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The Surf Riders Of Hawaii
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Book Synopsis The Surf Riders of Hawaii, Centennial Edition by :
Download or read book The Surf Riders of Hawaii, Centennial Edition written by and published by . This book was released on 2013-09-12 with total page 28 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A reproducation of the first book dedicated to surfing. Hand made in 1910 to 1915, including a book about the creator of the book A.R. Gurrey Jr.
Download or read book Legends of Surfing written by Duke Boyd and published by MVP Books. This book was released on 2009-11-07 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)
Book Synopsis Surfing in Hawai'i by : Timothy Tovar DeLaVega
Download or read book Surfing in Hawai'i written by Timothy Tovar DeLaVega and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2011 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When the early European explorers traversed the globe, their journals held numerous accounts of Hawaiians enjoying surfing. Since Europeans of that era were not accustomed to swimming in their own cold waters, it must have seemed like a dream to watch naked native Hawaiians riding the waves of a turbulent sea. Nowhere in the ancient world was surfing as ingrained into the culture as on the islands of Hawai'i. He'e nalu (wave sliding) was the national sport and enjoyed by all. When a swell was up, whole villages were deserted as everyone fled to the beach to test their surfing skills. Legends of famous surf riders were retold in mele (song/chant), and fortunes could be decided on the outcome of a surfing contest. From these shores, modern surfing was born, along with the iconic romantic images of bronzed surfers, grass shacks, and hula.
Book Synopsis Hawaiian Surfriders, 1935 by : Tom Blake
Download or read book Hawaiian Surfriders, 1935 written by Tom Blake and published by Mountain & Sea Publishing. This book was released on 1983 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Provides a history of surfing and covers the development of the hollow surfboard. Includes many images of Waikiki Beach.
Book Synopsis Surfing Illustrated by : John Robison
Download or read book Surfing Illustrated written by John Robison and published by McGraw Hill Professional. This book was released on 2010-04-16 with total page 177 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Expert instruction you need to take your skills from kook to boss Author John Robison uses hundreds of pictures--comical, cartoon-like drawings--to clearly illustrateevery aspect of surfing: wave dynamics, riding techniques,etiquette, logistics, and more. This entertaining,easy-to-understand visual presentation makes it easyfor you to pick up his techniques and use themon the waves. Robison covers every aspect of thesport, from paddling out through the surf zone andcatching and riding that first wave to nose riding, acrobatics,shortboard riding, and to equipment repairs.
Book Synopsis The Surf Riders of Hawaii by : Alfred R. Gurrey, Jr.
Download or read book The Surf Riders of Hawaii written by Alfred R. Gurrey, Jr. and published by . This book was released on 2013-09-12 with total page 18 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2021-10-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.
Book Synopsis Under the Wave at Waimea by : Paul Theroux
Download or read book Under the Wave at Waimea written by Paul Theroux and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2021 with total page 421 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.
Book Synopsis Waves of Resistance by : Isaiah Helekunihi Walker
Download or read book Waves of Resistance written by Isaiah Helekunihi Walker and published by University of Hawaii Press. This book was released on 2011-03-02 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing has been a significant sport and cultural practice in Hawai‘i for more than 1,500 years. In the last century, facing increased marginalization on land, many Native Hawaiians have found refuge, autonomy, and identity in the waves. In Waves of Resistance Isaiah Walker argues that throughout the twentieth century Hawaiian surfers have successfully resisted colonial encroachment in the po‘ina nalu (surf zone). The struggle against foreign domination of the waves goes back to the early 1900s, shortly after the overthrow of the Hawaiian kingdom, when proponents of this political seizure helped establish the Outrigger Canoe Club—a haoles (whites)-only surfing organization in Waikiki. A group of Hawaiian surfers, led by Duke Kahanamoku, united under Hui Nalu to compete openly against their Outrigger rivals and established their authority in the surf. Drawing from Hawaiian language newspapers and oral history interviews, Walker’s history of the struggle for the po‘ina nalu revises previous surf history accounts and unveils the relationship between surfing and colonialism in Hawai‘i. This work begins with a brief look at surfing in ancient Hawai‘i before moving on to chapters detailing Hui Nalu and other Waikiki surfers of the early twentieth century (including Prince Jonah Kuhio), the 1960s radical antidevelopment group Save Our Surf, professional Hawaiian surfers like Eddie Aikau, whose success helped inspire a newfound pride in Hawaiian cultural identity, and finally the North Shore’s Hui O He‘e Nalu, formed in 1976 in response to the burgeoning professional surfing industry that threatened to exclude local surfers from their own beaches. Walker also examines how Hawaiian surfers have been empowered by their defiance of haole ideas of how Hawaiian males should behave. For example, Hui Nalu surfers successfully combated annexationists, married white women, ran lucrative businesses, and dictated what non-Hawaiians could and could not do in their surf—even as the popular, tourist-driven media portrayed Hawaiian men as harmless and effeminate. Decades later, the media were labeling Hawaiian surfers as violent extremists who terrorized haole surfers on the North Shore. Yet Hawaiians contested, rewrote, or creatively negotiated with these stereotypes in the waves. The po‘ina nalu became a place where resistance proved historically meaningful and where colonial hierarchies and categories could be transposed. 25 illus.
Book Synopsis The Encyclopedia of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw
Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.
Download or read book Women on Waves written by Jim Kempton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2021-07-06 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make it’s Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia, From Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.
Book Synopsis Roaming: Roark's Adventure Atlas by : Beau Flemister
Download or read book Roaming: Roark's Adventure Atlas written by Beau Flemister and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2022-03-29 with total page 354 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An action sports adventurer’s bucket list of exciting and unexpected destinations around the globe as lived and told by iconic surfers, skaters, climbers, and riders. An unconventional photographic guidebook to adventure, featuring images, intel, itineraries, tales, and testimonies collected by Roark’s expert guides. The book documents the routes of a group of iconic surfers, climbers, skaters, and other adventurers seeking full cultural and thrill-seeking immersion. Including journeys to 16 global destinations illustrating the road less traveled, from surf expeditions to Iceland, the Falkland Islands, or Jamaica, to motorcycle journeys through Nepal, rock climbing in Argentina to cliff jumping in Northern Vietnam, and more. World-renowned photographers Chris Burkard, Dylan Gordon, Jeff Johnson, Drew Smith, and Chris McPherson uniquely capture faraway images and the wayward spirit of those that seek adventure—if not a little danger—in an increasingly tame world. The modern bible for anyone interested in charting an adventure with improbable itineraries across the globe, or the mere appreciation for photography that transports you to a place only found in dreams.
Download or read book Da Bull written by Greg Noll and published by North Atlantic Books. This book was released on 1989 with total page 228 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Pioneer big-wave surfer, Greg Noll, was called Da Bull by his fellow surfers for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport. His approach to life in general wasn't much different. His life revolved around surfing and everything the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He discovered Mazatlan as a surf spot. He as the first to ride the fear-some waves at Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline on Oahu's North Shore. He brawled and caroused with men, charmed and entertained women. Above all, he was Da Bull, one of the bravest and best of the big wave riders of his or anyone's era."--Amazon.com
Book Synopsis The World in the Curl by : Peter J. Westwick
Download or read book The World in the Curl written by Peter J. Westwick and published by Crown. This book was released on 2013-07-23 with total page 418 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Draws on decades of experience and the popular team-taught courses at the University of California at Santa Barbara to trace the cultural, political, economic and environmental aspects of surfing while evaluating the diverse range of influences that have rendered the sport a billion-dollar worldwide industry.
Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Download or read book Surf Survival written by Andrew Nathanson and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2019-07-02 with total page 599 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.
Book Synopsis Surfing Corpus Christi and Port Aransas by : Dan Parker
Download or read book Surfing Corpus Christi and Port Aransas written by Dan Parker and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2010 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surf culture in the texas Coastal Bend began in the early 1960s when a few young men set up surfboard rental stands on the beach. By 1970, thousands of people had caught the surfing bug. In the decades that followed, dozens of surf shops and surfboard makers established themselves in Corpus Christi, Port Aransas, and nearby communities, coastal Bend surers won national championships for their wave-riding prowess, beating out: counterparts from the East Coast, California, and Hawaii. By the 21st century, Coastal Bend wave riders had become a force to be reckoned with, playing strong roles in local political movements that influenced public policy. Husband-and-wife team Dan Parker and Michelle Christenson, curators of the Texas Surf Museum, conducted hundreds of interviews and examined thousands of photographs to produce this book. Numerous Coastal Bend surfers assisted in the effort by contributing photographs from their private collections. Parker and Christenson are longtime Port Aransas surfers who work as newspaper jounralists. The Images of America series celebrates the history of neighborhoods, towns, and cities across the country. Using archival photographys, each title presents the distinctive stories from the past that shape the character of the community today. Arcadia is proud to play a part in the preservation of local heritage, making history available to all.
