Best Surfer Ever

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Big Wave Surfer

Author : Kai Lenny
Publisher : Rizzoli Publications
ISBN 13 : 0847870855
Total Pages : 306 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (478 download)

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Book Synopsis Big Wave Surfer by : Kai Lenny

Download or read book Big Wave Surfer written by Kai Lenny and published by Rizzoli Publications. This book was released on 2021-10-26 with total page 306 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe‘ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women’s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo’s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazaré, Portugal; Brett Lickle’s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world’s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.

Cocaine + Surfing

Author : Chas Smith
Publisher : Rare Bird Books
ISBN 13 : 9781644280331
Total Pages : 188 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (83 download)

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Book Synopsis Cocaine + Surfing by : Chas Smith

Download or read book Cocaine + Surfing written by Chas Smith and published by Rare Bird Books. This book was released on 2019-12-11 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

Surfing Florida

Author : Paul Aho
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780813049489
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (494 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing Florida by : Paul Aho

Download or read book Surfing Florida written by Paul Aho and published by . This book was released on 2014 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book offers a lively and well-researched visual history of Florida surfing--its origins, its people and personalities, its innovations, its deep influence on the sport's international reach.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156032513
Total Pages : 820 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (325 download)

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Book Synopsis The Encyclopedia of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Surfer's Code

Author : Patrick J. Moser
Publisher : Gibbs Smith
ISBN 13 : 1423611020
Total Pages : 194 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (236 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfer's Code by : Patrick J. Moser

Download or read book Surfer's Code written by Patrick J. Moser and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2009-09 with total page 194 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life, world champion surfer Shaun Tomson shares the life lessons he's gathered from decades of surfing-from his boyhood adventures in South Africa to the world tour in the late 1970s to the business world today. For Tomson, surfing is a hobby, a sport, a religion, an obsession and more-it is a way of life. Tomson's life lessons have guided his career to the top of both professional competition and the world of business. Now, he shares these powerful lessons, born on the world's best swells, with all people-including those who might never step on a surfboard. These lessons are born of the collective wisdom of the surf community and are a powerful source of inspiration in the face of extraordinary challenges of every day life.

Surf Is Where You Find It

Author : Gerry Lopez
Publisher : Patagonia
ISBN 13 : 1938340256
Total Pages : 571 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (383 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Is Where You Find It by : Gerry Lopez

Download or read book Surf Is Where You Find It written by Gerry Lopez and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2015-04-17 with total page 571 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

Hound of the Sea

Author : Garrett McNamara
Publisher : HarperCollins
ISBN 13 : 0062343610
Total Pages : 200 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (623 download)

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Book Synopsis Hound of the Sea by : Garrett McNamara

Download or read book Hound of the Sea written by Garrett McNamara and published by HarperCollins. This book was released on 2016-11-15 with total page 200 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara--star and subject of the HBO mini-series, 100 Foot Wave--chronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth. Garrett McNamara set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes—to risk everything for one thrilling ride? Is riding giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender? Personal and emotional, readers will know GMac as never before, seeing for the first time the personal alongside the professional in an exciting, intimate look at what drives this inventive, iconoclastic man. Surfing awesome giants isn’t just thrill seeking, he explains—it’s about vanquishing fears and defeating obstacles past and present. Surfers and non-surfers alike will embrace McNamara’s story—as they have William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days—an its intimate look at the enigmatic pursuit of riding waves, big and small. Hound of the Sea is a record of perseverance, passion, and healing. Thoughtful, suspenseful, and spiritually profound, McNamara reveals the beautiful soul of surfing through the eyes of one of its most daring and devoted disciples.

Maui Glory Days (Color)

Author : Jonathan Joseph Weston
Publisher : Independently Published
ISBN 13 : 9781083090522
Total Pages : 260 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (95 download)

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Book Synopsis Maui Glory Days (Color) by : Jonathan Joseph Weston

Download or read book Maui Glory Days (Color) written by Jonathan Joseph Weston and published by Independently Published. This book was released on 2019-07-26 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This is the color version of Maui Glory Days. It is very costly to print-on-demand, however, some have requested it. Capturing Maui's golden era of windsurfing, from the early pioneering days of Kailua to the big waves at Hookipa and Jaws, this book tells the story of the Kings and legends of the sport as it evolved from longboards to high-performances in big surf. Fictional dialogue accompanies remarkable true events of survival, from near-drownings to helicopter crashes. Told by Sports Illustrated Picture of the Year (POY) award-winning photographer and filmmaker Jonathan Weston. He was the first filmmaker to take the audience along for the ride with his innovative point-of-view (POV) helmet-mounted 16mm movie camera. The thrills, dangers and behind the scenes experiences are all shared in this epic tale of perseverance and survival. Remarkable images and Wind Legends movie, also produced by Jonathan Weston, are posted in accompanying website.

Surf For Your Life

Author : Mick Fanning
Publisher : Random House Australia
ISBN 13 : 1864715286
Total Pages : 387 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (647 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf For Your Life by : Mick Fanning

Download or read book Surf For Your Life written by Mick Fanning and published by Random House Australia. This book was released on 2010-05-01 with total page 387 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An inspirational tale of overcoming the odds to become world champ Mick Fanning might only be 28 but he already knows how a lot of things feel that most of us never will. How does it feel to lose a brother? Win a world title? Rip your hamstring muscle clean off the bone? Weave through a zippering Superbank barrel for 20 or 30 seconds or paddle over the ledge at places like Pipeline and Teahupo? Have scoliosis so bad you can't get off the floor? Address the NSW state of origin team before a match, bowl to Matty Hayden and have Dave Warner belt you for consecutive sixes? Walk into the bar of a Brasilian hotel dressed only in a bikini to make your mates laugh, only to find your mates have left, and there is only a puzzled bartender staring blankly at you? You'll notice that not all these experiences fall neatly on one side of the ledger of good or bad. Mick's journey so far has definitely been a mixed bag, but it is the extremes of that journey that make him so interesting, and his readiness to learn from each experience and use it as fuel to drive him on that might provide lessons for the rest of us. Mick's only young but he already exudes a quiet wisdom beyond his years, and now he's ready to share it with anyone wanting to further their surfing, whether competitively or for sheer pleasure. Mick tells his life story candidly - in turns funny, sensitive, thoughtful, self-depricating - while providing intimate insights into the personal lessons gained along the way - with practical tips on surfing technique, fitness, nutrition, board design, travel, competitive strategies and mental clarity. Mick has overcome personal tragedy and career-threatening injury on his way to claiming the 2007 world surfing title. Universally acknowledged as the most focussed and driven competitive surfer of his era, Mick's approach to surfing, sports psychology, life and relationships, makes fascinating reading. The essential principles of perseverance, hard work, and overcoming obstacles in pursuit of your dreams, will inspire anyone keen to get the best out of themselves. Ultimately, though, it's Mick's humanity, his readiness to give back, which might provide the greatest surprise and inspiration.

Occy

Author : Mark Occhilupo
Publisher : Random House Australia
ISBN 13 : 186471493X
Total Pages : 286 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (647 download)

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Book Synopsis Occy by : Mark Occhilupo

Download or read book Occy written by Mark Occhilupo and published by Random House Australia. This book was released on 2010-05-01 with total page 286 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In his own words, Occy tells the complete, remarkable story of his spectacular rise, terrifying fall and miraculous rebirth. 'Occy was always a missile going hyperspeed, about to blow up at any moment. - it's true of so many highly intelligent or gifted people . . . All of his passion was put into his surfing.' Kelly Slater, eight-time world champion Child star at sixteen, ranked third in the world at seventeen, winner of the Pipeline Masters at nineteen - Mark Occhilupo looked set to sweep all before him with a radical, spontaneous, irresistible brand of surfing. Yet a spiralling descent into drug abuse and depression snuffed his flame out prematurely when he quit the pro tour at just twenty-two. Faltered comebacks, spectacular bursts of free-surfing and manic breakdowns followed, as the surfing world watched a freakish talent self-combust. After years spent immobile and overweight on the couch, in his so-called 'Elvis period', Occy eventually emerged from his cocoon, reborn and ready to tackle a whole new generation of surf stars. His celebrated comeback to win the world title in 1999, sixteen years after his career began, is a sporting fairytale without equal. 'By going down so hard, by fully falling apart, he was able to give himself longevity. It's like the Buddhist teachings about birth and death - something has to die for new birth to happen, and that happens inside us too. Occy was the ultimate example of that.' Tom Carroll.

The History of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 0811856003
Total Pages : 498 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (118 download)

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Book Synopsis The History of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2010-09 with total page 498 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

Assholes

Author : Aaron James
Publisher : Anchor
ISBN 13 : 0385535686
Total Pages : 188 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (855 download)

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Book Synopsis Assholes by : Aaron James

Download or read book Assholes written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2012-10-30 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the spirit of the mega-selling On Bullshit, philosopher Aaron James presents a theory of the asshole that is both intellectually provocative and existentially necessary. What does it mean for someone to be an asshole? The answer is not obvious, despite the fact that we are often personally stuck dealing with people for whom there is no better name. Try as we might to avoid them, assholes are found everywhere—at work, at home, on the road, and in the public sphere. Encountering one causes great difficulty and personal strain, especially because we often cannot understand why exactly someone should be acting like that. Asshole management begins with asshole understanding. Much as Machiavelli illuminated political strategy for princes, this book finally gives us the concepts to think or say why assholes disturb us so, and explains why such people seem part of the human social condition, especially in an age of raging narcissism and unbridled capitalism. These concepts are also practically useful, as understanding the asshole we are stuck with helps us think constructively about how to handle problems he (and they are mostly all men) presents. We get a better sense of when the asshole is best resisted, and when he is best ignored—a better sense of what is, and what is not, worth fighting for.

Malibu

Author : Ben Marcus
Publisher : Arcadia Publishing
ISBN 13 : 9780738576145
Total Pages : 132 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (761 download)

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Book Synopsis Malibu by : Ben Marcus

Download or read book Malibu written by Ben Marcus and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2011 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Malibu offers the best in Southern California living. This small town is situated close to Los Angeles and Hollywood, but far enough away from the traffic and stress of big-city life. All the clichés of Southern California come true in Malibu: the swimming pools, movie stars, paparazzi, and fancy cars. It's the land of champagne wishes and caviar dreams. But Malibu is also a beautiful, quiet, and surprisingly rural beachfront community. In a desirable location going back to the time of the Chumash Indians, the peace and environment of Malibu have been protected by city fathers with a vision. This is the California Riviera, a thin slice of la dolce vita located between the Santa Monica Mountains and the deep blue sea.

The Tao of Health, Sex, and Longevity

Author : Daniel Reid
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 067164811X
Total Pages : 432 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (716 download)

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Book Synopsis The Tao of Health, Sex, and Longevity by : Daniel Reid

Download or read book The Tao of Health, Sex, and Longevity written by Daniel Reid and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 1989-07-15 with total page 432 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Written by a Westerner for the Western mind, here is the first book to explore in light of modern science the balanced and comprehensive system of health care used by Chinese physicians, martial artists, and meditators for over 5,000 years. Drawing on original Chinese sources and years of personal experience, the author introduces the philosophy of Tai and gives detailed, practical information ..."--Back cover.

Pure Stoke

Author : John Grissim
Publisher : HarperCollins Publishers
ISBN 13 : 9780060909727
Total Pages : 180 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (97 download)

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Book Synopsis Pure Stoke by : John Grissim

Download or read book Pure Stoke written by John Grissim and published by HarperCollins Publishers. This book was released on 1982 with total page 180 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Pipe Dreams

Author : Kelly Slater
Publisher : HarperCollins
ISBN 13 : 006302828X
Total Pages : 316 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (63 download)

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Book Synopsis Pipe Dreams by : Kelly Slater

Download or read book Pipe Dreams written by Kelly Slater and published by HarperCollins. This book was released on 2020-02-18 with total page 316 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Soon to be an ABC reality series entitled Ultimate Surfer, starring 11-time World Surf League champion Kelly Slater Six-time world surfing champion, actor, and American heartthrob Kelly Slater tells his inspiring story of triumph over adversity From Beach Blanket Bingo to Baywatch to Blue Crush, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport’s hottest star. He has won more world championships than any other competitor, and he continues to change peoples’ minds about what can and can’t be done on a surfboard. His wild ride has included fame, fortune, a stint on Baywatch, and a high-profile relationship with Pamela Anderson. Not bad for a skinny kid from a broken home in Cocoa Beach, Florida. In Pipe Dreams, Kelly takes the reader into oceans around the world to take on thunderous walls of water and shares the outrageous stories, solemn moments, and undeniable spirit that have made him a superstar.