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Observations And Speculations On Mechanics Of Wave Generation By Wind
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Book Synopsis Observations and Speculations on Mechanics of Wave Generation by Wind by : Erik L. Mollo-Christensen
Download or read book Observations and Speculations on Mechanics of Wave Generation by Wind written by Erik L. Mollo-Christensen and published by . This book was released on 1970 with total page 64 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Presentation of data obtained on couplings between surface waves of different frequencies and air-turbulence surface wave couplings. Data obtained from buoy mounted instruments off the coast of Massachusetts. Discussion of theories of wave generation by wind in light of observations. The transfer of momentum from the air to the long waves through the generation and decay of ripples near the wave crests, as proposed by Longuet-Higgins. Intermittency of the flux processes. (Author).
Book Synopsis Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports by :
Download or read book Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports written by and published by . This book was released on 1995 with total page 602 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Lists citations with abstracts for aerospace related reports obtained from world wide sources and announces documents that have recently been entered into the NASA Scientific and Technical Information Database.
Book Synopsis An Investigation of the Mechanisms of Wind Generated Surface Waves by : Ma'moun Ali Mohammad Janajrah
Download or read book An Investigation of the Mechanisms of Wind Generated Surface Waves written by Ma'moun Ali Mohammad Janajrah and published by . This book was released on 2010 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The goal of wind-waves research is to predict the waves field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural or imposed by human endeavour. The mechanism of wind generated waves is described in the present work as a wind-bulk flow interaction rather than as a mechanical process which only transfers the wind energy to the wave. In the light of this description, the generation and growth of surface waves are functions of the physical properties of the interface, density of the bulk flow perturbations and wind shear stress. While the present models for the prediction of surface growth and evolution show some consistence - in some cases - with observations that were conducted in laboratories and in real fields, the work presented in this thesis justifies and explains the inconsistency or contradictions in other cases between the observations and the predictions. Also, physical interpretations for observations, for example wave growth with fetch, are suggested in the present work. To illustrate the physical mechanism responsible for wave generation and growth under the effect of wind action, two approaches are used. The first involves studying the effect of the physical properties of the water surface on atmospheric input into the bulk and thus the effect on the formation and growth of capillary waves. The second involves studying the correlation between the wave formation and growth and the density of the bulk perturbations. Wide ranges of previous data are used to analyse the effect of the physical properties of the water surface on wave generation and growth mechanism for the first approach. Also, a group of experiments using the PIV system (Particle Image Velocimetry) were conducted to study the correlation between the wind speed, bulk flow evolution and wind-waves" generation and growth for the second approach. The main physical parameters which are responsible for the generation and growth of capillary waves are determined. The Ohnesorge number is modified to predict the generation and growth of surface waves. In the second part, additional physical parameters of the bulk flow are introduced to illustrate the correlation between the wind generated waves and bulk flow evolution. A new parameter is used to scale the transition of the bulk flow from laminar flow to turbulent flow or the transition of the water surface from an undisturbed surface to a fully disturbed surface. The history of wind-wave research is relatively short. Although there were basic developments in the 18th century, a concentrated effort really began as a result of the military imperative of the Second World War. These developments were however, largely empirical. A theoretical frame work began to develop with the studies of wind-wave generation in the last century. The present work is conducted to fill some gaps in wind generated surface waves research and to introduce new approaches to simplify understanding wind-waves field and its effect on the environment.
Download or read book NBS Special Publication written by and published by . This book was released on 1971 with total page 360 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Results of a Preliminary Field Study of Wave Generation by Wind by : John R. Seesholtz
Download or read book Results of a Preliminary Field Study of Wave Generation by Wind written by John R. Seesholtz and published by . This book was released on 1969 with total page 48 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Observations made from a thirty meter tall spar buoy are described. Wind velocity profiles, atmospheric pressure fluctuations and wave profiles were recorded and means, spectra and covariances of the observed quantities were evaluated. Comparison of the observed rate of change of wave energy with theoretical predictions show only fair agreement with Miles' theory. The phase lead of wind fluctuations with respect to the wave crests increased with height, the maximum near the critical layer. (Author).
Book Synopsis Report by : United States. National Bureau of Standards
Download or read book Report written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1968 with total page 696 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters by : Leo H. Holthuijsen
Download or read book Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters written by Leo H. Holthuijsen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2010-02-04 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Book Synopsis The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind by : Peter Janssen
Download or read book The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind written by Peter Janssen and published by Cambridge University Press. This book was released on 2004-10-28 with total page 310 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Book Synopsis Hydrodynamics in the Ocean Environment by : Milton Spinoza Plesset
Download or read book Hydrodynamics in the Ocean Environment written by Milton Spinoza Plesset and published by . This book was released on 1972 with total page 1216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Wind-Waves in Oceans by : Igor Lavrenov
Download or read book Wind-Waves in Oceans written by Igor Lavrenov and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-11-11 with total page 381 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.
Book Synopsis Current Hydraulic Laboratory Research in the United States by :
Download or read book Current Hydraulic Laboratory Research in the United States written by and published by . This book was released on 1970 with total page 360 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Observations on Incipient Wind-generation of Ocean Waves by : Basil Wrigley Wilson
Download or read book Observations on Incipient Wind-generation of Ocean Waves written by Basil Wrigley Wilson and published by . This book was released on 1956 with total page 18 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Hydraulic Research in the United States 1970 by : United States. National Bureau of Standards
Download or read book Hydraulic Research in the United States 1970 written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1971 with total page 360 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Hydraulic Research in the United States and Canada by : United States. National Bureau of Standards
Download or read book Hydraulic Research in the United States and Canada written by United States. National Bureau of Standards and published by . This book was released on 1968 with total page 1046 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Coastal Wave Storms by : Marta Alomar Domínguez
Download or read book Coastal Wave Storms written by Marta Alomar Domínguez and published by . This book was released on 2009 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The importance of improving wind-wave predictions for the NW Mediterranean coastal region makes it necessary to perform a study in-depth of wave generation and propagation mechanisms under sharp spatial and temporal gradients. For this purpose, a heavily instrumented coastal transect was set perpendicular to Tarragona's harbour coastline. Wave data were obtained from different buoys and meteorological stations. Wave data were analysed paying special attention to storm identification and storm evolution in terms of the integrated spectral parameters and the spectral shape. Measured data were also used to analyse the performance of the operational 18km resolution WAM wave model, and a higher resolution SWAN wave model forced with different wind fields (modelled and observed). The in-situ observations reproduced the expected features of wave generation and propagation: wave height and peak period increased with fetch during fetch-limited growth conditions and peak period was conserved in fully-developed sea conditions. Spectral shapes agreed with previous observations in both fetch-limited and fully-developed growth conditions. The differences between the time series recorded at each instrument confirm the importance of strong temporal and spatial gradients in the regional wind and wave fields. Due to the coarse temporal and spatial resolution of the operational wind and wave models, the wave model did not predict specific features of the time series such as storm peaks and calm periods, sudden changes in wave direction, and differences between instruments. Also, the operational wave model did not accurately predict the integrated spectral wave parameters: wave height was up to -50% under-predicted at the peak of the storm, low peak periods (7.5s) were over-predicted and high peak periods (7.5s) were under-predicted. To improve these results a high resolution wind model (4km, 3h) was used to force a high resolution wave model (1km, 1h) during one particular storm event. Increasing the resolution of the wind and wave models, the peaks of the storm were predicted and wave height estimations were significantly improved in terms of magnitude (wave height underprediction at the peak of the storm was reduced from -50% in the operational model to -17%). Some of the differences between the instruments' time series were reproduced but not all of them. Wave height and peak period were still significantly under-predicted. Because wind speeds were over-predicted (25%), these results point to a need of improving wave predictions in terms of wave growth. For this reason, a study of the sensitivity of the wave model to different wind input fields was performed. It was concluded that modelled wind fields were better input than in-situ wind observations because of the lack of spatial variability of the observations. Also, because the observations do not represent the highest wind speeds along the fetch of the buoys. When increasing the wind (taking the highest values in the region or enhancing the predicted wind fields) better predictions of the magnitude of the wave height were obtained, although the improvements of the peak period were not conclusive. The results suggest that the reason of the under-rediction of the high-resolution models was an inaccurate transmission of energy from the winds towards the waves. The role of the drag coefficient and bimodal spectra were also considered, but its study in detail will be approached in future work. The overall results point to the need of better understanding the local wave generation and growth processes to eventually improve wave predictions in the area.
Download or read book Wind Waves written by Blair Kinsman and published by Courier Corporation. This book was released on 1984-01-01 with total page 706 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this classic study, a renowned student of ocean wave theory examines the data requirements and details of the power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. Although the discussions center on waves, once the techniques are understood, they can be applied to many other areas. After outlining the nature of waves and wave processes and their methods of measurement and classification, the author provides a detailed exploration that relies heavily on mathematical models. Topics include perturbations of irrotational motion, energy considerations, wave generations by wind, and much more. The text is enhanced and clarified by 270 photos, figures, and tables. A helpful bibliography and indexes conclude this indispensable addition to the oceanographer's library.
Book Synopsis Meteorological and Geoastrophysical Abstracts by :
Download or read book Meteorological and Geoastrophysical Abstracts written by and published by . This book was released on 1996 with total page 480 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
