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Water Waves Of Finite Amplitude On A Sloping Beach
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Book Synopsis On the Breaking of Water Waves of Finite Amplitude on a Sloping Beach by : Harvey Philip Greenspan
Download or read book On the Breaking of Water Waves of Finite Amplitude on a Sloping Beach written by Harvey Philip Greenspan and published by . This book was released on 1957 with total page 32 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In recent paper Carrier + Greenspan showed that, within the framework of the non-linear shallow-water theory, there exist waves which do not break as they climb a sloping beach. The formation of a shock or bore is dependent on a variety of factors (wave shape, particle velocity) and, as yet, no general criteria for breaking have been found. Waves are considered which propagate shoreward into quiescent water; it is shown that any compressive wave (a wave of positive amplitude) which has a non-zero slope at the wave-front eventually breaks before reaching the coastline. In fact, an explicit relation is obtained between the initial conditions and the position where breaking occurs. (Author).
Book Synopsis WATER WAVES OF FINITE AMPLITUDE ON A SLOPING BEACH. by : G. F. CARRIER
Download or read book WATER WAVES OF FINITE AMPLITUDE ON A SLOPING BEACH. written by G. F. CARRIER and published by . This book was released on 1958 with total page 11 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Finite-amplitude, Shallow Water-waves of Periodically Recurring Form by : Cyril Jerome Galvin
Download or read book Finite-amplitude, Shallow Water-waves of Periodically Recurring Form written by Cyril Jerome Galvin and published by . This book was released on 1970 with total page 36 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Waves of Finite Amplitude in Still Water by : Kok Whye Chay
Download or read book Waves of Finite Amplitude in Still Water written by Kok Whye Chay and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Finite-Amplitude Solitary Water Waves by : C. J. Amick
Download or read book Finite-Amplitude Solitary Water Waves written by C. J. Amick and published by . This book was released on 1979 with total page 118 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This paper considers the existence problem for solutions of the free boundary value problem which arises from the question of the existence of solitary gravity waves, moving without changes of form, and with constant velocity, on the surface of ideal fluid in a horizontal canal of finite depth. The analysis imposes no restriction on either the slope or the amplitude of the wave, and we prove that there exists a connected set of solitary waves containing waves of all slope between 0 and pi/6. It is then proved that each of these solitary waves has finite mass, and, as a consequence, that F> 1, where F is the Froude number. This, in turn, tells us that the solitary wave decays faster than exp( -alpha abs.val.(x/h), where alpha is an element or (0, alpha-bar) and 1/alpha-bar tam(alph-bar) = f-squared. Finally, it is shown that, in a certain limit, these solitary waves converge to a solitary stokes wave of greatest height, and the validity of stokes' conjecture for solitary waves is considered, but not resolved. (Author).
Book Synopsis Water Waves on a Shallow Sloping Beach by : Kurt Otto Friedrichs
Download or read book Water Waves on a Shallow Sloping Beach written by Kurt Otto Friedrichs and published by . This book was released on 1947 with total page 42 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Higher Approximation to Nonlinear Water Waves and the Limiting Heights of Cnoidal, Solitary, and Stokes' Waves by : Edmund V. Laitone
Download or read book Higher Approximation to Nonlinear Water Waves and the Limiting Heights of Cnoidal, Solitary, and Stokes' Waves written by Edmund V. Laitone and published by . This book was released on 1963 with total page 118 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: To obtain the first and second approximations to solitary and cnoidal waves the shallow water expansion method of Friedrichs and Keller is carried out to the fourth order. It is shown that the rigorous first approximation to these amplitude waves of permanent form is identical to the solution first given by Korteweg and deVries in 1895. The second approximation however results in some new expressions for predicting the behavior of long waves in shallow water. Limiting amplitude is found to be 8/11 of the free water depth for the solitary wave. The third approximation to Stokes waves in water of finite depth is verified by the use of the classical small-perturbation expansion method. For finite amplitude waves the series expansion is found to be in terms of a parameter most suitable for wavelengths shorter than 8 times the depth. Rather severe restrictions inherent in the well-known analogy between the nonlinear shallow water flow and two-dimensional perfect gas flow are pointed out. (Author).
Book Synopsis Finite Amplitude Edge Waves on a Beach by : Fraser Lee Murrell
Download or read book Finite Amplitude Edge Waves on a Beach written by Fraser Lee Murrell and published by . This book was released on 1988 with total page 458 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Transformation of Finite Amplitude Water Waves Over a Step by : Nishan Dulgerian
Download or read book Transformation of Finite Amplitude Water Waves Over a Step written by Nishan Dulgerian and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 104 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis A Theory on Higher-order Approximation to Finite-amplitude Shallow-water Waves by : Hiroshi Saeki
Download or read book A Theory on Higher-order Approximation to Finite-amplitude Shallow-water Waves written by Hiroshi Saeki and published by . This book was released on 1972* with total page 24 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport by : R. E. Meyer
Download or read book Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport written by R. E. Meyer and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2013-09-24 with total page 471 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians. The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.
Book Synopsis Runup of Single Waves on a Sloping Beach by : Lester Q. Spielvogel
Download or read book Runup of Single Waves on a Sloping Beach written by Lester Q. Spielvogel and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 42 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Finite-Amplitude, Shallow Water-Waves of Periodically Recurring Form by : Cyril Jerome Galvin
Download or read book Finite-Amplitude, Shallow Water-Waves of Periodically Recurring Form written by Cyril Jerome Galvin and published by . This book was released on 19?? with total page 32 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Numerical Modeling of Water Waves by : Pengzhi Lin
Download or read book Numerical Modeling of Water Waves written by Pengzhi Lin and published by CRC Press. This book was released on 2008-04-30 with total page 500 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Modelling large-scale wave fields and their interaction with coastal and offshore structures has become much more feasible over the last two decades with increases in computer speeds. Wave modelling can be viewed as an extension of wave theory, a mature and widely published field, applied to practical engineering through the use of computer tools.
Download or read book Naval Research Reviews written by and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves by : Chiang C. Mei
Download or read book The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1989 with total page 770 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Book Synopsis Proceedings of the XII All Russian Scientific Conference on Current Issues of Continuum Mechanics and Celestial Mechanics by : Maxim Yu. Orlov
Download or read book Proceedings of the XII All Russian Scientific Conference on Current Issues of Continuum Mechanics and Celestial Mechanics written by Maxim Yu. Orlov and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on with total page 382 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
