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Wind And Wave Forcing Of Longshore Currents Across A Barred Beach
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Book Synopsis Wind and Wave Forcing of Longshore Currents Across a Barred Beach by : Dennis James Whitford
Download or read book Wind and Wave Forcing of Longshore Currents Across a Barred Beach written by Dennis James Whitford and published by . This book was released on 1988 with total page 238 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Previous investigations of longshore currents have included simplifying assumptions and restriction (such as a planar beach, a steady and depth uniform flow, spatially-variant bed shear stress and turbulent momentum exchange, and the exclusion of surface wind stress. These assumptions are quantitatively investigated by calculating the relative importance of each term in the longshore momentum balance with an emphasis on the relative importance of wind forcing across the barred nearshore. Wind and wave forcing of longshore currents across a barred beach are examined using both a numerical model and field measurements. A local momentum balance was measured at various locations across the surf zone during the SUPERDUCK experiment held at the USACE CERC Field Research Facility, Duck, N.C. in October 1986. A moveable sled was instrumented with pressure, current, and wind sensors to measure the various terms in the longshore momentum equation. Stability-dependent atmospheric drag coefficients for the surf zone are determined from wind stress measurements acquired just beyond the surf zone and wind speed measurements acquired from an anemometer atop the 9 m sled mast. Breaking waves were visually identified and electronically marked on the data tapes. Keywords: Ocean currents; Air water interactions; Nearshore surf zone; Wind stress; Theses. (EDC).
Book Synopsis Nearshore Currents Over a Barred Beach by : Antonio Fernando Garcez Faria
Download or read book Nearshore Currents Over a Barred Beach written by Antonio Fernando Garcez Faria and published by . This book was released on 1997 with total page 182 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The objective of this dissertation is to develop numerical models and compare their predictions with data acquired during the DUCK94 experiment in order to improve our physical understanding of the hydrodynamic processes governing the vertical and cross shore distributions of both longshore and cross shore currents over a barred beach. The vertical structure of the mean longshore current is found to be well described by a logarithmic profile and a relationship between bed shear stress and bottom roughness, including the influence of ripples and mega-ripples, was also found. The vertical structure of the mean cross shore current (undertow) is modeled using an eddy viscosity closure scheme to solve for the turbulent shear stress and includes contributions from breaking wave rollers. These models of the vertical profiles of longshore and cross shore mean currents are combined to formulate a quasi three dimensional model to describe the cross shore distribution of the longshore current. This model includes turbulent mixing due to the cross shore advection of mean momentum of the longshore current by the mean cross shore current and contributions from wave rollers.
Book Synopsis Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering by : Philip L. F. Liu
Download or read book Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 290 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume contains six papers discussing coastal processes, and physical and numerical modeling.In the first paper, Svendsen and Putrevu give an extensive review on the state of understanding of surf-zone hydrodynamics, including subjects such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and instability of nearshore currents and infragravity waves. They point out that the most urgent need is to develop an adequate theory for wave breaking and broken waves in the surf zone.One of the methods for studying the complex coastal processes is to perform laboratory experiments. However, physical models are always plagued by scale and laboratory effects, because the coastal process involves many different length and time scales. In the second paper, Kamphuis presents a detailed discussion on the sources and implications of the scale and laboratory effects on physical modeling.The third and the fourth papers are two parts of the discussion on the mathematical modeling of the meso-tidal barrier island coasts. To understand the dynamics of coastal inlet systems, one can either rely on empirical knowledge and construct various forms of empirical and semi-empirical models (Part I), or develop a set of mathematical models based on the physical processes (Part II). Although these models do not provide the details of the dynamics, they give valuable knowledge of the equilibrium-state relationships. de Vriend and Ribberink give a detailed review on two models, Initial Sedimentation/Erosion models and Medium-Term Morphodynamic models. They have also presented many examples of applications.In the fifth paper, Houston gives a brief review on different methods to mitigate beach loss caused by storms or persistent long-term erosion. He then describes, in detail, the method of beach nourishment, which is also called a beach fill. This paper discusses the information that must be collected to design a beach fill and that should be monitored after the completion of the project.The last paper of this volume shifts our attention to the design of offshore structures, such as gravity structures, floating barges and tankers. Chakrabarti discusses the effects of the uniform and shear currents on fixed and floating structures.
Book Synopsis Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering by : Philip L-F Liu
Download or read book Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering written by Philip L-F Liu and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996-07-03 with total page 288 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume contains six papers discussing coastal processes, and physical and numerical modeling. In the first paper, Svendsen and Putrevu give an extensive review on the state of understanding of surf-zone hydrodynamics, including subjects such as wave breaking, wave-induced currents, and instability of nearshore currents and infragravity waves. They point out that the most urgent need is to develop an adequate theory for wave breaking and broken waves in the surf zone. One of the methods for studying the complex coastal processes is to perform laboratory experiments. However, physical models are always plagued by scale and laboratory effects, because the coastal process involves many different length and time scales. In the second paper, Kamphuis presents a detailed discussion on the sources and implications of the scale and laboratory effects on physical modeling. The third and the fourth papers are two parts of the discussion on the mathematical modeling of the meso-tidal barrier island coasts. To understand the dynamics of coastal inlet systems, one can either rely on empirical knowledge and construct various forms of empirical and semi-empirical models (Part I), or develop a set of mathematical models based on the physical processes (Part II). Although these models do not provide the details of the dynamics, they give valuable knowledge of the equilibrium-state relationships. de Vriend and Ribberink give a detailed review on two models, Initial Sedimentation/Erosion models and Medium-Term Morphodynamic models. They have also presented many examples of applications. In the fifth paper, Houston gives a brief review on different methods to mitigate beach loss caused by storms or persistent long-term erosion. He then describes, in detail, the method of beach nourishment, which is also called a beach fill. This paper discusses the information that must be collected to design a beach fill and that should be monitored after the completion of the project. The last paper of this volume shifts our attention to the design of offshore structures, such as gravity structures, floating barges and tankers. Chakrabarti discusses the effects of the uniform and shear currents on fixed and floating structures. Contents:Surf Zone Hydrodynamics (Ib A Svendsen & U Putrevn)Physical Modeling of Coastal Processes (J W Kamphuis)Mathematical Modeling of Meso-Tidal Barrier Island Coasts. Part I: Empirical and Semi-Empirical Models (H J de Vriend)Mathematical Modeling of Meso-Tidal Barrier Island Coasts. Part II: Process-Based Simulation Models (H J de Vriend & J S Ribberink)Beach-Fill Design (J R Houston)Shear Current and Its Effects on Fixed and Floating Structures (S K Chakrabarti) Readership: Researchers and engineers. keywords:Beach Loss;Beach Nourishment;Beach Fill;Coastal Engineering;Shore Protection;Reclamation of Land Coasts;Coastal Engineering;Oceanography;Ocean Engineering;Coastal Structures;Ocean Current;Loads;Fixed Structures;Floating Structures;Hydrodynamics;Physical Modeling;Mathematical Modeling;Tides;Testing;Waves
Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2008 written by and published by . This book was released on with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Effectiveness of Spur Jetties at Siuslaw River, Oregon by : Cheryl E. Pollock
Download or read book Effectiveness of Spur Jetties at Siuslaw River, Oregon written by Cheryl E. Pollock and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 130 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Technical Memodrandum by : Waterways Experiment Station (U.S.)
Download or read book Technical Memodrandum written by Waterways Experiment Station (U.S.) and published by . This book was released on 1988 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Effectiveness of Spur Jetties at Siuslaw River, Oregon by :
Download or read book Effectiveness of Spur Jetties at Siuslaw River, Oregon written by and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Technical Reports Awareness Circular : TRAC. by :
Download or read book Technical Reports Awareness Circular : TRAC. written by and published by . This book was released on 1989 with total page 516 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Shore Processes and their Palaeoenvironmental Applications by : Edward J. Anthony
Download or read book Shore Processes and their Palaeoenvironmental Applications written by Edward J. Anthony and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2008-11-21 with total page 540 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The last five years have been marked by rapid technological and analytical developments in the study of shore processes and in the comprehension of shore deposits and forms, and shoreline change over time. These developments have generated a considerable body of literature in a wide range of professional journals, thus illustrating the cross-disciplinary nature of shore processes and the palaeo-environmental dimension of shore change. The justification of the book lies in bringing together these developments using an objective approach that synthesises current advances, technical progress in the analysis of shores and shore processes, contradictory interpretations, and potential advances using future-generation developments in techniques. The book provides a comprehensive state-of-the-art presentation of shore processes and deposits across ranges of wave energy and tide-range environments, sediment supply and textural conditions, sea-level change, exceptional events and longer-term climate change, based on the most recently published literature in the marine sciences. The book insists on the nested time and spatial scales through which are inter-linked shore processes and deposits, thus providing a better understanding of the way shores change over time. The approach is thus cross-disciplinary, and gap-bridging between processes and deposits, between analytical techniques, and between timescales. The audience is from graduate level upwards, and the book is intended as a comprehensive reference source for professionals in a wide range of coastal science fields (geologists, sedimentologists, geomorphologists, oceanographers, engineers, managers, archaeologists...). * Aimed at graduates and specialists interested in coastal science * Presents background research, recent developments and future trends * Written by a leading scholar and industry expert
Book Synopsis Aquatic Sciences and Fisheries Abstracts by :
Download or read book Aquatic Sciences and Fisheries Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1991 with total page 716 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Masters Theses in the Pure and Applied Sciences by : Wade H. Shafer
Download or read book Masters Theses in the Pure and Applied Sciences written by Wade H. Shafer and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2012-12-06 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Masters Theses in the Pure and Applied Sciences was first conceived, published, and disseminated by the Center for Information and Numerical Data Analysis and Synthesis (CINDAS) * at Purdue University in 1957, starting its coverage of theses with the academic year 1955. Beginning with Volume 13, the printing and dissemination phases of the activity were transferred to University Microfilms/Xerox of Ann Arbor, Michigan, with the thought that such an arrangement would be more beneficial to the academic and general scientific and technical community. After five years of this joint undertaking we had concluded that it was in the interest of all con cerned if the printing and distribution of the volumes were handled by an interna tional publishing house to assure improved service and broader dissemination. Hence, starting with Volume 18, Masters Theses in the Pure and Applied Sciences has been disseminated on a worldwide basis by Plenum Publishing Cor poration of New York, and in the same year the coverage was broadened to include Canadian universities. All back issues can also be ordered from Plenum. We have reported in Volume 34 (thesis year 1989) a total of 13,377 theses titles from 26 Canadian and 184 United States universities. We are sure that this broader base for these titles reported will greatly enhance the value of this important annual reference work. While Volume 34 reports theses submitted in 1989, on occasion, certain univer sities do report theses submitted in previous years but not reported at the time.
Book Synopsis Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology by : R. Davidson-Arnott
Download or read book Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology written by R. Davidson-Arnott and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010 with total page 457 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A complete guide to coastal processes and their related features for undergraduate students.
Book Synopsis Topics in Longshore Currents by : John Casey Church
Download or read book Topics in Longshore Currents written by John Casey Church and published by . This book was released on 1993 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The momentum equation governing mean longshore currents on straight beaches is a balance of forcing from the momentum transfer of the oscillatory wave motion, turbulent momentum transfer (mixing), and bottom stress. Of these, the wave's contribution is well understood, but the remaining two are not, principally due to the complicated hydrodynamics of the surf-zone. Addressing the bottom stress term, a longshore current model is developed which includes a modification of the bottom stress due to the effects of breaking-wave induced turbulence. A one-dimensional turbulent kinetic energy equation is used to model this breaking-wave induced turbulence, producing a spatially varying bottom friction coefficient. The modeled longshore current cross-shore profiles show improved agreement with field observations. In a second bottom stress study, vertical profiles of mean longshore currents are examined using field data obtained with vertically stacked electromagnetic current meters with the goal of measuring the bottom stress and its associated drag coefficient. The profiles are observed to become vertically uniform whenever the ratio of wave height to depth exceeds 0.3, indicating that nearly all of the waves passing a given location are breaking. Finally, horizontal turbulent momentum transfer (mixing) is examined for the case of shear instabilities of the longshore current.
Book Synopsis Government Reports Announcements & Index by :
Download or read book Government Reports Announcements & Index written by and published by . This book was released on 1996-09 with total page 652 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Technical Report CERC written by and published by . This book was released on 1983 with total page 122 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Coastal Engineering 2006 by : Jane McKee Smith
Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2006 written by Jane McKee Smith and published by . This book was released on 2007 with total page 1184 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
