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Surfing The Sea Of Chi
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Book Synopsis Surfing the Sea of Chi by : Lea Williamson
Download or read book Surfing the Sea of Chi written by Lea Williamson and published by . This book was released on 2019-11-20 with total page 248 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In an effort to overcome her lifelong fear of all things water, Lea takes up the challenge of surfing at forty years old. Even in the clear, shallow waters of Cocoa Beach, with her friend and avid surfer Mersea at her side, she struggles to catch her breath in waist-deep water because of her intense fear. But, using tai chi and qigong breath work techniques, she is able to calm her breathing and quickly realizes surfing is a lot like tai chi. Although going mostly unnoticed, breathing is the key to not only Lea's surfing success but also living a healthy, vibrant life. She explains how a healthy breath creates mind-body health. She also teaches us that the opposite is true: a panic, fear-based breath creates a life of anxiety. Each chapter begins with words from the primary Taoist text, the Tao Te Ching, and then uses those principles to explore surfing as a form of Taoism. Lea provides evidence of how chi arts can help heal many individual, societal, and environmental diseases in a cost-effective manner. Lea recognizes "spirit" as a simple, natural energy, not out of the ordinary. For complete health, people need harmony of mind, body, and spirit. Interwoven throughout her surf story is the need for self-responsible daily choices in order to achieve balance and harmony. You will be left with a sense of empowerment and the knowledge of simple chi arts techniques that have profound personal and planetary health impacts.
Book Synopsis Surfer of the Century by : Ellie Crowe
Download or read book Surfer of the Century written by Ellie Crowe and published by . This book was released on 2007 with total page 56 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "A brief biography of Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku, five-time Olympic swimming champion from the early 1900s who is also considered worldwide as the 'father of modern surfing'"--Provided by publisher.
Download or read book Surf written by Casey Koteen and published by Weldon Owen International. This book was released on 2013-10-29 with total page 242 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The editors of TransWorld SURF share inside information and jaw-dropping photography in this comprehensive guide to the one-hundred best surf spots on Earth. The editors of TransWorld SURF magazine have been all over—from Australia and California to emerging destinations in West Africa, Japan, Norway and beyond—searching for the best beaches and waves with some of the world’s top surfers. This book collects amazing photos of the one-hundred top spots around the world, along with the pro tips and travel details you need to go there yourself. SURF: 100 Greatest Waves takes you from classic locales, such as Mexico, Fiji, and Thailand, to inside secret spots like Iceland, India, and Wales. Whether you’re a globetrotting barrelhunter chasing the perfect wave, or a weekend wave-rider dreaming of the perfect vacation, let SURF: 100 Greatest Waves take you there.
Book Synopsis Saltwater in the Blood by : Easkey Britton
Download or read book Saltwater in the Blood written by Easkey Britton and published by Watkins Media Limited. This book was released on 2021-09-28 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Powerful feminist nature writing by the pioneer of women's big-wave surfing in Ireland. Easkey Britton provides a rare female perspective on surfing, exploring the mental skills it fosters, and the need to recognize the value of the ocean and of nature's cycles in our lives. This is an incredibly inspiring exploration of the sea's role in the wellness of people and the planet, beautifully written by Easkey Britton – surfer, scientist and social activist. She offers a powerful female perspective on the sea and surfing, explaining what it’s like to be a woman in a man's world and how she promoted the sport to women in Iran, surfing while wearing a hijab. She speaks of the undiscussed taboo around entering the water while menstruating – and of how she has come to celebrate her own bodily cycles. She has developed her own approach to surfing, which instead of seeking to dominate the waves, works in tune with the natural cycles of her body, the moon and the seasons. In a society that rewards busyness, she believes that understanding the influence of cycles becomes even more important – and we all have them, men and women. For Easkey, the sea is a source of mental and physical wellbeing. She explores the mental toughness needed in big-wave surfing, and presents surfing as an embodied mindfulness practice in which we can find flow and connect with the movement of the waves. She stresses the need to recognize the ocean as our most powerful ally when addressing our greatest global challenge: the climate crisis. Above all, Easkey’s relationship to the sea has taught her about the need to meet life and evolve with it, rather than seeking to control it. By such wisdom our planet might just survive and thrive.
Download or read book Deep in the Wave written by Bear Woznick and published by Center Street. This book was released on 2012-07-10 with total page 116 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: For world-class surfer Bear Woznick, the ocean has always been the center of his universe. He's spent his entire life with it; riding its waves, learning from it, loving it. The ocean also nourishes the soul as Bear shows us on his surfboard. In DEEP IN THE WAVE, readers ride along with Woznick through the calmest of tides and most turbulent waves. Woznick's portrayal of the beauty and power of the ocean is truly inspiring and showcases the profound meaning surfing has had on his life. From the way a surfboard is painstakingly crafted, to the faith and patience that is required to ride a monster wave, Woznick weaves his relationship to surfing with his relationship to God, relating how the two are often one in the same. Instead of standing on the shore with our toes in the surf, Woznick takes us on the board--to the deep water--to watch and wait--and, if need be, to paddle hard to survive.
Download or read book The Rattle of Theta Chi written by and published by Theta Chi Fraternity Inc. This book was released on 1966 with total page 36 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis The Zen of Oceans and Surfing: Wit, Wisdom, and Inspiration by :
Download or read book The Zen of Oceans and Surfing: Wit, Wisdom, and Inspiration written by and published by Skipstone. This book was released on with total page 113 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Walking on Water by : Jeremy V. Jones
Download or read book Walking on Water written by Jeremy V. Jones and published by Gospel Light Publications. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 198 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing is spiritual. Ask most wave riders and they’ll describe some sense of deeper connection with the water, the waves or the power around them. Surfing to them is a spiritual experience. In a subculture that’s traditionally known for its rebellion, here you’ll find a deep undercurrent of faith amongst these top wave riders who share an understanding that the Creator of the waves also desires to know and relate with them. In these pages, you’ll meet top surfers such as C.J. Hobgood, who rose to the top of the surf world but found it ultimately dissatisfying; Bethany Hamilton, a courageous teen who survived a shark attack and returned to the sport; surf legend Tom Curren, a middle-aged father of four whose comeback of sorts is the talk of the surf world; and Al Merrick, a remarkable surfboard shaper who crafts the vehicles ridden by surf stars. Discover what makes these celebrities and others believe that surfing is meaningless without a deep satisfying faith in something more.
Book Synopsis Eddie Would Go by : Stuart Holmes Coleman
Download or read book Eddie Would Go written by Stuart Holmes Coleman and published by Macmillan + ORM. This book was released on 2004-02-07 with total page 292 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This biography of legendary Hawaiian surfer Eddie Aikau is “a homespun homage to a modern-day folk hero” (Outside Magazine). In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a “waterman.” As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule’a. From Stuart Holmes Coleman, Eddie Would Go is the “fascinating” story of Eddie Aikau’s life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii (San Francisco Chronicle). “Enlightening . . . an impressive history.” —Surfing Magazine “A meaningful biography of a surfing hero . . . extraordinary.” —San Diego Union-Tribune “Coleman, a surfer himself, does an admirable job of de-mystifying this remarkable man.” —St. Petersburg Times
Download or read book Pacific Passages written by Patrick Moser and published by University of Hawaii Press. This book was released on 2008-05-08 with total page 354 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled long wooden boards into the ocean, modern surfers have continued this practice, which has recently been transformed into a global industry. Pacific Passages brings together four centuries of writing about surfing, the most comprehensive collection of Polynesian and Western perspectives on the history and culture of a sport currently enjoyed by millions of people around the world. The stories begin with Hawaiian legends and chants and are followed by the journals of explorers; the travel narratives of missionaries and luminaries such as Herman Melville, Mark Twain, and Jack London; and the contemporary observations of Tom Wolfe, William Finnegan, Susan Orlean, and Bob Shacochis. Readers follow the historical transformation of surfing’s image through the centuries: from Polynesian myths of love to Western accounts of horror and exoticism in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, to modern representations of surfing as a character-building activity in pre-World-War II California and the quintessential expression of disaffected youth. They explore the sport’s most recent trends by writers and cultural critics, whose insights into technology, competition, gender, heritage, and globalism reveal how surfing impacts some of today’s most pressing social concerns. Aided by informative introductions, the writings in Pacific Passages provide insight into the values and ideals of Polynesian and Western cultures, revealing how each has altered and been altered by surfing—and how the sport itself has shown an amazing ability throughout the centuries to survive, adapt, and prosper.
Download or read book Surfing written by and published by . This book was released on 1983 with total page 124 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Download or read book Surfing written by Ben R. Finney and published by Pomegranate. This book was released on 1996 with total page 126 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing traces the history of the sport from its beginnings in ancient Hawaii through the mid 1960s. This revised edition of the 1966 classic features extensive illustrations, a new introduction, and articles by Mark Twain and Jack London recounting their observations on surfing. The book also explores the development of the surfboard and follows surfing's timeline from the earliest legends to the accomplishments of modern surfing heroes.
Book Synopsis The Kook's Guide to Surfing by : Jason Borte
Download or read book The Kook's Guide to Surfing written by Jason Borte and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2013-06-01 with total page 240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Move over, dude! The Kook’s Guide to Surfing shows what it means to be a real surfer. This clever, often hilarious guide shares with kooks (those guys on surfboards who just don’t get it yet) the truths and know-how of a lifelong wave-lover. The secret: surfing responsibly and sharing the waves. You don’t have to be “too cool for school” to be cool in the water. But surfing like a pro isn’t just about courtesy, and neither is The Kook’s Guide to Surfing. The ultimate guide to great surfing, it’s got tips on choosing the right board for the right wave, stances and paddling, avoiding injuries and staying safe, and—once all that has been mastered—how and where to show off your skills in the big competitions. Other topics include: First lessons and helpful tips Physical fitness Types of waves Surf etiquette Buying surfboards An index of the best surf locations Filled with witty illustrations, a glossary of surfing terminology, and fun “Hey, Kook!” trivia, The Kook’s Guide to Surfing will turn even the greenest beginners into knockout surfing pros.
Book Synopsis Mindful Thoughts for Surfers by : Sam Bleakley
Download or read book Mindful Thoughts for Surfers written by Sam Bleakley and published by Leaping Hare Press. This book was released on 2020-03-10 with total page 163 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mindful Thoughts for Surfers explores how meditative a life on the surfboard can be. These 25 insightful musings will inspire beginners and experts alike. The heightened attention in surfing and the meditative nature of water facilitate the perfect opportunity to practise mindfulness. Sam Bleakley is an international longboard champion and advocate for all forms of waveriding. With an interest in Buddhism and Taoism, he discusses: Blue mindfulness - identifying with the ocean The connection to nature Dropping the ego Embracing imperfection Responsibility and diversity The opportunity for play, beauty, and music Through these reflections, Sam explores how riding the waves is the ultimate meditation and offers an astute awareness of what the oceans tell us about our place in the natural world—if we would just listen. His illuminating meditations, each beautifully illustrated, make this book perfect for dipping into and offer a gentle gateway into life-affirmingawareness for everyone. If you like this you might also be interested in Mindful Thoughts for Runners . . .
Book Synopsis North Shore Chronicles by : Bruce Jenkins
Download or read book North Shore Chronicles written by Bruce Jenkins and published by Frog Books. This book was released on 2005-08-05 with total page 284 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.
Book Synopsis Surfing and Spirituality by : Leslie Kerby
Download or read book Surfing and Spirituality written by Leslie Kerby and published by Createspace Independent Pub. This book was released on 2013-03-04 with total page 60 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: An in-depth look at surfing as a form of spirituality and way of life. Real surfing, real stories, real spirituality. Reviews: "Drawing on philosophy, religion, science, literature, and her own experience, Leslie Kerby deftly reveals why so many of us find solace and peace in the sea. I loved this book." Jaimal Yogis, author of Saltwater Buddha and The Fear Project Surfing And Spirituality is the only book I've ever read to capture the true essence of why we are drawn to the ocean and surfing. If you surf or just love the ocean you just "get it." Where "it" is the nearly indescribable sensation of infinite connection and presence we feel when riding a wave. Leslie has finally put a voice to this spiritual calling we have to the waves. She proves without a doubt we who ride the waves do so for much more than fun. We do it to experience a spiritual connection that can't be found in any church or religious practice. Incredibly well researched and written in a decidedly academic but friendly and relatable voice. I highly recommend Surfing And Spirituality to anyone who loves the ocean or feels that omnipresent drive to reconnect with who we really are. - Ryan Camana
Download or read book Surfing the South written by Steve Estes and published by UNC Press Books. This book was released on 2022-02-23 with total page 214 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When most Americans think of surfing, they often envision waves off the coasts of California, Hawai'i, or even New Jersey. What few know is that the South has its own surf culture. To fully explore this unsung surfing world, Steve Estes undertook a journey that stretched more than 2,300 miles, traveling from the coast of Texas to Ocean City, Maryland. Along the way he interviewed and surfed alongside dozens of people—wealthy and poor, men and women, Black and white—all of whom opened up about their lives, how they saw themselves, and what the sport means to them. They also talked about race, class, the environment, and how surfing has shaped their identities. The cast includes a retired Mississippi riverboat captain and alligator hunter who was one of the first to surf the Gulf Coast of Louisiana, a Pensacola sheet-metal worker who ran the China Beach Surf Club while he was stationed in Vietnam, and a Daytona Beach swimsuit model who shot the curl in the 1966 World Surfing Championships before circumnavigating the globe in search of waves and adventure. From these varied and surprising stories emerge a complex, sometimes troubling, but nevertheless beautiful picture of the modern South and its people.
