Just A Boy Who Loves Surfing

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Denali

Author : Ben Moon
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0525505415
Total Pages : 290 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (255 download)

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Book Synopsis Denali by : Ben Moon

Download or read book Denali written by Ben Moon and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2020-01-14 with total page 290 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "....a very sweet dog story" -- Outside The story of a dog, his human, and the friendship that saved both of their lives. When Ben Moon moved from the Midwest to Oregon, he hadn’t planned on getting a dog. But when he first met the soulful gaze of a rescue pup in a shelter, Ben instantly felt a connection, and his friendship with Denali was born. The two of them set out on the road together, on an adventure that would take them across the American west and through some of the best years of their lives. But when Ben was diagnosed with colorectal cancer at age 29, he faced a difficult battle with the disease, and Denali never once left his side until they were back out surfing and climbing crags. It was only a short time later that Denali was struck by the same disease, and Ben had the chance to return the favor. Denali is the story of this powerful friendship that shaped Ben and Denali’s lives, showing the strength and love that we give and receive when we have our friends by our side.

Let My People Go Surfing

Author : Yvon Chouinard
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 1101201223
Total Pages : 276 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (12 download)

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Book Synopsis Let My People Go Surfing by : Yvon Chouinard

Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 276 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now. From the Trade Paperback edition.

The History of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 0811856003
Total Pages : 498 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (118 download)

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Book Synopsis The History of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2010-09 with total page 498 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Just Add Water

Author : Clay Marzo
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 0544256212
Total Pages : 293 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (442 download)

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Book Synopsis Just Add Water by : Clay Marzo

Download or read book Just Add Water written by Clay Marzo and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2015 with total page 293 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the best freestyle surfer in the world, an inspiring and moving memoir about his ascendance to the top of the surfing world while struggling for most of his young life with undiagnosed Asperger's syndrome Clay Marzo has an almost preternatural gift with a surfboard. From his first moments underwater (he learned to swim at two months old) to his first ventures atop his father's surfboard as a toddler, it was obvious that Marzo's single-minded focus on all things surfing was unique. But not until late in his teens, when this surfing phenom was diagnosed with Asperger's syndrome, did the deeper reasons for his obsession--and his astonishing gift for surfing--becomeclear. Just Add Water is the remarkable story of Marzo's rise to the top of the pro surfing world--and the personal trials he overcame in making it there. Marzo endured a difficult childhood. He was a colicky baby who his mother found could be soothed only with water. Later, as he entered school, his undiagnosed Asperger's made it tough for him to relate to his peers and fit in, but his relationship with the wave was elemental. Marzo could always turn to surfing, the only place where he truly feltat peace. Unflinching and inspiring,Just Add Wateris a brave memoir from a one-of-a-kind surfing savant who has electrified fans around the world with his gift and whose story speaks boldly to the hope and ultimate triumph of the human spirit.

AFROSURF

Author : Mami Wata
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984860410
Total Pages : 320 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis AFROSURF by : Mami Wata

Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.

Surf Shacks

Author : Matt Titone
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559071
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (59 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Shacks by : Matt Titone

Download or read book Surf Shacks written by Matt Titone and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2017 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many abodes can fall under the label of surf shack: New York City apartments, cabins nestled next to national parks, or tiny Hawaiian huts. Surfing communities are overflowing with creativity, innovation, and rich personas. Surf Shacks takes a deeper look at surfers' homes and artistic habits. Glimpses of record collections, strolls through backyard gardens, or a peek into a painter's studio provide insight into surfers' lives both on and off shore. From the remote Hawaiian nook of filmmaker Jess Bianchi to the woodsy Japanese paradise that the former CEO of Surfrider Foundation in Japan, Hiromi Masubara, calls home to the converted bus that Ryan Lovelace claims as his domicile and his transport, every space has a unique tale. The moments that these vibrant personalities spend away from the swell and the froth are both captivating and nuanced.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156032513
Total Pages : 820 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (325 download)

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Book Synopsis The Encyclopedia of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Surfing and Health

Author : Dorian Paskowitz, M.d.
Publisher : Createspace Independent Publishing Platform
ISBN 13 : 9781541034198
Total Pages : 366 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (341 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing and Health by : Dorian Paskowitz, M.d.

Download or read book Surfing and Health written by Dorian Paskowitz, M.d. and published by Createspace Independent Publishing Platform. This book was released on 2017-01-22 with total page 366 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Doc Paskowitz started surfing in the Gulf of Mexico on Galveston Island in 1930. He's 93, and he's still surfing ( now riding in heaven) While he would never agree, Doc can be considered one of the earliest pioneers of the shape of today's surf culture. He spent nearly 25 years on the road, living in a succession of used campers. It is, quite possibly, the world's longest surf trip. He and his wife raised nine children in those campers, soaking them in the ocean and their idea of how life should be lived. Take a trip with Doc Paskowitz and his family. This easy read is honest and can help you understand his passion for Surfing and Health,

Deep Horizon

Author : John Self
Publisher : iUniverse
ISBN 13 : 059526932X
Total Pages : 178 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (952 download)

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Book Synopsis Deep Horizon by : John Self

Download or read book Deep Horizon written by John Self and published by iUniverse. This book was released on 2003-04-22 with total page 178 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: To Danny, Joel (fearless of sharks) and Steve of Daytona Beach, and Raul of Long Beach, surfing is first and foremost. The surfers lives unfold in adventure as well as misadventure and romance. Surfer girls follow the young surfers from beach to beach. Some of them find marriage relationships along the way. These surfers' adventures involve Captain Mac's boat and Raul's airplane as well as surfing. The surfers experience driving through hurricanes after the police are gone from the highways, plane crashes, title waves and boat wrecks and surfing in the wake of storms. They chase the storm's wake to surf the killer surf. They surf around the world and the story climaxes in Palm Beach after Hurricane Floyd moves off the South Florida Coast.

The World Stormrider Surf Guide

Author : Bruce Sutherland
Publisher : Low Pressure Publishing
ISBN 13 : 9781908520449
Total Pages : 446 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (24 download)

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Book Synopsis The World Stormrider Surf Guide by : Bruce Sutherland

Download or read book The World Stormrider Surf Guide written by Bruce Sutherland and published by Low Pressure Publishing. This book was released on 2018-10-15 with total page 446 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This mammoth book is the largest collection of surf-spot information ever compiled, with detailed analysis of the surf spots, swell forecasting and more.

Raw Blue

Author : Kirsty Eagar
Publisher : Penguin UK
ISBN 13 : 0857965700
Total Pages : 255 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (579 download)

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Book Synopsis Raw Blue by : Kirsty Eagar

Download or read book Raw Blue written by Kirsty Eagar and published by Penguin UK. This book was released on 2009-06-29 with total page 255 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Award-winning novelby Kirsty Eagar, author of Saltwater Vampires and Night Beach. Raw Blue was awardedthe 2010 Victorian Premier's Literary Awards Young Adult Fiction prize. Readersof Tim Winton's Breathwill be drawn to Raw Blue, an achingly beautiful young adult novel set in Sydney's northern beaches.Winner of the 2010 Victorian Premier's Literary Awards, it is a haunting storyabout finding your passion in life. Carly has dropped out of uni to spend her days surfing and her nights working as a cook in a Manly cafe. Surfing is the one thing she loves doing ... and the only thing that helps her stop thinking about what happened two years ago. Then she meets Ryan and Carly has to decide.Will shelet the past bury her? Orcan shelet go of her anger and shame, and find the courage to be happy? Check out Kirsty Eagar'swebsite at www.kirstyeagar.com,and read herblogto find out about her thoughts on books, writing, music, surfing, and finding inspiration, or visit betweenthelines.com.au -the destination for Young Adult books. Praise for Raw Blue: 'Kirsty Eagar's fearless Raw Blue, a story of regeneration set on Sydney's northern beaches, is much more than just a promising debut: this one delivers.' Australian Book Review Best Books of 2009: Critics' Choices 'Kirsty Eagar's first novel explores dark territory with skill and sensitivity.' The Age 'An emotionally rich and powerful first novel.' Canberra Times 'If you only read one book this year ... it should be Kirsty Eagar's Raw Blue one of those kept-me-up-all-night novels that stays in your bones and sings in your ears long after you've finished it. It wouldn't be out of place next to Tim Winton's Breath, except this is the ocean as healer, not as an object to be conquered, or the site of self-destruction, of risk. The images crackle, the lines are full of the poetry of observation, the story is searing, gutting, beautiful. This should be compulsory reading for all teenagers especially boys.' julialawrinson.livejournal.com 'This is a psychologically intense novel that involves even non-surfing readers in the release Carly feels when conquering the waves we empathise with her in the long battle between desire and fear on the path to self-acceptance.' Magpies 'I read this book feverishly, desperate for a happy ending, and afterwards found it difficult to get Carly and the men who ride into her life out of my mind.' Newcastle Herald '[a] very moving book It's dark subject matter, but Eagar makes it uplifting.' Sunday Territorian 'A memorable first book by a writer who gives an honest approach to what young adults face growing up and growing wiser.' Woman's Day Read of the Week

Lost

Author : Richard Glynne Hughes
Publisher : Lulu.com
ISBN 13 : 0359007058
Total Pages : 110 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (59 download)

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Book Synopsis Lost by : Richard Glynne Hughes

Download or read book Lost written by Richard Glynne Hughes and published by Lulu.com. This book was released on 2018-08-06 with total page 110 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This novel is compete with the adventures of young teenagers as they experience life in Jupiter, Florida.

Seal Surfer

Author : Michael Foreman
Publisher : Andersen Press (UK)
ISBN 13 : 9781842705780
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (57 download)

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Book Synopsis Seal Surfer by : Michael Foreman

Download or read book Seal Surfer written by Michael Foreman and published by Andersen Press (UK). This book was released on 2006 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: After witnessing the birth of a seal, Ben forges a close bond with it, observing and sharing her life in the ocean.

Salt & Silver

Author : Johannes Riffelmacher
Publisher : Andrews McMeel Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1449479669
Total Pages : 321 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (494 download)

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Book Synopsis Salt & Silver by : Johannes Riffelmacher

Download or read book Salt & Silver written by Johannes Riffelmacher and published by Andrews McMeel Publishing. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 321 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Two surfers look for Latin America’s best waves—and best food: “Part travelogue, part cookbook, and all outstanding . . . an epic trip that’s well worth taking.” —Publishers Weekly (starred review) This book traces the journey of surfers Johannes Riffelmacher and Thomas Kosikowski as they make their way through Central and South America—reporting on the best surfing locations, chronicling the stories of local surfers and restaurant owners, and compiling recipes representative of each area. The narrative begins in Cuba with beautiful images of the city and the beaches, as well as stories related to the Cuban surfing community and a discussion of popular Cuban dishes. Next is a tour of Mexico—first with street tacos, a trip through Mexican markets, and a day spent in the urban graffiti scene of Guadalajara; then with Tostadas de Pulpo (Octopus Crackers), Shrimp and Portobello Burgers, and a glimpse into life in the remote surfing town of San Pancho. The Mexican leg of the journey draws to a conclusion with seven-meter-waves, BBQ, and Tajine in Rio Nexpa, as well as “a perfect righthander barreling of a point” in scenic La Ticla. Then the two men make their way through Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Ecuador, Peru, and finally Chile, exploring the beaches as well as the kitchens of each location. Interspersed throughout are more than ninety regional recipes, over 250 stunning photographs, and a wide array of tips and stories ranging from social commentary to pointers on how to rent a “Hamaquera” in La Ticla for three dollars a night. “The recipes . . . are real-deal, the photography is breathtaking, and the tales of full immersion are inspiring.” —Nick McGregor, Eastern Surf Magazine

Surf Like a Girl

Author : Rebecca Heller
Publisher : Three Rivers Press (CA)
ISBN 13 : 9781400082728
Total Pages : 164 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (827 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Like a Girl by : Rebecca Heller

Download or read book Surf Like a Girl written by Rebecca Heller and published by Three Rivers Press (CA). This book was released on 2005 with total page 164 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Get in a Surfer State of Mind Whether you live near the ocean or can only dream about being out in the water, you can achieve those sun-kissed locks and cheeks, that stellar physique, and the no-holds-barred spirit of the quintessential surfer girl. Get in the swim with this one-of-a-kind guide to all things surfer, which will answer your questions, including: -How can you find a surf break that's right for you? -Why wear a leash and what does it mean to be goofy footed? -How early in the morning do you really need to get out there? -Can you surf without wrecking a fresh pedicure? -What should you say to a hottie pulling a hang ten? -How do you find a cute bikini that won't fall off when you get worked in the water? "Surf Like a Girl covers all the basics: how to ride the waves, what to wear, safety and etiquette, and loads of advice for the landlocked surfer girl. It's a perfect resource, whether you're about to paddle out and catch a wave or you just want to look like you pulled a wicked cutback.

Riders

Author : Tim Winton
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 0684822776
Total Pages : 388 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis Riders by : Tim Winton

Download or read book Riders written by Tim Winton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 1996-06-23 with total page 388 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Fred Scully searches for his pregnant wife, who disappears without an explanation, leaving him with Billy, his seven-year-old daughter.