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The Science Of Ocean Waves
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Book Synopsis The Science of Ocean Waves by : J. B. Zirker
Download or read book The Science of Ocean Waves written by J. B. Zirker and published by JHU Press. This book was released on 2013-12-18 with total page 263 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Zirker is that rare animal who can both communicate the most demanding technical detail and make it accessible."--New Scientist
Book Synopsis Wind Generated Ocean Waves by : I.R. Young
Download or read book Wind Generated Ocean Waves written by I.R. Young and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 1999-03-23 with total page 307 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Book Synopsis The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind by : Peter Janssen
Download or read book The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind written by Peter Janssen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-10-28 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Book Synopsis Extreme Ocean Waves by : Efim Pelinovsky
Download or read book Extreme Ocean Waves written by Efim Pelinovsky and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2008-06-27 with total page 200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Extreme, freak or rogue waves are produced by a number of physical mechanisms that focus the water-wave energy into a small area, due to wave instability, chaotic behaviour, dispersion (frequency modulation), refraction (presence of variable currents or bottom topography), soliton interactions, etc. During the past thirty years a number of physical models of the rogue wave phenomenon have been intensively developed. Numerous experimental, statistical and theoretical investigations are intended to understand the physics of the huge wave formation, its relation to the environmental conditions and to provide a freak wave design for engineering purposes. The book details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of freak waves due to modulation instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of rogue wave generation in deep water and in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between observations and freak wave theories. The book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Book Synopsis Ocean! Waves for All by : Stacy McAnulty
Download or read book Ocean! Waves for All written by Stacy McAnulty and published by Henry Holt and Company (BYR). This book was released on 2020-05-05 with total page 21 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From writer Stacy McAnulty and illustrator David Litchfield, Ocean! Waves for All is a light-hearted nonfiction picture book about the formation and history of the ocean, told from the perspective of the ocean itself. Dude. Ocean is incredible. Atlantic, Pacific, Artic, Indian, Southern—it's all excellent Ocean! Not part of any nation, his waves are for all. And under those waves, man, he holds so many secrets. With characteristic humor and charm, Stacy McAnulty channels the voice of Ocean in this next "autobiography" in the Our Universe series. Rich with kid-friendly facts and beautifully brought to life by David Litchfield, this is an equally charming and irresistible companion to Earth! My First 4.54 Billion Years; Sun! One in a Billion; and Moon! Earth's Best Friend.
Download or read book Ocean Waves written by Michel K. Ochi and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2005-07-21 with total page 332 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves observed in the ocean are extremely irregular and, from a physics standpoint, it seems impossible to describe this chaotic situation. Scientists can describe the situation by means of a stochastic approach. This book describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis. This method provides a route to predicting the characteristics of random ocean waves--information vital for the design and safe operation of ships and ocean structures. Assuming a basic knowledge of probability theory, the book begins with a chapter describing the essential elements of wind-generated random seas from the stochastic point of view. The following three chapters introduce spectral analysis techniques, probabilistic predictions of wave amplitudes, wave height and periodicity. A further four chapters discuss sea severity, extreme sea state, the directional wave energy spreading in random seas and special wave events such as wave breaking and group phenomena. Finally the stochastic properties of non-Gaussian waves are presented. Useful appendices and an extensive reference list are included. Examples of practical applications of the theories presented can be found throughout the text. This book will be suitable as a text for graduate students of naval, ocean and coastal engineering. It will also serve as a useful reference for research scientists and engineers working in this field.
Book Synopsis Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters by : Leo H. Holthuijsen
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Book Synopsis Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems by : Johannes Falnes
Download or read book Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems written by Johannes Falnes and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2020-05-28 with total page 319 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.
Download or read book Swell written by Evan Slater and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2012-05-09 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.
Book Synopsis Ocean Surface Waves by : Stanislaw R. Massel
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves written by Stanislaw R. Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996 with total page 514 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Book Synopsis Radar Imaging of the Ocean Waves by : Mikhail B. Kanevsky
Download or read book Radar Imaging of the Ocean Waves written by Mikhail B. Kanevsky and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2008-09-15 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is dedicated to studying the ocean with radar tools, in particular, with space radars. Being intended mainly for the scientists preoccupied with the problem (as well as senior course students), it concentrates and generalizes the knowledge scattered over specialized journals. The significant part of the book contains the results obtained by the author. * Systematically collects and describes the approaches used by different laboratories and institutions * Deals with the physics of radar imagery and specifically with ocean surface imagery. * Useful for students and researchers specializing in the area of ocean remote sensing using airborne or space-borne radars, both SAR and RAR
Book Synopsis Waves in the Ocean by : P.H. LeBlond
Download or read book Waves in the Ocean written by P.H. LeBlond and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 1981-01-01 with total page 617 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is a book which will be welcomed not only by researchers and engineers, but also by teachers and students, as it contains the only comprehensive review of the dynamics of ocean waves. Existing books are now either out of date or restricted to specialized aspects of the subject, whereas this book covers all types of ocean waves, ranging from capillary to planetary waves. Because of its completeness of coverage, its use of elementary mathematics and the provision of numerous problems and exercises, the book will be an indispensable text for everyone. It is completed by a very lengthy bibliography which includes many references to the Russian literature.
Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Kim McCoy and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2021-03-16 with total page 400 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Bestselling Classic Updated for Surfers, Sailors, Oceanographers, Climate Activists, and Those Who Love the Sea First published in 1963 and updated in 1979, this classic was an essential handbook for anyone who studies, surfs, protects, or is fascinated by the ocean. The original author, Willard Bascom, was a master of the subject and included a wealth of information, based on theory and statistics, but also anecdotal observation and personal experience. It brought to the general public understanding of the awesome and complex power of the waves. This revision from Kim McCoy adds recent facts and anecdotes to update the book's relevance in the time of climate change. One of the most significant effects of global warming will be sea-level rise. What will this mean to waves and beaches, and what effects are we already seeing? New text and photos cover events such as the Indian Ocean tsunami of 2004, Hurricane Katrina flooding of 2005, and the 2011 earthquake and resulting devastation in Fukishima. As well as students, surfers, and the general public, this updated edition of a beloved classic is an essential handbook for climate scientists and ocean activists, providing clear explanations and detailed resources for the constant battle to preserve the shore.
Book Synopsis The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves by : Chiang C. Mei
Download or read book The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves written by Chiang C. Mei and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1989 with total page 770 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Book Synopsis The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean by : Kim Dwinell
Download or read book The Science of Surfing: A Surfside Girls Guide to the Ocean written by Kim Dwinell and published by Top Shelf Productions. This book was released on 2021-12-15 with total page 116 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The ocean is packed with plants, animals, water… and science! Ride the waves of knowledge with Sam and Jade as they explain all about the amazing wonders of the sea, and have a blast doing it. Have you ever wondered why the ocean has waves? Why the tide goes in and out? And how can coral be alive when it looks like a rock? From the pages of the beloved graphic novel series, join the Surfside Girls, Sam and Jade, for a great investigation into everything that makes the ocean so cool: from moon cycles and king tides, to why a wave breaks, to otters in kelp forests… with plenty of fun and jokes along the way. Plus, there’s a whole step-by-step chapter on how to surf! The Science of Surfing is the coolest way to take a beach vacation and learn at the same time.
Download or read book Clark Little written by Clark Little and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2022-04-05 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.
Book Synopsis Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists by : Robert George Dean
Download or read book Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists written by Robert George Dean and published by Springer Science & Business. This book was released on 1991 with total page 376 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An introduction to classical water wave theory for college seniors or first-year graduate students. Almost all the necessary mathematical and engineering concepts are either presented or derived in the text, making it also useful as a reference for practicing engineers. Paper edition (0421-3), $28. Acidic paper. Annotation copyrighted by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR
