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Crinolines And Crimping Irons
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Book Synopsis Crinolines and Crimping Irons by : Christina Walkley
Download or read book Crinolines and Crimping Irons written by Christina Walkley and published by Peter Owen Publishers. This book was released on 1978 with total page 216 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Crinolines and Crimping Irons is a fascinating account of a a vital and hitherto little investigated aspect of Victorian life. Its importance is twofold: as an unusual contribution to social history and a unique work of reference for specialist and layman.
Book Synopsis Corsets and Crinolines by : Norah Waugh
Download or read book Corsets and Crinolines written by Norah Waugh and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2017-08-03 with total page 464 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In this classic book, Norah Waugh explores the changing shapes of women’s dress from the 1500s to the 1920s. Simple laced bodices became corsets of cane, whalebone and steel, while padding at shoulders and hips gave way to the structures of farthingales, hoops and bustles. Corsets and Crinolines explains the cyclical nature of these fashions, and how waists and skirts changed shape and size through three distinct eras: The 1500s to 1670—farthingales and whaleboned bodies. 1670 to 1800—Stays and hooped petticoats. 1800 to 1925—corsets, crinolines and bustles. Each section describes how these garments originated, how they became popular and how they emerged as central to the fashions of the time. Extracts from diaries, journals, poems and newspapers, as well as over 100 illustrations, demonstrate the variety of these ubiquitous items of clothing throughout modern history. Corsets and Crinolines also contains a wealth of practical notes and resources for today’s costume makers and designers, including: Scaleable patterns for the construction of 25 different bustles, crinolines, corsets, corselets, stays, pocket hoops, hooped petticoats and bodices. Detailed appendices on the manufacture of corsets and crinolines, including farthingales, supports and hooped petticoats. A list of further reading, including costume histories; textile and weaving histories; reconstruction of period clothing; contemporary application of foundational garments; and a list of museums and institutions with period clothing collections, for first-hand study. A glossary of terms and materials.
Book Synopsis Dress and Identity in British Literary Culture, 1870-1914 by : Rosy Aindow
Download or read book Dress and Identity in British Literary Culture, 1870-1914 written by Rosy Aindow and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2016-12-05 with total page 182 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Rosy Aindow examines the way fiction registered and responded to the emergence of a modern fashion industry during the period 1870-1914. She traces the role played by dress in the formation of literary identities, with specific attention to the way that an engagement with fashionable clothing was understood to be a means of class emulation. The expansion of the fashion industry in the second half of the nineteenth century is generally considered to have had a significant impact on the way in which lower income groups, in particular, encountered clothing: many were able to participate in fashionable consumption for the first time. Remaining alert to the historical specificity of these events, this study argues that the cultural perception of the expansion of the industry - namely a predominantly bourgeois fear that it would result in a democratisation in dress - had a profound effect on the way in which fashion was approached by contemporary writers. Drawing on existing cultural analogies that associated fashion with women and artifice, it concludes that women were particularly implicated in fictional accounts of class mobility. This transgression applied not only to women who wore fashionable clothing, but to those working in the fashion industry itself. An allusion to fashion has a socio-specific meaning, one which gained a new potency in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century narratives as a vehicle for the expression of class anxieties.
Download or read book Titanic Style written by Grace Evans and published by Simon and Schuster. This book was released on 2012-11-01 with total page 165 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Titanic Style explores the world of fashion and dress at the time of RMS Titanic’s famous voyage. We are taken through the wardrobes of passengers and crew of all classes and ages, from the most intimate undergarments to the warm overcoats needed on that last fearful cold night. The ship was a microcosm of post-Edwardian society, in which everyone belonged to a particular class and dressed accordingly. The luxurious attire of the ladies in first class, the cream of European and American society, was changed several times a day, while the more sober and conservative clothes of the men of all ranks subtly conveyed their status, and children were dressed to enhance their social standing. We also visit the families below deck, dressed in second-hand or homemade clothes, heading for a new life in a country free of repressive class distinction. Stories and records of individual passengers and crew members are woven into the narrative to give an engaging account of what life was really like on board the world’s most famous ocean liner.
Book Synopsis History of Everyday Life in Scotland, 1800 to 1900 by : Graeme Morton
Download or read book History of Everyday Life in Scotland, 1800 to 1900 written by Graeme Morton and published by Edinburgh University Press. This book was released on 2010-08-31 with total page 336 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This volume explores the experience of everyday life in Scotland over two centuries characterised by political, religious and intellectual change and ferment. It shows how the extraordinary impinged on the ordinary and reveals people's anxieties, joys, comforts, passions, hopes and fears. It also aims to provide a measure of how the impact of change varied from place to place.The authors draw on a wide range of primary and secondary sources, including the material survivals of daily life in town and country, and on the history of government, religion, ideas, painting, literature, and architecture. As B. S. Gregory has put it, everyday history is 'an endeavour that seeks to identify and integrate everything - all relevant material, social, political, and cultural data - that permits the fullest possible reconstruction of ordinary life experiences in all their varied complexity, as they are formed and transformed.'
Download or read book Sweet and Clean? written by Susan North and published by Oxford University Press. This book was released on 2020-03-26 with total page 356 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Sweet and Clean? challenges the widely held beliefs on bathing and cleanliness in the past. For over thirty years, the work of the French historian, George Vigarello, has been hugely influential on early modern European social history, describing an aversion to water and bathing, and the use of linen underwear as the sole cleaning agent for the body. However, these concepts do not apply to early modern England. Sweet and Clean? analyses etiquette and medical literature, revealing repeated recommendations to wash or bathe in order to clean the skin. Clean linen was essential for propriety but advice from medical experts was contradictory. Many doctors were convinced that it prevented the spread of contagious diseases, but others recommended flannel for undergarments, and a few thought changing a fever patient's linens was dangerous. The methodology of material culture helps determine if and how this advice was practiced. Evidence from inventories, household accounts and manuals, and surviving linen garments tracks underwear through its life-cycle of production, making, wearing, laundering, and final recycling. Although the material culture of washing bodies is much sparser, other sources, such as the Old Bailey records, paint a more accurate picture of cleanliness in early modern England than has been previously described. The contrasting analyses of linen and bodies reveal what histories material culture best serves. Finally, what of the diseases-plague, smallpox, and typhus-that cleanliness of body and clothes were thought to prevent? Did following early modern medical advice protect people from these illnesses?
Book Synopsis The Husband Hunters by : Anne de Courcy
Download or read book The Husband Hunters written by Anne de Courcy and published by St. Martin's Press. This book was released on 2018-08-07 with total page 337 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A deliciously told group biography of the young, rich, American heiresses who married into the impoverished British aristocracy at the turn of the twentieth century – the real women who inspired Downton Abbey Towards the end of the nineteenth century and for the first few years of the twentieth, a strange invasion took place in Britain. The citadel of power, privilege and breeding in which the titled, land-owning governing class had barricaded itself for so long was breached. The incomers were a group of young women who, fifty years earlier, would have been looked on as the alien denizens of another world - the New World, to be precise. From 1874 - the year that Jennie Jerome, the first known 'Dollar Princess', married Randolph Churchill - to 1905, dozens of young American heiresses married into the British peerage, bringing with them all the fabulous wealth, glamour and sophistication of the Gilded Age. Anne de Courcy sets the stories of these young women and their families in the context of their times. Based on extensive first-hand research, drawing on diaries, memoirs and letters, this richly entertaining group biography reveals what they thought of their new lives in England - and what England thought of them.
Download or read book The Lady Footballers written by James Lee and published by Routledge. This book was released on 2013-09-13 with total page 153 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book tells the story of ‘the Lady Footballers’. It covers their 1895 and 1896 tours through the eyes of the largely unsympathetic British press. It explains gender issues of the time, and the financial problems that doomed this experiment. Despite increasing opportunities in sport for British women during the late nineteenth century, virtually every segment of society opposed the idea of women playing football. In 1895, Nettie Honeyball and Florence Dixie formed the British Ladies’ Football Club (BLFC) intending to introduce the game to women and girls as a means of recreation and profit, over 10,000 spectators crowded the football ground in London to watch the BLFC in its first match. Nearly every London newspaper covered the event. These women endured public ridicule. They ignited the gender prejudice of the time, and confronted it head on wearing ‘men’s’ kit, and playing ‘men’s rules.’ Football's mystique was that it was a manly sport for men, thus these women footballers symbolized a paradox: those playing well were gender freaks; those not playing well proved it was a male game. This book was published as a special issue of the International Journal of the History of Sport.
Book Synopsis Fashion & Family History by : Jayne Shrimpton
Download or read book Fashion & Family History written by Jayne Shrimpton and published by Pen and Sword Family History. This book was released on 2020-12-14 with total page 321 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This illustrated volume explores what fashion history can reveal about the lives of your British ancestors. As Britain evolved from an agrarian society into an urban-industrial nation, dress was transformed. Traditional rural styles gave way to modern city modes, workwear, and holiday attire. Women sewed at home, while advanced textiles and mass-produced goods brought affordable fashion to ordinary people. Many of our predecessors worked as professional garment-makers, laundresses or in other related trades—and they used those skills when caring for their own clothes. The Victorians observed strict etiquette through special costumes for Sundays, marriage, and mourning. Poorer families struggled to maintain standards while young single workers spent their wages on clothes and the older generation cultivated their own discreet style. Twentieth-century dress grew more relaxed and democratic as popular culture influenced fashion for recent generations who enjoyed sports, cinema, music, and dancing.
Download or read book Dressing Up written by Elizabeth L. Block and published by MIT Press. This book was released on 2021-10-19 with total page 291 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: How wealthy American women--as consumers and as influencers--helped shape French couture of the late nineteenth century; lavishly illustrated. French fashion of the late nineteenth century is known for its allure, its ineffable chic--think of John Singer Sargent's Madame X and her scandalously slipping strap. For Parisian couturiers and their American customers, it was also serious business. In Dressing Up, Elizabeth Block examines the couturiers' influential clientele--wealthy American women who bolstered the French fashion industry with a steady stream of orders from the United States. Countering the usual narrative of the designer as solo creative genius, Block shows that these women--as high-volume customers and as pre-Internet influencers--were active participants in the era's transnational fashion system. Block describes the arrival of nouveau riche Americans on the French fashion scene, joining European royalty, French socialites, and famous actresses on the client rosters of the best fashion houses--Charles Frederick Worth, Doucet, and Félix, among others. She considers the mutual dependence of couture and coiffure; the participation of couturiers in international expositions (with mixed financial results); the distinctive shopping practices of American women, which ranged from extensive transatlantic travel to quick trips downtown to the department store; the performance of conspicuous consumption at balls and soirées; the impact of American tariffs on the French fashion industry; and the emergence of smuggling, theft, and illicit copying of French fashions in the American market as the middle class emulated the preferences of the rich. Lavishly illustrated, with vibrant images of dresses, portraits, and fashion plates, Dressing Up reveals the power of American women in French couture. Winner of the Aileen Ribeiro Grant of the Association of Dress Historians; an Association for Art History grant; and a Pasold Research Fund grant.
Book Synopsis Inside the Victorian Home by : Judith Flanders
Download or read book Inside the Victorian Home written by Judith Flanders and published by W. W. Norton & Company. This book was released on 2004 with total page 560 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A rich selection from diaries, letters, advice books, magazines, and paintings creates a rooms-by-room portrait of Victorian life--from childbirth in the master bedroom to separate gender domains in the drawing room and parlor.
Book Synopsis Borrowed Gods and Foreign Bodies by : Eric Reinders
Download or read book Borrowed Gods and Foreign Bodies written by Eric Reinders and published by Univ of California Press. This book was released on 2004-11-15 with total page 296 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: To the Victorians, the Chinese were invariably "inscrutable." The meaning and provenance of this impression—and, most importantly, its workings in nineteenth-century Protestant missionary encounters with Chinese religion—are at the center of Eric Reinders's Borrowed Gods and Foreign Bodies, an enlightening look at how missionaries' religious identity, experience, and physical foreignness produced certain representations of China between 1807 and 1937. Reinders first introduces the imaginative world of Victorian missionaries and outlines their application of mind-body dualism to the dualism of self and other. He then explores Western views of the Chinese language, especially ritual language, and Chinese ritual, particularly the kow-tow. His work offers surprising and valuable insight into the visceral nature of the Victorian response to the Chinese—and, more generally, into the nineteenth-century Western representation of China.
Book Synopsis How to Read a Dress by : Lydia Edwards
Download or read book How to Read a Dress written by Lydia Edwards and published by Bloomsbury Publishing. This book was released on 2017-03-09 with total page 488 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Fashion is ever-changing, and while some styles mark a dramatic departure from the past, many exhibit subtle differences from year to year that are not always easily identifiable. With overviews of each key period and detailed illustrations for each new style, How to Read a Dress is an authoritative visual guide to women's fashion across five centuries. Each entry includes annotated color images of historical garments, outlining important features and highlighting how styles have developed over time, whether in shape, fabric choice, trimming, or undergarments. Readers will learn how garments were constructed and where their inspiration stemmed from at key points in history – as well as how dresses have varied in type, cut, detailing and popularity according to the occasion and the class, age and social status of the wearer. This lavishly illustrated book is the ideal tool for anyone who has ever wanted to know their cartridge pleats from their Récamier ruffles. Equipping the reader with all the information they need to 'read' a dress, this is the ultimate guide for students, researchers, and anyone interested in historical fashion.
Book Synopsis The Lie Tree Special Edition by : Frances Hardinge
Download or read book The Lie Tree Special Edition written by Frances Hardinge and published by Pan Macmillan. This book was released on 2016-02-12 with total page 416 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Winner of the Costa Book of the Year 2015, The Lie Tree is a dark and powerful novel from universally acclaimed author, Frances Hardinge. It was not enough. All knowledge - any knowledge - called to Faith, and there was a delicious, poisonous pleasure in stealing it unseen. Faith has a thirst for science and secrets that the rigid confines of her class cannot suppress. And so it is that she discovers her disgraced father's journals, filled with the scribbled notes and theories of a man driven close to madness. Tales of a strange tree which, when told a lie, will uncover a truth: the greater the lie, the greater the truth revealed to the liar. Faith's search for the tree leads her into great danger – for where lies seduce, truths shatter . . . 'Brilliant, dark, thrilling, utterly original' Patrick Ness, author of A Monster Calls. 'The Lie Tree is a wonder. I can't think of anyone who would not love this story' Matt Haig, author of The Humans.
Book Synopsis The Cut of His Coat by : Brent Shannon
Download or read book The Cut of His Coat written by Brent Shannon and published by Ohio University Press. This book was released on 2006-08-22 with total page 265 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The English middle class in the late nineteenth century enjoyed an increase in the availability and variety of material goods. With that, the visual markers of class membership and manly behavior underwent a radical change. In The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860–1914, Brent Shannon examines familiar novels by authors such as George Eliot, Anthony Trollope, Thomas Hughes, and H. G. Wells, as well as previously unexamined etiquette manuals, period advertisements, and fashion monthlies, to trace how new ideologies emerged as mass-produced clothes, sartorial markers, and consumer culture began to change. While Victorian literature traditionally portrayed women as having sole control of class representations through dress and manners, Shannon argues that middle-class men participated vigorously in fashion. Public displays of their newly acquired mannerisms, hairstyles, clothing, and consumer goods redefined masculinity and class status for the Victorian era and beyond. The Cut of His Coat probes the Victorian disavowal of men’s interest in fashion and shopping to recover men’s significant role in the representation of class through self-presentation and consumer practices.
Download or read book The Lie Tree written by Frances Hardinge and published by Pan Macmillan. This book was released on 2015-05-07 with total page 400 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Winner of the Costa Book of the Year 2015. The Lie Tree is a wonderfully evocative and atmospheric novel by Frances Hardinge, award-winning author of Cuckoo Song and Fly By Night. Faith's father has been found dead under mysterious circumstances, and as she is searching through his belongings for clues she discovers a strange tree. The tree only grows healthy and bears fruit if you whisper a lie to it. The fruit of the tree, when eaten, will deliver a hidden truth to the person who consumes it. The bigger the lie, the more people who believe it, the bigger the truth that is uncovered. The girl realizes that she is good at lying and that the tree might hold the key to her father's murder, so she begins to spread untruths far and wide across her small island community. But as her tales spiral out of control, she discovers that where lies seduce, truths shatter . . .
Download or read book The Pocket written by Barbara Burman and published by Yale University Press. This book was released on 2020-04-24 with total page 266 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: A New York Times Best Art Book of 2019 “A riveting book . . . few stones are left unturned.”—Roberta Smith’s “Top Art Books of 2019,” The New York Times This fascinating and enlightening study of the tie-on pocket combines materiality and gender to provide new insight into the social history of women’s everyday lives—from duchesses and country gentry to prostitutes and washerwomen—and to explore their consumption practices, sociability, mobility, privacy, and identity. A wealth of evidence reveals unexpected facets of the past, bringing women’s stories into intimate focus. “What particularly interests Burman and Fennetaux is the way in which women of all classes have historically used these tie-on pockets as a supplementary body part to help them negotiate their way through a world that was not built to suit them.”—Kathryn Hughes, The Guardian “A brilliant book.”—Ulinka Rublack, Times Literary Supplement
