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Author : Ben R. Finney
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 190 pages
Book Rating : 4.F/5 ( download)
Download or read book Surfing, the Sport of Hawaiian Kings written by Ben R. Finney and published by . This book was released on 1966 with total page 190 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Form VI Merit Prize awarded to B. J. Griffin, December 1969. Signed: 'David R. Lawrence'
Author : Ben R. Finney
Publisher : Pomegranate
ISBN 13 : 0876545940
Total Pages : 126 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (765 download)
Download or read book Surfing written by Ben R. Finney and published by Pomegranate. This book was released on 1996 with total page 126 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing traces the history of the sport from its beginnings in ancient Hawaii through the mid 1960s. This revised edition of the 1966 classic features extensive illustrations, a new introduction, and articles by Mark Twain and Jack London recounting their observations on surfing. The book also explores the development of the surfboard and follows surfing's timeline from the earliest legends to the accomplishments of modern surfing heroes.
Author : Isaiah Helekunihi Walker
Publisher : University of Hawaii Press
ISBN 13 : 0824860918
Total Pages : 241 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (248 download)
Download or read book Waves of Resistance written by Isaiah Helekunihi Walker and published by University of Hawaii Press. This book was released on 2011-03-02 with total page 241 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing has been a significant sport and cultural practice in Hawai‘i for more than 1,500 years. In the last century, facing increased marginalization on land, many Native Hawaiians have found refuge, autonomy, and identity in the waves. In Waves of Resistance Isaiah Walker argues that throughout the twentieth century Hawaiian surfers have successfully resisted colonial encroachment in the po‘ina nalu (surf zone). The struggle against foreign domination of the waves goes back to the early 1900s, shortly after the overthrow of the Hawaiian kingdom, when proponents of this political seizure helped establish the Outrigger Canoe Club—a haoles (whites)-only surfing organization in Waikiki. A group of Hawaiian surfers, led by Duke Kahanamoku, united under Hui Nalu to compete openly against their Outrigger rivals and established their authority in the surf. Drawing from Hawaiian language newspapers and oral history interviews, Walker’s history of the struggle for the po‘ina nalu revises previous surf history accounts and unveils the relationship between surfing and colonialism in Hawai‘i. This work begins with a brief look at surfing in ancient Hawai‘i before moving on to chapters detailing Hui Nalu and other Waikiki surfers of the early twentieth century (including Prince Jonah Kuhio), the 1960s radical antidevelopment group Save Our Surf, professional Hawaiian surfers like Eddie Aikau, whose success helped inspire a newfound pride in Hawaiian cultural identity, and finally the North Shore’s Hui O He‘e Nalu, formed in 1976 in response to the burgeoning professional surfing industry that threatened to exclude local surfers from their own beaches. Walker also examines how Hawaiian surfers have been empowered by their defiance of haole ideas of how Hawaiian males should behave. For example, Hui Nalu surfers successfully combated annexationists, married white women, ran lucrative businesses, and dictated what non-Hawaiians could and could not do in their surf—even as the popular, tourist-driven media portrayed Hawaiian men as harmless and effeminate. Decades later, the media were labeling Hawaiian surfers as violent extremists who terrorized haole surfers on the North Shore. Yet Hawaiians contested, rewrote, or creatively negotiated with these stereotypes in the waves. The po‘ina nalu became a place where resistance proved historically meaningful and where colonial hierarchies and categories could be transposed. 25 illus.
Author : Karen Rinaldi
Publisher : Atria Books
ISBN 13 : 150119576X
Total Pages : 256 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (11 download)
Download or read book It's Great to Suck at Something written by Karen Rinaldi and published by Atria Books. This book was released on 2019-05-07 with total page 256 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal. What if the secret to resilience and joy is the one thing we’ve been taught to avoid? When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. As a sh*tty surfer and all-around-imperfect human Karen Rinaldi explains in this eye-opening book, we live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over play. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. But we’re all being had. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection. We judge others on stuff we can’t even begin to master, and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. Worse, we’re not improving on what really matters. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something reveals that the key to a richer, more fulfilling life is finding something to suck at. Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport she’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. She draws from sources as diverse as Anthony Bourdain and surfing luminary Jaimal Yogis, Thich Nhat Hanh, and Jean-Paul Sartre, among many others, and explains the marvelous things that happen to our mammalian brains when we try something new, all to discover what she’s learned firsthand: it is great to suck at something. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, (It’s Great to) Suck at Something is an invitation to embrace our shortcomings as the very best of who we are and to open ourselves up to adventure, where we may not find what we thought we were looking for, but something way more important.
Author : Jack London
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780942208122
Total Pages : 18 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (81 download)
Download or read book Surfing written by Jack London and published by . This book was released on 1994-01-01 with total page 18 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Author : Ellie Crowe
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 56 pages
Book Rating : 4.F/5 ( download)
Download or read book Surfer of the Century written by Ellie Crowe and published by . This book was released on 2007 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "A brief biography of Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, five-time Olympic swimming champion from the early 1900s who is also considered worldwide as the 'father of modern surfing'"--Provided by publisher.
Author : Peter J. Westwick
Publisher : Crown
ISBN 13 : 0307719480
Total Pages : 418 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (77 download)
Download or read book The World in the Curl written by Peter J. Westwick and published by Crown. This book was released on 2013-07-23 with total page 418 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Draws on decades of experience and the popular team-taught courses at the University of California at Santa Barbara to trace the cultural, political, economic and environmental aspects of surfing while evaluating the diverse range of influences that have rendered the sport a billion-dollar worldwide industry.
Author : Duke Boyd
Publisher : MVP Books
ISBN 13 : 1616731087
Total Pages : 208 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (167 download)
Download or read book Legends of Surfing written by Duke Boyd and published by MVP Books. This book was released on 2009-11-07 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing, Jack London remarked, is “a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.” The greatest of those natural kings grant readers an audience in this glorious celebration of the world’s best surfers. Part exquisite picture book and travelogue to the top of the world, part biography and reference guidebook, Legends of Surfing profiles one hundred great surfers, men and women, from throughout the world. In life stories, and in exclusive interviews--which only the surfing icon Duke Boyd could have pulled off--stellar surfers such as Wayne Bartholomew, Tom Curren, Andy and Bruce Irons, Duke Kahanamoku, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Rob Machado, Mark Occhilupo, and Kelly Slater give us a rare firsthand look at what it’s like, in this crowded world, to “seek and find the perfect day, the perfect wave, and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” (John Severson, Surfer magazine, 1960)
Author : Lauren L. Hill
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559989
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (599 download)
Download or read book She Surf written by Lauren L. Hill and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2020 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Join the celebration of the diverse, vibrant, and engaged community of women riding and making waves around the globe. While surfing is usually seen as a male domain, women have long been nurturing their own water stories and claiming their rightful place in the world of this sport. She Surf hails the females, past and present, who are engaged in expanding the art of surfing. Through exclusive interviews and evocative imagery, the book travels from the iconic waves of Hawaii to remote locations in Morocco. Learn about the forgotten stories of Polynesian surfing princesses, pioneering wave riders from the 1960s, and the contemporary movers and shakers shaping the scene. This book is an exciting reflection on what it means to be a female surfer and what it means to be moved to action by the beauty of the sea.
Author : Nat Young
Publisher : Gibbs Smith Publishers
ISBN 13 : 1423601211
Total Pages : 222 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (236 download)
Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Nat Young and published by Gibbs Smith Publishers. This book was released on 2006-07-14 with total page 222 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book covers the full gamut of surfing topics, including the history,rofessionalism, surfboard evolution, professional surfers, the Hawaiianslands, kneeboards, wave skills, windsurfers, and the future of surfing. Itlso includes lots and lots of rare color photos covering surfing's excitingast and present.
Author : Jim Kempton
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1643137255
Total Pages : 304 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (431 download)
Download or read book Women on Waves written by Jim Kempton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2021-07-06 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make it’s Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia, From Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.
Author : Michael Scott Moore
Publisher : Rodale Books
ISBN 13 : 160529098X
Total Pages : 338 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (52 download)
Download or read book Sweetness and Blood written by Michael Scott Moore and published by Rodale Books. This book was released on 2011-05-26 with total page 338 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: How did an obscure tribal sport from precolonial Hawaii—one that was nearly eliminated by Christian missionaries—jump oceans to California and Australia? And how did it become such a worldwide passion, even in places where the surf may be excellent but the society is highly conservative or superstitious about the sea? In Sweetness and Blood—a brilliantly written travel adventure—journalist (and surfer) Michael Scott Moore visits unlikely surfing destinations—Israel and the Gaza Strip, West Africa, Great Britain, Germany, Indonesia, Japan, Cuba, and Morocco—to find out. Whether he is connecting eccentric surf legend Doc Paskowitz to the Arab-Israeli conflict, trying to deconstruct the terrorist bombing in a nightclub in Bali, or being chased by the German police while surfing a river break in Berlin, Moore masterfully weaves together politics, culture, history, and surfing to create a book like no other.
Author : David Davis
Publisher : U of Nebraska Press
ISBN 13 : 0803254776
Total Pages : 352 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (32 download)
Download or read book Waterman written by David Davis and published by U of Nebraska Press. This book was released on 2015-10-01 with total page 352 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890–1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman. Long before Michael Phelps and Mark Spitz made their splashes in the pool, Kahanamoku emerged from the backwaters of Waikiki to become America’s first superstar Olympic swimmer. The original “human fish” set dozens of world records and topped the world rankings for more than a decade; his rivalry with Johnny Weissmuller transformed competitive swimming from an insignificant sideshow into a headliner event. Kahanamoku used his Olympic renown to introduce the sport of “surf-riding,” an activity unknown beyond the Hawaiian Islands, to the world. Standing proudly on his traditional wooden longboard, he spread surfing from Australia to the Hollywood crowd in California to New Jersey. No American athlete has influenced two sports as profoundly as Kahanamoku did, and yet he remains an enigmatic and underappreciated figure: a dark-skinned Pacific Islander who encountered and overcame racism and ignorance long before the likes of Joe Louis, Jesse Owens, and Jackie Robinson. Kahanamoku’s connection to his homeland was equally important. He was born when Hawaii was an independent kingdom; he served as the sheriff of Honolulu during Pearl Harbor and World War II and as a globetrotting “Ambassador of Aloha” afterward; he died not long after Hawaii attained statehood. As one sportswriter put it, Duke was “Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey combined down here.” In Waterman, award-winning journalist David Davis examines the remarkable life of Duke Kahanamoku, in and out of the water. Purchase the audio edition.
Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
ISBN 13 : 9780156032513
Total Pages : 820 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (325 download)
Download or read book The Encyclopedia of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. This book was released on 2005 with total page 820 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.
Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 1452100942
Total Pages : 497 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (521 download)
Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2011-04-29 with total page 497 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is “meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading” (Outside Magazine). Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of Warshaw’s endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made surfing history happen. “The world’s most comprehensive chronicler of the surfing scene.” —Andy Martin, The Independent
Author :
Publisher : TCU Press
ISBN 13 : 9780875651750
Total Pages : 1072 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (517 download)
Download or read book Updating the Literary West written by and published by TCU Press. This book was released on 1997 with total page 1072 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Western writers," says Thomas J. Lyon in his epilogue to Updating the Literary West, "have grown up with the frontier myth but now find themselves in the early stages of creating a new western myth." The editors of the Literary History of the American West (TCU Press, 1987) hoped that the first volume would begin, not conclude, their exploration of the West's literary heritage. Out of this hope comes Updating the Literary West, a comprehensive reference anthology including essays by over one hundred scholars. A selected bibliography is included with each piece. In the ten years since publication of LHAW, western writing has developed a significantly larger presence in the national literary stream. A variety of cultural viewpoints have developed, along with new tactics for literary study. New authors have risen to prominence, and the range of subjects has changed and widened. Updating the Literary West looks at topics ranging from western classics to cowboys and Cadillacs and considers children's literature, ethnicity, environmental writing, gender issues and other topics in which change has been rapid since publication of LHAW. This volume again affirms the West's literary legitimacy--status hard earned by the Western Literary Association--and the lasting place of popular western writing as part of the growing and changing literary--and American--experience. An excellent reference for a wide range of readers and an invaluable resource for scholars and libraries. Selected list of contributors: James Maguire Fred Erisman Susan J. Rosowski Gerald Haslam Tom Pilkington A. Carl Bredahl Richard Slotkin John G. Cawelti Robert F. Gish Ann Ronald Mick McAllister
Author : Jason Borte
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 1626364567
Total Pages : 240 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (263 download)
Download or read book The Kook's Guide to Surfing written by Jason Borte and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2013-06-01 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Move over, dude! The Kook’s Guide to Surfing shows what it means to be a real surfer. This clever, often hilarious guide shares with kooks (those guys on surfboards who just don’t get it yet) the truths and know-how of a lifelong wave-lover. The secret: surfing responsibly and sharing the waves. You don’t have to be “too cool for school” to be cool in the water. But surfing like a pro isn’t just about courtesy, and neither is The Kook’s Guide to Surfing. The ultimate guide to great surfing, it’s got tips on choosing the right board for the right wave, stances and paddling, avoiding injuries and staying safe, and—once all that has been mastered—how and where to show off your skills in the big competitions. Other topics include: First lessons and helpful tips Physical fitness Types of waves Surf etiquette Buying surfboards An index of the best surf locations Filled with witty illustrations, a glossary of surfing terminology, and fun “Hey, Kook!” trivia, The Kook’s Guide to Surfing will turn even the greenest beginners into knockout surfing pros.
