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Discover Surfing
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Book Synopsis Surf Is Where You Find It by : Gerry Lopez
Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2015-04-17 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.
Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Book Synopsis The Encyclopedia of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw
Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.
Book Synopsis Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume by :
Download or read book Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume written by and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 1998-06 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Imagine surfing a perfect blue wave off a deserted beach of sparkling white sand. This book takes us back to a time when the earliest surfers were busy inventing the first American beach culture. The beautiful and nostalgic photographs that surfer Don James took of himself and his friends from 1936-46 capture the lost Eden of the California surf dream in all its glory and innocence. Over 100 sepia photos.
Download or read book Surf Shacks written by Matt Titone and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2017 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many abodes can fall under the label of surf shack: New York City apartments, cabins nestled next to national parks, or tiny Hawaiian huts. Surfing communities are overflowing with creativity, innovation, and rich personas. Surf Shacks takes a deeper look at surfers' homes and artistic habits. Glimpses of record collections, strolls through backyard gardens, or a peek into a painter's studio provide insight into surfers' lives both on and off shore. From the remote Hawaiian nook of filmmaker Jess Bianchi to the woodsy Japanese paradise that the former CEO of Surfrider Foundation in Japan, Hiromi Masubara, calls home to the converted bus that Ryan Lovelace claims as his domicile and his transport, every space has a unique tale. The moments that these vibrant personalities spend away from the swell and the froth are both captivating and nuanced.
Book Synopsis Discover Surfing by : Victoria Marcos
Download or read book Discover Surfing written by Victoria Marcos and published by Xist Publishing. This book was released on 2015-04-15 with total page 28 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover Reading Early Readers Get your little grom ready to hang ten! If you can't wait to teach your children how to surf, but they need to get out of the wading pool first, this book is an excellent introduction to surfing through beautiful full-color photographs and simple sentences for beginning readers.
Download or read book Beginners written by Tom Vanderbilt and published by Knopf. This book was released on 2021 with total page 321 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The bestselling author of Traffic and You May Also Like now offers a thought-provoking, playful investigation into the transformative joys that come with starting something new, no matter one's age.
Book Synopsis Surfing's Greatest Misadventures by : Paul Diamond
Download or read book Surfing's Greatest Misadventures written by Paul Diamond and published by Casagrande Press LLC. This book was released on 2006 with total page 403 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing's Greatest Misadventures contains thirty of themost engaging, humorous and unbelievable stories ofsurfing life from the past fifty years. Culled fromhundreds of submissions, the non-fiction stories selectedfor this one-of-a-kind collection run the gamut from theterrifying to the comical to the downright bizarre. Thestories ......
Book Synopsis Surf Is Where You Find It by : Gerry Lopez
Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2021-05-19 with total page 416 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward." Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport withSurf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water. From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has traveled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most. Originally published in 2008,Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by, and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today. Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos. Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today -- surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way. Includes forewords by Rob Machado andThe Surfer's Journal found Steve Pezman.
Book Synopsis Natural Surf Technique by : Frank Caronna
Download or read book Natural Surf Technique written by Frank Caronna and published by . This book was released on 2014-10-17 with total page 82 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: I wrote this book with the confidence of 25 years teaching and coaching surfing and feel I have established a technique that will help beginner to intermediate surfers learn and reach their potential faster while staying safe and respectful to other surfers and the ocean. I have used my techniques to help surfers of all levels while keeping in mind the different body types people have and hope you enjoy the techniques and teachings the book provides. You can view the slide up technique and a few other things I teach in the book on YouTube under Natural Surf Technique to better help you understand and connect the techniques better. Enjoy and better safer surfing, Frank Caronna(Author owner and surf coach for Natural Surf Technique)
Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna
Book Synopsis Walking on Water by : Jeremy V. Jones
Download or read book Walking on Water written by Jeremy V. Jones and published by Gospel Light Publications. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing is spiritual. Ask most wave riders and they’ll describe some sense of deeper connection with the water, the waves or the power around them. Surfing to them is a spiritual experience. In a subculture that’s traditionally known for its rebellion, here you’ll find a deep undercurrent of faith amongst these top wave riders who share an understanding that the Creator of the waves also desires to know and relate with them. In these pages, you’ll meet top surfers such as C.J. Hobgood, who rose to the top of the surf world but found it ultimately dissatisfying; Bethany Hamilton, a courageous teen who survived a shark attack and returned to the sport; surf legend Tom Curren, a middle-aged father of four whose comeback of sorts is the talk of the surf world; and Al Merrick, a remarkable surfboard shaper who crafts the vehicles ridden by surf stars. Discover what makes these celebrities and others believe that surfing is meaningless without a deep satisfying faith in something more.
Book Synopsis Extreme Surfing by : John Crossingham
Download or read book Extreme Surfing written by John Crossingham and published by Crabtree Publishing Company. This book was released on 2004 with total page 36 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Extreme Surfing began as an ancient Polynesian tradition. Surfers are daring athletes who challenge the oceans. Find out what makes a person wake up at dawn to take thrilling rides on enormous waves! In Extreme Surfing, kids will discover* the etiquette of surfing* the many types of surfboards and how to care for them* great places to surf around the world* the rich history of surfing
Book Synopsis Riding the Magic Carpet by : Tom Anderson
Download or read book Riding the Magic Carpet written by Tom Anderson and published by Summersdale Publishers LTD. This book was released on 2006-06-01 with total page 283 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "The right-hand point at Jeffreys Bay is one of the surfing world's most exciting finds, and from the age of twelve it had been my life's purpose to surf there." J-Bay, South Africa, has the fantasy, the almost mythical waves every surfer dreams of riding once in their lifetime. But Tom wouldn't go until he was ready. He would seek out surf-spots from the virgin reef-breaks of the Outer Orkneys to the temple point-breaks of Indonesia, from the beautiful beaches of France to the wilds of Sri Lanka, on his quest to ride the waves of his dreams. Get on the road, get stoked, and get in the water.
Book Synopsis Surfing with Sartre by : Aaron James
Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 352 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Download or read book Ghost Wave written by Chris Dixon and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2011-10-21 with total page 281 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: “Takes us to a place of almost mythic power and tells a story that unfolds like a long ride on a killer wave . . . compellingly written.” —Sebastian Junger, New York Times–bestselling author Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just fifteen feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth. In this dramatic work of narrative nonfiction, journalist Chris Dixon unlocks the secrets of Cortes Bank and pulls readers into the harrowing world of big wave surfing and high seas adventure above the most enigmatic and dangerous rock in the sea. The true story of this Everest of the sea will thrill anyone with an abiding curiosity of and respect for mother ocean. “A terrific, deeply researched tale about a truly wild place. You couldn’t make up Cortes Bank, or the characters who’ve tried to make it theirs.” —William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life “A first-rate account of an amazing phenomenon and the people who tried to conquer and exploit it. A great read.” —Winston Groom, New York Times–bestselling author of Forrest Gump “After reading Chris’ most excellent account of the monstrous waves of the mysterious Cortes Bank—the Bermuda Triangle of the Pacific—I never thought I would ever consider riding a wave like this. But after surviving a five-foot, head-first fall from the stage earlier this year, I think I might be ready.” —Jimmy Buffett
Book Synopsis Surfing for God by : Michael John Cusick
Download or read book Surfing for God written by Michael John Cusick and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 2012 with total page 226 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Every man who knocks on the door of a brothel is knocking for God." - G. K. Chesterton What if lust for porn is really a search for true passion? In a world where there are 68 million searches for pornography every day and where over 70 percent of Christian men report viewing porn in the last year, it's no surprise that more and more men struggle with an addiction to this false fantasy. Common wisdom says if they just had more willpower or more faith, their fight would be over. Is the answer really that simple? According to the counselor and ministry leader Michael John Cusick, the answer is no--but the big truth may be much more freeing.Backed by scripture, Cusick uses examples from his own life and from his twenty years of counseling experience to show us how the pursuit of empty pleasure is really a search for our heart's deepest desire--and the real key to to resistance is discovering and embracing the joy we truly want. Cusick's insights help readers understand how porn struggles begin, what to do to prevent them, and most importantly, how to overcome the compulsion once it begins. In the end, this powerful book shows us all how the barrier built by porn addiction can become a bridge to abundant life.
