0063291304
Total Pages : 232 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (632 download)

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Book Synopsis Feel the Fear... and Do It Anyway by : Susan Jeffers

Download or read book Feel the Fear... and Do It Anyway written by Susan Jeffers and published by HarperCollins. This book was released on 2023-03-14 with total page 232 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The classic bestseller that has inspired millions to face their fears once and for all is newly revised with an updated version. Are you afraid of making decisions . . . asking your boss for a raise . . . leaving a relationship . . . facing the future? The world is a scary place right now—day to day stress and worry is at an all-time high—but the hard truth is that fear won’t just go away on its own. The only way to get rid of fear is to approach it, and this book is your essential guide to connecting with your inner power in order to do just that. In this enduring work of self-empowerment, now updated for the post-pandemic new normal, Dr. Susan Jeffers shares dynamic techniques and profound concepts that have helped countless people grab hold of their fears and move forward with their lives. You’ll discover: · How to raise your self-esteem · How to become more assertive · How to connect to the powerhouse within · How to create more meaning in your life · How to experience more enjoyment With warmth, insight and humor, Dr. Jeffers shows you how to become powerful in the face of your fears—and enjoy the elation of living a creative, joyous, loving life. Whatever your fear, here is your chance to push through it and find true and lasting fulfillment on the other side.

Surf Is Where You Find It

Author : Gerry Lopez
Publisher : Patagonia
ISBN 13 : 1938340256
Total Pages : 571 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (383 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Is Where You Find It by : Gerry Lopez

Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2015-04-17 with total page 571 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

In Search of Captain Zero

Author : Allan Weisbecker
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 1585421774
Total Pages : 353 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (854 download)

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Book Synopsis In Search of Captain Zero by : Allan Weisbecker

Download or read book In Search of Captain Zero written by Allan Weisbecker and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2002-09-16 with total page 353 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1996, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his long-time surfing companion, Patrick, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from Mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Patrick's disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend. In Search of Captain Zero is, according to Outside magazine, "A subtly affecting tale of friendship and duty. [It] deserves a spot on the microbus dashboard as a hell of a cautionary tale about finding paradise and smoking it away." In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road is a Booksense 76 Top Ten selection for September/October.

Linda Goodman's Love Signs

Author : Linda Goodman
Publisher : RosettaBooks
ISBN 13 : 0795316488
Total Pages : 1103 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (953 download)

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Book Synopsis Linda Goodman's Love Signs by : Linda Goodman

Download or read book Linda Goodman's Love Signs written by Linda Goodman and published by RosettaBooks. This book was released on 2014-01-09 with total page 1103 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The New York Times bestseller that helps you explore whether romance is in the stars. Linda Goodman’s Love Signs addresses the question asked by everyone familiar with astrology: How do I relate to someone of another sign? Each sign is “related” to the twelve signs of the zodiac in a different and unique way. Each section addresses the differences for a male and a female with the same sign matches. This is an updated edition of Linda Goodman’s lively bestseller, which has introduced millions to the concept of astrological compatibility. “What seems to set Goodman’s books apart from other stargazing guides is their knowledgeable approach and comprehensive reach.” —Newsweek

The Art Of Seduction

Author : Robert Greene
Publisher : Profile Books
ISBN 13 : 1847651402
Total Pages : 496 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (476 download)

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Book Synopsis The Art Of Seduction by : Robert Greene

Download or read book The Art Of Seduction written by Robert Greene and published by Profile Books. This book was released on 2010-09-03 with total page 496 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Which sort of seducer could you be? Siren? Rake? Cold Coquette? Star? Comedian? Charismatic? Or Saint? This book will show you which. Charm, persuasion, the ability to create illusions: these are some of the many dazzling gifts of the Seducer, the compelling figure who is able to manipulate, mislead and give pleasure all at once. When raised to the level of art, seduction, an indirect and subtle form of power, has toppled empires, won elections and enslaved great minds. In this beautiful, sensually designed book, Greene unearths the two sides of seduction: the characters and the process. Discover who you, or your pursuer, most resembles. Learn, too, the pitfalls of the anti-Seducer. Immerse yourself in the twenty-four manoeuvres and strategies of the seductive process, the ritual by which a seducer gains mastery over their target. Understand how to 'Choose the Right Victim', 'Appear to Be an Object of Desire' and 'Confuse Desire and Reality'. In addition, Greene provides instruction on how to identify victims by type. Each fascinating character and each cunning tactic demonstrates a fundamental truth about who we are, and the targets we've become - or hope to win over. The Art of Seduction is an indispensable primer on the essence of one of history's greatest weapons and the ultimate power trip. From the internationally bestselling author of The 48 Laws of Power, Mastery, and The 33 Strategies Of War.

Surf Shacks

Author : Matt Titone
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559071
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (59 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Shacks by : Matt Titone

Download or read book Surf Shacks written by Matt Titone and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2017 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many abodes can fall under the label of surf shack: New York City apartments, cabins nestled next to national parks, or tiny Hawaiian huts. Surfing communities are overflowing with creativity, innovation, and rich personas. Surf Shacks takes a deeper look at surfers' homes and artistic habits. Glimpses of record collections, strolls through backyard gardens, or a peek into a painter's studio provide insight into surfers' lives both on and off shore. From the remote Hawaiian nook of filmmaker Jess Bianchi to the woodsy Japanese paradise that the former CEO of Surfrider Foundation in Japan, Hiromi Masubara, calls home to the converted bus that Ryan Lovelace claims as his domicile and his transport, every space has a unique tale. The moments that these vibrant personalities spend away from the swell and the froth are both captivating and nuanced.

Breath

Author : James Nestor
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0735213631
Total Pages : 306 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (352 download)

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Book Synopsis Breath by : James Nestor

Download or read book Breath written by James Nestor and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2020-05-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A New York Times Bestseller A Washington Post Notable Nonfiction Book of 2020 Named a Best Book of 2020 by NPR “A fascinating scientific, cultural, spiritual and evolutionary history of the way humans breathe—and how we’ve all been doing it wrong for a long, long time.” —Elizabeth Gilbert, author of Big Magic and Eat Pray Love No matter what you eat, how much you exercise, how skinny or young or wise you are, none of it matters if you’re not breathing properly. There is nothing more essential to our health and well-being than breathing: take air in, let it out, repeat twenty-five thousand times a day. Yet, as a species, humans have lost the ability to breathe correctly, with grave consequences. Journalist James Nestor travels the world to figure out what went wrong and how to fix it. The answers aren’t found in pulmonology labs, as we might expect, but in the muddy digs of ancient burial sites, secret Soviet facilities, New Jersey choir schools, and the smoggy streets of São Paulo. Nestor tracks down men and women exploring the hidden science behind ancient breathing practices like Pranayama, Sudarshan Kriya, and Tummo and teams up with pulmonary tinkerers to scientifically test long-held beliefs about how we breathe. Modern research is showing us that making even slight adjustments to the way we inhale and exhale can jump-start athletic performance; rejuvenate internal organs; halt snoring, asthma, and autoimmune disease; and even straighten scoliotic spines. None of this should be possible, and yet it is. Drawing on thousands of years of medical texts and recent cutting-edge studies in pulmonology, psychology, biochemistry, and human physiology, Breath turns the conventional wisdom of what we thought we knew about our most basic biological function on its head. You will never breathe the same again.

Reports from Hell

Author : Chas Smith
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781644280751
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (87 download)

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Book Synopsis Reports from Hell by : Chas Smith

Download or read book Reports from Hell written by Chas Smith and published by . This book was released on 2020 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction and Cocaine + Surfing A gonzo ride through the Middle East as only Chas Smith, the award-winning author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell and Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, could provide. Follow Smith and his misfit band of merrymakers as they search for the true origins of Al Qaeda and endeavor to ride the unsurfed waves of Yemen all while exploring the slim opportunities for fun in the margins of our global war on terror and at what cost--even if it means eventual kidnapping by Hezbollah.

Hyperbole and a Half

Author : Allie Brosh
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1451666187
Total Pages : 384 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (516 download)

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Book Synopsis Hyperbole and a Half by : Allie Brosh

Download or read book Hyperbole and a Half written by Allie Brosh and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2013-10-29 with total page 384 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: #1 New York Times Bestseller “Funny and smart as hell” (Bill Gates), Allie Brosh’s Hyperbole and a Half showcases her unique voice, leaping wit, and her ability to capture complex emotions with deceptively simple illustrations. FROM THE PUBLISHER: Every time Allie Brosh posts something new on her hugely popular blog Hyperbole and a Half the internet rejoices. This full-color, beautifully illustrated edition features more than fifty percent new content, with ten never-before-seen essays and one wholly revised and expanded piece as well as classics from the website like, “The God of Cake,” “Dogs Don’t Understand Basic Concepts Like Moving,” and her astonishing, “Adventures in Depression,” and “Depression Part Two,” which have been hailed as some of the most insightful meditations on the disease ever written. Brosh’s debut marks the launch of a major new American humorist who will surely make even the biggest scrooge or snob laugh. We dare you not to. FROM THE AUTHOR: This is a book I wrote. Because I wrote it, I had to figure out what to put on the back cover to explain what it is. I tried to write a long, third-person summary that would imply how great the book is and also sound vaguely authoritative—like maybe someone who isn’t me wrote it—but I soon discovered that I’m not sneaky enough to pull it off convincingly. So I decided to just make a list of things that are in the book: Pictures Words Stories about things that happened to me Stories about things that happened to other people because of me Eight billion dollars* Stories about dogs The secret to eternal happiness* *These are lies. Perhaps I have underestimated my sneakiness!

Saltwater Buddha

Author : Jaimal Yogis
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 0861719980
Total Pages : 265 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (617 download)

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Book Synopsis Saltwater Buddha by : Jaimal Yogis

Download or read book Saltwater Buddha written by Jaimal Yogis and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2009-04-10 with total page 265 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey is a coming-of-age saga that takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore. Equal parts spiritual memoir and surfer's tale, this is a chronicle of finding meditative focus in the barrel of a wave and eternal truth in the great salty blue.

My New Roots

Author : Sarah Britton
Publisher : Appetite by Random House
ISBN 13 : 0449016455
Total Pages : 585 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (49 download)

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Book Synopsis My New Roots by : Sarah Britton

Download or read book My New Roots written by Sarah Britton and published by Appetite by Random House. This book was released on 2015-03-31 with total page 585 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Holistic nutritionist and highly-regarded blogger Sarah Britton presents a refreshing, straight-forward approach to balancing mind, body, and spirit through a diet made up of whole foods. Sarah Britton's approach to plant-based cuisine is about satisfaction--foods that satiate on a physical, emotional, and spiritual level. Based on her knowledge of nutrition and her love of cooking, Sarah Britton crafts recipes made from organic vegetables, fruits, whole grains, beans, lentils, nuts, and seeds. She explains how a diet based on whole foods allows the body to regulate itself, eliminating the need to count calories. My New Roots draws on the enormous appeal of Sarah Britton's blog, which strikes the perfect balance between healthy and delicious food. She is a "whole food lover," a cook who makes simple accessible plant-based meals that are a pleasure to eat and a joy to make. This book takes its cues from the rhythms of the earth, showcasing 100 seasonal recipes. Sarah simmers thinly sliced celery root until it mimics pasta for Butternut Squash Lasagna, and whips up easy raw chocolate to make homemade chocolate-nut butter candy cups. Her recipes are not about sacrifice, deprivation, or labels--they are about enjoying delicious food that's also good for you.

The Comfort Crisis

Author : Michael Easter
Publisher : Rodale Books
ISBN 13 : 0593138775
Total Pages : 292 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (931 download)

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Book Synopsis The Comfort Crisis by : Michael Easter

Download or read book The Comfort Crisis written by Michael Easter and published by Rodale Books. This book was released on 2021-05-11 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “If you’ve been looking for something different to level up your health, fitness, and personal growth, this is it.”—Melissa Urban, Whole30 CEO and New York Times bestselling author of The Book of Boundaries “Michael Easter’s genius is that he puts data around the edges of what we intuitively believe. His work has inspired many to change their lives for the better.”—Dr. Peter Attia, #1 New York Times bestselling author of Outlive Discover the evolutionary mind and body benefits of living at the edges of your comfort zone and reconnecting with the wild—from the author of Scarcity Brain, coming in September! In many ways, we’re more comfortable than ever before. But could our sheltered, temperature-controlled, overfed, underchallenged lives actually be the leading cause of many our most urgent physical and mental health issues? In this gripping investigation, award-winning journalist Michael Easter seeks out off-the-grid visionaries, disruptive genius researchers, and mind-body conditioning trailblazers who are unlocking the life-enhancing secrets of a counterintuitive solution: discomfort. Easter’s journey to understand our evolutionary need to be challenged takes him to meet the NBA’s top exercise scientist, who uses an ancient Japanese practice to build championship athletes; to the mystical country of Bhutan, where an Oxford economist and Buddhist leader are showing the world what death can teach us about happiness; to the outdoor lab of a young neuroscientist who’s found that nature tests our physical and mental endurance in ways that expand creativity while taming burnout and anxiety; to the remote Alaskan backcountry on a demanding thirty-three-day hunting expedition to experience the rewilding secrets of one of the last rugged places on Earth; and more. Along the way, Easter uncovers a blueprint for leveraging the power of discomfort that will dramatically improve our health and happiness, and perhaps even help us understand what it means to be human. The Comfort Crisis is a bold call to break out of your comfort zone and explore the wild within yourself.

Our Band Could Be Your Life

Author : Michael Azerrad
Publisher : Little, Brown
ISBN 13 : 0316247189
Total Pages : 464 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (162 download)

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Book Synopsis Our Band Could Be Your Life by : Michael Azerrad

Download or read book Our Band Could Be Your Life written by Michael Azerrad and published by Little, Brown. This book was released on 2012-12-01 with total page 464 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The definitive chronicle of underground music in the 1980s tells the stories of Black Flag, Sonic Youth, The Replacements, and other seminal bands whose DIY revolution changed American music forever. Our Band Could Be Your Life is the never-before-told story of the musical revolution that happened right under the nose of the Reagan Eighties -- when a small but sprawling network of bands, labels, fanzines, radio stations, and other subversives re-energized American rock with punk's do-it-yourself credo and created music that was deeply personal, often brilliant, always challenging, and immensely influential. This sweeping chronicle of music, politics, drugs, fear, loathing, and faith is an indie rock classic in its own right. The bands profiled include: Sonic Youth Black Flag The Replacements Minutemen Husker Du Minor Threat Mission of Burma Butthole Surfers Big Black Fugazi Mudhoney Beat Happening Dinosaur Jr.