200 Years Of Surfing Literature

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200 Years of Surfing Literature

Author : Timothy T. DeLa Vega
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780975432808
Total Pages : 102 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (328 download)

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Book Synopsis 200 Years of Surfing Literature by : Timothy T. DeLa Vega

Download or read book 200 Years of Surfing Literature written by Timothy T. DeLa Vega and published by . This book was released on 2004 with total page 102 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Aloha... The worlds first bibliography devoted to the literature of the sport of surfing. Starting with Captain J. Cook (1779) and continuing on to just released books (2004), including interviews of many of the most renowned surfing authors, notes from surfing historians and quotes from the original text. Devided into four time periods to make research more user freindly, with historical time frame introductions. Numerous pre 1900 illustrations and magazine and book covers add a visiual note for the collector and historian. This groundbreaking piece has been called 'Landmark' by "Surfers Journal's" Steve Pezman. Numbered Limited press run.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156032513
Total Pages : 820 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (325 download)

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Book Synopsis The Encyclopedia of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

North Shore Chronicles

Author : Bruce Jenkins
Publisher : Frog Books
ISBN 13 : 9781583941249
Total Pages : 284 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (412 download)

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Book Synopsis North Shore Chronicles by : Bruce Jenkins

Download or read book North Shore Chronicles written by Bruce Jenkins and published by Frog Books. This book was released on 2005-08-05 with total page 284 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.

Surfer of the Century

Author : Ellie Crowe
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 56 pages
Book Rating : 4.F/5 ( download)

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Book Synopsis Surfer of the Century by : Ellie Crowe

Download or read book Surfer of the Century written by Ellie Crowe and published by . This book was released on 2007 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "A brief biography of Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, five-time Olympic swimming champion from the early 1900s who is also considered worldwide as the 'father of modern surfing'"--Provided by publisher.

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Women on Waves

Author : Jim Kempton
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1643137255
Total Pages : 304 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Women on Waves by : Jim Kempton

Download or read book Women on Waves written by Jim Kempton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2021-07-06 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make it’s Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia, From Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.

Soul Surfer

Author : Bethany Hamilton
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 147110950X
Total Pages : 218 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (711 download)

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Book Synopsis Soul Surfer by : Bethany Hamilton

Download or read book Soul Surfer written by Bethany Hamilton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2012-12-25 with total page 218 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing - not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack - could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii Bethany responded to the shark's stealth with a calmness beyond belief. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately thought: 'Get to the beach...' Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Ted Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the operating theatre. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was 'When can I surf again?' it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story - a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world.

The Critical Surf Studies Reader

Author : Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee
Publisher : Duke University Press
ISBN 13 : 0822372827
Total Pages : 490 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (223 download)

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Book Synopsis The Critical Surf Studies Reader by : Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee

Download or read book The Critical Surf Studies Reader written by Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee and published by Duke University Press. This book was released on 2017-08-17 with total page 490 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The evolution of surfing—from the first forms of wave-riding in Oceania, Africa, and the Americas to the inauguration of surfing as a competitive sport at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics—traverses the age of empire, the rise of globalization, and the onset of the digital age, taking on new meanings at each juncture. As corporations have sought to promote surfing as a lifestyle and leisure enterprise, the sport has also narrated its own epic myths that place North America at the center of surf culture and relegate Hawai‘i and other indigenous surfing cultures to the margins. The Critical Surf Studies Reader brings together eighteen interdisciplinary essays that explore surfing's history and development as a practice embedded in complex and sometimes oppositional social, political, economic, and cultural relations. Refocusing the history and culture of surfing, this volume pays particular attention to reclaiming the roles that women, indigenous peoples, and people of color have played in surfing. Contributors. Douglas Booth, Peter Brosius, Robin Canniford, Krista Comer, Kevin Dawson, Clifton Evers, Chris Gibson, Dina Gilio-Whitaker, Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee, Scott Laderman, Kristin Lawler, lisahunter, Colleen McGloin, Patrick Moser, Tara Ruttenberg, Cori Schumacher, Alexander Sotelo Eastman, Glen Thompson, Isaiah Helekunihi Walker, Andrew Warren, Belinda Wheaton

Surfing in Hawai'i

Author : Timothy Tovar DeLaVega
Publisher : Arcadia Publishing
ISBN 13 : 9780738574882
Total Pages : 132 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (748 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing in Hawai'i by : Timothy Tovar DeLaVega

Download or read book Surfing in Hawai'i written by Timothy Tovar DeLaVega and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2011 with total page 132 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When the early European explorers traversed the globe, their journals held numerous accounts of Hawaiians enjoying surfing. Since Europeans of that era were not accustomed to swimming in their own cold waters, it must have seemed like a dream to watch naked native Hawaiians riding the waves of a turbulent sea. Nowhere in the ancient world was surfing as ingrained into the culture as on the islands of Hawai'i. He'e nalu (wave sliding) was the national sport and enjoyed by all. When a swell was up, whole villages were deserted as everyone fled to the beach to test their surfing skills. Legends of famous surf riders were retold in mele (song/chant), and fortunes could be decided on the outcome of a surfing contest. From these shores, modern surfing was born, along with the iconic romantic images of bronzed surfers, grass shacks, and hula.

Caught Inside

Author : Daniel Duane
Publisher : Macmillan
ISBN 13 : 9780865475090
Total Pages : 260 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (75 download)

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Book Synopsis Caught Inside by : Daniel Duane

Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna

AFROSURF

Author : Mami Wata
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984860410
Total Pages : 320 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis AFROSURF by : Mami Wata

Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.

West of Jesus

Author : Steven Kotler
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing USA
ISBN 13 : 1596918357
Total Pages : 270 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (969 download)

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Book Synopsis West of Jesus by : Steven Kotler

Download or read book West of Jesus written by Steven Kotler and published by Bloomsbury Publishing USA. This book was released on 2008-12-01 with total page 270 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing? What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history? With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three-year globetrotting quest. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.

The American Surfer

Author : Kristin Lawler
Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 1136879846
Total Pages : 222 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (368 download)

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Book Synopsis The American Surfer by : Kristin Lawler

Download or read book The American Surfer written by Kristin Lawler and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2010-10-18 with total page 222 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book examines the surfer, one of the most significant and enduring archetypes in American popular culture. Lawler sets the surfer against the backdrop of the negative reactions to it by those groups responsible for enforcing the Puritan discipline, offering a fresh take on the relationship between commercial culture and counterculture.

The History of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 0811856003
Total Pages : 498 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (118 download)

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Book Synopsis The History of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2010-09 with total page 498 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

Staying on Top and Keeping the Sand Out of Your Pants

Author : Scott Miller
Publisher : HCI
ISBN 13 : 9780757300332
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (3 download)

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Book Synopsis Staying on Top and Keeping the Sand Out of Your Pants by : Scott Miller

Download or read book Staying on Top and Keeping the Sand Out of Your Pants written by Scott Miller and published by HCI. This book was released on 2003-05-01 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Using surfing as a metaphor for motivational and self-improvement concepts and written in accessible, everyday language peppered with surfer slang, Staying on Top proves that the good life is available right now. Making these essential lessons fun, cartoon character Surf Master Alva appears throughout the book to dispense nuggets of wisdom that point the way to the good life, illustrating in a humorous and wise way that experts and gurus are not needed to understand and make the most of life. In other words, we don't have to learn how to achieve the good life through retreats, pills, hospitals or programs, nor do we have to wait until we find the "perfect time". In surfer parlance, "Surfz up, dude! Get your board and get to the beach." Assessing their understanding of prevailing societal values portrayed through surfing metaphors and Surf Master Alva's quirky wisdom, Staying on Top will awaken people to the reality that living life to the fullest requires living in the present. Life right now is all anyone can truly be sure of: The secret to achieving and maintaining balance and serenity lies in accepting and embracing that truth. For long-term devotees of self-help literature and newcomers to the genre, everyone will delight in this wise yet whimsical journey to enlightenment.

Let My People Go Surfing

Author : Yvon Chouinard
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 1101992530
Total Pages : 274 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (19 download)

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Book Synopsis Let My People Go Surfing by : Yvon Chouinard

Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-09-06 with total page 274 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope." —Jared Diamond, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Guns, Germs, and Steel In this 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell

Author : Chas Smith
Publisher : Harper Collins
ISBN 13 : 0062202545
Total Pages : 196 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (622 download)

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Book Synopsis Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell by : Chas Smith

Download or read book Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell written by Chas Smith and published by Harper Collins. This book was released on 2013-11-19 with total page 196 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world.