When The Waves Break

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Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves

Author : Alexander Babanin
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
ISBN 13 : 1139502727
Total Pages : 479 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (395 download)

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Book Synopsis Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves by : Alexander Babanin

Download or read book Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves written by Alexander Babanin and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2011-05-19 with total page 479 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

Clark Little

Author : Clark Little
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984859781
Total Pages : 241 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis Clark Little by : Clark Little

Download or read book Clark Little written by Clark Little and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2022-04-05 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Waves and Beaches

Author : Willard Bascom
Publisher : Anchor
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 528 pages
Book Rating : 4.:/5 (318 download)

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Book Synopsis Waves and Beaches by : Willard Bascom

Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Willard Bascom and published by Anchor. This book was released on 1980 with total page 528 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea

Author : Willard Bascom
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 426 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (91 download)

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Book Synopsis A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea by : Willard Bascom

Download or read book A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea written by Willard Bascom and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page 426 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

The Natural Navigator

Author : Tristan Gooley
Publisher : The Experiment
ISBN 13 : 1615191550
Total Pages : 320 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (151 download)

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Book Synopsis The Natural Navigator by : Tristan Gooley

Download or read book The Natural Navigator written by Tristan Gooley and published by The Experiment. This book was released on 2012-06-05 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the New York Times-bestselling author of The Secret World of Weather and The Lost Art of Reading Nature’s Signs, learn to tap into nature and notice the hidden clues all around you Before GPS, before the compass, and even before cartography, humankind was navigating. Now this singular guide helps us rediscover what our ancestors long understood—that a windswept tree, the depth of a puddle, or a trill of birdsong can help us find our way, if we know what to look and listen for. Adventurer and navigation expert Tristan Gooley unlocks the directional clues hidden in the sun, moon, stars, clouds, weather patterns, lengthening shadows, changing tides, plant growth, and the habits of wildlife. Rich with navigational anecdotes collected across ages, continents, and cultures, The Natural Navigator will help keep you on course and open your eyes to the wonders, large and small, of the natural world.

The Waves Break Gray

Author : Sibella Giorello
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780997749342
Total Pages : 288 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (493 download)

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Book Synopsis The Waves Break Gray by : Sibella Giorello

Download or read book The Waves Break Gray written by Sibella Giorello and published by . This book was released on 2016-09-20 with total page 288 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Everyone has a plan, until life crashes inRaleigh Harmon earned a brazen reputation during her years with the FBI. Now, having parted ways with the Bureau, she hopes to rebuild some of those broken relationships--including a new romance with alpha-male agent Jack Stephanson.But when a dead body literally crosses her path in the mountains of Washington state, Raleigh's forced to choose between her personal life and her forensic skills that can track a killer--a killer unlike any she's ever encountered, and a murder whose clues don't add up.As she realizes the killer will strike again, Raleigh decides the only way to stop him is to put herself at the top of the killer's list. With innocent lives on the line, and the FBI watching her every move, can Raleigh save another girl from a gruesome end--or will she only wind up with more regrets, and literal dead ends?

When Waves Break

Author : Allison Wells
Publisher : Ambassador International
ISBN 13 : 1620207400
Total Pages : 170 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (22 download)

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Book Synopsis When Waves Break by : Allison Wells

Download or read book When Waves Break written by Allison Wells and published by Ambassador International. This book was released on 2020-02-18 with total page 170 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: One summer, one night, one mistake, and everything changes for Eve and Juliette Nicholas. For the Nicholas twins, life is just beginning, until one summer of misguided love forces the twins to doubt everything they’ve ever believed. Eve and Juliette are the daughters of a preacher, raised to hold love in high esteem, although they may disagree on how to share it. As high school graduation looms, they must question the cost of love, and what it may mean for their futures. The summer of 1968 is one of change for both the Nicholas twins and the nation. With Martin Luther King, Jr.’s speech fresh in everyone’s minds, racial tensions are high and threaten to shake the very foundation that once held the twins together. Through it all, will the bond that Eve and Juliette share be broken? Can love truly endure all things? Or will their mistakes always haunt them? Set during a time of racial instability, When Waves Break sheds light on the equality and redemption we all have in Christ.

Physical Geology

Author : Steven Earle
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781537068824
Total Pages : 628 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (688 download)

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Book Synopsis Physical Geology by : Steven Earle

Download or read book Physical Geology written by Steven Earle and published by . This book was released on 2016-08-12 with total page 628 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is a discount Black and white version. Some images may be unclear, please see BCCampus website for the digital version.This book was born out of a 2014 meeting of earth science educators representing most of the universities and colleges in British Columbia, and nurtured by a widely shared frustration that many students are not thriving in courses because textbooks have become too expensive for them to buy. But the real inspiration comes from a fascination for the spectacular geology of western Canada and the many decades that the author spent exploring this region along with colleagues, students, family, and friends. My goal has been to provide an accessible and comprehensive guide to the important topics of geology, richly illustrated with examples from western Canada. Although this text is intended to complement a typical first-year course in physical geology, its contents could be applied to numerous other related courses.

Waves and Beaches

Author : Kim McCoy
Publisher : Patagonia
ISBN 13 : 9781938340956
Total Pages : 400 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (49 download)

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Book Synopsis Waves and Beaches by : Kim McCoy

Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Kim McCoy and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2021-03-16 with total page 400 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers, Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate Activists, and Those Who Love the Sea First published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. The original author, Willard Bascom, was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general public understanding of the awesome and complex power of the waves. This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent facts and anecdotes to update the book's relevance in the time of climate change. One of the most significant effects of global warming will be sea-level rise. What will this mean to waves and beaches, and what effects are we already seeing? New text and photos cover events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of 2005, and the 2011 earthquake and resulting devastation in Fukishima. As well as students, surfers, and the general public, this updated edition of a beloved classic is an essential handbook for climate scientists and ocean activists, providing clear explanations and detailed resources for the constant battle to preserve the shore.

Sandy Beach Morphodynamics

Author : Derek Jackson
Publisher : Elsevier
ISBN 13 : 0081029276
Total Pages : 814 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (81 download)

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Book Synopsis Sandy Beach Morphodynamics by : Derek Jackson

Download or read book Sandy Beach Morphodynamics written by Derek Jackson and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2020-05-20 with total page 814 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sandy beaches represent some of the most dynamic environments on Earth and examining their morphodynamic behaviour over different temporal and spatial scales is challenging, relying on multidisciplinary approaches and techniques. Sandy Beach Morphodynamics brings together the latest research on beach systems and their morphodynamics and the ways in which they are studied in 29 chapters that review the full spectrum of beach morphodynamics. The chapters are written by leading experts in the field and provide introductory level understanding of physical processes and resulting landforms, along with more advanced discussions.

The Wave

Author : Susan Casey
Publisher : Anchor Canada
ISBN 13 : 0385666683
Total Pages : 434 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (856 download)

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Book Synopsis The Wave by : Susan Casey

Download or read book The Wave written by Susan Casey and published by Anchor Canada. This book was released on 2011-05-31 with total page 434 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.

Waves Break My Fall

Author : Kendall McKenna
Publisher : Kmb Press
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (279 download)

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Book Synopsis Waves Break My Fall by : Kendall McKenna

Download or read book Waves Break My Fall written by Kendall McKenna and published by Kmb Press. This book was released on 2024-07-23 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Kage is a Marine, newly returned from Iraq and having difficulty adjusting to being home. He tries to decompress with a quiet, solo trip to Puerto Vallarta. Zach is newly graduated from college and facing the realities of adulthood and beginning his new career. Their mutual attraction is immediate and intense. Zach is undemanding and seems to understand what Kage is going through. Kage has the physical strength that Zach desires, as well as the strength of character to let him be his own man. Their summer vacation romance sizzles, but when the time arrives for Zach to return home, will either of them be willing-or able-to walk away?

The Surfboard Book

Author : Sean McCagh
Publisher : McCagh O'Neill Pty td
ISBN 13 : 0992267420
Total Pages : 154 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (922 download)

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Book Synopsis The Surfboard Book by : Sean McCagh

Download or read book The Surfboard Book written by Sean McCagh and published by McCagh O'Neill Pty td. This book was released on 2013 with total page 154 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: How Design Drives Performance Have you ever wondered how changing design will effect the performance of a surfboard, wanted to really understand what your shaper, surf shop or mates are talking about when they discuss bottom curve or rocker, or more importantly why a particular surfboard goes really well or struggles to perform in some situations? The Surfboard Book includes advice stories and design details from some of the most experienced and credible subject experts in the history of the surfboard in Simon Anderson, Dick Brewer, Steve Lis and Bob McTavish: each are known not only as surfboard shapers and designers but as innovators with a combined design experience approaching 200 years. The Surfboard Book explains: elements of surfboard shape and their effects on performance construction types: from traditional to modern sandwich construction important material properties including environmental issues basic types or classes of surfboard and how they perform how to go about choosing or specifying your next surfboard

Surf Science

Author : Tony Butt
Publisher : Alison Hodge Publishers
ISBN 13 : 9780906720899
Total Pages : 140 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (28 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Science by : Tony Butt

Download or read book Surf Science written by Tony Butt and published by Alison Hodge Publishers. This book was released on 2014-03-25 with total page 140 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don’t, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer’s point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don’t need a scientific background to read it – just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

All the Breaking Waves

Author : Kerry Lonsdale
Publisher : Lake Union Publishing
ISBN 13 : 9781503941830
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (418 download)

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Book Synopsis All the Breaking Waves by : Kerry Lonsdale

Download or read book All the Breaking Waves written by Kerry Lonsdale and published by Lake Union Publishing. This book was released on 2016 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "After a harrowing accident tore her family apart, Molly Brennan fled from the man she loved and the tragic mistake she made. Twelve years later, Molly has created a new life for herself and her eight-year-old daughter, Cassie. The art history professor crafts jewelry as unique and weathered as the surf-tumbled sea glass she collects, while raising her daughter in a safe and loving environment--something Molly never had. But when Cassie is plagued by horrific visions and debilitating nightmares, Molly is forced to return to the one place she swore she'd never move back to--home to Pacific Grove."--

Ocean Waves Breaking and Marine Aerosol Fluxes

Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN 13 : 0387690921
Total Pages : 332 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (876 download)

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Book Synopsis Ocean Waves Breaking and Marine Aerosol Fluxes by : Stanislaw R. Massel

Download or read book Ocean Waves Breaking and Marine Aerosol Fluxes written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2007-10-10 with total page 332 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book fills a gap in knowledge of breaking waves and their influence on the generation of marine fluxes from ocean surfaces. Based on published data as well as on the author's experience, the text explores in detail the relationship chain of breaking waves, whitecaps coverage, rate of wave energy dissipation, amount of aerosol fluxes rising from a given sea basin, and possible seasonal variations.