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California Surf Stories
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Book Synopsis The California Surf Project by : Eric Soderquist
Download or read book The California Surf Project written by Eric Soderquist and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2009-04-22 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Quit your job, pack your boards, and surf your way down the California coast.... Sound like a daydream? The California Surf Project is the fully illustrated travel diary of two surfers who took this trip of a lifetime. Chris Burkard, a talented photographer, and Eric Soderquist, a professional surfer, cajoled their Volkswagen bus along Highway 1 from the Oregon border to the Tijuana Sloughs and discovered everything the Golden State's legendary coastline has to offer. Relive their incredible adventure of surfing perfect waves, sharing campfires with total strangers, and keeping the bus running with duct tape and prayers in more than 200 gorgeous photographs, soulful text, and a professionally produced thirty-minute DVD.
Book Synopsis California Surf Stories by : Tony Gibson
Download or read book California Surf Stories written by Tony Gibson and published by Independently Published. This book was released on 2022-11-25 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is a description of 99 (+/-) California surf spots based on my memories of them. It is part memoir, part descriptive listing of surf spots, part rambling musings. Perhaps in time as both humans and nature alter the coastline it will also become a historical document. The timeline spans roughly from 1977 to 1997. The distance spans over 700 miles from the Tijuana River at the Mexican border to the coastal redwoods of Humboldt County. Although surfing and surf spots are the core, it's also to be enjoyed by anyone with interest in the beauty of the ocean and wilderness on earth regardless of whether one ever puts a foot on a surfboard or even in the ocean. The descriptions are written largely free of any surf lingo that would prevent a novice ocean enthusiast from understanding but also detailed enough to be of interest and value to the traveling surfer in search of something new. We all start from the same point on land. Some may just try the sport a few times and others will become obsessed to a degree shared by only the most committed. Regardless of the time spent or a level of proficiency, there's a common experience and feeling shared at the coast and much of that is the core of these stories. Excerpts: "He said to go, that it would be worth the hour and a half drive, 45 minute walk and the 800 yard paddle to and from the spot. I had checked the setup before and knew that he was not exaggerating the distance of the walk, but I could not imagine paddling 800 yards to reach the lineup. It was not an exaggeration." "If I were going to be stuck on an imaginary island and could only take one spot with me it would be Black's" "I don't know how legal it was. I set up my tent on a little bluff just west of Highway 1, but to get there I had to climb through a gap in a fence." "looking at the surrounding hills and mountains... I felt at such peace and in love with the earth that only experience can convey the feeling. I am sure that others who have been there, especially in the evening as the sunlight is glowing on the mountains, feel the same as I." "When I came back out onto the street, I walked into a near hurricane force wind. Sand and trash were flying everywhere. Soon the power went out and when I got back to my car I had to reevaluate just how safe my portable hotel was in this location. More than one large tree had already fallen, bringing down power lines across the street. I looked around and saw several other trees that could potentially fall onto my car, so I set out for a new, safer spot to spend the night." "I was a bit sore from the previous session and sleeping in the car with two surfboards, a cooler, clothes and a wet wetsuit but I was completely fired up to surf this miraculous place again." "I camped on the beach here several times until one night around 2:00 a.m., while I was sleeping in my car, I was awakened by a sheriff who told me camping/sleeping overnight there was illegal and that he "did not care" where I camped as long as it was not in his county." "It is such a wonderful arena of sights, sounds, and sensations. The length of the waves combined with the constant energy flow and flawless form are often as baffling as anything I have experienced. Things like the Alps are certainly wondrous in their own right, but the temporary and constant evolution of waves gives them a certain precious quality of their own. It is things like barely making the most vertical off-the-lip with toes barely in contact with the board on the way down, then falling into twenty yard barrel with a deep blue wall and a silver curtain that is followed by a hard cutback into another barrel and coming out of that and hitting another two or three off-the-lips that must be experienced to be truly understood." "Surfing is really the only place I have yet to experience such overpowering feelings."
Download or read book Wild Sea written by Serge Dedina and published by University of Arizona Press. This book was released on 2011-03-15 with total page 172 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many people have lamented the pollution and outright loss of beaches along the coasts of California and Mexico, but very few people have fought on behalf of beaches as hardÑor as successfullyÑas Serge Dedina. Whether taking on an international conglomerate or tackling a state transportation agency, Dedina is truly an eco-warrior. In this sparkling collection of articles, many written for popular magazines, Dedina tells the stories as only an insider could. He writes with a firm grasp of facts along with an advocateÕs passion and outrage. Sprinkled with just the right mix of humor and surf lingo, DedinaÕs writing is Òweapons gradeÓÑsurfer speak for totally awesome. Dedina grew up in Imperial Beach, California, just north of the Mexican border, and he feels equally at home in Mexico and the States. An expert on gray whales, he eloquently describes the fight he helped to lead against the Mitsubishi Corporation, whose plan to build a salt-processing plant in the San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California would have destroyed the worldÕs last undeveloped gray whale lagoon. With similar fervor, Dedina describes helping to construct the unlikely coalition that succeeded in defeating a proposed toll road that would have decimated a legendary California surf spot. In between, he writes about the first surfers in Baja, the Great Baja Land Rush of the 1990s, TijuanaÕs punk music scene, the pop-culture wrestling phenomenon lucha libre, the reasons why ocean pollution must be stopped, and the way HBO took over his hometown. Anyone interested in whatÕs happening to our natural places or just yearning to read about someone really making a difference in the world will find this a book worth sinking their teeth into.
Book Synopsis California Surfing and Climbing in the Fifties by :
Download or read book California Surfing and Climbing in the Fifties written by and published by . This book was released on 2013 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The story told by the photographs in California Surfing and Climbing in the Fifties takes place against the larger backdrop of postwar America: Truman and Eisenhower, the Korean War, the Cold War and the Red Scare. Young people were embracing new symbols of non-conformity: Elvis Presley, Jack Kerouac, Marlon Brando and James Dean. All along the California coast, surfing became popular as heavy balsawood boards were replaced with lightweight ones crafted from polyurethane foam, fiberglass and resin. Meanwhile, climbers descended on Tahquitz Rock in the south and Yosemite Valley to the north to test handcrafted equipment that would set new standards for safety, technique and performance. The photographs in this volume include images of legendary surfers such as Joe Quigg, Tom Zahn, Dale Velzy and Renny Yater, in locations such as Rincon, Malibu, South Bay, Laguna and San Onofre; and famous climbers such as Warren Harding, Royal Robbins and Wayne Merry among others, photographed mostly in the Yosemite Valley by the likes of Bob Swift, Alan Steck, Jerry Gallwas and Frank Hoover. Soaked in surf, sun and adrenaline, the photographs in California Surfing and Climbing in the Fifties depict the birth of an era and an exhilarating moment in Californian history.
Download or read book Surf and Rescue written by Patrick Moser and published by University of Illinois Press. This book was released on 2022-06-28 with total page 295 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The mixed-race Hawaiian athlete George Freeth brought surfing to Venice, California, in 1907. Over the next twelve years, Freeth taught Southern Californians to surf and swim while creating a modern lifeguard service that transformed the beach into a destination for fun, leisure, and excitement. Patrick Moser places Freeth’s inspiring life story against the rise of the Southern California beach culture he helped shape and define. Freeth made headlines with his rescue of seven fishermen, an act of heroism that highlighted his innovative lifeguarding techniques. But he also founded California's first surf club and coached both male and female athletes, including Olympic swimming champion and “father of modern surfing” Duke Kahanamoku. Often in financial straits, Freeth persevered as a teacher and lifeguarding pioneer--building a legacy that endured long after his death during the 1919 influenza pandemic. A compelling merger of biography and sports history, Surf and Rescue brings to light the forgotten figure whose novel way of seeing the beach sparked the imaginations of people around the world.
Book Synopsis Surfer Magazine's Guide to Northern and Central California Surf Spots by : The Editors of Surfer Magazine
Download or read book Surfer Magazine's Guide to Northern and Central California Surf Spots written by The Editors of Surfer Magazine and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2006-05-04 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfer Magazine offers the ultimate guide to catching the best waves from the redwood shores of the Oregon-California border to the wind- blasted coastal plains of San Luis Obispo County. For more than 250 spots, this sturdy manual sporting a water-resistant covers delivers a clear assessment of wave quality, prime wave conditions, and local hazards (both natural and manmade). Informative text answers the burning questions that surfers often pose: What tide? What wind? What swell? How are the locals? Are they worse than the sharksor the traffic? With helpful maps, photos, and directions, this Surfer's Guide is sure to become the gold standard for anyone looking to score the perfect wave.
Book Synopsis Surfer Magazine's Guide to Southern California Surf Spots by : The Editors of Surfer Magazine
Download or read book Surfer Magazine's Guide to Southern California Surf Spots written by The Editors of Surfer Magazine and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2006-05-04 with total page 172 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfer Magazine offers the ultimate guide to catching the best waves from the pristine points of Santa Barbara to the sunny beaches of San Diego. For more than 250 spots, this sturdy manual sporting a water-resistant cover delivers a clear assessment of wave quality, prime wave conditions, and local hazards (both natural and manmade). Informative text answers the burning questions that surfers often pose: What tide? What wind? What swell? How are the locals? Are they worse than the sharksor the traffic? With helpful maps, photos, and directions, this Surfer's Guide is sure to become the gold standard for anyone looking to score the perfect wave.
Book Synopsis Fletcher: A Lifetime in Surf by : Dibi Fletcher
Download or read book Fletcher: A Lifetime in Surf written by Dibi Fletcher and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2019-10-29 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Through fifty years of epic stories, art, and personal ephemera, The Fletcher Family spans surfing's golden era to the present day, when bathing-suit model Dibi and competitive surfer Herbie met, to raising talented Christian and Nathan on boards and waves, to passing the torch to their skating-phenom grandson, Greyson. Herbie Fletcher is a surfing legend. Fletcher and his sons, Christian and Nathan, made a habit of doing things exceptionally well and in their own way before they became the norm. But the Fletchers are not merely trailblazing surf and skate legends; they also are counterculture and subculture icons. T Magazine referred to them as having "punk family values." Their sincere love for art and surfing and their collective DGAF attitude has earned them legions of devoted fans and friends from so many different worlds: music, fashion, streetwear, and art. The epitome of both surfer cool and punk counterculture, the Fletcher family for the first time has put together a window into their immensely colorful life. A visual memoir of this near-mythological surf family, The Fletcher Family is sure to appeal to their massive surfing fan base, young skaters, and those who are interested in the Fletcher family and their place in Southern California as a subcultural force of nature.
Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna
Download or read book San Onofre written by David F. MKatuszak and published by . This book was released on 2018-09-02 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: San Onofre: Memories of a Legendary Surfing Beach is a landmark achievement in the study of surfing history and culture from its origins in Polynesia, Peru, and Africa, to the role that San Onofre played in molding California surf culture.San Onofre is the story of the California surfing culture as seen through the eyes of the surfers at San Onofre Surf Beach. Pioneer surfers tell their own story of the Golden Age of Surfing and illustrate their tales with never-before-seen vintage photographs from their own family albums. Their stories offer a priceless collection of primary source data for future studies of the sport.
Book Synopsis Surf, Sand, and Stone by : Keith Heyer Meldahl
Download or read book Surf, Sand, and Stone written by Keith Heyer Meldahl and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2015-10-13 with total page 236 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Meldahl tells the scientific story of the Southern California coast by blending research from geology and oceanography with a compelling narrative and clear illustrations that take readers out in the field with the author to learn about the processes that have generated the coast as it exists today and how the region will change in the future. The author's geographic scope spans from San Diego to Point Conception, taking in coastal portions of San Diego, Orange, Ventura, Los Angeles, and Santa Barbara counties"--Provided by publisher.
Book Synopsis Surfing in San Diego by : John C. Elwell
Download or read book Surfing in San Diego written by John C. Elwell and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2007-07-04 with total page 193 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: San Diego County has nearly 75 miles of picturesque coastline on the mighty Pacific Ocean, and for decades, San Diego has boasted of producing some of the worlds finest surfers. But here surfing is more than a sportit is a Southern California lifestyleand as such has heavily influenced the beach towns throughout the county. Much research points to surfing having come to Southern California in 1907, and it may have taken hold in San Diego as early as 1910. Join with us in this wonderful pictorial journey through San Diegos little-known surfing past.
Download or read book Women on Waves written by Jim Kempton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2021-07-06 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make it’s Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia, From Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.
Book Synopsis Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume by :
Download or read book Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume written by and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 1998-06 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Imagine surfing a perfect blue wave off a deserted beach of sparkling white sand. This book takes us back to a time when the earliest surfers were busy inventing the first American beach culture. The beautiful and nostalgic photographs that surfer Don James took of himself and his friends from 1936-46 capture the lost Eden of the California surf dream in all its glory and innocence. Over 100 sepia photos.
Download or read book The Lost Coast Pb written by Drew Kampion and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2009-09 with total page 220 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfers read the patterns of the sea like others read a book. For them, the organization of swells and currents and the curling folds of the waves are elements of a natural language, as coherent in structure and meaning as any taught in school. Each of the eighteen stories in this collection is a raw glimpse of surf life-from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene to experiencing the ecstasy of the Pure Art of Surfing. Most previously published in magazines over the past thirty-five years, the stories in this collection capture the movement, mythology, fantasy, and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.
Book Synopsis Surfing in Santa Cruz by : Thomas Hickenbottom
Download or read book Surfing in Santa Cruz written by Thomas Hickenbottom and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2009 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Santa Cruz is located on the northern tip of Monterey Bay on California's central coast. Surfing was first introduced to the U.S. mainland in Santa Cruz by three visiting Hawaiian princes in the late 1880s. Since those early days, the Santa Cruz surfing culture has blossomed into a thriving lifestyle. Many of the world's most highly regarded surfers hail from Santa Cruz. In fact, Santa Cruz, or "Surf City" as its known, has become a popular destination for surfing aficionados of all ages. Surfing in Santa Cruz is a concise historical overview of the diverse and colorful surfing culture inhabiting the area.
Download or read book Empire in Waves written by Scott Laderman and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2014-01-18 with total page 251 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing today evokes many things: thundering waves, warm beaches, bikinis and lifeguards, and carefree pleasure. But is the story of surfing really as simple as popular culture suggests? In this first international political history of the sport, Scott Laderman shows that while wave riding is indeed capable of stimulating tremendous pleasure, its globalization went hand in hand with the blood and repression of the long twentieth century. Emerging as an imperial instrument in post-annexation Hawaii, spawning a form of tourism that conquered the littoral Third World, tracing the struggle against South African apartheid, and employed as a diplomatic weapon in America's Cold War arsenal, the saga of modern surfing is only partially captured by Gidget, the Beach Boys, and the film Blue Crush. From nineteenth-century American empire-building in the Pacific to the low-wage labor of the surf industry today, Laderman argues that surfing in fact closely mirrored American foreign relations. Yet despite its less-than-golden past, the sport continues to captivate people worldwide. Whether in El Salvador or Indonesia or points between, the modern history of this cherished pastime is hardly an uncomplicated story of beachside bliss. Sometimes messy, occasionally contentious, but never dull, surfing offers us a whole new way of viewing our globalized world.
