All For A Few Perfect Waves

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All for a Few Perfect Waves

Author : David Rensin
Publisher : Harper Collins
ISBN 13 : 0061868167
Total Pages : 826 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (618 download)

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Book Synopsis All for a Few Perfect Waves by : David Rensin

Download or read book All for a Few Perfect Waves written by David Rensin and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 2009-03-17 with total page 826 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

Surf Diva

Author : Izzy Tihanyi
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156029865
Total Pages : 260 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (298 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Diva by : Izzy Tihanyi

Download or read book Surf Diva written by Izzy Tihanyi and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The founders of a surf school for women provide both a practical how-to guide to the sport of surfing and a witty look at the surfing lifestyle, integrating advice from professional surfers and tips on how to stay safe while having fun.

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Let My People Go Surfing

Author : Yvon Chouinard
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 1101201223
Total Pages : 276 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (12 download)

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Book Synopsis Let My People Go Surfing by : Yvon Chouinard

Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 276 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now. From the Trade Paperback edition.

Clark Little

Author : Clark Little
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984859781
Total Pages : 241 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis Clark Little by : Clark Little

Download or read book Clark Little written by Clark Little and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2022-04-05 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.

Mop Rides the Waves of Life

Author : Jaimal Yogis
Publisher : Parallax Press
ISBN 13 : 1946764612
Total Pages : 40 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (467 download)

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Book Synopsis Mop Rides the Waves of Life by : Jaimal Yogis

Download or read book Mop Rides the Waves of Life written by Jaimal Yogis and published by Parallax Press. This book was released on 2020-06-30 with total page 40 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: If only life could be like surfing! Having "funny" hair and being embarrassed in school is hard, but when little surfer Mop studies the lessons of the waves—breathing, letting the bad waves go by, and riding the good ones—he learns how to bring the mindfulness and joy of surfing into his whole life. Celebrated San Francisco surfer-journalist-dad Jaimal Yogis teaches 4-8 year olds timeless beach wisdom with the story of Mop, a sensitive and fun-loving kid who just wants to be in the ocean. Going to school and navigating classmates can be hard—but all that goes away when little surfer Mop paddles out in the waves. With a few tips from his clever mom, Mop studies the wisdom of the water and learns to bring it into his life on land: taking deep breaths, letting the tough waves pass, and riding the good ones all the way. With newfound awareness and courage, Mop heads back to land—and school—to surf the waves of life. With stylish full-color beachy illustrations from cover to cover.

Incredible Waves

Author : Chris Power
Publisher : Orca Publications
ISBN 13 : 9780956789334
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (893 download)

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Book Synopsis Incredible Waves by : Chris Power

Download or read book Incredible Waves written by Chris Power and published by Orca Publications. This book was released on 2013-12-10 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Incredible Waves has just won Illustrated Book of the Year at The British Sports Book Awards! Beautiful, unique, kaleidoscopic, geometrically exquisite...perfect waves are some of Mother Nature's most alluring and mesmerizing creations. Incredible Waves is a stunning coffee-table book of photographs that capture the beauty and majesty of the world's most awesome waves. This breathtaking volume is a collection of the best recent work by 20 top surf photographers including Clark Little, Brian Bielmann, Chris Burkard, Russell Ord, DJ Struntz, Tungsten, Jeff Flindt, Ray Collins and Andrew Shield. Among the most spectacular shots are images of big-wave breaks such as Pipeline, Cloudbreak, The Right, Teahupoo and Jaws – waves which are as dangerous as they are enticing, for photographers as well as surfers.The stories behind the most dramatic shots are revealed in the accompanying text, along with essays and discussions about current trends in surf photography.Readers interested in improving their own photographic skills will benefit from the technique sections throughout the book which offer tips and advice for getting better shots. Everything from basic composition to underwater photography is covered, along with tips for getting the best from board-mounted miniature cameras such as the GoPro.The photos in Incredible Waves are guaranteed to thrill surfers, longboarders, kite surfers and bodyboarders alike...in fact everyone who loves looking at images of the ocean at its most spectacular.

The Surfer and the Sage

Author : Noah benShea
Publisher : Abrams
ISBN 13 : 1641707003
Total Pages : 206 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (417 download)

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Book Synopsis The Surfer and the Sage by : Noah benShea

Download or read book The Surfer and the Sage written by Noah benShea and published by Abrams. This book was released on 2022-06-07 with total page 206 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sometimes life’s waves knock you down; other times, life might seem to sweep you along powerless. But the choice is always yours to swim back up to the light. Legendary world champion surfer Shaun Tomson and international bestselling poet-philosopher Noah benShea join forces to offer you insight on a path of purpose, hope, and faith. This timely guidebook alternates between Tomson’s inspiring experiential essays and benShea’s spiritual commentary that lift the soul, all accented with stunning full-color surfing photographs. After losing his son, Tomson walked the bitter road of loss and crossed from darkness into the light. The Surfer and the Sage addresses the eighteen relentless, breaking waves of life, from loss and aging to relationships and depression, and guides you to transformation. It is not a list of rules to follow that guarantee success, health, or wealth, but rather a collection of advice from two guides who have traveled far and wide and suffered deeply, but still look forward to tomorrow with faith and hope.

No Bad Waves

Author :
Publisher : Patagonia
ISBN 13 : 1938340086
Total Pages : 317 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (383 download)

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Book Synopsis No Bad Waves by :

Download or read book No Bad Waves written by and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2013-10-06 with total page 317 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mickey Muñoz has been called the “surfer’s surfer,” and is loved and respected among the cognoscenti for his contributions to surfing and the surfing life for the past 60 years as a surfer, a pioneer of Waimea Bay, a stuntman (stand-in for Gidget), a board shaper and designer, and as a sailor and boatbuilder (America’s Cup). Mentored by the Malibu greats of the ’40s, and an influence on generations of surfers since, Mickey weaves the story of a California waterman using his own life and that of his friends.

Tapping the Source

Author : Kem Nunn
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1451645554
Total Pages : 322 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (516 download)

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Book Synopsis Tapping the Source by : Kem Nunn

Download or read book Tapping the Source written by Kem Nunn and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2012-06-19 with total page 322 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: NATIONAL BOOK AWARD FINALIST Kem Nunn’s “surf noir” classic is a thrilling plunge into the seedy underbelly of a Southern California beach town—the inspiration for the film Point Break. People go to Huntington Beach in search of the endless parties, the ultimate highs, and the perfect waves. Ike Tucker has come to look for his missing sister and for the three men who may have murdered her. In that place of gilded surfers and sun-bleached blonds, Ike’s search takes him on a journey through a twisted world of crazed Vietnam vets, sadistic surfers, drug dealers, and mysterious seducers. He looks into the shadows and finds parties that drift toward pointless violence, joyless vacations, and highs you may never come down from...and a sea of old hatreds and dreams gone bad. And if he’s not careful, his is a journey from which he will never return.

The Critical Surf Studies Reader

Author : Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee
Publisher : Duke University Press
ISBN 13 : 0822372827
Total Pages : 490 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (223 download)

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Book Synopsis The Critical Surf Studies Reader by : Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee

Download or read book The Critical Surf Studies Reader written by Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee and published by Duke University Press. This book was released on 2017-08-17 with total page 490 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The evolution of surfing—from the first forms of wave-riding in Oceania, Africa, and the Americas to the inauguration of surfing as a competitive sport at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics—traverses the age of empire, the rise of globalization, and the onset of the digital age, taking on new meanings at each juncture. As corporations have sought to promote surfing as a lifestyle and leisure enterprise, the sport has also narrated its own epic myths that place North America at the center of surf culture and relegate Hawai‘i and other indigenous surfing cultures to the margins. The Critical Surf Studies Reader brings together eighteen interdisciplinary essays that explore surfing's history and development as a practice embedded in complex and sometimes oppositional social, political, economic, and cultural relations. Refocusing the history and culture of surfing, this volume pays particular attention to reclaiming the roles that women, indigenous peoples, and people of color have played in surfing. Contributors. Douglas Booth, Peter Brosius, Robin Canniford, Krista Comer, Kevin Dawson, Clifton Evers, Chris Gibson, Dina Gilio-Whitaker, Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee, Scott Laderman, Kristin Lawler, lisahunter, Colleen McGloin, Patrick Moser, Tara Ruttenberg, Cori Schumacher, Alexander Sotelo Eastman, Glen Thompson, Isaiah Helekunihi Walker, Andrew Warren, Belinda Wheaton

Surfing

Author : Elliott Almond
Publisher : The Mountaineers Books
ISBN 13 : 1594853649
Total Pages : 216 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (948 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing by : Elliott Almond

Download or read book Surfing written by Elliott Almond and published by The Mountaineers Books. This book was released on 2009-04-20 with total page 216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: CLICK HERE to download a sample chapter from Surfing * Covers gear, fitness, safety, lingo, and rules of the water * Includes basic to intermediate techniques, surf culture, and competitive surfing * Author is an award-winning journalist and life-long surfer Surfing's not just for rebels anymore: anyone with the desire to ride a wave is grabbing a board and heading to the beach. Each year, this artform-cum-sport gains popularity as business executives, grandmas, teenagers, coastal dwellers, and adventure travelers get stoked to catch swells. This new guidebook by sports writer and waterman Elliott Almond is a primer for the uninitiated as well as a handbook for the experienced ready to build on their fundamental skills. Covering topics ranging from basic surfing techniques to surfing fitness prep (including exercises to get your arms ready for all that paddling and stretches to keep you limber) and from history, surf culture, and a complete explanation of gear, to how to find the right board for you, this book also features insights from industry leaders, pro surfers, and instructors. With more than three decades of surfing experience to share, Almond offers clear, authoritative guidance to help those venturing into uncharted waters find their way safely and confidently.

AFROSURF

Author : Mami Wata
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984860410
Total Pages : 320 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis AFROSURF by : Mami Wata

Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.

Let My People Go Surfing

Author : Yvon Chouinard
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 1101992530
Total Pages : 274 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (19 download)

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Book Synopsis Let My People Go Surfing by : Yvon Chouinard

Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-09-06 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope." —Jared Diamond, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Guns, Germs, and Steel In this 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

The Wave

Author : Susan Casey
Publisher : Anchor Canada
ISBN 13 : 0385666683
Total Pages : 434 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (856 download)

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Book Synopsis The Wave by : Susan Casey

Download or read book The Wave written by Susan Casey and published by Anchor Canada. This book was released on 2011-05-31 with total page 434 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.

A Supposedly Fun Thing I'll Never Do Again

Author : David Foster Wallace
Publisher : Back Bay Books
ISBN 13 : 0316090522
Total Pages : 549 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (16 download)

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Book Synopsis A Supposedly Fun Thing I'll Never Do Again by : David Foster Wallace

Download or read book A Supposedly Fun Thing I'll Never Do Again written by David Foster Wallace and published by Back Bay Books. This book was released on 2009-11-23 with total page 549 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: These widely acclaimed essays from the author of Infinite Jest -- on television, tennis, cruise ships, and more -- established David Foster Wallace as one of the preeminent essayists of his generation. In this exuberantly praised book -- a collection of seven pieces on subjects ranging from television to tennis, from the Illinois State Fair to the films of David Lynch, from postmodern literary theory to the supposed fun of traveling aboard a Caribbean luxury cruiseliner -- David Foster Wallace brings to nonfiction the same curiosity, hilarity, and exhilarating verbal facility that has delighted readers of his fiction, including the bestselling Infinite Jest.

Surf Is Where You Find It

Author : Gerry Lopez
Publisher : Patagonia
ISBN 13 : 9781938340949
Total Pages : 416 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (49 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Is Where You Find It by : Gerry Lopez

Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2021-05-19 with total page 416 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward." Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport withSurf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water. From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has traveled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most. Originally published in 2008,Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by, and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today. Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos. Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today -- surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way. Includes forewords by Rob Machado andThe Surfer's Journal found Steve Pezman.