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A Study Of Ocean Wave Statistical Properties Using Nonlinear Directional Phase Resolved Ocean Wave Field Simulations
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Book Synopsis A Study of Ocean Wave Statistical Properties Using Nonlinear, Directional, Phase-resolved Ocean Wave-field Simulations by : Legena Albertha Henry
Download or read book A Study of Ocean Wave Statistical Properties Using Nonlinear, Directional, Phase-resolved Ocean Wave-field Simulations written by Legena Albertha Henry and published by . This book was released on 2009 with total page 334 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: In the present work, we study the statistics of wavefields obtained from non-linear phase-resolved simulations. The numerical model used to generate the waves models wave-wave interactions based on the fully non-linear Zakharov equations. We vary the simulated wavefield's input spectral properties: directional spreading function, Phillips parameter and peak shape parameter. We then investigate the relationships between a wavefield's input spectral properties and its output physical properties via statistical analysis. We investigate surface elevation distribution, wave definition methods in a nonlinear wavefield with a two-dimensional wavenumber, defined waves' distributions, and the occurrence and spacing of large wave events.
Book Synopsis A Study of Ocean Wave Statistical Properties Using Nonlinear, Directional, Phase-resolved Ocean Wave-field Simulations by :
Download or read book A Study of Ocean Wave Statistical Properties Using Nonlinear, Directional, Phase-resolved Ocean Wave-field Simulations written by and published by . This book was released on 2002 with total page pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This project was supported by the US Office of Naval Research and the Joint Program between MIT and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute.
Book Synopsis A Study of Ocean Wave Statistical Properties by : Legena Henry
Download or read book A Study of Ocean Wave Statistical Properties written by Legena Henry and published by . This book was released on 2011-11 with total page 304 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Study of Directional Ocean Wavefield Evolution and Rogue Wave Occurrence Using Large-scale Phase-resolved Nonlinear Simulations by : Wenting Xiao
Download or read book Study of Directional Ocean Wavefield Evolution and Rogue Wave Occurrence Using Large-scale Phase-resolved Nonlinear Simulations written by Wenting Xiao and published by . This book was released on 2013 with total page 267 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: It is challenging to obtain accurate predictions of ocean surface wavefield evolutions due to several complex dynamic processes involved, including nonlinear wave interaction, wave breaking and wind forcing, and also wave interactions with currents and bottom bathymetry. With fast computational algorithms for nonlinear phase-resolved wave simulations and modern computational capabilities, we now develop and apply a direct large-scale nonlinear phase-resolved wavefield simulation tool, which we call SNOW (Simulation of Nonlinear Ocean Wavefields), to study the evolution of directional ocean waves and occurrence of rogue waves (extremely large waves). Using SNOW, we obtain an ensemble of nonlinear deep-water wavefield simulations, initialized by JONSWAP spectrum with a broad range of spectral parameters, over large space-time scales. Spectral evolutions, nonlinear wave statistics and rogue wave occurrence are investigated based on the simulated wavefields. The SNOW results are compared to available wave basin experiments and predictions from linear theory and approximate nonlinear-Schr6dinger-equation (NLS) type models. SNOW predictions give an overall better comparison with wave-basin experiments than NLStype model predictions. For initially narrow-banded and narrow-directional-spreading wavefields, we find modulational instability develops over short time, resulting in considerable spectral broadening, strongly non-Gaussian statistics and probability of rogue wave occurrence an order of magnitude higher than linear theory prediction. For longer time, the wave spectrum in SNOW simulations reaches a non-Gaussian quasi-stationary state, and this is not predicted by NLS-type models, where a continuous spectral broadening is observed. When waves spread broadly in frequency and direction, the modulational-instability effect is reduced and the wave statistics and rogue wave probability are close to linear theory prediction. Number and area-based probabilities are introduced to measure the likelihood of rogue wave occurrence. To effectively predict rogue wave occurrence in directional seas, we propose a new modified Benjamin-Feir index (MBFI), which accounts for the effects of wave directionality. It is shown that the occurrence probabilities of rogue waves are well correlated with MBFI over a broad range of spectral parameters. Based on a large catalogue of rogue waves found from SNOW simulations, the geometric shapes of rogue waves are analyzed using proper orthogonal decomposition (POD). It is found that rogue wave profiles can generally be described by a small number of POD modes. SNOW simulations are also used to investigate the influence of finite depth on the evolution of nonlinear wavefields. As water depth decreases, the modulational instability decreases and finally diminishes. It is found that the occurrence probability of rogue waves and wave kurtosis decrease as water depth decreases. The wave statistics and rogue wave occurrence in bimodal wavefields are also studied. The influence of swell on the wave statistics of single-modal wind sea is not monotonic. The occurrence probability of rogue waves can either increase or decrease depending on the bimodal spectrum shape. We find the rogue wave probability and wave kurtosis are minimized when the propagation directions of swell and wind sea are orthogonal. By assimilating wave measurements from in-situ buoy and/or remote sensing into SNOW, we develop and demonstrate the capability of phase-resolved reconstruction and forecasting of wavefield evolution and rogue wave occurrence. Such capability could significantly enhance marine design and operation. This research paves the way for a new-generation wave forecasting model that is capable of providing heretofore unavailable large-scale phase-resolved information on the ocean wave evolution. Such capability is critically useful such as in the understanding of rogue wave dynamics and in the practical marine operations and safety.
Book Synopsis Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (In 2 Volumes) by : Chiang C Mei
Download or read book Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (In 2 Volumes) written by Chiang C Mei and published by World Scientific Publishing Company. This book was released on 2018-03-15 with total page 1240 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.
Download or read book Ocean Wave Dynamics written by Ian Young and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2020-03-20 with total page 396 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Book Synopsis Phase-resolved Reconstruction and Forecast of Nonlinear Irregular Wave Field Based on Direct Numerical Simulations by : Yusheng Qi (Ph. D.)
Download or read book Phase-resolved Reconstruction and Forecast of Nonlinear Irregular Wave Field Based on Direct Numerical Simulations written by Yusheng Qi (Ph. D.) and published by . This book was released on 2017 with total page 249 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The problem of phase-resolved reconstruction and forecast of ocean wave field based on measurements is of basic scientific interest and practical importance in ocean science and marine engineering. This capability aids and expands the use and interpretation of field and wave basin measurements, contributing to the study of fundamental wave mechanics. It also expands the operational envelope and improves survivability and efficiency of ships and marine facilities in severe seas. We develop theoretical and computational capabilities to solve this problem, which can be applied to both ocean wave field and wave basin experiments. Given limited wave measurement data, there exists specific space and time domain( s) (the "predictable zone") where the wave-field can be reconstructed and forecasted. In this thesis, using linearized wave theory and reasonable assumptions of the frequency and directional extent of the wave field, we obtain closed-form expressions for (linear) predictable zone PL in terms of set notation involving the individual measurement. We derive and illustrate PL obtained for ("probe") measurements at one or more fixed locations over time, for moving probes, for whole-area wave measurements, and combinations of these. We also consider the problem of optimal deployment of these measurements to maximize the volume of PL in space-time. For J probes, we show that this volume scales as J3 (in contrast to J when the predictable zones of individual measurements are simply summed). With the knowledge of the predictable zone, we develop and validate a high-order reconstruction (HOR) method for the phase-resolved reconstruction of nonlinear wave field given a set of wave measurements. HOR optimizes the amplitude and phase of L free-wave components of the nonlinear wave field, accounting for nonlinear wave interactions up to order M in the evolution to obtain a nonlinear wave field that minimizes the reconstruction error between reconstructed wave field and the given measurements. For a given reconstruction tolerance, L and M are provided in the HOR scheme itself. To demonstrate the validity and efficacy of HOR, we perform extensive tests of general two- and three-dimensional wave fields specified by theoretical Stokes waves, nonlinear simulations, and physical wave fields in tank experiments. The necessary L, for general broad banded wave fields, is shown to be relatively small and substantially less than the free and locked modes needed for the nonlinear evolution. We find that, even for relatively small wave steepness, the inclusion of high-order effects in HOR is important for prediction of wave kinematics not in the measurements. For all the cases we consider, HOR converges to the underlying wave field within a nonlinear spatial-temporal predictable zone PNL (dependent on the measurements and wave nonlinearity). PNL generally extends in time (and space) beyond the measurements, thus obtaining reliable forecast/predictions of the wave field. For linear waves, PNL=PL, verifying the predictable zone theory. With increasing wave nonlinearity, we show that PNL contains and is generally greater than PL. Thus PL provides a (conservative) estimate of PNL when the underlying wave field is not known. For nonlinear steep wave-field, wave breaking plays an important role in the evolution of the wave field. We develop a phenomenological wave breaking model that can be incorporated into the nonlinear evolution engine of HOR to predict breaking onset and simulate proper amount of energy dissipation. Thus HOR can properly reconstruct and forecast nonlinear wave field which may contain breaking events. The breaking model is developed in the spectra domain and based on analysis of simulated two-dimensional wave breaking caused by different wave-wave interaction mechanism, including modulation instability and wave focusing. The developed wave breaking model is calibrated, validated and verified by different wave breaking measurements and excellent agreement is obtained between simulated wave breaking results and measured ones. The wave breaking model can be further used to simulate the locations of breaking events, which is validated statistically by calculating the Phillips statistics. This thesis does not address the issue of wave-body interaction nor the control problem for scale models in the wave basin, but it provides necessary nonlinear whole-field data for intense CFD analysis of wave-body interaction at a level heretofore not possible. The presence of imposed current or wind is not considered at this stage but can be incorporated in the future using the same framework.
Book Synopsis Ocean Wave Modeling by : The SWAMP Group
Download or read book Ocean Wave Modeling written by The SWAMP Group and published by Springer Science & Business Media. This book was released on 2013-11-22 with total page 248 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Early in 1979, a group of wave researchers proposed a wave model inter comparison study to clarify the interrelations existing among the various wave models which have been developed in past years for real-time wave forecasting, wave statistics compilations, or hindcast case studies. The idea was immediately welcomed by the wave modeling community, and, finally, nine wave modeling groups from the United States, Japan, and Europe participated in the exercise. The principal results of this work are presented here jointly by the Sea Wave Modeling Project (swAMP) Group (the members of which are listed in Appendix A). Descriptions of the models used in the study are given in Part II of this volume. A more complete documentation of the entire set of numerical experiments is given in Part 2 of the Sea Wave Modeling Project (SWAMP group, 1982). The main purpose of the intercomparison study was to test our present understanding of the physics of . wind-generated surface waves from the viewpoint of wave modeling. Specifically, we wished to clarify the basic interdependence between understanding the physics of surface waves, repre senting the physics numerically, and predicting quantitatively the detailed space-time evolution of a two-dimensional surface wave spectrum for a given wind field. It was not our intent to carry out a model competition. In this sense there were no winners or losers: all models could claim specific strong points, and all displayed weaknesses in some areas.
Book Synopsis Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis by : Orville T. Magoon
Download or read book Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis written by Orville T. Magoon and published by . This book was released on 1994 with total page 1080 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Proceedings of the Second International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, held in New Orleans, Louisiana, July 25-28, 1993. Sponsored by the Waterways, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division of ASCE. This collection, which honors Professor Robert L. Wiegel, contains 79 papers that explore major advances in wave measurement and quantification of ocean and lake waves, including technical knowledge and applications on wave theory, characteristics, design and techniques. Papers are both national and international in scope and include practical examples and case histories. Topics include: wave transformation, data analysis and reliability, wave modeling, applications, long waves, extreme wave statistics, and other topics relating to wave research over the last two decades. This collection will serve as a primary reference to the latest information in the field of wave measurement and analysis for anyone working with coastal technology.
Book Synopsis Nonlinear Random Ocean Waves by : Alok K. Jha
Download or read book Nonlinear Random Ocean Waves written by Alok K. Jha and published by . This book was released on 1997 with total page 88 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Second-order nonlinear models have been increasingly used in recent years model nonlinear processes in offshore engineering. We develop convenient analytic formulae to predict the nonlinearities in waves and to predict the crest height distribution in a specified wave condition. We apply such models to study the properties of random ocean waves. These include measured waves both in wave tanks and in field. Statistics comparison between model and measurements include: moment comparisons, comparison of distributions of wave elevations, crest heights, wave heights, and conditional distributions of local wave parameters, for example, crest height given wave heights, wave periods given crest heights, among others. We find the second-order model predictions to agree quite closely with the field measurements, while the wave tank statistics seem to be underpredicted by the second-order model. Finally, we solve the inverse problem, in which we identify the underlying first-order wave components, which when run through the second-order wave predictor matches the measured wave histories time point by time point.
Book Synopsis Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction by : Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 1996-02-12 with total page 509 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields.It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view.The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail.The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text.An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Book Synopsis Numerical Modeling of Sea Waves by : Dmitry V. Chalikov
Download or read book Numerical Modeling of Sea Waves written by Dmitry V. Chalikov and published by Springer. This book was released on 2016-06-25 with total page 340 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: Presenting a novel approach to wave theory, this book applies mathematical modeling to the investigation of sea waves. It presents problems, solutions and methods, and explores issues such as statistical properties of sea waves, generation of turbulence, Benjamin-Feir instability and the development of wave fields under the action of wind. Special attention is paid to the processes of dynamic wind-wave interaction, the formation of freak waves, as well as the role that sea waves play in the dynamic ocean/atmosphere system. It presents theoretical results which are followed by a description of the algorithms used in the development of wave forecasting models, and provides illustrations to assist understanding of the various models presented. This book provides an invaluable resource to oceanographers, specialists in fluid dynamics and advanced students interested in investigation of the widely known but poorly investigated phenomenon of sea waves.
Book Synopsis Direct Phase-Resolved Simulation Of Large-Scale Nonlinear Ocean Wave-Field by :
Download or read book Direct Phase-Resolved Simulation Of Large-Scale Nonlinear Ocean Wave-Field written by and published by . This book was released on 2009 with total page 9 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: The objective of this research is to develop a new powerful capability, which is called SNOW (simulation of nonlinear ocean wave-field), for predicting the evolution of large-scale nonlinear wavefields using direct phase-resolved simulations. Unlike the phased-averaged approaches, SNOW models the key physical mechanisms such as nonlinear wave-wave, wave-current, wave-wind and wave-bottom interactions and wave breaking dissipation in a direct physics-based context. SNOW is now capable of simulating the nonlinear evolution of phase-resolved ocean wavefield in a domain of 100km x 100 km for a evolution time of O(hour).
Book Synopsis Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction (Third Edition) by : Stanislaw Ryszard Massel
Download or read book Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction (Third Edition) written by Stanislaw Ryszard Massel and published by World Scientific. This book was released on 2017-09-28 with total page 801 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
Book Synopsis Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports by :
Download or read book Scientific and Technical Aerospace Reports written by and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 1102 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
Book Synopsis Phase-Resolved Reconstruction and Forecast of Ocean Wavefields Using Scanning-Sensing Wave Measurements by :
Download or read book Phase-Resolved Reconstruction and Forecast of Ocean Wavefields Using Scanning-Sensing Wave Measurements written by and published by . This book was released on 2009 with total page 7 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: To develop and demonstrate an advanced capability of deterministic reconstruction and (short-time) forecasting of realistic ocean wavefield evolution, using scanning wave sensing data and efficient phase-resolved nonlinear wave simulations.
Download or read book STAR written by and published by . This book was released on 1973 with total page 890 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt:
