After Surfing Ocean Beach

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Author :
Publisher : Dundurn
ISBN 13 : 9781550025095
Total Pages : 228 pages
Book Rating : 4.0/5 (25 download)

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Book Synopsis After Surfing Ocean Beach by : Mary Soderstrom

Download or read book After Surfing Ocean Beach written by Mary Soderstrom and published by Dundurn. This book was released on 2004-04-27 with total page 228 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Rick doesn't have time to think. He plunges his knife into the stranger's gut, believing he is defending himself from an attacker. But Rick is wrong about the man's intentions, and as he flees the scene, the innocent man bleeds to death, leaving Rick horrified by what he has done. It is a moment of panic that changes Rick's life forever. It is also a moment that brings Rick face to face with his past, as we soon discover that the slain man was not a stranger after all.

After Surfing Ocean Beach

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Author :
Publisher : Dundurn
ISBN 13 : 1770701729
Total Pages : 223 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (77 download)

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Book Synopsis After Surfing Ocean Beach by : Mary Soderstrom

Download or read book After Surfing Ocean Beach written by Mary Soderstrom and published by Dundurn. This book was released on 2004-04-27 with total page 223 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In a brief, panicked moment, Rick mistakes the kindness of an apparent stranger for a threatening act, and inadvertently commits murder. He flees the scene, and tries to keep secret from his family the unfortunate event that has occurred. Little does he know that not only has he killed an innocent man, but the man is the son of Annie, with whom Rick had an intense relationship in his youth. As Rick and Annie struggle to come to terms with the tragedy, each recalls the life they once led, and pines for a life that never was. This haunting and engaging tale is Mary Soderstrom at her masterful best.

After Surfing Ocean Beach

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Author :
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781525252068
Total Pages : 224 pages
Book Rating : 4.2/5 (52 download)

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Book Synopsis After Surfing Ocean Beach by : Mary Soderstrom

Download or read book After Surfing Ocean Beach written by Mary Soderstrom and published by . This book was released on 2017-06-21 with total page 224 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In a panicked moment, Rick inadvertently kills a stranger. The tragedy turns out to be far more personal than Rick imagined.

The Ultimate Guide to Surfing

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Author :
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781585743049
Total Pages : 100 pages
Book Rating : 4.7/5 (43 download)

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Book Synopsis The Ultimate Guide to Surfing by : Jay Moriarity

Download or read book The Ultimate Guide to Surfing written by Jay Moriarity and published by . This book was released on 2001 with total page 100 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Combining color photography with authoritative text, "The Ultimate Guide To Surfing" offers tips and techniques, terms and key skills to get the most out of the sport. The authors employ the latest technique to create a holistic approach centered around a sound mental attitude and correct body equilibrium. Photos.

Barbarian Days

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Author :
Publisher : Penguin
ISBN 13 : 0143109391
Total Pages : 466 pages
Book Rating : 4.1/5 (431 download)

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Book Synopsis Barbarian Days by : William Finnegan

Download or read book Barbarian Days written by William Finnegan and published by Penguin. This book was released on 2016-04-26 with total page 466 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Caught Inside

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Author :
Publisher : Macmillan
ISBN 13 : 9780865475090
Total Pages : 260 pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (75 download)

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Book Synopsis Caught Inside by : Daniel Duane

Download or read book Caught Inside written by Daniel Duane and published by Macmillan. This book was released on 1997-04-10 with total page 260 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Duane's account of a year spent surfing in Santa Cruz, California. Interspersed with the narrative of days passed on the water are good-humored explanations of the physics of wave dynamics, the art of surfboard design, dexcriptions of the flora and fauna

City Surf

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Author :
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9781733406505
Total Pages : pages
Book Rating : 4.4/5 (65 download)

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Book Synopsis City Surf by : Leo Maxam

Download or read book City Surf written by Leo Maxam and published by . This book was released on 2019-11-16 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: City Surf tells the story of City Surf Project, a group of San Francisco surfers connecting underrepresented youth to the ocean and themselves through surfing. Featuring powerful stories from CSP's students and a plurality of characters from the city's fringe saltwater society - surfers who come from all walks of life - this beautiful hardcover coffee table book documents San Francisco's unique urban surf culture and its impact on the city's youth. Shot entirely on film by Nathan Lawrence and filled with more than 200 original photos, City Surf is a celebration of what it means to be a city surfer and how surfing and the ocean are changing young lives in San Francisco.

Rockaway

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Publisher : Houghton Mifflin
ISBN 13 : 0358067782
Total Pages : 275 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (58 download)

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Book Synopsis Rockaway by : Diane Cardwell

Download or read book Rockaway written by Diane Cardwell and published by Houghton Mifflin. This book was released on 2020 with total page 275 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.

San Onofre

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Author :
Publisher :
ISBN 13 : 9780963358288
Total Pages : pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (582 download)

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Book Synopsis San Onofre by : David F. MKatuszak

Download or read book San Onofre written by David F. MKatuszak and published by . This book was released on 2018-09-02 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: San Onofre: Memories of a Legendary Surfing Beach is a landmark achievement in the study of surfing history and culture from its origins in Polynesia, Peru, and Africa, to the role that San Onofre played in molding California surf culture.San Onofre is the story of the California surfing culture as seen through the eyes of the surfers at San Onofre Surf Beach. Pioneer surfers tell their own story of the Golden Age of Surfing and illustrate their tales with never-before-seen vintage photographs from their own family albums. Their stories offer a priceless collection of primary source data for future studies of the sport.

Surfing the Border

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Author :
Publisher : Wildcoast
ISBN 13 : 9781941384107
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (841 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing the Border by : Serge Dedina

Download or read book Surfing the Border written by Serge Dedina and published by Wildcoast. This book was released on 2015 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In Surfing the Border, Serge Dedina takes us on a journey into the world of surf culture and travels around the globe to highlight how surfing connects us to the increasingly scarce natural and cultural niches that remain. Whether he is exploring the wilds of Mexico and Australia or getting a surfing makeover from his teenage sons, Serge Dedina shows us with humor and passion, how riding waves is a gateway to the world beyond the beach.

Waves and Beaches

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Author :
Publisher : Anchor
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 528 pages
Book Rating : 4.:/5 (318 download)

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Book Synopsis Waves and Beaches by : Willard Bascom

Download or read book Waves and Beaches written by Willard Bascom and published by Anchor. This book was released on 1980 with total page 528 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea

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Author :
Publisher :
ISBN 13 :
Total Pages : 426 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (91 download)

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Book Synopsis A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea by : Willard Bascom

Download or read book A Hole in the Bottom of the Sea written by Willard Bascom and published by . This book was released on 1961 with total page 426 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:

Surf Shacks

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Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
ISBN 13 : 9783899559071
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (59 download)

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Book Synopsis Surf Shacks by : Matt Titone

Download or read book Surf Shacks written by Matt Titone and published by Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV. This book was released on 2017 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Many abodes can fall under the label of surf shack: New York City apartments, cabins nestled next to national parks, or tiny Hawaiian huts. Surfing communities are overflowing with creativity, innovation, and rich personas. Surf Shacks takes a deeper look at surfers' homes and artistic habits. Glimpses of record collections, strolls through backyard gardens, or a peek into a painter's studio provide insight into surfers' lives both on and off shore. From the remote Hawaiian nook of filmmaker Jess Bianchi to the woodsy Japanese paradise that the former CEO of Surfrider Foundation in Japan, Hiromi Masubara, calls home to the converted bus that Ryan Lovelace claims as his domicile and his transport, every space has a unique tale. The moments that these vibrant personalities spend away from the swell and the froth are both captivating and nuanced.

Sports in America

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Publisher : Dial Press
ISBN 13 : 0804151393
Total Pages : 562 pages
Book Rating : 4.8/5 (41 download)

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Book Synopsis Sports in America by : James A. Michener

Download or read book Sports in America written by James A. Michener and published by Dial Press. This book was released on 2014-04-15 with total page 562 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Originally published in 1976, James A. Michener’s explosive, spectacular Sports in America is a prescient examination of the crisis in American sports that is still unfolding to this day. Pro basketball players are banned for narcotics use, while a Major League pitcher is arrested for smuggling drugs across the Mexican border. The NFL’s “injury report” grows longer every Sunday. Corruption and recruiting violations plague collegiate sports as the “winning is everything” mentality trickles down to the Little League level. With his lifelong enthusiasm for sports in evidence, the incomparable Michener tackles this subject thoroughly and leaves us amazed and appalled by what we’ve learned, yet still loving the games we grew up on. BONUS: This edition includes an excerpt from James A. Michener's Hawaii. Praise for Sports in America “A comprehensive, controversial examination of sports as a major force in American life.”—Los Angeles Times “Michener’s life was saved by sports twice. In return, he has issued a long, lovingly critical, prodigiously researched account of the passions and politics of America at organized play. Rich in anecdote, source material and his own shrewd commentary.”—The New York Times Book Review “Like just about everything James Michener has produced, Sports in America is a thoughtful, well-written document that’s thoroughly researched. . . . For anyone interested in how the ball bounces in the U.S. of A., the answers are all here.”—The Wall Street Journal “Encyclopedic . . . amusing and sometimes alarming.”—The Washington Post

It's Great to Suck at Something

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Publisher : Atria Books
ISBN 13 : 150119576X
Total Pages : 256 pages
Book Rating : 4.5/5 (11 download)

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Book Synopsis It's Great to Suck at Something by : Karen Rinaldi

Download or read book It's Great to Suck at Something written by Karen Rinaldi and published by Atria Books. This book was released on 2019-05-07 with total page 256 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal. What if the secret to resilience and joy is the one thing we’ve been taught to avoid? When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. As a sh*tty surfer and all-around-imperfect human Karen Rinaldi explains in this eye-opening book, we live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over play. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. But we’re all being had. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection. We judge others on stuff we can’t even begin to master, and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. Worse, we’re not improving on what really matters. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something reveals that the key to a richer, more fulfilling life is finding something to suck at. Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport she’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. She draws from sources as diverse as Anthony Bourdain and surfing luminary Jaimal Yogis, Thich Nhat Hanh, and Jean-Paul Sartre, among many others, and explains the marvelous things that happen to our mammalian brains when we try something new, all to discover what she’s learned firsthand: it is great to suck at something. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, (It’s Great to) Suck at Something is an invitation to embrace our shortcomings as the very best of who we are and to open ourselves up to adventure, where we may not find what we thought we were looking for, but something way more important.

Surfing Newport Beach

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Author :
Publisher : Arcadia Publishing
ISBN 13 : 1614239568
Total Pages : 174 pages
Book Rating : 4.6/5 (142 download)

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Book Synopsis Surfing Newport Beach by : Claudine Burnett

Download or read book Surfing Newport Beach written by Claudine Burnett and published by Arcadia Publishing. This book was released on 2013-07-16 with total page 174 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Corona del Mar was once California's premier surfing spot, holding the sport's first Pacific Coast competition in 1928. Attempts to tame Corona and to make the Newport Beach harbor mouth safe for watercraft drastically altered board riding, destroying the great "wave-making machine" of Corona and creating the surf giant of today known as the "Wedge." Read about Newport before World War II: experience the Great Rescue of 1925 by Duke Kahanamoku and others, the rum runners of Balboa and the evolution of Newport Bay. Pioneering surfers such as George Freeth, Tom Blake, the Vultee brothers and Pete Peterson helped make a name for the city in surf culture. Authors Claudine Burnett and her surfer husband, Paul, have delved deeply into the past, sharing stories that will give readers never-before-revealed facts not only about surfing but Newport Beach and Corona del Mar history as well.

Swell

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Publisher : Patagonia
ISBN 13 : 9781952338229
Total Pages : 0 pages
Book Rating : 4.3/5 (382 download)

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Book Synopsis Swell by : LIZ. CLARK

Download or read book Swell written by LIZ. CLARK and published by Patagonia. This book was released on 2024-05-14 with total page 0 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: