Political And Sartorial Styles

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Political and sartorial styles

Author : Kevin A. Morrison
Publisher : Manchester University Press
ISBN 13 : 1526153068
Total Pages : 483 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (261 download)

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Book Synopsis Political and sartorial styles by : Kevin A. Morrison

Download or read book Political and sartorial styles written by Kevin A. Morrison and published by Manchester University Press. This book was released on 2023-02-14 with total page 483 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Starting with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style, this collection explores the relationships among political theory, dress, and self-presentation during a period in which imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form. Organised under three thematic clusters, the volume’s chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by West India regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentations of members of parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters and caricatures in novels, paintings, and political cartoon. With its interdisciplinary approach, the book will appeal to nineteenth-century cultural and social historians and literary critics as well as advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students whose research and teaching interests include gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism.

Fashion and Politics

Author : Djurdja Bartlett
Publisher : Yale University Press
ISBN 13 : 030023886X
Total Pages : 241 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (2 download)

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Book Synopsis Fashion and Politics by : Djurdja Bartlett

Download or read book Fashion and Politics written by Djurdja Bartlett and published by Yale University Press. This book was released on 2019-01-01 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this incisive book, leaders from international fashion research and artistic practices probe the nuanced relationship between fashion and politics.

Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe

Author : Erin Griffey
Publisher : Amsterdam University Press
ISBN 13 : 904853724X
Total Pages : 337 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (485 download)

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Book Synopsis Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe by : Erin Griffey

Download or read book Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe written by Erin Griffey and published by Amsterdam University Press. This book was released on 2019-07-05 with total page 337 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For women at the early modern courts, clothing and jewellery were essential elements in their political arsenal, enabling them to signal their dynastic value, to promote loyalty to their marital court and to advance political agendas. This is the first collection of essays to examine how elite women in early modern Europe marshalled clothing and jewellery for political ends. With essays encompassing women who traversed courts in Denmark, England, France, Germany, Habsburg Austria, Italy, Portugal, Spain and Sweden, the contributions cover a broad range of elite women from different courts and religious backgrounds as well as varying noble ranks.

Liberated Threads

Author : Tanisha C. Ford
Publisher : UNC Press Books
ISBN 13 : 1469625164
Total Pages : 273 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (696 download)

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Book Synopsis Liberated Threads by : Tanisha C. Ford

Download or read book Liberated Threads written by Tanisha C. Ford and published by UNC Press Books. This book was released on 2015-09-14 with total page 273 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the civil rights and Black Power era of the 1960s through antiapartheid activism in the 1980s and beyond, black women have used their clothing, hair, and style not simply as a fashion statement but as a powerful tool of resistance. Whether using stiletto heels as weapons to protect against police attacks or incorporating African-themed designs into everyday wear, these fashion-forward women celebrated their identities and pushed for equality. In this thought-provoking book, Tanisha C. Ford explores how and why black women in places as far-flung as New York City, Atlanta, London, and Johannesburg incorporated style and beauty culture into their activism. Focusing on the emergence of the "soul style" movement—represented in clothing, jewelry, hairstyles, and more—Liberated Threads shows that black women's fashion choices became galvanizing symbols of gender and political liberation. Drawing from an eclectic archive, Ford offers a new way of studying how black style and Soul Power moved beyond national boundaries, sparking a global fashion phenomenon. Following celebrities, models, college students, and everyday women as they moved through fashion boutiques, beauty salons, and record stores, Ford narrates the fascinating intertwining histories of Black Freedom and fashion.

Ready-Made Democracy

Author : Michael Zakim
Publisher : University of Chicago Press
ISBN 13 : 0226977951
Total Pages : 306 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (269 download)

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Book Synopsis Ready-Made Democracy by : Michael Zakim

Download or read book Ready-Made Democracy written by Michael Zakim and published by University of Chicago Press. This book was released on 2003 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ready-Made Democracy explores the history of men's dress in America to consider how capitalism and democracy emerged at the center of American life during the century between the Revolution and the Civil War. Michael Zakim demonstrates how clothing initially attained a significant place in the American political imagination on the eve of Independence. At a time when household production was a popular expression of civic virtue, homespun clothing was widely regarded as a reflection of America's most cherished republican values: simplicity, industriousness, frugality, and independence. By the early nineteenth century, homespun began to disappear from the American material landscape. Exhortations of industry and modesty, however, remained a common fixture of public life. In fact, they found expression in the form of the business suit. Here, Zakim traces the evolution of homespun clothing into its ostensible opposite—the woolen coats, vests, and pantaloons that were "ready-made" for sale and wear across the country. In doing so, he demonstrates how traditional notions of work and property actually helped give birth to the modern industrial order. For Zakim, the history of men's dress in America mirrored this transformation of the nation's social and material landscape: profit-seeking in newly expanded markets, organizing a waged labor system in the city, shopping at "single-prices," and standardizing a business persona. In illuminating the critical links between politics, economics, and fashion in antebellum America, Ready-Made Democracy will prove essential to anyone interested in the history of the United States and in the creation of modern culture in general.

The Right to Dress

Author : Giorgio Riello
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
ISBN 13 : 1108643523
Total Pages : 525 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (86 download)

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Book Synopsis The Right to Dress by : Giorgio Riello

Download or read book The Right to Dress written by Giorgio Riello and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2019-01-17 with total page 525 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the first global history of dress regulation and its place in broader debates around how human life and societies should be visualised and materialised. Sumptuary laws were a tool on the part of states to regulate not only manufacturing systems and moral economies via the medium of expenditure and consumption of clothing but also banquets, festivities and funerals. Leading scholars on Asian, Latin American, Ottoman and European history shed new light on how and why items of dress became key aspirational goods across society, how they were lobbied for and marketed, and whether or not sumptuary laws were implemented by cities, states and empires to restrict or channel trade and consumption. Their findings reveal the significance of sumptuary laws in medieval and early modern societies as a site of contestation between individuals and states and how dress as an expression of identity developed as a modern 'human right'.

Dress Codes

Author : Richard Thompson Ford
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1501180088
Total Pages : 464 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (11 download)

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Book Synopsis Dress Codes by : Richard Thompson Ford

Download or read book Dress Codes written by Richard Thompson Ford and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2022-01-18 with total page 464 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A law professor and cultural critic offers an eye-opening exploration of the laws of fashion throughout history, from the middle ages to the present day, examining the canons, mores and customs of clothing rules that we often take for granted

The International Politics of Fashion

Author : Andreas Behnke
Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 1317656237
Total Pages : 222 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (176 download)

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Book Synopsis The International Politics of Fashion by : Andreas Behnke

Download or read book The International Politics of Fashion written by Andreas Behnke and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2016-07-07 with total page 222 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book seeks to address and fill a puzzling omission in contemporary critical IR scholarship. Following on from the aesthetic turn in IR, critical and ‘postmodern’ IR has produced an impressive array of studies into movies, literature, music and art and the way these media produce, mediate, and represent international politics. By contrast, the proponents of the aesthetic turn have overlooked fashion as a source of knowledge about global politics. Yet stories about the political role of fashion abound in the news media. Margaret Thatcher used dress to define her political image, and more recently the fascination with Michelle Obama, Carla Bruni and other women in similar positions, and the discussions about the appropriateness of their wardrobes, regularly makes the news. In Sudan, a female writer and activist successfully challenged the government over her right to wear trousers in public and in Europe, the debate on women’s headscarves has politicised a garment item and turned it into a symbol of fundamentalism and oppression. In response, the contributors to this book investigate the politics of fashion from a variety of perspectives, addressing theoretical as well as empirical issues, establishing the critical study of fashion and its protagonists as a central contribution to the aesthetic turn in international politics. The politics of fashion go beyond these examples of the uses and abuses of textiles and fabrics for political purposes, extending into its very ‘grammar’ and vocabulary. This book will be a unique contribution to the field and will be of interest to students and scholars of international relations, critical IR theory and popular culture and world politics.

Dressed for Freedom

Author : Einav Rabinovitch-Fox
Publisher : University of Illinois Press
ISBN 13 : 0252052943
Total Pages : 368 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (52 download)

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Book Synopsis Dressed for Freedom by : Einav Rabinovitch-Fox

Download or read book Dressed for Freedom written by Einav Rabinovitch-Fox and published by University of Illinois Press. This book was released on 2021-11-16 with total page 368 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Often condemned as a form of oppression, fashion could and did allow women to express modern gender identities and promote feminist ideas. Einav Rabinovitch-Fox examines how clothes empowered women, and particularly women barred from positions of influence due to race or class. Moving from 1890s shirtwaists through the miniskirts and unisex styles of the 1970s, Rabinovitch-Fox shows how the rise of mass media culture made fashion a vehicle for women to assert claims over their bodies, femininity, and social roles. She also highlights how trends in women’s sartorial practices expressed ideas of independence and equality. As women employed new clothing styles, they expanded feminist activism beyond formal organizations and movements and reclaimed fashion as a realm of pleasure, power, and feminist consciousness. A fascinating account of clothing as an everyday feminist practice, Dressed for Freedom brings fashion into discussions of American feminism during the long twentieth century.

Slaves to Fashion

Author : Monica L. Miller
Publisher : Duke University Press
ISBN 13 : 0822391511
Total Pages : 409 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (223 download)

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Book Synopsis Slaves to Fashion by : Monica L. Miller

Download or read book Slaves to Fashion written by Monica L. Miller and published by Duke University Press. This book was released on 2009-10-08 with total page 409 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Slaves to Fashion is a pioneering cultural history of the black dandy, from his emergence in Enlightenment England to his contemporary incarnations in the cosmopolitan art worlds of London and New York. It is populated by sartorial impresarios such as Julius Soubise, a freed slave who sometimes wore diamond-buckled, red-heeled shoes as he circulated through the social scene of eighteenth-century London, and Yinka Shonibare, a prominent Afro-British artist who not only styles himself as a fop but also creates ironic commentaries on black dandyism in his work. Interpreting performances and representations of black dandyism in particular cultural settings and literary and visual texts, Monica L. Miller emphasizes the importance of sartorial style to black identity formation in the Atlantic diaspora. Dandyism was initially imposed on black men in eighteenth-century England, as the Atlantic slave trade and an emerging culture of conspicuous consumption generated a vogue in dandified black servants. “Luxury slaves” tweaked and reworked their uniforms, and were soon known for their sartorial novelty and sometimes flamboyant personalities. Tracing the history of the black dandy forward to contemporary celebrity incarnations such as Andre 3000 and Sean Combs, Miller explains how black people became arbiters of style and how they have historically used the dandy’s signature tools—clothing, gesture, and wit—to break down limiting identity markers and propose new ways of fashioning political and social possibility in the black Atlantic world. With an aplomb worthy of her iconographic subject, she considers the black dandy in relation to nineteenth-century American literature and drama, W. E. B. Du Bois’s reflections on black masculinity and cultural nationalism, the modernist aesthetics of the Harlem Renaissance, and representations of black cosmopolitanism in contemporary visual art.

FashionEast

Author : Djurdja Bartlett
Publisher : MIT Press
ISBN 13 : 0262026503
Total Pages : 339 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (62 download)

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Book Synopsis FashionEast by : Djurdja Bartlett

Download or read book FashionEast written by Djurdja Bartlett and published by MIT Press. This book was released on 2010-10-08 with total page 339 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A richly illustrated, comprehensive study of fashion under socialism, from state-sponsored prototypes to unofficial imitations of Paris fashion. The idea of fashion under socialism conjures up images of babushka headscarves and black market blue jeans. And yet, as Djurdja Bartlett shows in this groundbreaking book, the socialist East had an intimate relationship with fashion. Official antagonism—which cast fashion as frivolous and anti-revolutionary—eventually gave way to grudging acceptance and creeping consumerism. Bartlett outlines three phases in socialist fashion, and illustrates them with abundant images from magazines of the period: postrevolutionary utopian dress, official state-sanctioned socialist fashion, and samizdat-style everyday fashion. Utopian dress, ranging from the geometric abstraction of the constructivists under Bolshevism in the Soviet Union to the no-frills desexualized uniform of a factory worker in Czechoslovakia, reflected the revolutionary urge for a clean break with the past. The highly centralized socialist fashion system, part of Stalinist industrialization, offered official prototypes of high fashion that were never available in stores—mythical images of smart and luxurious dresses that symbolized the economic progress that socialist regimes dreamed of. Everyday fashion, starting in the 1950s, was an unofficial, do-it-yourself enterprise: Western fashions obtained through semiclandestine channels or sewn at home. The state tolerated the demand for Western fashion, promising the burgeoning middle class consumer goods in exchange for political loyalty. Bartlett traces the progress of socialist fashion in the Soviet Union, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, East Germany, Poland, and Yugoslavia, drawing on state-sponsored socialist women's magazines, etiquette books, socialist manuals on dress, private archives, and her own interviews with designers, fashion editors, and other key figures. Fashion, she suggests, with all its ephemerality and dynamism, was in perpetual conflict with the socialist regimes' fear of change and need for control. It was, to echo the famous first sentence from the Communist Manifesto, the spectre that haunted socialism until the end.

The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies

Author : Eugenia Paulicelli
Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 0429554966
Total Pages : 532 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (295 download)

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Book Synopsis The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies by : Eugenia Paulicelli

Download or read book The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies written by Eugenia Paulicelli and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2021-09-19 with total page 532 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe. Fashion and clothing are part of material and visual culture, cultural memory, and heritage; they contribute to shaping the way people see themselves, interact, and consume. For each of the volume’s eight parts, scholars from across the world and a variety of disciplines offer analytical tools for further research. Never neglecting the interconnectedness of disciplines and domains, these original contributions survey specific topics and critically discuss the leading views in their areas. They include discursive and reflective pieces, as well as discussions of original empirical work, and contributors include established leaders in the field, rising stars, and new voices, including practioner and industry voices. This is a comprehensive overview of the field, ideal not only for undergraduate and postgraduate fashion studies students, but also for researchers and students in communication studies, the humanities, gender and critical race studies, social sciences, and fashion design and business.

Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America

Author :
Publisher : Univ of North Carolina Press
ISBN 13 : 0807834874
Total Pages : 306 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (78 download)

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Book Synopsis Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America by :

Download or read book Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America written by and published by Univ of North Carolina Press. This book was released on 2011 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America

The First Book of Fashion

Author : Ulinka Rublack
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1474249906
Total Pages : 421 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (742 download)

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Book Synopsis The First Book of Fashion by : Ulinka Rublack

Download or read book The First Book of Fashion written by Ulinka Rublack and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2021-02-11 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This captivating book reproduces arguably the most extraordinary primary source documents in fashion history. Providing a revealing window onto the Renaissance, they chronicle how style-conscious accountant Matthäus Schwarz and his son Veit Konrad experienced life through clothes, and climbed the social ladder through fastidious management of self-image. These bourgeois dandies' agenda resonates as powerfully today as it did in the sixteenth century: one has to dress to impress, and dress to impress they did. The Schwarzes recorded their sartorial triumphs as well as failures in life in a series of portraits by illuminists over 60 years, which have been comprehensively reproduced in full color for the first time. These exquisite illustrations are accompanied by the Schwarzes' fashion-focussed yet at times deeply personal captions, which render the pair the world's first fashion bloggers and pioneers of everyday portraiture. The First Book of Fashion demonstrates how dress – seemingly both ephemeral and trivial – is a potent tool in the right hands. Beyond this, it colorfully recaptures the experience of Renaissance life and reveals the importance of clothing to the aesthetics and every day culture of the period. Historians Ulinka Rublack's and Maria Hayward's insightful commentaries create an unparalleled portrait of sixteenth-century dress that is both strikingly modern and thorough in its description of a true Renaissance fashionista's wardrobe. This first English translation also includes a bespoke pattern by TONY award-winning costume designer and dress historian Jenny Tiramani, from which readers can recreate one of Schwarz's most elaborate and politically significant outfits.

Gender, Politics, News

Author : Karen Ross
Publisher : John Wiley & Sons
ISBN 13 : 1118561643
Total Pages : 240 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (185 download)

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Book Synopsis Gender, Politics, News by : Karen Ross

Download or read book Gender, Politics, News written by Karen Ross and published by John Wiley & Sons. This book was released on 2017-01-30 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Gender, Politics, News: A Game of Three Sides explores the role of gender in the broader processes of political communication The only contemporary book focusing on the relationships between gender, politics, and news media which takes a global perspective An analysis of political journalism as a practice and the development of the field in terms of gendered workplace cultures Offers a solid framework for understanding women’s political representation, including real world case studies of women’s campaigns for the top political job across a range of different geographies and contexts Coverage of hot-button issues, such as political scandal and the role of new and social media in politics and elections, makes this a highly relevant and current work with resonances for a wide audience

Fashioning the Afropolis

Author : Kerstin Pinther
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN 13 : 135017954X
Total Pages : 210 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (51 download)

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Book Synopsis Fashioning the Afropolis by : Kerstin Pinther

Download or read book Fashioning the Afropolis written by Kerstin Pinther and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2022-07-14 with total page 210 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “A revelation. Reclaiming fashion from its European history.” – Shane White With a focus on sub-Saharan Africa, Fashioning the Afropolis provides a range of innovative perspectives on global fashion, design, dress, photography, and the body in some of the major cities, with a focus on Lagos, Johannesburg, Dakar, and Douala. It contributes to the ongoing debates around the globalization of fashion and fashion theory by exploring fashion as a genuine urban phenomenon on the continent and among its diasporas. To date, “fashion” and “city” have not been systematically related to each other in the African context and, for too long, a western-centric gaze has dominated scholarship, resulting in the perception of Africa as provincial and its visual arts and textile cultures as static and folkloristic. This perspective is all the more distorted, given Africa's rich sartorial past. With a huge number of tailors ready to adapt and renew clothing, reshaping garments into contemporary styles, and many cities in Africa becoming hot-spots for a steadily growing and well-connected scene of fashion designers in the past 20 years, the time is ripe for a reevaluation and reconsideration of the fashionscapes of Africa. Leading scholars offer an updated empirical and theoretical foundation on which to base new and exciting research on sub-Saharan fashion, challenging perceptions and offering new insights.

Women and Gender in Twentieth-Century China

Author : Paul J. Bailey
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1137029684
Total Pages : 208 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (37 download)

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Book Synopsis Women and Gender in Twentieth-Century China by : Paul J. Bailey

Download or read book Women and Gender in Twentieth-Century China written by Paul J. Bailey and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2012-08-29 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Paul J. Bailey provides the first analytical study in English of Chinese women's experiences during China's turbulent twentieth century. Incorporating the very latest specialized research, and drawing upon Chinese cinema and autobiographical memoirs, this fascinating narrative account: - Explores the impact of political, social and cultural change on women's lives, and how Chinese women responded to such developments - Charts the evolution of gender discourses during this period - Illuminates both change and continuity in gender discourse and practice Approachable and authoritative, this is an essential overview for students, teachers and scholars of gender history, and anyone with an interest in modern Chinese history.