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Surfing Brilliant Corners
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Book Synopsis Surfing Brilliant Corners by : Sam Bleakley
Download or read book Surfing Brilliant Corners written by Sam Bleakley and published by Alison Hodge Publishers. This book was released on 2010 with total page 196 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Professional longboarder Sam Bleakley details a decade of extreme global surf travel.
Book Synopsis Surfing Tropical Beats by : Sam Bleakley
Download or read book Surfing Tropical Beats written by Sam Bleakley and published by Alison Hodge Publishers. This book was released on 2012 with total page 250 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sam Bleakley and the surf EXPLORE team take us on a roller coaster ride through Gabon, India, Vietnam, Algeria, China and Haiti, drumming up a tropical beat. Combining 'Deep Travel', John Callahan's incredible photography and Sam's performance writing, they capture the spirit of these turbulent coast scapes, blood racing, running on salt water fuel. The wide belt around the Equator - the tropics - has become an alluring path for travel, but a region often steeped in war and environmental disasters. Sam and surf EXPLORE go off the regular route, carving a niche, collaborating with locals, documenting the occasion poetically and with precision. Where 'waves transform from green glass to white foam, the surfboard is the frozen double of that transition - a rainbow bridge that allows you to step in the blink of an eye from inertia to adrenaline-fuelled ecstasy to the fear of the water-wrestling hold-down.' The paradoxical red hot and cool blue of surfing, and the often icy logic of preparation for challenging travel, form a matrix from which springs a distinctive kind of writing as performance. By turns, surf EXPLORE gather their wits at the cross roads where 'lovers part and souls get taken by the lost high way, lured down the wrong route.'
Download or read book Cocaine + Surfing written by Chas Smith and published by Rare Bird Books. This book was released on 2019-12-11 with total page 188 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.
Book Synopsis Mindfulness and Surfing by : Sam Bleakley
Download or read book Mindfulness and Surfing written by Sam Bleakley and published by . This book was released on 2016 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Mindfulness and Surfing by : Sam Bleakley
Download or read book Mindfulness and Surfing written by Sam Bleakley and published by Leaping Hare Press. This book was released on 2017-03-02 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation. Engaging author Sam Bleakley takes us on a soulful journey across the tideline of his personal and philosophical travels. Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, he reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural world. Meditating on one of natureâ??s greatest elements â?? its salty swells, flow and peaks â?? he shares life lessons in mindfulness that will be relished by surfer and non-surfer alike.
Book Synopsis Mindful Thoughts for Surfers by : Sam Bleakley
Download or read book Mindful Thoughts for Surfers written by Sam Bleakley and published by Leaping Hare Press. This book was released on 2020-03-10 with total page 163 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Mindful Thoughts for Surfers explores how meditative a life on the surfboard can be. These 25 insightful musings will inspire beginners and experts alike. The heightened attention in surfing and the meditative nature of water facilitate the perfect opportunity to practise mindfulness. Sam Bleakley is an international longboard champion and advocate for all forms of waveriding. With an interest in Buddhism and Taoism, he discusses: Blue mindfulness - identifying with the ocean The connection to nature Dropping the ego Embracing imperfection Responsibility and diversity The opportunity for play, beauty, and music Through these reflections, Sam explores how riding the waves is the ultimate meditation and offers an astute awareness of what the oceans tell us about our place in the natural world—if we would just listen. His illuminating meditations, each beautifully illustrated, make this book perfect for dipping into and offer a gentle gateway into life-affirmingawareness for everyone. If you like this you might also be interested in Mindful Thoughts for Runners . . .
Download or read book Shooting the Curl written by Chris Power and published by Orca Publications. This book was released on 2010-12-15 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surf photographers are the unsung heroes of surfing. They do crazy things to get the shots that fill the pages of the world's top surfing magazines. Some risk life and limb shooting the action at deadly reefs like Teahupoo and Pipeline. Some lose themselves in the Arctic, braving sub-zero temperatures for the chance to score a perfect day at a remote pointbreak. Shooting the Curl showcases the work of 15 top surf photographers and gets the inside story on the surfers and waves that inspire them.
Download or read book Surfing Uncertainty written by Andy Clark and published by Oxford University Press, USA. This book was released on 2016 with total page 425 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This title brings together work on embodiment, action, and the predictive mind. At the core is the vision of human minds as prediction machines - devices that constantly try to stay one step ahead of the breaking waves of sensory stimulation, by actively predicting the incoming flow. In every situation we encounter, that complex prediction machinery is already buzzing, proactively trying to anticipate the sensory barrage. The book shows in detail how this strange but potent strategy of self-anticipation ushers perception, understanding, and imagination simultaneously onto the cognitive stage.
Book Synopsis The Longboard Travel Guide by : Sam Bleakley
Download or read book The Longboard Travel Guide written by Sam Bleakley and published by Orca Publications. This book was released on 2015-10-23 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The Longboard Travel Guide is the first surf guidebook written specifically for longboarders. Loaded with mouth-watering lineup photos, the book describes 100 of the best waves in the world for loggers and offers insider tips on how to ride them. From the Maldives to Australia's Gold Coast, from Costa Rica to Fiji, from Samoa to Sri Lanka, all the classic destinations are here. A smorgasbord of less-well known areas are also included for adventurous surfers who thirst for uncrowded waves. This book covers every aspect of surf travel for longboarders: where to go, where to stay, what gear to take, how to get in shape for your trip and how to stay healthy abroad. Longboarders of all ages and abilities will benefit from the practical advice offered by a writing team of seasoned travelers and pros. Whether you're thinking of doing a road trip in Australia, a coldwater exploration trip in Iceland, or a boat trip in Indonesia this books has plenty to soak on up. A selection of real-life traveller's tales illustrate the pleasure and pain experienced by loggers searching for the elusive perfect wave, and the joys and frustrations of life of on the road. The Longboard Travel Guide features more than 200 color photos by some of the best photographers in the business including Chris Burkard, Alan van Gysen, Simon Williams, Tim McKenna and John Callahan.This book also includes a comprehensive directory of travel resources where readers can find information about the best surf camps, travel agencies and operators around the world. Packed with sublime photos, up-to-date info and real-life traveller's tales, The Longboard Travel Guide is the essential handbook for all longboarders who yearn to find perfect waves.
Download or read book Sofa Surfer written by Malcolm Duffy and published by Zephyr. This book was released on 2021-01-07 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: When going home isn't an option. A YA novel about what it means to be homeless.
Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan
Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Book Synopsis Epic Surf Breaks of the World by : Lonely Planet
Download or read book Epic Surf Breaks of the World written by Lonely Planet and published by Lonely Planet. This book was released on 2020-08-18 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Lonely Planet explores the world's most righteous spots for riding waves in Epic Surf Breaks, the latest addition to its popular Epic series. From Java's G-Land to Hawaii's North Shore and on to Bells Beach in Victoria, Australia, surfers of all levels are sure to be thrilled. With stunning photography and gripping first hand accounts, there's no denying this ride will be epic.
Download or read book Incredible Waves written by Chris Power and published by Orca Publications. This book was released on 2013-12-10 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Incredible Waves has just won Illustrated Book of the Year at The British Sports Book Awards! Beautiful, unique, kaleidoscopic, geometrically exquisite...perfect waves are some of Mother Nature's most alluring and mesmerizing creations. Incredible Waves is a stunning coffee-table book of photographs that capture the beauty and majesty of the world's most awesome waves. This breathtaking volume is a collection of the best recent work by 20 top surf photographers including Clark Little, Brian Bielmann, Chris Burkard, Russell Ord, DJ Struntz, Tungsten, Jeff Flindt, Ray Collins and Andrew Shield. Among the most spectacular shots are images of big-wave breaks such as Pipeline, Cloudbreak, The Right, Teahupoo and Jaws – waves which are as dangerous as they are enticing, for photographers as well as surfers.The stories behind the most dramatic shots are revealed in the accompanying text, along with essays and discussions about current trends in surf photography.Readers interested in improving their own photographic skills will benefit from the technique sections throughout the book which offer tips and advice for getting better shots. Everything from basic composition to underwater photography is covered, along with tips for getting the best from board-mounted miniature cameras such as the GoPro.The photos in Incredible Waves are guaranteed to thrill surfers, longboarders, kite surfers and bodyboarders alike...in fact everyone who loves looking at images of the ocean at its most spectacular.
Download or read book Swell written by LIZ. CLARK and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2024-05-14 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis 100 Best Surf Spots in the World by : Rod Sumpter
Download or read book 100 Best Surf Spots in the World written by Rod Sumpter and published by 100 Best Surf Spots in the Wor. This book was released on 2004 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: 100 Best Surf Spots in the World will include top surfing destinations ranging from Sunset Beach and the Gold Coast in Queensland, Australia to Malibu, California and Oahu, Hawaii. Lesser-known destinations such as Metigama, Sri Lanka and Aviero, Northern Portugal take readers to every corner of the globe in search of the perfect wave. Other countries that make the list include: South Africa, France, England, Scotland, Ireland, Morocco, New Zealand, Japan, Indonesia, and Fiji. Each destination will include brilliant full-color photography of both the area and the breaks; location map, an introduction to the area, notes on the surf and why it ranked, a personal anecdote from the author while there, and a quick-reference chart including such items as skill level required, nerves needed, and surfable days.
Book Synopsis Search for the Perfect Wave by : Kevin Naughton
Download or read book Search for the Perfect Wave written by Kevin Naughton and published by . This book was released on 2015-11-11 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In 1973, young Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson took to the road with surfboards, camera gear and an untameable desire for adventure. For ten years they scoured the planet in search of perfect waves and the experiences only a traveler on the road encounters. "Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson are two surfers who defined surf travel in the early 1970's. They set off with a board each and rough maps, heading for the most remote possible places in West Africa and beyond, all for the quest of undiscovered surf spots. They felt the flow of travel, and they breathed in the air of the countries they visited, writing the odd mystical surf story for SURFER magazine, sending down the occasional alluring image of a wave breaking off a shipwreck, in front of a mile high sand dune, or at the bottom of a sheer cliff." Craig Jarvis, Tracks magazineThis series of books chronicles their journey. Featuring original photos and text from California, Mexico, El Salvador, Costa Rica, West Africa, Sahara Desert, Morocco, Ireland, France, Fiji, South Africa and beyond.
Download or read book Surf Travel written by Chris Power and published by Orca Publications. This book was released on 2012-11-01 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Surfers live to travel. The quest to find perfect waves is something that grips surfers of all abilities, from novice to expert. Now, from the publishers of leading British surfing magazines Carve and SurfGirl, comes a new book covering every aspect of travel and exploration: where to go, where to stay, what equipment to take, how to get in shape for your trip, how to stay healthy abroad, and how to make the most of your time away. Packed with information and useful tips, as well as awesome photos, Surf Travel will inspire surfers of all levels to load up their boardbags and head off to find the waves of their dreams. The main section of the book focusses on the classic surfing destinations such as Queensland’s Gold Coast, Hawaii’s North Shore, the Maldives, the Mentawai Islands, Bali, the Canary Islands, Costa Rica, Barbados, Puerto Rico, Sri Lanka, Fiji, Tahiti, Southwest France and Southern California. Each location is described and dissected, with insider tips about how to score the best conditions. Several less-well known areas are also included for experienced surfers who thirst for pristine, uncrowded waves. Surfers of all levels will benefit from the range of useful tips on offer, whether they’re going on a road trip to California, a camping trip to France, or a boat trip to Indonesia. All kinds of priceless advice is offered by a writing team of experienced travellers who’ve visited scores of countries and put in the hard yards. Surf Travel features more than 250 colour photos by some of the world’s top surf photographers including Andrew Shield, Alan van Gysen, Pete Frieden, Mickey Smith, Roger Sharp, Will Bailey, DJ Struntz, Simon Williams and Tim McKenna. The book also includes a comprehensive directory of travel resources where surfers can find information about the best surf camps, travel companies, and operators around the world.
