Surfing Is My Passion

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The Average Surfer's Guide

Author : Simon Short
Publisher : Createspace Independent Publishing Platform
ISBN 13 : 9781985861886
Total Pages : 148 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (618 download)

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Book Synopsis The Average Surfer's Guide by : Simon Short

Download or read book The Average Surfer's Guide written by Simon Short and published by Createspace Independent Publishing Platform. This book was released on 2018-11-14 with total page 148 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Heart warming read that discusses depression, radical life change, and muses on the plight of the lifelong intermediate... grab a copy on Amazon" - David Lee Scales, Surf Splendor Podcast "I can recommend this book for non-surfers as much as surfers. It goes a long way towards explaining the hook that keeps people addicted to surfing and provides some personal lessons that can be applied to all walks of life" - Charlie Spurr - The Museum of British Surfing "Once I started reading, I couldn't put it down. The writing is wonderful and Simon really nails it when he defines what an average surfer is and how surfing affects us all" - Imi Barneaud, The Ocean Riders Podcast "Short uses the term "average" not as in mediocre, but to make it relatable to the masses of surfers who are not professionals, and not beginners, but the wave-riders in between. He teaches life lessons with every chapter. You can be scared, intimidated, proud and brave, all in one session" - The Orange County Register From the author of "A Story about Surfing, Identity and Depression" comes the #1 New Release 'The Average Surfer's Guide' The Average Surfer's Guide to Travel, Waves and Progression is a book about surfing as much as it is about mental health, life balance and prioritizing one's passions. The author explores the metaphysical effects of surfing, the biological effects of surfing and how the sport, percolated into a lifestyle opens us up to travel, adventure, community and a true belonging and identity. The book takes us into situations that many are familiar with, but few of us speak of. Short bravely shares details from his darker days fighting a severe depression before learning some valuable life lessons. "Simon Short sat at the end of a Newport Beach rock jetty in the darkness, clutching a gun and ready to end his life as his depression hit an all-time low. For years, Short thought he was on the right track. The surfer from England moved to California after visiting for a surf trip in his early 20s, met a girl who became his wife and had a career as a police officer near Palm Springs. This was what he was supposed to do, right? When it all came crashing down a few years later, he found himself staring out into the ocean, the place that had been his one constant source of solace since he was a teen." Feb 2019 - The OC Register The Average Surfer's Guide takes a unique approach by forgetting the glamour of professional surfing and telling honest, humorous and engaging stories from a true, every-day, average surfer. The book teaches us how to progress away from complacency, both in our surfing and our everyday lives. In the end, this book will make you a better surfer. Not through technique but through teaching a new mindset and outlook towards life and surfing. The Average Surfer's Guide takes us on a journey from dark to light and teaches us how to live a true, balanced life that is authentic to who we are and what makes us happy. In this case, surfing.

Soul Surfer

Author : Bethany Hamilton
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
ISBN 13 : 147110950X
Total Pages : 218 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (711 download)

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Book Synopsis Soul Surfer by : Bethany Hamilton

Download or read book Soul Surfer written by Bethany Hamilton and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2012-12-25 with total page 218 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the tremendous passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing - not even the loss of her arm in a horrific shark attack - could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii Bethany responded to the shark's stealth with a calmness beyond belief. Pushing pain and panic aside, she immediately thought: 'Get to the beach...' Rushed to the hospital, where her father, Ted Hamilton, was about to undergo knee surgery, Bethany found herself taking his spot in the operating theatre. When the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was 'When can I surf again?' it became clear that her unfaltering spirit and determination were part of a greater story - a tale of courage and faith that this modest and soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world.

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Surfing with Sartre

Author : Aaron James
Publisher : Anchor
ISBN 13 : 0385540744
Total Pages : 342 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (855 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing with Sartre by : Aaron James

Download or read book Surfing with Sartre written by Aaron James and published by Anchor. This book was released on 2017-08-08 with total page 342 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.

Let My People Go Surfing

Author : Yvon Chouinard
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 1101201223
Total Pages : 276 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (12 download)

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Book Synopsis Let My People Go Surfing by : Yvon Chouinard

Download or read book Let My People Go Surfing written by Yvon Chouinard and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2006-09-05 with total page 276 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now. From the Trade Paperback edition.

Be Unstoppable

Author : Bethany Hamilton
Publisher : Zondervan
ISBN 13 : 0310764904
Total Pages : 129 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (17 download)

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Book Synopsis Be Unstoppable by : Bethany Hamilton

Download or read book Be Unstoppable written by Bethany Hamilton and published by Zondervan. This book was released on 2018-06-05 with total page 129 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Showcasing page after page of breathtaking photos and life-changing inspiration from champion surfer and Christian role model Bethany Hamilton, Be Unstoppable is a beautiful gift of encouragement for any young adult to boldly follow your passions, live in faith, and be unstoppable as well. After losing her left arm to a 14-foot tiger shark and returning to the competitive surfing waters a month later, New York Times bestselling author and champion surfer Bethany Hamilton is the heroine in one of the biggest comeback stories of our era. In Be Unstoppable, Bethany shares how faith, love, and passion have been the fuel to push her beyond all expectations. Alongside her insights are spectacular, full-color photos of Bethany the world-class surfer in action, capturing both her mastery of her sport as well as the beauty and raw power of the ocean. Whether in school, sports, faith, or friendships, the tenacity, courage, and wisdom that pops from these pages will help you find the unstoppable in your own life. Be bold. Be inspired. Be unstoppable. Be Unstoppable: Features the inspirational words of sought-after public speaker, champion surfer, and spiritual icon Bethany Hamilton Includes more than 60 breathtaking photos from the making of her new documentary, Bethany Hamilton: Unstoppable Captures Bethany's sense of wonder and adventure throughout every page Is a full-color, giftable photo book with a decorated cover

An Audience of One

Author : Srinivas Rao
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 110198175X
Total Pages : 163 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (19 download)

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Book Synopsis An Audience of One by : Srinivas Rao

Download or read book An Audience of One written by Srinivas Rao and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2018-08-07 with total page 163 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The creator of the Unmistakable Creative podcast makes a counterintuitive argument: By focusing your creative work on pleasing yourself, you can increase your productivity, happiness, and (eventually, paradoxically) the size of your audience. Creating for your own pleasure--whether you're writing a novel, composing songs, or painting a landscape--can seem pointless. It's tempting to focus on pursuing money and fame, rather than the process itself. But as Srini Rao warns, creating then turns into a chore that can harm your self-esteem and suck the pleasure out of life, rather than being a source of joy. Rao, host of the podcast The Unmistakable Creative, argues that we should counter this thinking by intentionally creating art for ourselves alone--an audience of one. In this book he shares the fascinating true stories of creatives who took this path, along with actionable tips and the research of creativity experts. You'll learn, for example: How Oprah's intentional focus on her own work rather than the opinions of everyone else catapulted her into one of the most popular talk shows of all time. How being process-driven can not only help you produce more work, but can make you happier outside of your creative time. How to put together a creative "team of rivals" whose feedback can help you hone your craft and filter out useless feedback. By playing to an audience of one, we can find more happiness, increased productivity, and a greater sense of community.

Wingnut's Complete Surfing

Author : Robert Weaver
Publisher : McGraw Hill Professional
ISBN 13 : 0071636994
Total Pages : 257 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (716 download)

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Book Synopsis Wingnut's Complete Surfing by : Robert Weaver

Download or read book Wingnut's Complete Surfing written by Robert Weaver and published by McGraw Hill Professional. This book was released on 2009-05-08 with total page 257 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From a world-class expert and one of the sport’s greatest legends comes the only total guide for surfing Surfing is a sport that anyone can pick up and enjoy with the right instruction. Yet many how-to books fail to address crucial basics such as wave dynamics, board design and performance, and strategies for paddling out through the wave breaks. Wingnut’s Complete Surfing covers all this and more, providing you with a complete guide.

AFROSURF

Author : Mami Wata
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
ISBN 13 : 1984860410
Total Pages : 320 pages
Book Rating : 4.9/5 (848 download)

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Book Synopsis AFROSURF by : Mami Wata

Download or read book AFROSURF written by Mami Wata and published by Ten Speed Press. This book was released on 2021-06-15 with total page 320 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.

Surfing

Author : Linda Chase
Publisher : Gibbs Smith
ISBN 13 : 9781423601791
Total Pages : 188 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (17 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing by : Linda Chase

Download or read book Surfing written by Linda Chase and published by Gibbs Smith. This book was released on 2007 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: As the official counterculture sport of the 1960s, surfing was not just a sport but a lifestyle, one long, sun-drenched beach party with endless waves and music, as well as an unapologetically masculine culture. This notion has since been disproved by generations of amazing female surfers who have made an indelible mark on the sport. Surfing: Women of the Waves highlights some of these extraordinary women of surfing, from Linda Benson and Joyce Hoffman in the 1950s and 1960s to Layne Beachley, Sofia Mulanovich, Bethany Hamilton, and the great Lisa Andersen, four-time women's world champion. Today, women of all ages and skill levels have taken their place among the waves-longboarders, shortboarders, goofyfooters, hotdoggers, young girls, and surfer moms-these are the women of the waves!

When Oceans Rise

Author : Daniel Hamlin
Publisher : WestBow Press
ISBN 13 : 1490879307
Total Pages : 96 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (98 download)

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Book Synopsis When Oceans Rise by : Daniel Hamlin

Download or read book When Oceans Rise written by Daniel Hamlin and published by WestBow Press. This book was released on 2015-05-08 with total page 96 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: There is no formula to life; it is a constant and ever-changing learning process. We all experience trials of varying degrees, and how we navigate through them can have a tremendous impact on the direction of our lives. Learning to hear the Holy Spirit through Scripture provides an anchor in the midst of the storm. Recounting tales from the surf as well as lessons learned along the way, When Oceans Rise encourages you to dig deeper into Gods Word to find comfort and guidance in all of lifes seasons. There are certain people in my life that I love to be around because they have spent a lot of time with God. Dan Hamlin is one of those friends. When Oceans Rise reminds me of the many meaningful conversations we have shared together. It is one thing to know about God, but there is a level of wisdom and insight that comes only from those like Dan who have experienced a long relationship with Jesus Christ. This book will bring you closer to the maker of the waves. Bryan Jennings, founder of Walking on Water Ministries What a fun and encouraging read! When Oceans Rise is a sweet offering of lifes most profound moments and lessons, as told by a young man learning to follow Jesus with reckless abandon and a surfboard! Set against the backdrop of an all-loving God and His promises, this journal-style book is sure to encourage and inspire all of us who are trying to understand how to best ride the tides of life. There is real encouragement in these pages. Enjoy Brad Corrigan, member of the band Dispatch, founder of the Love, Light, & Melody organization

The History of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
ISBN 13 : 0811856003
Total Pages : 498 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (118 download)

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Book Synopsis The History of Surfing by : Matt Warshaw

Download or read book The History of Surfing written by Matt Warshaw and published by Chronicle Books. This book was released on 2010-09 with total page 498 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

The Essential Wayne Dyer Collection

Author : Wayne W. Dyer
Publisher : Hay House
ISBN 13 : 1401944221
Total Pages : 801 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (19 download)

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Book Synopsis The Essential Wayne Dyer Collection by : Wayne W. Dyer

Download or read book The Essential Wayne Dyer Collection written by Wayne W. Dyer and published by Hay House. This book was released on 2013 with total page 801 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Excuses begone!: Offers guidance in reconnecting with one's spiritual source to find direction and meaning in all areas of life.

Surfing and Sustainability

Author : Gregory Borne
Publisher : Routledge
ISBN 13 : 1317515498
Total Pages : 252 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (175 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing and Sustainability by : Gregory Borne

Download or read book Surfing and Sustainability written by Gregory Borne and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2018-07-04 with total page 252 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfing and Sustainability presents a new way of understanding the impact of surfing on the environment, society and the economy, providing important insights into the field of sustainability and arguing that the activity of surfing offers a unique opportunity to explore the ambiguity of sustainability. The book contextualises surfing within current debates on sustainability and applies these debates to an innovative theoretical framework drawn from elements of a risk society and sociotechnical transitions. The book discusses the capacity of surfing to influence behaviour, both at an individual and organisational level, exploring sustainability from a range of perspectives including industry, the charity sector, media and celebrity culture. Featuring a range of international case studies, it analyses the greening of the surf industry through topics such as ECOBOARD surfboard manufacturing, business innovation and branding, environmental activism, information technology and surf forecasting, as well as the expansion of artificial wave technology. The book also considers the future directions of surfing and how the inclusion of surfing in the 2020 Olympic Games will impact sustainability debates. This is important reading for academics and scholars, as well as undergraduate and postgraduate students working and studying in sports studies, sociology, geography, economics, psychology, marine science, coastal management and economics. It is also a valuable resource for practitioners across the globe.

Surf Shacks

Author : Matt Titone
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559071
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (59 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Shacks by : Matt Titone

Download or read book Surf Shacks written by Matt Titone and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2017 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many abodes can fall under the label of surf shack: New York City apartments, cabins nestled next to national parks, or tiny Hawaiian huts. Surfing communities are overflowing with creativity, innovation, and rich personas. Surf Shacks takes a deeper look at surfers' homes and artistic habits. Glimpses of record collections, strolls through backyard gardens, or a peek into a painter's studio provide insight into surfers' lives both on and off shore. From the remote Hawaiian nook of filmmaker Jess Bianchi to the woodsy Japanese paradise that the former CEO of Surfrider Foundation in Japan, Hiromi Masubara, calls home to the converted bus that Ryan Lovelace claims as his domicile and his transport, every space has a unique tale. The moments that these vibrant personalities spend away from the swell and the froth are both captivating and nuanced.

From My Chair

Author : Humberto Gurmilan
Publisher : Page Publishing Inc
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 146 pages
Book Rating : 4./5 ( download)

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Book Synopsis From My Chair by : Humberto Gurmilan

Download or read book From My Chair written by Humberto Gurmilan and published by Page Publishing Inc. This book was released on 2012-12 with total page 146 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From My Chair is the chronicle of events that followed after a traumatic accident that impacted the life of Humberto Gurmilan. It recounts the event that changed his life as well as the ensuing rehabilitation and recovery, but also touches on important areas of life like love, family and perseverance in a profound yet conversational style. The author has transformed a tragedy into a positive mission and one of his goals is to deliver this message to as many people as he can.

She Surf

Author : Lauren L. Hill
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559989
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (599 download)

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Book Synopsis She Surf by : Lauren L. Hill

Download or read book She Surf written by Lauren L. Hill and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2020 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Join the celebration of the diverse, vibrant, and engaged community of women riding and making waves around the globe. While surfing is usually seen as a male domain, women have long been nurturing their own water stories and claiming their rightful place in the world of this sport. She Surf hails the females, past and present, who are engaged in expanding the art of surfing. Through exclusive interviews and evocative imagery, the book travels from the iconic waves of Hawaii to remote locations in Morocco. Learn about the forgotten stories of Polynesian surfing princesses, pioneering wave riders from the 1960s, and the contemporary movers and shakers shaping the scene. This book is an exciting reflection on what it means to be a female surfer and what it means to be moved to action by the beauty of the sea.