Simulation Of Water Waves By Boussinesq Models

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Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models

Author : Ge Wei
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 234 pages
Book Rating : 4.:/5 (318 download)

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Book Synopsis Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models by : Ge Wei

Download or read book Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models written by Ge Wei and published by . This book was released on 1997 with total page 234 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A new set of time-dependent Boussinesq equations is derived to simulate nonlinear long wave propagation in coastal regions. Following the approaches by Nwogu and later by Chen and Liu, the velocity (or velocity potential) at a certain water depth corresponding to the optimum linear dispersion property is used as a dependent variable. Therefore, the resulting equations are valid in intermediate water depth as well as for highly nonlinear waves. Coefficients for second order bound waves and the third order Schrodinger equation are derived and compared with exact solutions. A numerical model using a combination of second and fourth order schemes to discretize equation terms is developed for obtaining solutions to the equations. A fourth order predictor-corrector scheme is employed for time stepping and the first order derivative terms are finite differenced to fourth order accuracy, making the truncation errors smaller than the dispersive terms in the equations. Linear stability analysis is performed to determine the corresponding numerical stability range for the model. To avoid the problem of wave reflection from the conventional incident boundary condition, internal wave generation by source function is employed for the present model. Numerical filtering is applied at specified time steps in the model to eliminate short waves (about 2 to 5 times of the grid size) which are generated by the nonlinear interaction of long waves. To simulate the wave breaking process, additional terms for artificial eddy viscosity are included in the model equations to dissipate wave energy. The dissipation terms are activated when the horizontal gradient of the horizontal velocity exceeds the specified breaking criteria. Some of the existing models for simulating the process of wave runup are reviewed and we attempt to incorporate the present model to simulate the process by maintaining a thin layer of water over the physically dry grids.

Advances in Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Water Waves

Author : Qingwei Ma
Publisher : World Scientific
ISBN 13 : 9812836500
Total Pages : 700 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (128 download)

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Book Synopsis Advances in Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Water Waves by : Qingwei Ma

Download or read book Advances in Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Water Waves written by Qingwei Ma and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2010 with total page 700 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ch. 1. Model for fully nonlinear ocean wave simulations derived using Fourier inversion of integral equations in 3D / J. Grue and D. Fructus -- ch. 2. Two-dimensional direct numerical simulations of the dynamics of rogue waves under wind action / J. Touboul and C. Kharif -- ch. 3. Progress in fully nonlinear potential flow modeling of 3D extreme ocean waves / S.T. Grilli [und weitere] -- ch. 4. Time domain simulation of nonlinear water waves using spectral methods / F. Bonnefoy [und weitere] -- ch. 5. QALE-FEM method and its application to the simulation of free-responses of floating bodies and overturning waves / Q.W. Ma and S. Yan -- ch. 6. Velocity calculation methods in finite element based MEL formulation / V. Sriram, S.A. Sannasiraj and V. Sundar -- ch. 7. High-order Boussinesq-type modelling of nonlinear wave phenomena in deep and shallow water / P.A. Madsen and D.R. Fuhrman -- ch. 8. Inter-comparisons of different forms of higher-order Boussinesq equations / Z.L. Zou, K.Z. Fang and Z.B. Liu -- ch. 9. Method of fundamental solutions for fully nonlinear water waves / D.-L. Young, N.-J. Wu and T.-K. Tsay -- ch. 10. Application of the finite volume method to the simulation of nonlinear water waves / D. Greaves -- ch. 11. Developments in multi-fluid finite volume free surface capturing method / D.M. Causon, C.G. Mingham and L. Qian -- ch. 12. Numerical computation methods for strongly nonlinear wave-body interactions / M. Kashiwagi, C. Hu and M. Sueyoshi -- ch. 13. Smoothed particle hydrodynamics for water waves / R.A. Dalrymple [und weitere] -- ch. 14. Modelling nonlinear water waves with RANS and LES SPH models / R. Issa [und weitere] -- ch. 15. MLPG_R method and Its application to various nonlinear water waves / Q.W. Ma -- ch. 16. Large Eddy simulation of the hydrodynamics generated by breaking waves / P. Lubin and J.-P. Caltagirone -- ch. 17. Recent advances in turbulence modeling for unsteady breaking waves / Q. Zhao and S.W. Armfield -- ch. 18. Freak waves and their interaction with ships and offshore structures / G.F. Clauss

Numerical Modeling of Water Waves

Author : Pengzhi Lin
Publisher : CRC Press
ISBN 13 : 0203937759
Total Pages : 499 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (39 download)

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Book Synopsis Numerical Modeling of Water Waves by : Pengzhi Lin

Download or read book Numerical Modeling of Water Waves written by Pengzhi Lin and published by CRC Press. This book was released on 2008-04-30 with total page 499 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Modelling large-scale wave fields and their interaction with coastal and offshore structures has become much more feasible over the last two decades with increases in computer speeds. Wave modelling can be viewed as an extension of wave theory, a mature and widely published field, applied to practical engineering through the use of computer tools. Information about the various wave models which have been developed is often widely scattered in the literature, and consequently this is one of the first books devoted to wave models and their applications. At the core of the book is an introduction to various types of wave models. For each model, the theoretical assumptions, the application range, and the advantages and limitations are elaborated. The combined use of different wave models from large-scale to local-scale is highlighted with a detailed discussion of the application and matching of boundary conditions. At the same time the book provides a grounding in hydrodynamics, wave theory, and numerical methods which underlie wave modelling. It presents the theoretical background and also shows how to use these models for achieving different engineering tasks, illustrated and reinforced with case study examples.

Numerical Simulation of Water Waves

Author : Jianhua Tao
Publisher : Springer Nature
ISBN 13 : 9811528411
Total Pages : 495 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (115 download)

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Book Synopsis Numerical Simulation of Water Waves by : Jianhua Tao

Download or read book Numerical Simulation of Water Waves written by Jianhua Tao and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2020-03-30 with total page 495 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book discusses the numerical simulation of water waves, which combines mathematical theories and modern techniques of numerical simulation to solve the problems associated with waves in coastal, ocean, and environmental engineering. Bridging the gap between practical mathematics and engineering, the book describes wave mechanics, establishment of mathematical wave models, modern numerical simulation techniques, and applications of numerical models in engineering. It also explores environmental issues related to water waves in coastal regions, such as pollutant and sediment transport, and introduces numerical wave flumes and wave basins. The material is self-contained, with numerous illustrations and tables, and most of the mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text. The book is intended for researchers, graduate students and engineers in the fields of hydraulic, coastal, ocean and environmental engineering with a background in fluid mechanics and numerical simulation methods.

Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering

Author : Philip L. F. Liu
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company Incorporated
ISBN 13 : 9789810218249
Total Pages : 315 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (182 download)

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Book Synopsis Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering by : Philip L. F. Liu

Download or read book Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering written by Philip L. F. Liu and published by World Scientific Publishing Company Incorporated. This book was released on 1995 with total page 315 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Most of the Earth's surface is covered by water. Many aspects of our everyday lives and activities may be affected by water waves in some way. Sometimes, the waves can cause disaster. One of the examples was the tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on 26 December 2004. This indicates how important it is for us to fully understand water waves, in particular the very large ones. One way to do so is to perform numerical simulation based on the nonlinear theory. Considerable research advances have been made in this area over the past decade by developing various numerical methods and applying them to emerging problems: however, until now there has been no comprehensive book to reflect these advances. This unique volume aims to bridge this gap.

Partial Differential Equations and Solitary Waves Theory

Author : Abdul-Majid Wazwaz
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
ISBN 13 : 364200251X
Total Pages : 700 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (42 download)

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Book Synopsis Partial Differential Equations and Solitary Waves Theory by : Abdul-Majid Wazwaz

Download or read book Partial Differential Equations and Solitary Waves Theory written by Abdul-Majid Wazwaz and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2010-05-28 with total page 700 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: "Partial Differential Equations and Solitary Waves Theory" is a self-contained book divided into two parts: Part I is a coherent survey bringing together newly developed methods for solving PDEs. While some traditional techniques are presented, this part does not require thorough understanding of abstract theories or compact concepts. Well-selected worked examples and exercises shall guide the reader through the text. Part II provides an extensive exposition of the solitary waves theory. This part handles nonlinear evolution equations by methods such as Hirota’s bilinear method or the tanh-coth method. A self-contained treatment is presented to discuss complete integrability of a wide class of nonlinear equations. This part presents in an accessible manner a systematic presentation of solitons, multi-soliton solutions, kinks, peakons, cuspons, and compactons. While the whole book can be used as a text for advanced undergraduate and graduate students in applied mathematics, physics and engineering, Part II will be most useful for graduate students and researchers in mathematics, engineering, and other related fields. Dr. Abdul-Majid Wazwaz is a Professor of Mathematics at Saint Xavier University, Chicago, Illinois, USA.

Numerical Modeling Of Water Waves In Coastal And Ocean Engineering

Author : Pablo Higuera
Publisher : World Scientific
ISBN 13 : 981126547X
Total Pages : 208 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (112 download)

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Book Synopsis Numerical Modeling Of Water Waves In Coastal And Ocean Engineering by : Pablo Higuera

Download or read book Numerical Modeling Of Water Waves In Coastal And Ocean Engineering written by Pablo Higuera and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2023-03-16 with total page 208 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This unique compendium introduces the field of numerical modelling of water waves. The topics included the most widely used water wave modelling approaches, presented in increasing order of complexity and categorized into phase-averaged and phase-resolving at the highest level.A comprehensive state-of-the-art review is provided for each chapter, comprising the historical development of the method, the most relevant models and their practical applications. A full description on the method's underlying assumptions and limitations are also provided. The final chapter features coupling among different models, outlining the different types of implementations, highlighting their pros and cons, and providing numerous relevant examples for full context.The useful reference text benefits professionals, researchers, academics, graduate and undergraduate students in wave mechanics in general and coastal and ocean engineering in particular.

Wave and Tidal Energy

Author : Deborah Greaves
Publisher : John Wiley & Sons
ISBN 13 : 1119014476
Total Pages : 761 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (19 download)

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Book Synopsis Wave and Tidal Energy by : Deborah Greaves

Download or read book Wave and Tidal Energy written by Deborah Greaves and published by John Wiley & Sons. This book was released on 2018-03-28 with total page 761 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Eine umfassende Publikation zu sämtlichen Aspekten der Wellen- und Gezeitenenergie. Wave and Tidal Energy gibt einen ausführlichen Überblick über die Entwicklung erneuerbarer Energie aus dem Meer, bezieht sich auf die neueste Forschung und Erfahrungen aus Anlagentests. Das Buch verfolgt zwei Ziele, zum einen vermittelt es Einsteigern in das Fachgebiet eine Überblick über die Wellen- und Gezeitenenergie, zum anderen ist es ein Referenzwerk für komplexere Studien und die Praxis. Es vermittelt Detailwissen zu wichtigen Themen wie Ressourcencharakterisierung, Technologie für Wellen- und Gezeitenanlagen, Stromversorgungssysteme, numerische und physikalische Modellierung, Umwelteffekte und Politik. Zusätzlich enthält es eine aktuelle Übersicht über Entwicklungen in der ganzen Welt sowie Fallstudien zu ausgewählten Projekten. Hauptmerkmale: - Ausführliches Referenzwerk zu allen Aspekten der interdisziplinären Fachrichten Wellen- und Gezeitenenergie. - Greift auf die neuesten Forschungsergebnisse und die Erfahrung führender Experten in der numerischen und laborgestützten Modellierung zurück. - Gibt einen Überblick über regionale Entwicklungen in aller Welt, repräsentative Projekte werden in Fallstudien vorgestellt. Wave and Tidal Energy ist ein wertvolles Referenzwerk für eine breite Leserschaft, von Studenten der Ingenieurwissenschaften und technischen Managern über politische Entscheidungsträger bis hin zu Studienabsolventen und Forschern.

Wave Dynamics

Author : Snehashish Chakraverty
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company
ISBN 13 : 9789811245350
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (453 download)

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Book Synopsis Wave Dynamics by : Snehashish Chakraverty

Download or read book Wave Dynamics written by Snehashish Chakraverty and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 2022 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: There are various types of waves including water, sound, electromagnetic, seismic and shock etc. These waves need to be analyzed and understood for different practical applications. This book is an attempt to consider the waves in detail to understand the physical and mathematical phenomena. A major challenge is to model waves by experimental studies. The aim of this book will be to address the efficient and recently developed theories along with the basic equations of wave dynamics. The latest development of analytical/semi analytical and numerical methods with respect to wave dynamics will also be covered. Further few challenging experimental studies will then be considered for related problems. This book presents advances in wave dynamics in simple and easy to follow chapters for the benefit of the readers/researchers.

Prediction and Simulation Methods for Geohazard Mitigation

Author : Fusao Oka
Publisher : CRC Press
ISBN 13 : 0203871049
Total Pages : 626 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (38 download)

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Book Synopsis Prediction and Simulation Methods for Geohazard Mitigation by : Fusao Oka

Download or read book Prediction and Simulation Methods for Geohazard Mitigation written by Fusao Oka and published by CRC Press. This book was released on 2009-05-07 with total page 626 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The last decades have shown a remarkable increase in the number of heavy rains, typhoons and earthquakes. These natural phenomena are the main causes for geohazards. As a result the mitigation of geohazards has become a major research topic in geotechnical engineering, and in recent years simulation-based predictions and monitoring tools have been

Advances in Coastal Modeling

Author : V.C. Lakhan
Publisher : Elsevier
ISBN 13 : 0080526640
Total Pages : 614 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (85 download)

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Book Synopsis Advances in Coastal Modeling by : V.C. Lakhan

Download or read book Advances in Coastal Modeling written by V.C. Lakhan and published by Elsevier. This book was released on 2003-10-24 with total page 614 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book unifies and enhances the accessibility of contemporary scholarly research on advances in coastal modeling. A comprehensive spectrum of innovative models addresses the wide diversity and multifaceted aspects of coastal research on the complex natural processes, dynamics, interactions and responses of the coastal supersystem and its associated subsystems. The twenty-one chapters, contributed by internationally recognized coastal experts from fourteen countries, provide invaluable insights on the recent advances and present state-of-the-art knowledge on coastal models which are essential for not only illuminating the governing coastal process and various characteristics, but also for understanding and predicting the dynamics at work in the coastal system. One of the unique strengths of the book is the impressive and encompassing presentation of current functional and operational coastal models for all those concerned with and interested in the modeling of seas, oceans and coasts. In addition to chapters modeling the dynamic natural processes of waves, currents, circulatory flows and sediment transport there are also chapters that focus on the modeling of beaches, shorelines, tidal basins and shore platforms. The substantial scope of the book is further strengthened with chapters concentrating on the effects of coastal structures on nearshore flows, coastal water quality, coastal pollution, coastal ecological modeling, statistical data modeling, and coupling of coastal models with geographical information systems.

The Mathematics of Marine Modelling

Author : Henk Schuttelaars
Publisher : Springer Nature
ISBN 13 : 3031095596
Total Pages : 324 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (31 download)

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Book Synopsis The Mathematics of Marine Modelling by : Henk Schuttelaars

Download or read book The Mathematics of Marine Modelling written by Henk Schuttelaars and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2022-11-30 with total page 324 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Over the past few decades, numerical simulation has become instrumental in understanding the dynamics of seas, coastal regions and estuaries. The decision makers rely more and more frequently on model results for the management of these regions. Some modellers are insufficiently aware of the theoretical underpinning of the simulation tools they are using. On the other hand, a number of applied mathematicians tend to view marine sciences as a domain in which they would like to use the tools they have a good command of. Bridging the gap between model users and applied mathematicians is the main objective of the present book. In this respect a vast number of issues in which mathematics plays a crucial role will be addressed.

Advances in Hydroinformatics—SimHydro 2023 Volume 2

Author : Philippe Gourbesville
Publisher : Springer Nature
ISBN 13 : 9819740762
Total Pages : 512 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (197 download)

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Book Synopsis Advances in Hydroinformatics—SimHydro 2023 Volume 2 by : Philippe Gourbesville

Download or read book Advances in Hydroinformatics—SimHydro 2023 Volume 2 written by Philippe Gourbesville and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on with total page 512 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Dispersive Shallow Water Waves

Author : Gayaz Khakimzyanov
Publisher : Springer Nature
ISBN 13 : 3030462676
Total Pages : 296 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (34 download)

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Book Synopsis Dispersive Shallow Water Waves by : Gayaz Khakimzyanov

Download or read book Dispersive Shallow Water Waves written by Gayaz Khakimzyanov and published by Springer Nature. This book was released on 2020-09-15 with total page 296 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This monograph presents cutting-edge research on dispersive wave modelling, and the numerical methods used to simulate the propagation and generation of long surface water waves. Including both an overview of existing dispersive models, as well as recent breakthroughs, the authors maintain an ideal balance between theory and applications. From modelling tsunami waves to smaller scale coastal processes, this book will be an indispensable resource for those looking to be brought up-to-date in this active area of scientific research. Beginning with an introduction to various dispersive long wave models on the flat space, the authors establish a foundation on which readers can confidently approach more advanced mathematical models and numerical techniques. The first two chapters of the book cover modelling and numerical simulation over globally flat spaces, including adaptive moving grid methods along with the operator splitting approach, which was historically proposed at the Institute of Computational Technologies at Novosibirsk. Later chapters build on this to explore high-end mathematical modelling of the fluid flow over deformed and rotating spheres using the operator splitting approach. The appendices that follow further elaborate by providing valuable insight into long wave models based on the potential flow assumption, and modified intermediate weakly nonlinear weakly dispersive equations. Dispersive Shallow Water Waves will be a valuable resource for researchers studying theoretical or applied oceanography, nonlinear waves as well as those more broadly interested in free surface flow dynamics.

Numerical Modeling of Water Waves

Author : Charles L. Mader
Publisher : CRC Press
ISBN 13 : 9780849323119
Total Pages : 288 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (231 download)

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Book Synopsis Numerical Modeling of Water Waves by : Charles L. Mader

Download or read book Numerical Modeling of Water Waves written by Charles L. Mader and published by CRC Press. This book was released on 2004-06-25 with total page 288 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Numerical Modeling of Water Waves, Second Edition covers all aspects of this subject, from the basic fluid dynamics and the simplest models to the latest and most complex, including the first-ever description of techniques for modeling wave generation by explosions, projectile impacts, asteroids, and impact landslides. The book comes packaged with a CD-ROM that contains the computer codes and movies generated by the author and his colleagues at the Los Alamos National Laboratory. Mader's three-pronged approach--through text, computer programs, and animations--imparts a thorough understanding of new computational methods and provides the tools to put those methods to effective use.

Continuum Mechanics - Volume II

Author : José Merodio
Publisher : EOLSS Publications
ISBN 13 : 1848263732
Total Pages : 446 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (482 download)

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Book Synopsis Continuum Mechanics - Volume II by : José Merodio

Download or read book Continuum Mechanics - Volume II written by José Merodio and published by EOLSS Publications. This book was released on 2011-11-30 with total page 446 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The main objective of continuum mechanics is to predict the response of a body that is under the action of external and/or internal influences, i.e. to capture and describe different mechanisms associated with the motion of a body that is under the action of loading. A body in continuum mechanics is considered to be matter continuously distributed in space. Hence, no attention is given to the microscopic (atomic) structure of real materials although non-classical generalized theories of continuum mechanics are able to deal with the mesoscopic structure of matter (i.e. defects, cracks, dispersive lengths, ...). Matter occupies space in time and the response of a body in continuum mechanics is restricted to the Newtonian space-time of classical mechanics in this volume. Einstein’s theory of relativity is not considered. In the classical sense, loading is considered as any action that changes the motion of the body. This includes, for instance, a change in temperature or a force applied. By introducing the concept of configurational forces a load may also be considered as a force that drives a change in the material space, for example the opening of a crack. Continuum mechanics refers to field descriptions of phenomena that are usually modeled by partial differential equations and, from a mathematical point of view, require non-standard knowledge of non-simple technicalities. One purpose in this volume has been to present the different subjects in a self-contained way for a general audience. The organization of the volume is as follows. Mathematically, to predict the response of a body it is necessary to formulate boundary value problems governed by balance laws. The theme of the volume, that is an overview of the subject, has been written with this idea in mind for beginners in the topic. Chapter 1 is an introduction to continuum mechanics based on a one-dimensional framework in which, simultaneously, a more detailed organization of the chapters of this volume is given. A one-dimensional approach to continuum mechanics in some aspects maybe misleading since the analysis is oversimplified. Nevertheless, it allows us to introduce the subject through the early basic steps of the continuum analysis for a general audience. Chapters 3, 4 and 5 are devoted to the mathematical setting of continuum analysis: kinematics, balance laws and thermodynamics, respectively. Chapters 6 and 7 are devoted to constitutive equations. Chapters 8 and 9 deal with different issues in the context of linear elastostatics and linear elastodynamics and waves, respectively, for solids. Linear Elasticity is a classical and central theory of continuum mechanics. Chapter 10 deals with fluids while chapter 11 analyzes the coupled theory of thermoelasticity. Chapter 12 deals with nonlinear elasticity and its role in the continuum framework. Chapters 13 and 14 are dedicated to different applications of solid and fluid mechanics, respectively. The rest of the chapters involve some advanced topics. Chapter 15 is dedicated to turbulence, one of the main challenges in fluid mechanics. Chapter 16 deals with electro-magneto active materials (a coupled theory). Chapter 17 deals with specific ideas of soft matter and chapter 18 deals with configurational forces. In chapter 19, constitutive equations are introduced in a general (implicit) form. Well-posedness (existence, time of existence, uniqueness, continuity) of the equations of the mechanics of continua is an important topic which involves sophisticated mathematical machinery. Chapter 20 presents different analyses related to these topics. Continuum Mechanics is an interdisciplinary subject that attracts the attention of engineers, mathematicians, physicists, etc., working in many different disciplines from a purely scientific environment to industrial applications including biology, materials science, engineering, and many other subjects.

Coastal Engineering 2006

Author : Jane McKee Smith
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 1128 pages
Book Rating : 4.:/5 (318 download)

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Book Synopsis Coastal Engineering 2006 by : Jane McKee Smith

Download or read book Coastal Engineering 2006 written by Jane McKee Smith and published by . This book was released on 2007 with total page 1128 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This Proceedings contains 445 papers presented at the 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which was held in San Diego, California, USA, 3-8 September 2006. The Proceedings is divided into five parts: Waves; Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves; Coastal Management, Risk, and Ecosystem Restoration; Sediment Transport and Morphology; and Coastal Structures. The individual papers cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. These papers provide engineers, scientists, and planners state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.